suggestions on surge protector

[sarahm]

Hello, I am looking at Amazon for a good electrical system protector to add on my power cord. Would appreciate some suggestions for a good unit. thanks

[JRTJH]

First, answers to two questions needed.

1. 30 amp or 50 amp trailer electrical system?
2. Internal or external (add on) EMS preferred?

[mhbell]

Hello, I am looking at Amazon for a good electrical system protector to add on my power cord. Would appreciate some suggestions for a good unit. thanks

I installed a 30 amp EMS in my Cougar 5th wheel. See link below for how I did it and why.
Mel

https://rvbloggers.wordpress.com/2018/07/20/mod-to-protect-the-electronic-in-my-5th-wheel/ or CLICK HERE (https://rvbloggers.wordpress.com/2018/07/20/mod-to-protect-the-electronic-in-my-5th-wheel/)

[travelin texans]

Regardless whether 30 or 50 amp, hardwired or portable, Progressive Industries surge protector/ems would be/was/is my 1st choice, pricey but worth every penny!
I've had the 50 amp portable for 10+ years, fried one at a park which PI replaced free & has saved my rv on several occasions. If you plan to keep your rv forever the hardwired would be a good choice, if planning to upgrade at any time the portable would probably be a better option, only have to buy it once. I'm on my 3rd 5er using the same portable.

[Travelingcircus]

I also recommend the portable Progressive Industries EMS, http://www.progressiveindustries.net/ems-pt-x

[FlyingAroundRV]

I added a 30 amp wired-in Progressive industries surge protector after smoking my power converter by plugging the TT into a friend's home made extension cord. In hindsight, I think the cord was mis-wired as the aircon kind of groaned and then shut down a couple of times while trying to power the TT up.

I had intended to install the surge protector before this event, but never got around to it. It would have saved my converter.

The big plus of the PI surge protector (as I see it) is that is has a readout which shows, the input voltage, how many amps are being drawn, and shows an error code if there is a problem. I prefer this quantiative information over status lights on most other surge protectors. Having the amp draw readout helped me diagnose problems with my fridge. It also acts as a reminder when the aircon is running, the hot water is heating up and the fridge is trying to cool on electric, not to try to use the microwave or we'll likely pop the breaker at the pedestal. When the above three items are running, we are drawing about 26 amps which is very close to the maximum (30A system).

Also, I'm not very keen on a cord solution that requires an extra step during setup/pack-up and something else that has to be secured against theft.
From go to whoa, my wife and I can setup our TT in about 10 minutes and we resist adding extra steps that complicate the process and extend the time. This is important when it's 100+ degrees and 90+ % humidity outside!

[stevejax99]

Hello, I am looking at Amazon for a good electrical system protector to add on my power cord. Would appreciate some suggestions for a good unit. thanks
Since you mentioned to add to your power cord, I'm guessing you mean portable. So, I bought the below from Amazon for my recently bought TT. Power is 30 Amps. There is a 50 Amp model. Also, I bought a chain and lock to secure to campsite power station. Works great.. Just plug it in and let it run through its start-up cycle. Then plug in your camper.

Progressive Industries Portable RV Surge Protector Portable EMS-PT30X RV Surge Protector

[sarahm]

Sorry, I forgot to add. 50 amp portable.

[JRTJH]

I'd suggest the Progressive portable. http://www.progressiveindustries.net/ems-pt-x Be cautious about buying a "surge protector" that doesn't monitor anything but lightening strikes.... You need an electrical systems monitor, not a surge protector. Plan about $250-300 depending on where you buy.

[mcomeaux]

I would suggest a portable unit only because if it goes sideways its much easier to swap out instead of a hardwired unit. I was in Apache Junction last winter and I was using a 30 amp progressive ind unit and I believe the adapter cord from 50-30amp is what was at fault not sure but it got toasted. I went to a RV supply and bought another adapter and a inexpensive surge protector and everything was fine. Progressive fedex me a new unit no questions in 2 days and I went on my way happy....Highly recommend period...

[labman]

What would be the reason I would need a 50amp instead of a 30amp?

[travelin texans]

What would be the reason I would need a 50amp instead of a 30amp?

If your rv is 50 amp you need a 50 amp, 30 amp a 30!
With the proper dogbone adapters you can use the 50 on the 30 & the 30 on the 50 if necessary.
As for the portable adding another step in setting up, mine is plugged into the rv cord & stays there, so it's still just plug into pedestal & into the rv, no extra steps. As for theft, as stated I've had mine for 10+ years, never locked down & has never walked away.

[sourdough]

Hello, I am looking at Amazon for a good electrical system protector to add on my power cord. Would appreciate some suggestions for a good unit. thanks

You may want to look at the Surge Guard EMS portable protection model 34950? I believe. I have had mine almost 5 years and it provides all the info you need on the readout plus it is, and has been, completely trouble free. Mine did not have a lifetime warranty but I was just reading that as of Nov. 2017 all of their higher line units had a lifetime warranty. That was where Progressive units had the upper hand. I've not heard of anyone having trouble with the lifetime Progressive warranty....I've not heard of anyone using the Surge Guard lifetime warranty so...…? If the Progressive has the same kind of readout as the Surge Guard I will probably go with them the next time if this one ever fails.

[Old Mustanger]

I've been using Surge Guard portables for the nine years we have been RVing. 30A model for the TT's and got a 50A when we got the 1st 5vr, no problems with either one and was able to convince a SP maintenance man that he had a problem last spring, he tried to say the problem was mine until I showed him the readout on the Surge Guard. Not familiar with the PI units but it seems like you can't go wrong with either one as long as you get the top model.

[Snoking]

I installed HareWired PI units with remotes in both of our trailers. On 50 amp service it is very important to have one that senses loss of neutral and shuts down instantly. Loss of neutral without protection will fry all your AC items, TVs, Microwave, converter, frig etc etc, as it puts 240 V across these items. Chris

[wiredgeorge]

The question as to why some trailers use 50A and some 30A; trailers that have two A/C units or are wired for the same have 50A cords and power converters with the appropriate circuit breakeres. 30A units generally have only one A/C and that A/C unit will be on its own 20A circuit. The power converter for a 30A has a lower power rating and won't have two 20A A/C circuits but just the one.

[5J's]

I'm not trying to Hijack this thread but, funny this topic comes up. I'm currently looking at the PI EMS-HW50C and the Surge Guard 40240. So far I've decided on the Surge Guard simply because the way the display readout is text rather than error codes and the way the display mounts. Does anyone have any advice one way or the other? Also if anyone has any pics of the mounted display and and interface connections that would be great.

[Snoking]

Here is how I mounted the PI remote display in the new Laredo, first picture and the 5th wheel second picture. Chris

[SummitPond]

Here's my installation. It's the Progressive Industries 30A internal model with remote readout (EMS-HW30C). I put it where the junction box was connecting the external cable to the internal wiring. It saved my bacon at least once when a campground had a hot and neutral swapped.

[travelin texans]

I'm not trying to Hijack this thread but, funny this topic comes up. I'm currently looking at the PI EMS-HW50C and the Surge Guard 40240. So far I've decided on the Surge Guard simply because the way the display readout is text rather than error codes and the way the display mounts. Does anyone have any advice one way or the other? Also if anyone has any pics of the mounted display and and interface connections that would be great.

The EMS will monitor every electrical situation that could happen, high/low voltage to surges, the Surge Guard is exactly that a surge protector.
The Surge Guard will be cheaper than the EMS, but having either one is definitely recommended.

[Snoking]

The EMS will monitor every electrical situation that could happen, high/low voltage to surges, the Surge Guard is exactly that a surge protector.
The Surge Guard will be cheaper than the EMS, but having either one is definitely recommended.

I like my PI units, however here are details on the Surge Guard.

Surge Guard* 50A – Model 40240
Full Protection Hardwire
Rated 120/240V, 50A, 3350 Joules
Total Electrical Protection from Faulty Park Power

Multi-mode surge suppression
Automatic reset on power restoration
128 second reset delay protects A/C compressor
Remote power monitor LCD display (English)
Joystick for easy screen navigation
Displays voltage and amp draw (RMS)


Protects against:

Power surges
Open ground
Open neutral
Low (<102V) and high (>132V) voltage
Reverse polarity
Miswired pedestal
High and low frequency

[sourdough]

I'm not trying to Hijack this thread but, funny this topic comes up. I'm currently looking at the PI EMS-HW50C and the Surge Guard 40240. So far I've decided on the Surge Guard simply because the way the display readout is text rather than error codes and the way the display mounts. Does anyone have any advice one way or the other? Also if anyone has any pics of the mounted display and and interface connections that would be great.

The units you are comparing are virtually the same thing:
https://www.amazon.com/Progressive-Industries-Hardwired-Electrical-Protection/dp/B003AN1UA8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1536682478&sr=8-2&keywords=progressive+industries+hw50c

http://www.progressiveindustries.net/ems-hw50c


Surge Guard: https://www.amazon.com/Technology-Research-40240-Surge-Guard/dp/B00A0RAUM6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1536681949&sr=8-1&keywords=surge+guard+40240#HLCXComparisonWidget_fe ature_div

https://rvpower.southwire.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/SW-SurgeGuard-brochure-v18.pdf

Looks like the PI may be cheaper on Amazon. Now that they both have lifetime warranties it's just about a toss up. I really like the display and readout on my 50A portable. Don't get just a surge protector; you want a unit that does all of the things these units do to actually protect yourself and your trailer.

[Old Mustanger]

The EMS will monitor every electrical situation that could happen, high/low voltage to surges, the Surge Guard is exactly that a surge protector.
The Surge Guard will be cheaper than the EMS, but having either one is definitely recommended.

A fine example of why everything you read on the internet may not be true :)

[travelin texans]

A fine example of why everything you read on the internet may not be true :)

I'm sorry to give you incorrect internet info! But we can't ALL be perfect!!!
When I purchased mine the Surge Guard was exactly what I said, for surge ONLY!
In the future if you need internet information, contact. Old Mustanger!

[Old Mustanger]

I'm sorry to give you incorrect internet info! But we can't ALL be perfect!!!
When I purchased mine the Surge Guard was exactly what I said, for surge ONLY!
In the future if you need internet information, contact. Old Mustanger!

Just messing with you a little, not trying to start one of those post wars we see now and then on here. No offense meant. :)

Surge Guard does make a cheaper unit that provides surge protection only but the top of the line units provide total protection. :popcorn:

[sourdough]

I'm sorry to give you incorrect internet info! But we can't ALL be perfect!!!
When I purchased mine the Surge Guard was exactly what I said, for surge ONLY!
In the future if you need internet information, contact. Old Mustanger!


I think the above statement is why some new folks are confused when trying to buy a "surge protector". Unless they have some knowledge of what it is they're looking for, or experience with them, a surge protector is just that so they look for a "surge protector" at the cheapest price. In instances like this I think is where a forum such as this can not only help educate folks but also hopefully save them some money and give some peace of mind.

These comments are not directed at travelin Texan. I highlighted the comment because it illustrates the differences between a "surge guard" and the EMS systems. Travelin Texan made an honest mistake....and we've all been there - we all are just trying to share knowledge and help each other.

[XTeacher]

I'd suggest the Progressive portable. http://www.progressiveindustries.net/ems-pt-x Be cautious about buying a "surge protector" that doesn't monitor anything but lightening strikes.... You need an electrical systems monitor, not a surge protector. Plan about $250-300 depending on where you buy.

I completely agree with this recommendation; we have the 30 amp model. It will reset itself after shutting down, when it detects safe levels again. Some protectors will shut down when there's a problem, but they don't reset themselves. I think this one is worth every penny!

If you get this one, don't panic when your camper doesn't immediately power up once you power it on. It runs a diagnostic test before allowing power to the camper - takes just a few minutes. Also, be sure to follow the directions regarding the order of hooking it up, printed on the protector.

[sarahm]

what is the difference between Progressive EMS-PT50C, EMS-PT50X, and Camco 55306 50 AMP.

[Snoking]

The EMS-PT50C is no longer listed on the PI web page. It is more like the hard wired version in a portable package. the PT50X seems to be a replacement with a cover for the outlet. The portable units are not UL certified.

Chris

http://docs.wixstatic.com/ugd/439d5a_ff41dbb116aa40369f411382571d75b9.pdf

[Laredo Tugger]

I just took delivery of the Hughes Autoformer RV 220-50-SP for my surge protection. Yes the unit was pricey,but for the investment I have in my 5er it is worth it (to me anyway).
This unit analyzes the shore power outlet before connecting and adds a boost of voltage when demand is at peak in the CG,keeping a constant power flow to all appliance motors. And provides surge protection as well.
I'm getting ready for a month log trip and have not used this system yet so I can not really say what I like or dislike about it. For this trip I will not have the unit installed (hardwired) inside the camper,but will have it locked to the shore power pole.
Taking applications for an armed security guard to make sure it does not grow legs. ;)
RMc

[5J's]

Thanks for the help guys.

[Snoking]

I just took delivery of the Hughes Autoformer RV 220-50-SP for my surge protection. Yes the unit was pricey,but for the investment I have in my 5er it is worth it (to me anyway).
This unit analyzes the shore power outlet before connecting and adds a boost of voltage when demand is at peak in the CG,keeping a constant power flow to all appliance motors. And provides surge protection as well.
I'm getting ready for a month log trip and have not used this system yet so I can not really say what I like or dislike about it. For this trip I will not have the unit installed (hardwired) inside the camper,but will have it locked to the shore power pole.
Taking applications for an armed security guard to make sure it does not grow legs. ;)
RMc

Some parks ban the use of them. As to keep the voltage up, they draw more amps from the source. NO free lunch! Chris

[Laredo Tugger]

"Some parks ban the use of them. As to keep the voltage up, they draw more amps from the source. NO free lunch! Chris"

What??
Guess I'll just fire up the noisy generator and let them decide.
RMc

[Laredo Tugger]

If the unit makes my trailer more power efficient,what's the problem?

Also if it is mounted inside the trailer (which I can do) how would they know?

Not trying to be a power hog. If the unit is causing problems in the CG I do not have to use it.

RMc

[Gegrad]

I have the Progressive portable unit that analyzes the circuit for proper polarity and voltage when you plug it in, letting you know via lights the circuit has the correct voltage before you plug your trailer in. I have been very happy with mine (from Amazon; I don't have the link handy).

[TheGriz]

Another vote for Progressive Industries...internal or external...30A or 50A. They make a high quality product, and stand behind it with a lifetime warranty. I have the 50A internal with remote readout...very satisfied.

Shop around...easily a $100 price variance among all the vendors. I got mine from Tweety's RV...currently $299.80 shipped to your door https://tweetys.com/electrical-management-system-hardwire-50.aspx

Mike

[travelin texans]

Taking applications for an armed security guard to make sure it does not grow legs. ;)
RMc
From the ones I've looked at they'll have to grow VERY stout legs & they sure as hell won't be running, those things are VERY heavy.

[DocP]

From the ones I've looked at they'll have to grow VERY stout legs & they sure as hell won't be running, those things are VERY heavy.

I have the Hughes Autoformer RV220-50-SP as well. You're right - it is heavy (35 pounds). I have a coated heavy-duty cable that goes through the handle on the unit and around the camper axle with a padlock. I also have a plastic storage container to store it when not in use, and then put the container over the unit to protect it from the elements. Works out well, and worth every penny - in my opinion. Peace of mind comes at a price.

[Laredo Tugger]

My Autoformer came with a small cable lock. I will back that up with a chain and fashion some type of cover. Yes the weight of the thing would make it difficult to jog off with,but they only need to carry it to their vehicle and then be gone, I guess. There I go thinking like a criminal again but that is what you have to do to outsmart them.
As for being forbid in some CGs, so far my research shows no major issues. Several folks state they have been using them for years with no problems. The technical explanations seem to point out that the unit does not use any extra power than the pole has to offer. It is designed that way. Parks that do not allow them are probably covering up the fact they have a weak grid and have something else they can blame it on.
RMc

[sarahm]

thanks for your help guys.

[wiredgeorge]

Everyone leans toward a couple of brands of these gizmos. Has anyone used a Camco?
https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Camco/CAM55301.html


The Camco unit seems to do much the same thing as the brands mentioned here and costs quite a bit less.

[Snoking]

Sometimes buying the cheaper item cost more over the long run. PI has a documented history of being a great product and quickly providing help and replacement if needed. Chris

[wiredgeorge]

PI was just sold to another company and they are now manufacturing in Mexico from what I heard. I was hoping to hear from someone who actually had used one of the Camco units. Thanks

[flybouy]

Everyone leans toward a couple of brands of these gizmos. Has anyone used a Camco?
https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Camco/CAM55301.html


The Camco unit seems to do much the same thing as the brands mentioned here and costs quite a bit less.

Biggest difference I see at first blush is the statement from the Q$A section "spoke to my contact at Camco and he informed me that the Camco RV Power Defender Voltage Analyzer # CAM55310 that you referenced offers 1,050 joules of surge protection but it's primary function is to determine if a power outlet/pedestal is wired correctly. " Low number on joules. And Amazon has it at $181 if you have Prime. https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Protector-Integrated-Protection-55301/dp/B00JFWKM2K?hvadid=174273698133&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9052211&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t2&hvqmt=b&hvrand=6911939944961070146&hvtargid=kwd-153194685905&keywords=camco+power+defender&qid=1536939937&sr=8-1&tag=googhydr-20&ref=sr_1_1

[JRTJH]

Although currently not in stock, there is a company that sells Progressive Industries components for a very reasonable price. As an example, they currently have the "external PI 30 amp EMS" on sale for $99. As I said, they are out of stock, but are honoring the sale price when they get more stock. The PI EMS-PT30C typically sells for $250 -$300, so buying it for $99 is a "steal".... http://www.ecspremier.com/30-Amp-Portable-Electrical.html

They also have the 30 amp hardwired EMS on sale for $99. It is NOT the model with the remote monitor. This model has the monitor panel built into the actual device. http://www.ecspremier.com/30-Amp-Hardwired-Electrical-Protection-System-EMS-LCHW30_p_47.html

Seems to me (YMMV) buying a CAMCO look-alike for more than the original can be found doesn't make a lot of "budget sense".....

DISCLAIMER: I have no interest in this company, but I have purchased items from them online. I have no complaints with their service or products.

[Snoking]

PI was just sold to another company and they are now manufacturing in Mexico from what I heard. I was hoping to hear from someone who actually had used one of the Camco units. Thanks

http://www.park-power.com/en/news/progressive-announcement

Above is info on who purchased PI. I do not see the new the owners(Marinco) as a problem, they are a leader in the marine and RV power systems.

http://www.marinco.com/en

FWIW my two or three Taco RAMs have been good rigs.

I would bet the Camco unit is not made in America, think china.

Chris

[travelin texans]

I have no experience with the Camco surge protector, I have the PI & it has saved us more than once!
When I hear "Camco" all that comes to mind is cheaper rv stuff sold a Wal-Mart, which I've bought plenty of.
If you buy it, post it on here & then we can say "yea, so & so has one" the next time someone mentions it.

[wiredgeorge]

I was just asking if anyone had used a Camco. I know where Camco stuff is likely made and what the quality implication is. I have owned and now own quite a few Camco products... they are like a bowl of chocolates, so to speak hence my asking for a first hand. I put myself on the ECS Premier waiting list to see if they get back on the PI unit.

PI units are now made in Mexico. They used to be made in the States. They have also reduced customer service support hours. Does this mean that the company or product is not at the same standard? Dunno but when a company takes that direction, it generally is cause for concern to some extent.

I did read the Amazon reviews and the PI unit is more highly rated than a Camco as folks mentioned moisture issues (they are "water resistant" and not water proof) and DOAs or death shortly after purchase. Kind of take Amazon reviews with a grain of salt as a much higher percentage of irritated consumers post these things as opposed to folks who find no issues.

[flybouy]

:ermm:Disclaimer - I'm not putting anyone down, just my feeble attempt at joviality.

I already have a PI ems, but if I was considering the Camco unit I'd buy a can of Black Krylon and paint it. That Camco yellow just screams "Here I am! Come take me!"

[wiredgeorge]

:ermm:Disclaimer - I'm not putting anyone down, just my feeble attempt at joviality.

I already have a PI ems, but if I was considering the Camco unit I'd buy a can of Black Krylon and paint it. That Camco yellow just screams "Here I am! Come take me!"

Hope you are not referring to me. I took all the comments in this thread and mull them over. I do appreciate when folks who actually own something I am asking about take the time and give a first hand review; good or bad. Problem is, if anyone actually has purchased a Camco ems-type gizmo, they would probably be a bit shy about admitting it. And as far as Joules go, what the heck is that? I know what jewels are; my wife loves them! :lol:

[wiredgeorge]

Oh, and I called ECS Premier to find out how long the back log was expect. Talked with Jennifer and she told me they were discontinued and their store wouldn't be stocking them in the future. Back to the drawing board!

[wiredgeorge]

Last dumb question. What is the difference between the EMS-PT30C and the EMS-PT30X? One has a cover over the outlet... is that it?

[Snoking]

Hope you are not referring to me. I took all the comments in this thread and mull them over. I do appreciate when folks who actually own something I am asking about take the time and give a first hand review; good or bad. Problem is, if anyone actually has purchased a Camco ems-type gizmo, they would probably be a bit shy about admitting it. And as far as Joules go, what the heck is that? I know what jewels are; my wife loves them! :lol:

"Energy absorption/dissipation - This rating, given in joules, tells you how much energy the surge protector can absorb before it fails. A higher number indicates greater protection."

[AbHDToyHauler]

I bought the Progressive internal 50 amp for our trailer and mounted the remote beside the breaker panel. Works fantastic. Has found some problems I wouldn't have notice immediately but could have been deadly. A friend loaned us his large heavy duty power cord at one park. PI unit didn't like it. Said "No Ground" I checked cord , sure enough ground wire was broken. Only thing I think I would have done different is mount the remote on other side of wall in kitchen as I am always watching what amps we are pulling when we turn things on and off. Would save me a trip to the garage to check it. LOL By the way we are still kind of newbies and bought this unit on recommendations from this site. Works great. Good advice. Thanks

[flybouy]

Hope you are not referring to me. I took all the comments in this thread and mull them over. I do appreciate when folks who actually own something I am asking about take the time and give a first hand review; good or bad. Problem is, if anyone actually has purchased a Camco ems-type gizmo, they would probably be a bit shy about admitting it. And as far as Joules go, what the heck is that? I know what jewels are; my wife loves them! :lol:

Not all referring to you, and X2 on the jewels. My DW has a Mr. T starter set on her left hand as well!:lol:

[wiredgeorge]

Not all referring to you, and X2 on the jewels. My DW has a Mr. T starter set on her left hand as well!:lol:

You best buy your honey a big stone if she lets you buy a diesel truck! bwhahahaha

[flybouy]

You best buy your honey a big stone if she lets you buy a diesel truck! bwhahahaha

She has many. For years I would by here some baubles for our wedding anniversary and I would by a new gun. :DHer fingers and the gun cabinets got full so we started going on cruises instead.

[KimNTerry]

We have the camco surge protector. We only use it a 1 or 2 times a year as we prefer boondocking and dry camping to RV parks. The 30 amp PI hard wired model has been on the wishlist for years. But it's after solar and a lot of other things.

[bobbecky]

We had a PI surge arrestor for several years until a voltage problem occurred from the utility, which caused both of our cable boxes to fail, but there was no surge for the device to protect from. After buying two new cable boxes, the next purchase was the 50 amp hard wired PI EMS which has functioned numerous time due to voltage issues, either from the park pedestal or one time due to a broken ground prong on our shore cable. I would think the PI EMS would take priority over solar, so you don't have electrical damage to your rig before solar is installed.

[sconner]

I also have a Progressive Industries 30amp. I recommend the hard wired with the remote that shows power usage. It’s really nice to know what takes how much power so you don’t blow things. I’ve had mine for about 4years now with no issues. Their portable version is also a quality unit.

[Moneyslinger]

The big plus of the PI surge protector (as I see it) is that is has a readout which shows, the input voltage, how many amps are being drawn, and shows an error code if there is a problem. I prefer this quantiative information over status lights on most other surge protectors. Having the amp draw readout helped me diagnose problems with my fridge. It also acts as a reminder when the aircon is running, the hot water is heating up and the fridge is trying to cool on electric, not to try to use the microwave or we'll likely pop the breaker at the pedestal. When the above three items are running, we are drawing about 26 amps which is very close to the maximum (30A system).

Also, I'm not very keen on a cord solution that requires an extra step during setup/pack-up and something else that has to be secured against theft.
From go to whoa, my wife and I can setup our TT in about 10 minutes and we resist adding extra steps that complicate the process and extend the time. This is important when it's 100+ degrees and 90+ % humidity outside!

You just sold me on the permanent option. A bit more work – ONE TIME – to put in place, accurate run-time info, and never have to set up again or worry about rain or theft...and it's cheaper.

How to: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6CSg2ryqE7U

[SummitPond]

PI was just sold to another company and they are now manufacturing in Mexico from what I heard. I was hoping to hear from someone who actually had used one of the Camco units. Thanks

FYI, I looked at the link provided by Snoking in post 46 and then at the on-line catalog link (http://www.delzer.com/powerproducts/parkpowerfullline/39/#zoom=z) at the bottom of the page. It still says "Made in USA". So at least for the moment, it is still made here.

[AbHDToyHauler]

A PS to my previous post. Yes it was a bit more work the first time but mine fit right behind and below the existing fuse panel so was very convenient to install and if I should ever desire to remove it a put in a diff RV is easy to remove and put things back to original if desired.

[SummitPond]

"Energy absorption/dissipation - This rating, given in joules, tells you how much energy the surge protector can absorb before it fails. A higher number indicates greater protection."

A joule is a unit of measure for energy in the metric (SI) system. It was named after a Scottish brewer who did the groundbreaking work on the equivalence between mechanical work and heat. His work eventually led to the law of conservation of energy.

A joule is approximately the amount of work done when lifting a quarter pound hamburger a distance of one yard (more exactly, a one newton object raised one meter). There are 1.6 million joules in 1 kilowatt-hour of electric energy.

A watt is one joule transferred per second; a watt is the rate of doing work (or transferring energy).

So, as Snoking said, the greater the amount of joules your device can handle, the larger the transient that can be "absorbed" by the protective device without harming the electronics plugged into the system.

[flybouy]

A joule is a unit of measure for energy in the metric (SI) system. It was named after a Scottish brewer who did the groundbreaking work on the equivalence between mechanical work and heat. His work eventually led to the law of conservation of energy.

A joule is approximately the amount of work done when lifting a quarter pound hamburger a distance of one yard (more exactly, a one newton object raised one meter). There are 1.6 million joules in 1 kilowatt-hour of electric energy.

A watt is one joule transferred per second; a watt is the rate of doing work (or transferring energy).

So, as Snoking said, the greater the amount of joules your device can handle, the larger the transient that can be "absorbed" by the protective device without harming the electronics plugged into the system.
Being a Scottish brewer, are you sure it wasn't lifting one pint of Guinness?:lol:

[travelin texans]

A joule is a unit of measure for energy in the metric (SI) system. It was named after a Scottish brewer who did the groundbreaking work on the equivalence between mechanical work and heat. His work eventually led to the law of conservation of energy.

A joule is approximately the amount of work done when lifting a quarter pound hamburger a distance of one yard (more exactly, a one newton object raised one meter). There are 1.6 million joules in 1 kilowatt-hour of electric energy.

A watt is one joule transferred per second; a watt is the rate of doing work (or transferring energy).

So, as Snoking said, the greater the amount of joules your device can handle, the larger the transient that can be "absorbed" by the protective device without harming the electronics plugged into the system.

And as Paul Harvey said, "now you know the rest of the story!".

[JRTJH]

"A joule is approximately the amount of work done when lifting a quarter pound hamburger a distance of one yard"
http://www.sherv.net/cm/emoticons/confused/confused-face-smiley-emoticon.gif (http://www.sherv.net/)
Also known as the Burger King principle.... Or was it the "with cheese concept"???

I forget so much important stuff <sigh> http://www.sherv.net/cm/emoticons/confused/confused-smiley-emoticon-1.gif (http://www.sherv.net/)

[DucBill]

My 50amp PI hard wired unit has saved me several times in the 7yrs of ownership on several rigs, once was at Pala RV in No San Diego which had just opened and had 1st full capacity weekend with 100 deg f ambient the PI alarmed and disconnected from shorepower. I checked pedestal with Fluke MM and found 103VAC which was what the EMS was showing went to neighbor who had big $$ DP asked if he was effected and he had no protection, checked his pedestal same condition notified Pala who sent maintenace by and verified low voltage condition. We ended up staying but ran our generator during peak load but I sure heard alot of ACs on neighbouring RVs laboring under low voltage. It turned out SDG&E (utility) had underestimated the load profile on design and needed to replace pad mounted transformers to correct at alater time. I wonder how many of the 100 other RVrs without EMS had a/c or appliance premature failures as a result and never knew why. Utilities are required to meet IEEE electrical requirements and are responsible for damages to customer equipment when not meeting them but you have to be aware of the problem and document to file a succesful claim. Happy Camping and good luck with your choice of protection.

[villui]

send pic of what your surge chain security method looks like. [email protected]

[mcomeaux]

As I mentioned in earlier post I use the progressive protector portable unit. I had one toast on me in Arizona last winter and it was a quick change out with another brand until they shipped me a new unit. Easy to deal with and required not sending old one in. Just took a couple of pictures is all it took. Great people to work with...

[Snoking]

send pic of what your surge chain security method looks like. [email protected]

Mine is the center of the trailer secure by two 6/3 with ground cables, and a RJ-11 phone cable. Chris

[5J's]

Here is how I mounted the PI remote display in the new Laredo, first picture and the 5th wheel second picture. ChrisSnorking, How did you run the RJ11 from the display to the surge protector? I thought all the existing wiring would be in the underbelly but no such luck.

[Snoking]

Snorking, How did you run the RJ11 from the display to the surge protector? I thought all the existing wiring would be in the underbelly but no such luck.

In both of our trailers the PI unit is below the control panel. So all I had to do was shake the phone cable down the wall chase with the other cables. Chris

[5J's]

In both of our trailers the PI unit is below the control panel. So all I had to do was shake the phone cable down the wall chase with the other cables. ChrisWish mine was that easy. I ended up going through the floor with the #6 cable. Across the underbelly, up between my fresh water tank and gray tank, up through the floor under the tub, through the wall with the shower plumbing and up to the control panel. Thanks for the response.

[JRTJH]

Oh, and I called ECS Premier to find out how long the back log was expect. Talked with Jennifer and she told me they were discontinued and their store wouldn't be stocking them in the future. Back to the drawing board!

If you haven't made a EMS purchase yet, ECS Premier has the EMS-LCHW30 in stock again, still listed at $329.99, on sale for $299.99 and on clearance for $99.99.

Apparently Jennifer wasn't completely informed ??? Anyway, if you're still looking, ECS Premier has them for less than half the price of any other dealer that I've found.

[fatcatzzz]

If you haven't made a EMS purchase yet, ECS Premier has the EMS-LCHW30 in stock again, still listed at $329.99, on sale for $299.99 and on clearance for $99.99.

Apparently Jennifer wasn't completely informed ??? Anyway, if you're still looking, ECS Premier has them for less than half the price of any other dealer that I've found.

218.99 at Tweetys.com. Free shipping.

[JRTJH]

218.99 at Tweetys.com. Free shipping.

$99.99 at ECS Premier with $8 shipping.... That's a savings of $111 at ECS (if you're in the market for a 30 amp system.

[KSH]

Do you happen to have the Link?

[JRTJH]

Do you happen to have the Link?

http://www.ecspremier.com/30-Amp-Hardwired-Electrical-Protection-System-EMS-LCHW30_p_47.html

[KSH]

Any sales on the one with the remote display? Am I incorrect in my assessment that this model doesn't have it? How big of a deal is that? I guess it all depends on where i mount it correct?

[JRTJH]

That is correct. I have the "no remote display" model and mounted it under the drawers in the galley. I cut a 2"x3" hole in the panel in front of the EMS, installed a wooden switch cover and lexan sheet over the area so I can look into the "window" to see the display. For us, the trailer control panel is at the head of the stairs, about 20' away from where the shore power enters the trailer, so running the remote display wiring was not something I wanted to do and I didn't want "two places to check stuff" so I didn't want to spend the extra money for the "remote display model" and install the remote "in the galley. For us, it works, for others, it may not.

Here's a couple of photos of our EMS window to the display.

[sandy43]

I have PROGRESSIVE INDUSTRIES EMS-PT50X Portable RV Surge Protector (50 A) and it works ok, hopefully no problems with parks power. Haven't really used it yet.