Surge protector

[Travler]

Ok I am not a electrician. So this is why I am asking. A lot of treads have been saying that my 5th wheel should be hooked to a expensive surge protector. My question is why. The camp grounds that I have been to all have a breaker in their box that I hook my shore line to and I also have a main breaker in my 5th wheel. So I see that I am double protected. How am I wrong. Please explain . That is what the breakers do is protect the wiring.

Thanks to all who respond. Just trying to figure this out.

[Frank G]

You will get a lot of answers and explanations here, some from well educated sources and some not so qualified. Might I suggest you do some research on line from reliable sources such as the manufactures of the devices and pay attention to the features of the devices they manufacture. Progressive Industries is a good start. Short answer to your question, the park pedestal and the circuit breakers in your unit give very limited protection mostly over current protection.

[Harleydodge]

Breakers WILL NOT protect you from a power surge. They are there to protect you from something WITHIN your RV from drawing too much amperage and causing a fire or other damage.
A power surge from an outside source is an "over voltage" situation, as opposed to Amperage, and can result in major damage to anything connected to it.
A surge protector will (help) guard against this and that is why it is recommended.
A complete EMS, or electrical management system will do that, as well as tell you if the power supply you are connected to is properly wired and grounded and if the supplied voltage is within proper specification. All things that a common circuit breaker cannot and will not do.
Hope that helps.


Added: I will also say that instead of considering a good EMS system an "expensive" addition to your RV, you should consider it as being a really cheap insurance policy on all of your on-board electrical systems and appliances that you need to only pay for once.

[sourdough]

"Breakers" perform a very minimal task. Example: you have breakers in your trailer. If you plug a toaster and some other high draw components on that circuit and pull more than that allocated breaker (say 15A) it will trip. At the ped you will have a 30 or 50A plug. If all the appliances you have on do not throw a breaker in the trailer BUT all of it combined is over the rating of the breaker in the ped it will blow. They are protecting you from pulling too much current and burning something up.....end of the breaker story. They do nothing for a power surge.

A cheap "surge protector" for the trailer, either at the ped or inline, will protect you from a power surge....so, if you have one of those and the breakers your breakers will trip when the draw is too high and the EMS will trip if you have a sudden surge - that's it.

The EMS does many other things. It provides the protections of both of the above along with reverse polarity, low voltage, high voltage, loss of ground etc.

The things that generally get a trailer, or the owner, isn't the surge or pulling too much "juice". It's the reversed polarity, lack of ground, brown outs etc. We just had one poster that fried their ped connection due to too small of an extension cord....the breaker didn't take care of it but the EMS would have.

The EMS is worth far more than you pay for it. One event when it works can save you thousands of dollars, or, your life. It analyzes the power you are getting (many rv parks have really shoddy power distribution) and won't let your trailer get hurt. The list goes on and on. It has saved my bacon several times and there are others on here that will attest to the same. I believe it is the general consensus that they are a must have for the reasons above.

[Javi]

"Breakers" perform a very minimal task. Example: you have breakers in your trailer. If you plug a toaster and some other high draw components on that circuit and pull more than that allocated breaker (say 15A) it will trip. At the ped you will have a 30 or 50A plug. If all the appliances you have on do not throw a breaker in the trailer BUT all of it combined is over the rating of the breaker in the ped it will blow. They are protecting you from pulling too much current and burning something up.....end of the breaker story. They do nothing for a power surge.

A cheap "surge protector" for the trailer, either at the ped or inline, will protect you from a power surge....so, if you have one of those and the breakers your breakers will trip when the draw is too high and the EMS will trip if you have a sudden surge - that's it.

The EMS does many other things. It provides the protections of both of the above along with reverse polarity, low voltage, high voltage, loss of ground etc.

The things that generally get a trailer, or the owner, isn't the surge or pulling too much "juice". It's the reversed polarity, lack of ground, brown outs etc. We just had one poster that fried their ped connection due to too small of an extension cord....the breaker didn't take care of it but the EMS would have.

The EMS is worth far more than you pay for it. One event when it works can save you thousands of dollars, or, your life. It analyzes the power you are getting (many rv parks have really shoddy power distribution) and won't let your trailer get hurt. The list goes on and on. It has saved my bacon several times and there are others on here that will attest to the same. I believe it is the general consensus that they are a must have for the reasons above.

Yep... EMS, Slide Awnings and Auto Level are must haves..:cool:

[SummitPond]

... It has saved my bacon several times ...

We've had ours (Progressive Industry hardwired) a little over a year; already it has saved us from a reverse polarity and several undervoltage situations.

Like said above ... cheap insurance.

[Laredo Tugger]

Javi's quote: Yep... EMS, Slide Awnings and Auto Level are must haves.
I would mark that "true" on the test.
I do not understand why all the major RV manufactures do not include EMS systems in the build. Slide covers (not sure here,might be aftermarket only) and auto level yes, but EMS no?
I don't think the $400 price is going to make the difference in a sale. And much easier installed at the factory.
Just my thoughts.
RMc

[travelin texans]

Most rv parks/campgrounds utilities are showing their age, add to that most are maintained by folks that aren't or never were electricians & rvs are getting more & more high tech with lots of electronic equipment, so the surge protector/ems is very cheap insurance compared to a fridge, several tv's, water heater, as well as what you've pulled into the outlets.
I agree the surge protector/EMS should be mandatory equipment installed at the factory, but it would be like most items they add, the cheapest crap on the market, so maybe best we add our own.
Also mine has saved us more than once & on one occasion fried the protector.
Simple answer, if you don't have one, get one asap!

[cynnich]

We have the
Progressive Industries EMS-PT50X Portable RV Surge Protector - 50 Amp. Purchased from Amazon.

[Plumbtrician]

I’ve seen first hand what “dirty voltage” can do to appliances, tv’s, components, etc. in homes. Not to mention the safety aspect.

Like most have already said above, the loss of a ground (among other things) at your shore power pedestal could be very hazardous, even life threatening. An EMS will shut you down if this, or any other “bad thing” happens at the ped.

A cheaper surge protector will give you a nice pretty light indicating a problem, but if you see it, then it’s too late. Damage may have already been caused.

I installed a hardwired unit inside the trailer to eliminate the possibility of theft. It was one of the first mods I did. Also has a lifetime warranty (Progressive Industries)

I’d rather have it and not need it, than need it and not have it. ;)

[Hookoil]

I have been looking for one and just ordered the 50 amp hardwired progressive industries from amazon. My 30 amp on the travel trailer saved me twice from pedistals mis wired

[anuccite]

In Nashville a couple weeks ago... During a lightning storm, DW actually complained when the TV shut off twice when my Progressive Hard wire noticed the over voltage and shut everything off....


When I explained that she will be glad when the TV actually comes back on.... She still complained.... But that's why i love her....:banghead::angel:

[flybouy]

An EMS (electrical management system) does far more than just surge protection. It will disconnect the power source for various faults as mentioned including over or under voltage, improper wiring, missing neutral and ground. One very important aspect not mentioned yet is the time delay. Have you ever seen the "lights flicker" during a wind storm or lightning event? Typically it's caused by the power company overvoltage protection. When that happens it can burn up the air conditioner compressor and wipe out sensitive electronics such as refrigerator control boards. The EMS will have a time delay built in so when the power is interrupted it will take 30 seconds to a minute before the EMS will reset and allow the power back on saving these appliances.

[Triple GGG]

I have the Progressive portable EMS 50amp. The campground at the lake where we have a permanent setup has constant low voltage issues (106 to 107) sometimes to where we can't run one ac let alone both. I just got the Hughes Autoformer RV220-50SP. My question is can I run the Progressive after the Autoformer or is it necessary since I have the Autoformer. Have used progressive for years but have heard good thing s about the Autoformer as well.

[LFord]

Breakers WILL NOT protect you from a power surge.

***

A surge protector will (help) guard against this and that is why it is recommended.
***

Added: I will also say that instead of considering a good EMS system an "expensive" addition to your RV, you should consider it as being a really cheap insurance policy on all of your on-board electrical systems and appliances that you need to only pay for once.


I agree, and "bit the bullet" on buying the "expensive," full EMS system from Progressive (30 amp PTC model), which I figured was much cheaper than replacing all the electronic control boards in the TT's applicances. Plus, it let's me know if there's something "funky" with the RV park's AC supply BEFORE I plug the TT into it! Some of the older RV parks especially can have wildly fluctuating voltages from what I have read, and having spent many years in the Amateur Radio hobby, I know that can be "quick death" to sensitive electronics.

[HANGAR]

I have the Progressive portable EMS 50amp. The campground at the lake where we have a permanent setup has constant low voltage issues (106 to 107) sometimes to where we can't run one ac let alone both. I just got the Hughes Autoformer RV220-50SP. My question is can I run the Progressive after the Autoformer or is it necessary since I have the Autoformer. Have used progressive for years but have heard good thing s about the Autoformer as well.

The Hughes unit has 4,800 Joules of protection. The Progressive portable units vary, but they're around 3,600 Joules. It wouldn't hurt anything to use the Progressive unit after the autoformer, but it may not be necessary.

[flybouy]

Triple GGG I have an older 30 amp Autoformer that I use upstream of my EMS with no issues. Have been using in that form for years.

[Triple GGG]

Thanks for the input. I ran up and setup the Autoformer with the Progressive EMS downstream. Everything worked fantastic. I had 107 volts and after installing both ACs ran just fine. I even fired up the microwave while they were running. I'm very happy. With all these storms rolling through the Knoxville area I may need 4 surge protectors. Lol.

[sdetweil]

...

I installed a hardwired unit inside the trailer to eliminate the possibility of theft. It was one of the first mods I did. Also has a lifetime warranty (Progressive Industries)

I’d rather have it and not need it, than need it and not have it. ;)

i added a generator (and transfer switch) to my 5th wheel and added the hardwired progressive EMS 50amp unit at the same time. didn't like the price, but have seen the results of not having one.

[bradufault]

We were camping in a Florida and I did not think I need to put mine on. That night we had thunder and lighting storm. To top it off the was also a power surge,
Long story short, did about $1800 damages to my 5th and nothing really work that well afterwards.
I now put my on no matter what.

[CoffmanKA]

Breakers WILL NOT protect you from a power surge. They are there to protect you from something WITHIN your RV from drawing too much amperage and causing a fire or other damage.
A power surge from an outside source is an "over voltage" situation, as opposed to Amperage, and can result in major damage to anything connected to it.
A surge protector will (help) guard against this and that is why it is recommended.
A complete EMS, or electrical management system will do that, as well as tell you if the power supply you are connected to is properly wired and grounded and if the supplied voltage is within proper specification. All things that a common circuit breaker cannot and will not do.
Hope that helps.


Added: I will also say that instead of considering a good EMS system an "expensive" addition to your RV, you should consider it as being a really cheap insurance policy on all of your on-board electrical systems and appliances that you need to only pay for once.



******
I agree with this statement above. We took a pretty direct hit that knocked out our surge protector, but thankfully, did NOT destroy any of our electrical appliances, tv, laptop, refrigerator, dishwasher, satelite system, etc. Purchase a good surge protector, and sleep better at night.

~Bob & Kim Coffman

[Old soldier]

Safety and appliance protection. Pedestals can be in very poor shape. People abuse them, and breakers just get weak/old. You see schmucks trying to draw 50 amp camper power hogs trhrough 30 amp with 503 different cord adapters. Play it safe: get a surge protector. And check to ensure the circuit breakers were left in the off position before plugging in. Same schmucks leave the site with pedestals turned on. You can get an arc that will blow your camper’s circuits and fry your appliances. You can buy a lot of surge protectors for the price of one fridge.

[johnlewis]

Here's the reason. Voltage can vary. Many of your AC electrical components are designed to operate at 120 VAC +/-10% (108 VAC to 132 VAC). Motors use watts. If the voltage drops too low, motors have to draw more amperage (Watts = volts x amps). More amps makes the motor run hotter, and you can burn up a motor. Some electronics don't work well on low voltage, and high voltage can burn up electronics. We have a high end surge protector (about $500.00). This is much cheaper than replacing an air conditioner or a refrigerator.

[azchoco]

I have a Progressive surge protector for my 5th wheel. It has a lot to protect because I have the inCommand system.

The supressor I have is plugged in to the pedestal first. Circuit breakers only protect your rv if you draw more amps than the breaker size, i.e. 15 amps. If you draw more than 15 amps it will trip the breaker and that is all. A surge suppressor protects you from power surges and voltage drops which both can cause damage to th our RV. Mine disconnects the power in both cases protecting my RV. It was about $400 but one surge can fry my iCommand or other component that are on costing much more than $400 to repair .

[bobbecky]

Ok I am not a electrician. So this is why I am asking. A lot of treads have been saying that my 5th wheel should be hooked to a expensive surge protector. My question is why. The camp grounds that I have been to all have a breaker in their box that I hook my shore line to and I also have a main breaker in my 5th wheel. So I see that I am double protected. How am I wrong. Please explain . That is what the breakers do is protect the wiring.

Thanks to all who respond. Just trying to figure this out.

There have been a number of answers to your question, but none are really giving you an accurate answer. The breaker in the pedestal is not there to protect you or anything in your RV, but is there to protect the rest of the park from an electrical problem in your RV or even in the shore cord. Your main breaker in your panel protects the panel from a failure in the panel so your trailer is also protected from a large electrical incident. Each of the smaller breakers protect the panel from an overload or failure on the circuit it is supplying power to. Most electricians do not understand this concept either, but this is which way the protection is supposed to work, not the other way around. This is the same as fuses or circuit breakers work at high voltages in the utility systems that bring power to your home or the park you may be at, to protect the larger system from a failure on a smaller branch of the system. So all this said so you can see a not really so expensive device as an EMS is the only way to protect you and your RV from voltage issues that can cause you a very large expense due to a low or high voltage, a missing ground or neutral, or several other expensive issues that will not cause a breaker to trip.

[parkgirl]

We have had our trailer installed in the same RV park for the past 7 years. We never bothered with an EMS or surge protector because the park we are in is very reputable and we were even in a newer section with all new wiring in that area. Because we weren't moving around to different/unknown parks we thought we were safe. At the end of last summer, the trailer across from us had their fridge, microwave, TV and several other items completely fried by some sort of electrical malfunction/surge. Turns out the entire row of trailers across from us were also affected, each of them losing major appliances, converters, etc. to the problem. The cost of repairs is the responsibility of the trailer owner (or hopefully their insurance) not the park. We immediately bought a Progressive Industries EMS. Now, just this past weekend, everybody kept losing power in our section, so obviously the park has some serious issues. I am so relieved to have the EMS. It's worth every penny to have that peace of mind that we aren't going to be out thousands of dollars potentially.
parkgirl

[flybouy]

Parkgirl good move. Old soldier I have to take issue with the "power hods connecting 30 amp to 50". I have a 30 amp camper and whenever a 50 amp outlet is available I will use ONE dogbone adapter to connect. Here's why, the main breaker in the campers panel still limits max amperage draw to 30 amps. Typically the 30 amp outlet gets used the most and has been in use longer and therefore will have a less positive mechanical/electrical connection. I agree that folks not turning the breaker off before connecting or disconnecting the plug compounds the issue by causing the connections to arc. I don't know how much of this is due to not being educated vs not caring. This is just some of the reasons for having an EMS for protecting your investment. For those of us that have been camping for decades we have seen the times change regarding energy usage in campers. Years ago a 15 amp circuit was sufficient, then people demand air conditioning and microwaves and 30 amp became the norm. Most cg changed over the outlets but not necessarily the transformer or the wire size. Now people want 2 or 3 air conditioners, enough lighting to make a used car lot jealous, sat dishes, induction cook tops, convection ovens, multiple battery charging, well you get the picture. As demand constantly increases the available supply is taxed to the point of breaking. This is happening large scale with power grids and rolling brown outs etc. The cost for the cg owner to upgrade the electrical system in their park is typically cost prohibitive. To compound the problem most cg's have a maintenance worker that's not trained even in basic electrical work repairing their antiquated systems. The only thing we can do is protect ourselves with the best available device, an EMS. Hope this helps.

[cavediver]

I have not seen this anywhere, but circuit breakers and fuses are designed for one reason only. To protect the wiring! ! That's all. House or RV they are designed to stop your wiring from becoming a toaster, and burning your home or RV to the ground. If your wiring is under sized say that you use a cheep 22 Guage extention cord to power an AC unit on a 20 amp circuit. It won't trip the breaker but the cord will get hot. Much like the toaster only not in closed in something designed to hold the heat. Leave it run the AC long enough it will melt the insulation, if you're lucky the wires will touch and then trip the breaker. If not your home or RV will burn.

Jack

[dpankowski]

I bought this portable unit Surge Guard model 34950

https://www.campingworld.com/50-amp-portable-surge-guard-with-lcd-display

before I read this forum post. Everyone seems to like the progressive industries. Does anyone have experience with the SurgeGuard unit? I'd hate to have to buy another EMS.

[sourdough]

I have the unit in the link and have had for 5 seasons. IMO it's as good as the Progressive but does not have the lifetime warranty. It hasn't failed me yet and I really like the readout it gives when analyzing the power. Surge Guard also makes a security "coupler" that goes around the connection at your trailer power cable. I've got a Master lock on mine. Won't stop any determined thief but will slow down a passerby that thinks they'll just unplug it and take it.

[JRTJH]

Surge Gard and Progressive devices are both quality devices and, for the most part, are comparable. The "preference for PI" at least in my opinion, is in the warranty. PI has a lifetime warranty that covers all events (other than physical damage/misuse) and will repair/replace the unit if it fails. Surge Gard also has a lifetime warranty that covers "SOME" events, but excludes damage from power surges. Here is what their warranty document states:

"Surge Protection Feature
Surge Guard surge protectors are designed to sacrifice themselves in
order to save equipment connected to it. If your surge protector is not
allowing current to pass and/or the protection working LED indicator is
off, then your surge protector has performed its duty, protecting your
equipment, and the Limited Lifetime Warranty is void. You will need to
purchase a new unit to replace the expired unit."

So, essentially, either brand will protect your RV equally, but if you experience a power surge that damages the device, PI will replace it, Surge Gard will not.

[Laredo Tugger]

OK, four pages later I am convinced I need I surge protector. A no brainer, I knew that. I had the inline PI 30 amp unit on my TT. It wasn't too difficult to install and worked well. I am looking to purchase the PI (external) 50 amp for my 5er. With a good lock(Is that "box" that locks at the pedestal worth the money?) and weather protection it will do the job.
I have seen some on here that use a surge protector and a Hughes Autoformer together. Are both necessary? This unit, Hughes Autoformers RV220-50SP Voltage Booster (with Surge Protection) offers protection and voltage boost. It is more expensive than the PI unit, but is this the correct way to "support" surge protection with power boost ?
Like anybody else I just want to get the right tool the first time.
Thanks,
RMc

[travelin texans]

I have the 50 amp portable that's been in use daily for the last 10 years (well it's actually the 2nd one, 1st fried & replaced) all across the country without being locked & has never sprouted legs, so lock it if you want, but I haven't found it necessary.
As to the auto former, don't have one, haven't needed one as far as I know & at this point ain't spending the $$$$ to get one, but again it's your money.

[Triple GGG]

The only reason I have both is I had the PI 50amp EMS. Campground we are now at year round has low voltage. I purchased the Hughes Autoformer for this reason. Running both just because I have them. I'd you don't need the voltage boost the PI is fantastic and all you need. If you need voltage boost I would only get the Autoformer.

[Laredo Tugger]

So I gather to do it right and do it once, the Autoformer is the best investment. Getting both high and low voltage protection from one unit.
I know it is more money, but done once a $500 investment is cheap insurance against any voltage fluctuations that may occur. BTW, I will lock this unit. I lock everything. Just me............
RMc

[travelin texans]

If you only get the auto former you may not need the lock, they are VERY heavy so whomever won't be "running" away while lugging it.

[Triple GGG]

If you only get the auto former you may not need the lock, they are VERY heavy so whomever won't be "running" away while lugging it.Yes they are heavy

[Laredo Tugger]

I guess I will have to be on the lookout for a thief with a shopping cart. :)
I'm sure he's out there.
Thanks
RMc

[flybouy]

If someone steals the Auto former the load grunt followed by a load thud will give them away! Just look for the guy that winces and walks funny.

[Laredo Tugger]

The weight on Amazon say's 35 lbs.
Yes ,you will not be able to sprint from the police with that under your arm. I guess someone could drive up and lug it to their vehicle and then run.
That weight with the top handle will give me an excuse to not go to the gym. Just go out and hoist that thing over my head a few times in the morning. Workout complete.
RMc

[Northofu1]

I bought this portable unit Surge Guard model 34950

https://www.campingworld.com/50-amp-portable-surge-guard-with-lcd-display

before I read this forum post. Everyone seems to like the progressive industries. Does anyone have experience with the SurgeGuard unit? I'd hate to have to buy another EMS.

I have the 30A Progressive Industries portable for my trailer. I am starting to think I should just get the PI inline and take the hit on cost over stress factor.

[Northofu1]

OK, four pages later I am convinced I need I surge protector. A no brainer, I knew that. I had the inline PI 30 amp unit on my TT. It wasn't too difficult to install and worked well. I am looking to purchase the PI (external) 50 amp for my 5er. With a good lock(Is that "box" that locks at the pedestal worth the money?) and weather protection it will do the job.
I have seen some on here that use a surge protector and a Hughes Autoformer together. Are both necessary? This unit, Hughes Autoformers RV220-50SP Voltage Booster (with Surge Protection) offers protection and voltage boost. It is more expensive than the PI unit, but is this the correct way to "support" surge protection with power boost ?
Like anybody else I just want to get the right tool the first time.
Thanks,
RMc

I have that lock box on my portable PI, I haven't used a pedestal yet that I can lock it to. I am in Canada however.

[Northofu1]

The weight on Amazon say's 35 lbs.
Yes ,you will not be able to sprint from the police with that under your arm. I guess someone could drive up and lug it to their vehicle and then run.
That weight with the top handle will give me an excuse to not go to the gym. Just go out and hoist that thing over my head a few times in the morning. Workout complete.
RMc

LOL Laredo

[Northofu1]

I just put a price watch on it at camelcamelcamel, fingers crossed

[Laredo Tugger]

northofu1:"I have that lock box on my portable PI, I haven't used a pedestal yet that I can lock it to. I am in Canada however".
For the price of the Autoformer, I would probably use an extension cord from the pedestal and lock it to my wheel/axle under the 5er. That would solve the weather exposure as well.
RMc

[itat]

I have a 30A hard wired PI EMS and a non-surge protector Hughes Autoformer. I made a 10’ cord to go from the trailer to the Autoformer and use 25’ extension cords as required from the Autoformer to the pedestal. I use a cable lock to lock it to a stabilizer jack. The Autoformer is not weather-proof so I sit in on a brick, cover it with a larger blue recycling box (upside down) and put another brick on top of the blue box to prevent it from being tipped over by the wind.

[johnlewis]

We have a surge protector because the approximately $500.00 I spent on it protects my refrigerator ($1,700.00 replacement cost), A/C units ($600.00 to $800.00 replacement cost), and expensive electronics.
The equipment in an RV is designed for 120 VAC +/-10% (108 VAC to 132 VAC). Motors in A/C units operate off wattage (volts x amps = watts). If the voltage goes to low, the motor tries to draw too many amps, so it gets too hot and burns up. If the voltage gets too high (above 132 VAC), it can get fried by the high voltage. Electronics are expensive to replace, and you have to wait for shipment from the manufacturer. Do you want to be down for 2 to 3 weeks, waiting for a new electronics board?
We have a Progressive Industries SSP 50-XL. It has shut down because of voltage too high or too low 3 times, so I think it is worth it.

[zippersbs]

I have a question? I have worked with electricity for many years in houses & some businesses, but not so much in RV's. Nobody in all the responses I have read said anything about 30 amp or 50 amp surge protector breakers, why is that? If the main box has enough room for a surge protector breaker, would this not serve the same purpose? These breakers i've seen are half the price of the overpriced surge pigtails. It's actually cheaper buying a spa/sauna exterior box that has the surge breaker already installed & making your own for a 1/3 of the price, just a thought. I just wanted to know whether the surge main breaker would work the same as the surge pigtail? Any thoughts?

[JRTJH]

If surge protection is all you're looking for, then a "surge protection circuit breaker" may be cheaper. If you're looking at voltage protection, ground fault protection, neutral/hot lead reversal protection as well as surge protection, then those features aren't available in a surge protection circuit breaker or in a sauna/hot tub connection box... At least I haven't seen one that has the additional features.

[Howie]

Can someone help me with a question concerning the Progressive ems 50 I just ordered? It didn't occur to me until I ordered it but if you are in a camp ground that only has 30 amp service, can the 50 come into play/use? I haven't seen any comments about this situation.

[Javi]

Can someone help me with a question concerning the Progressive ems 50 I just ordered? It didn't occur to me until I ordered it but if you are in a camp ground that only has 30 amp service, can the 50 come into play/use? I haven't seen any comments about this situation.

Yes... just use a 30 to 50 amp dogbone

[JRTJH]

Howie,

If you use a 30 amp to 50 amp adapter "dogbone" it will connect the single phase 30 amps to both legs of your 50 amp RV plug. So the PI EMS will detect the incoming voltage on both legs and your RV will function "the same as when plugged into 50 amps"... The significant difference is that you will only have 30 amps (rather than 50 amps on two legs/100 amps) of available power. Your power distribution panel will share the 30 amps with any circuit breaker that calls for power, but the maximum available power is reduced.

So, everything in your RV will function the same as when you're on 50 amp power, but not everything can be turned on at the same time (like when you're plugged into 50 amp power).....