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EDM
08-11-2018, 12:33 PM
We just picked up our very first RV. We have a Montana High Country 305RL which is 34’ and weighs a little under 11,000 lbs. We are pulling with a Ford F-250 with a 6.5’ bed and an Andersen Ultimate hitch. We have almost no additional cargo in the trailer since everything is new and we are well within all of our towing capacity guidelines.

We have only been on the road about an hour and can barely get up to 60mph. Not because the engine is straining...there is no issue there. Our engine is quiet and RPMS are well below 2,000. However, as we get above 50mph, there is a lot of front-to-back “bucking” or jerking. It is very uncomfortable in the cab and I’m not sure if that is just the way it is or if there is some issue that we can improve.

Any suggestions for us? Thanks for the advice!

JRTJH
08-11-2018, 12:48 PM
That's NOT the way it's supposed to be, but it can be caused by a multitude of things.

First, if your trailer is empty, you may not have enough pin weight which would cause the trailer to rock front/rear over undulations in the road. That can cause the "bucking" you feel.

Second, you may have just been on a road with joint spacing "just right" for the truck to be at the bottom when the trailer is at the top. That, like low pin weight, can cause the trailer to "buck". We have experienced this towing travel trailers with WD hitches to the point that it actually "hurt to keep towing".

Third, you may have a bad shock on the truck ??

Fourth, You may have a badly unbalanced tire on the trailer, although this is very difficult to feel in the tow vehicle.

Fifth, your hitch height may be off enough to cause the trailer pin to "ride high" or "ride low" which could affect the towing and multiply the effect in the cab.

I'd not plan any "major modifications" until after you get the trailer loaded for camping/travel and the cargo is properly positioned front to rear to maintain a 20% (or close) pin weight and you know that the pinbox and hitch are correctly adjusted. You may find that once the trailer has more cargo, it won't bounce as much.

ADDED: As an afterthought, do you know where your fresh water tank is located? If it's in front of the axles, filling it will add weight to the pinbox. That may be all you need to at least get the trailer home comfortably. If it's behind the axles, you might want to make sure it's empty so you remove as much weight as you can from behind the axles, effectively increasing weight forward of the axles.

craftguy
08-11-2018, 01:42 PM
Just a quick thought, we have a Laredo 325rl and the Anderson hitch. First few times we towed it was rough some, and bucked a little. We were in the shop of a warranty issue and when the tech reattached the hitch to the fifth wheel and then to my truck when he noticed the ball high on the hitch in the bed. So much that it created an angle. He suggested and moved the ball down one notch. I told him they were the ones that installed it when we bought it. He appologized.....they did it wrong he said. Since then been much smoother and little to zero buck at a stop or take off.

Jeff

JimMach1
08-11-2018, 02:36 PM
I would agree with craftguy we have the same hitch and that’s what we done lowered it one hole I also have airbags on the truck a little air will also take the bucking out of mine.

gearhead
08-11-2018, 06:33 PM
Your fresh water tank is probably all the way to the rear. I'm thinking you don't have much cargo up front. You may try filling it with a minimum amount of water if you are going to a campground with full hook ups.
Ours actually rides pretty good now, I experienced the same thing you are. I put a 5th Airborne pin box on and pretty much fixed it. Then added a washer dryer combo, wife's 28 pair of shoes, RV junk from Camping World, and barbell weights to hold down the awning shade. All is well now.
So, fill that cargo bay up and see if it gets any better. Like: a fire pit, an Old Smoky smoker, propane grill, 2 folding tables, Coleman stove, 3-4 folding chairs, 2 folding ottomans, 2 ammo cans of tools, battery operated impact, torque wrench, 3 or 4 bags of different flavor charcoal, fishing stuff, etc.

ledunn
08-12-2018, 04:36 AM
When I towed with a F-250 replacing the shocks helped a lot. I also added a Moryde rubber pin box and that made a big difference in the ride. Balancing the tires will also help with ride. Get it pulling right and you will enjoy your trips much more.

rhagfo
08-12-2018, 05:12 AM
Looking at your stated 5er weight you are pulling it empty. Even at that the dry pin is listed at 2,395 about 22% that is a decent percentage. I would get some "stuff" loaded into it so ready to camp and see how it tows. New shocks for the TV are a good thought, Bilstein 4600 or 5100's.

EDM
08-12-2018, 05:13 AM
Here is an update. The initial highway we were on was concrete with ridges on each section. The “rhythm” of the road was getting super amplified and rough. The last hour of our trip was on another highway and we pulled super smooth. I REALLY appreciate the great comments and I will likely need to try some of those adjustments to help on the rough roads.

boxcar
08-14-2018, 02:09 PM
I've felt your pain. When my old F250 was new I stopped several times on I-25 to get out to see if a tire had gone oblong. The ridges on the cement on some Colorado roads caused me to hit resonant frequency and the truck would jump around. It gets better as the shocks wear and some people say that airbags make a huge improvement.

RoscoeV
08-15-2018, 10:48 AM
I occasionally travel I-76 in Colorado up ti I-80 and the cement seams are killers in some spots. Then if it's real windy you have the tumble weeds flying across the road in front of you. It gets to be amusing at times.

Local150
08-18-2018, 03:42 PM
Hope you have found the problem. I have a 28 ft. 5th wheel with one slide,, and have it full of "stuff" I am pulling it with a 1500 Silverado it pulls it surprisingly well,, but I was getting some bucking so put air bags on and mad a world of difference

labman
08-18-2018, 06:03 PM
x'2 on the airbags. I have em on my f250 powerstroke 6.5' and they work. when you get them measure the distance from the back bumper to the ground (with 5lbs air in them and no 5'er on the truck). hook up the 5'er and put enough air in until it equals the distance w/o trailer. I had to pull my sprinter last January w/o air in mine from Mn to Az because one had failed early on in the journey. the trip down was bucky. I had it fixed while in Tucson and the trip back was a dream. 2000 miles without was tough. BTW, a little kudo for the guys at the suspension place in Tucson. They found the valve core had failed on one of the bags and replaced it for no charge. They had the truck on the hoist for 30 minutes with a tech and said have a nice day. If you are in the Tucson area and need suspension work, these guys are honest and fair in their pricing. (http://tcr2auto.com/lift-kits/suspension-lift-kits/) jm two cents worth.

fjr vfr
08-18-2018, 06:32 PM
Having gone from a bumper pull to a 5'r I notice that SOME chucking is normal, but I do mean some. Overall I find it rides and handles better than the bumper pull did with a wdh.
We just came back from our first real trip. Shortly before leaving I installed Sumo Springs and the ride was very smooth. I would also recommend adding either air bags, Sumo springs or Timbren. You will like the improvement.