Power converter smoked

[Akegb3]

This weekends trip was cut short due to the AC/DC converter smoking when on generator power. Looks like the fan stopped working at some point. Waiting on call back from service to have it fixed. Anyone else have this happen on a brand new Passport?

Disappointed!
Ed

[bobbecky]

What kind of generator was being used and what voltage was being supplied to the trailer?

[{tpc}]

I've not actually tried to hook mine up to a generator before, but I wonder if the incident isn't really related to the generator at all?

From what I can tell of mine, when there is a sufficient enough DC load the converter kicks on to charge the battery. This turns the fan on for cooling the board. So while it needs AC to run the converter and do that, it shouldn't have caused the failure. Though I would guess if it was improperly wired or something maybe? Or maybe if the AC signal wasn't "clean"?

That said, I wouldn't be surprised of failure. While it seems most WFCO converters are distributed out of Elkhart, I believe they originate from china. WFCO stands for World Friendly Company, iirc. Assuming you have a WFCO converter which I think a lot of us do.

I've actually had my buddies converter apart while we were troubleshooting an issue. Turns out the converter was ok, but I wasn't really impressed with how it was made.

[flybouy]

This weekends trip was cut short due to the AC/DC converter smoking when on generator power. Looks like the fan stopped working at some point. Waiting on call back from service to have it fixed. Anyone else have this happen on a brand new Passport?

Disappointed!
Ed

I would definitely check out the genny before hooking up to a new converter. I would check output volts under load as well as frequency. If you don't have a multimeter or know how to use one get someone that does check it.

[kraftee]

We were recently at a very nice KOA on Lake Ontario that had beautiful lakeside sites. Unfortunately, the non-pull-though sites were set up for motorhomes with the power and water at the entrance to the site. I could not reach the power pole with the 50 amp cord on our new Outback 324CG, so the campground was nice enough to loan us a 50-amp extension. Unfortunately, the cord apparently had a short which caused the power to blink on and off rapidly.

The acrid smell of burning electrical components and smoke coming from the area under the galley where the converter is mounted told the story. Ended up having to buy my own extra cord AND pony up for a small battery charger so that we could camp for the next 4 days!

I just replaced the WFCO 75-amp converter with a new Progressive Dynamics 70-amp converter with Smart Wizard charging technology. While I was at it, I also installed a Progressive Industries 50-amp in-line EMS (if I had installed this from the beginning, I probably wouldn't have fried the converter!)

Yesterday, I drilled out the rivets on the old WFCO converter and took the cover off just to see what went wrong. As you can see from the pic, one of the capacitors has blown its top and spewed some brown gunk on the heat sink and other electrical components. Guess that's where the smoke was coming from!

[{tpc}]

From what I've read of the Progressive stuff and the pictures I can find on the internet, they look like a much better working and much better made unit than the WFCO. If I ever need to replace one, I'd probably go with the progressive.

[JRTJH]

From what I've read of the Progressive stuff and the pictures I can find on the internet, they look like a much better working and much better made unit than the WFCO. If I ever need to replace one, I'd probably go with the progressive.

The Progressive power converter/charger is likely "built better" and may even contain superior components. The cost of a 70 amp PI converter/charger on Amazon is around $230 and the cost of a 80 amp unit is around $320. The cost of a WFCO 75 amp converter/charger is $179.

Given that we all "bemoan the cheapness of Chinese tires" consistently on this forum, it's no surprise that Keystone (and probably most other RV manufacturers) use the least expensive components available during construction of their RV, so is there any doubt that Keystone would "save a penny" on the power converter/charger?

To kraftee, your statement that you probably would not have been in the situation you found yourself in (releasing that powerful smoke) had you previously installed an inline EMS that likely would have protected your converter/charger from the interrupted power source at that campground. We will never know for sure, but with the installation of your EMS, you've done much more than "spend camping dollars", you've installed the necessary protection for your operable converter charger and probably will circumvent future power issues. As you postulate, had you installed the EMS sooner, chances are you'd still be using your WFCO unit, with its full complement of "secret smoke".....

Just as we all upgrade our tires, water pumps, faucets, A/C ducting, lighting, stereo units, televisions, mattresses, range vent fans, furniture, carpeting, vinyl flooring, I suppose we can now add upgrading the power converter/charger to that list of "wish they'd do it better, but not increase the overall MSRP".......

[Akegb3]

Thanks for the tip. I had recently worked on the generator (Coleman Powermate Maxa 3000 OHV) to resolve a surging issue. Found a way to adjust the “idle” and had turned it way down making the surge go away. When using on the trailer noticed furnace was not putting out heat so cranked the idle in hopes of getting it to work properly. Well, just checked the voltage output with a multimeter and ithe output was showing 160-170. I’ve made additional adjustments to the idle and I’m getting about 105-110 voltage output without a load and 118-120 with load (circular saw). Is that how it should be adjusted?
Thanks!!

[bobbecky]

Voltage between 160 to 170 volts would have been the likely cause of a burned up converter. There must be something seriously wrong with the voltage control on that generator that needs to be resolved before you can safely use it to supply power to your RV. Forcing it to run slow can cause it to supply other than 60 Hz, which is the standard for AC power, and it should be able to supply a consistent voltage unloaded of close to 120 volts, and should be able to keep that voltage within it's load capacity range.

[Akegb3]

Thanks again for the quick reply and the info. I’ll look into finding a good mechanic. The generator is probably 20+ years old, perhaps time to just replace it.
Thanks!! Ed

[kraftee]

Do yourself a huge favor and out and buy a quiet new inverter generator. Either spend the big bucks for a Yamaha or Honda - or save some hard coin and buy a Predator (Harbour Freight) or Champion dual-fuel. I have a Predator 3500 and love it!

[sourdough]

Thanks for the tip. I had recently worked on the generator (Coleman Powermate Maxa 3000 OHV) to resolve a surging issue. Found a way to adjust the “idle” and had turned it way down making the surge go away. When using on the trailer noticed furnace was not putting out heat so cranked the idle in hopes of getting it to work properly. Well, just checked the voltage output with a multimeter and ithe output was showing 160-170. I’ve made additional adjustments to the idle and I’m getting about 105-110 voltage output without a load and 118-120 with load (circular saw). Is that how it should be adjusted?
Thanks!!

Your generator has SERIOUS problems and I would consider it unsafe to run most anything. At its age I wouldn't even think of a mechanic; I would toss it and buy me a new invertor/generator before it destroys something else. Adjusting the idle is not fixing the problem. I have no doubt it's the reason you smoked the converter.

[Akegb3]

I have to agree and currently looking for a replacement. Thanks for the input.

[sourdough]

I have to agree and currently looking for a replacement. Thanks for the input.

Good choice and good luck on finding one that works for you.

[Akegb3]

Do yourself a huge favor and out and buy a quiet new inverter generator. Either spend the big bucks for a Yamaha or Honda - or save some hard coin and buy a Predator (Harbour Freight) or Champion dual-fuel. I have a Predator 3500 and love it!

The Predator sounds really nice (online)! Unfortunately, it’s not sold in Alaska and they (Harbour Freight) don’t ship here! It’s looking like the Champion duel-fuel is gonna be my next purchase! Thanks for the info!

[Ccrew]

Any inverter be careful with reading the instructions on the particular unit. Specifically the process for shutting it off. Many inverters are very clean power until just at the moment of shutoff when they frequently spike voltage. I know for a fact that the Predator 3500 (I have one) calls for you to disconnect before shutting off.

[Akegb3]

Any inverter be careful with reading the instructions on the particular unit. Specifically the process for shutting it off. Many inverters are very clean power until just at the moment of shutoff when they frequently spike voltage. I know for a fact that the Predator 3500 (I have one) calls for you to disconnect before shutting off.

Thanks for the tip, good to know!