LCI Power Stabilizer Jack

[BamaRam]

After maybe 2 dozen uses the electric jack on front will not apply enough pressure to firmly seat the pads. I use boards underneath the pads and I always (per manual) extend to the board, then 1 second more on the switch. I test the seating by tapping into the board with my foot to be sure it won’t move. One second usually does the trick, but if it doesn’t I will give the switch another tap. I felt I needed to explain my process so y’all will know I have not been leveling the trailer with it.

When the pads reach the boards, it sounds like the clutch or gears are slipping. I checked the voltage to the motor while operating and it was 13.3.

Can it be anything besides the motor?

[flybouy]

On mine the motor shaft is connected to the jack screw by a coupling that's affixed by a roll pin. That roll pin can shear off and look normal but slip under load.

[BamaRam]

On mine the motor shaft is connected to the jack screw by a coupling that's affixed by a roll pin. That roll pin can shear off and look normal but slip under load.

I’ll have to take a closer look but I think mine has two roll pins or rivets.

[flybouy]

SI’ll have to take a closer look but I think mine has two roll pins or rivets.

That's how mine is. The coupling is a hollow tube that connects the two shafts and is secured by roll pins. If the roll pin has sheared then take a pair of pliers or dikes and grab the roll pin and remove it. You will have to do this 180 deg on the other side as well. Then use pliers or a small pipe wrench to turn the coupling until the hole in the coupling alights aligns with the one in the shaft, you will see the broken piece of roll pin if both sides are sheared off or the hole if not. Drive in a new rollpin and you are done. Hope this helps.

[BamaRam]

I checked the coupling while operating the jack. When the pads touch, the motor tries to put torque on the jack screw, the motor shaft, coupling, and jack screw all stall, the motor clicks, then it recoils from losing torque. There doesn’t appear to be any slippage at the coupling.

I think the motor is done.

[flybouy]

Sounds like the motor has given up.

[JRTJH]

Sounds like the motor has given up.

Or there's a loose or corroded connection in the wiring that feeds the jack(s) or an issue with the ground connection at the jack. I'd connect the specific jack in question to a "known good battery" and see if it exhibits the same problem. If so, it's the motor, if the jack lifts the trailer corner without stalling, it's the wiring/switch not providing a "good electrical source" to the motor.

ADDED: At $300 for a replacement jack/motor, I'd make sure all the troubleshooting is done before throwing money at a new jack. Might need one anyway, but be sure before spending the money.

[flybouy]

Or there's a loose or corroded connection in the wiring that feeds the jack(s) or an issue with the ground connection at the jack. I'd connect the specific jack in question to a "known good battery" and see if it exhibits the same problem. If so, it's the motor, if the jack lifts the trailer corner without stalling, it's the wiring/switch not providing a "good electrical source" to the motor.

ADDED: At $300 for a replacement jack/motor, I'd make sure all the troubleshooting is done before throwing money at a new jack. Might need one anyway, but be sure before spending the money.

As the OP stated he checked and was getting 13.3 v at the motor under load that would eliminate everything but the ground. His trailer is a 2018 so it should be covered under warranty.

[JRTJH]

As the OP stated he checked and was getting 13.3 v at the motor under load that would eliminate everything but the ground. His trailer is a 2018 so it should be covered under warranty.

A corroded connector (think fuzzy, green battery terminals) will read 13.3 VDC and not carry but maybe 0.5 amps. There could be a "severely corroded butt joint" that's getting hotter than heck, just above the coroplast. It would (could) be reading 13.3VDC and not carry enough amperage to power the motor....

We've all seen cars that won't start, turn on the ignition and the lights dim, clean the battery terminals and "VOILA" we have ignition..... Same "could apply" here. then maybe not, but definitely worth checking before spending $300.

Not arguing, just saying that before I declare a $300 motor bad, I'd sure check to make sure I'm getting "good power at the proper voltage AND amperage" to the motor...

[chuckster57]

A corroded connector (think fuzzy, green battery terminals) will read 13.3 VDC and not carry but maybe 0.5 amps. There could be a "severely corroded butt joint" that's getting hotter than heck, just above the coroplast. It would (could) be reading 13.3VDC and not carry enough amperage to power the motor....

We've all seen cars that won't start, turn on the ignition and the lights dim, clean the battery terminals and "VOILA" we have ignition..... Same "could apply" here. then maybe not, but definitely worth checking before spending $300.

Not arguing, just saying that before I declare a $300 motor bad, I'd sure check to make sure I'm getting "good power at the proper voltage AND amperage" to the motor...
DC amp gauge is an invaluable tool in my bag of tricks :)

[flybouy]

I totally agree on the due diligence. If he's getting proper voltage at the motor under load That should clear the positive feed. Any high resistance in that feed should reduce the volts by increasing the resistance. The example of battery terminal corrosion is a perfect example of this, the corrosion creates resistance and reduces the voltage, that's why the headlights dim.

[BamaRam]

DC amp gauge is an invaluable tool in my bag of tricks :)

My multimeter will read up to 10 amps connected in line to the load. About how much should I be looking for?

[chuckster57]

There should be a rating on the motor. With that information you can determine if its pulling to many. Ive seen higher than 10A. My meter is a clamp on style from Lowes made by SouthWire

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Southwire-1000-Amp-AC-DC-True-RMS-Clamp-Meter/50125829

[BamaRam]

There is no label of any kind on the motor and Lippert doesn’t give the specs on the website. I will put it on list of warranty repairs.

I untaped all of the splices at the switch and motor and did voltage drop checks from the battery while the motor was running and found no loss.

But I did find this little jewel. Second time I’ve found exposed center conductors at termination points. :eek:

[chuckster57]

Well that’s not good for sure. I’m curious what LCI will say is the proper fix. Might want to contact LCI directly and send that picture.

Every time I have talked to them it has been a very pleasant experience.

[BamaRam]

That’s the pig tail from the motor that’s buggered up so evidently it was done at the assembly plant.

Thanks for your suggestion to call LCI. I will make some calls tomorrow.

[chuckster57]

It is possible that the guy/girl on the assembly line at Keystone did that, depending on how long the pigtail is. If my worn out mind is still engaged, I think they come with about 3 ft of wiring.

[BamaRam]

It’s 10” at best.

With the wiring I’ve found on my trailer I’ve determined that at least one person doing wiring termination doesn’t know how to strip a jacket. Found the same thing on the main power lead at the breaker panel.

[LaTundra]

When my leveling jacks stopped working, I replaced them with 24 inch scissor jacks. No more shaking trailer.

[BamaRam]

Out of frustration with the shaky trailer and as a result of more research, I found that the jack screw was lubricated with what appears to be white lithium grease. It was on there when I bought the trailer new.

The manual say no lube necessary and may be detrimental to environment and dependability

I used a can of brake cleaner to remove the grease. Didn’t get all of it off but most of it.

It still wouldn’t hold the torque but it took it longer to unwind.

The nose of the trailer is low in the spot and I had an 8x8 and a 2x8 stacked under each pad, working under the pretense that the wider the footprint, the more stabilization.

What I failed to realize is that it takes more torque on the jack to push against the pads in that position.

I removed the 8x8s and it holds now.

Removing the grease helped with the higher/wider pad position. Still not sure if it should be holding in that position.

So I will try another can of brake clean and see what happens.

.