missing power somewhere

[kdorsett]

We just bought a 2012 Keystone Bullet. Had it plugged to shore power (regular outlet) this week to give a good cleaning. Everything worked great, initially. Yesterday the ac and clock on the microwave quit working. I can hear the AC click, but won't blow air. I've checked all of the fuses, and checked all of the breakers. Nothing seems to be wrong there. Slide out works fine. Any thoughts?

[14george]

Are you plugged in a30 amp outlet or a outlet like a lamp plugs into

[kdorsett]

I honestly don't know. The breaker has a 20, so I'm assuming not. It was working fine previously. Maybe I messed something up?

[14george]

Can’t Romberg how many amps ac pulls if your trying to run ac hot water tank microwave at same time you could be overloading circuit

[sourdough]

Sounds like you're on a regular 120vac circuit. If so, you're ability to use electrical "things" is very limited. If you're in the unit trying to clean and have the lights on (non LED) and using a vacuum, that's about all you can do. If you run the AC....that's about all you can do.

Sounds like you've blown the breaker that feeds the outlet you have the trailer plugged into. Slides run on 12vdc, not 120vac. Turn everything in the trailer off then reset the breaker to the AC outlet the trailer is plugged into. Go back to the trailer and set the clock on the microwave; you should be able to set it and that tells you that you have AC in the trailer again. After that only turn on ONE power hog at a time; AC or microwave or vacuum etc. And, if you haven't changed the lights to LED you need to or keep in mind that the more of them you turn on the more power you are pulling and you have to take that into account.

[kdorsett]

If you can't tell, I have no idea what I'm doing regarding this thing. It came with no manuals either. I apologize for my ignorance. I'm not actively trying to run any water or microwave. Just lights and AC (it's in the 90s today here) while I'm cleaning. I honestly don't even know if I have all of the switches on that I should. The guy at the dealership tried to teach me (in his defense), but I obviously need some refresher. When it quit working, it did trip the breaker initially. I turned everything off in the camper and then reset the breaker. Here is a picture of what switches I have on the wall. The top obviously runs the ac, I turned it off because I didn't want to mess anything up) The bottom is the tank levels. But I don't even know what the middle one is for. Could this be the problem as well?https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipMIOYn-3qKwn5mGSL8n3lwLF9T_4ErrCTbhXHVz

[kdorsett]

https://photos.app.goo.gl/pS9Vr5FNW4zIFrgB2

[kdorsett]

I obviously can't post a picture either... I'm so sorry... very frustrated

[14george]

If you can't tell, I have no idea what I'm doing regarding this thing. It came with no manuals either. I apologize for my ignorance. I'm not actively trying to run any water or microwave. Just lights and AC (it's in the 90s today here) while I'm cleaning. I honestly don't even know if I have all of the switches on that I should. The guy at the dealership tried to teach me (in his defense), but I obviously need some refresher. When it quit working, it did trip the breaker initially. I turned everything off in the camper and then reset the breaker. Here is a picture of what switches I have on the wall. The top obviously runs the ac, I turned it off because I didn't want to mess anything up) The bottom is the tank levels. But I don't even know what the middle one is for. Could this be the problem as well?https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipMIOYn-3qKwn5mGSL8n3lwLF9T_4ErrCTbhXHVz


didn’t get picture

[sourdough]

I, nor anyone else on the forum, "can tell" anything about your trailer unless you tell us. We have no affiliation with Keystone and only know about various trailers and trailer "stuff" from experience.

I know you're frustrated but us knowing everything you've done, what happened when x was turned on/off etc. gives us much better insight into what is going on vs making 10,000 guesses shooting in the dark.

What kind of switch are you referencing for the AC? Mine is controlled by a thermostat. Do you know if you actually have electricity in the trailer? Take anything with a cord on it (light, drill, etc) that you can turn on, plug into an outlet and verify that it's working - or, just turn on the microwave. It should run just fine if everything is OK.

[14george]

Go to breaker panel in trailer check For tripped breakers

[kdorsett]

https://imgur.com/a/LZ5BUXt

Still trying to post the picture. We unplugged the camper and plugged something else into the outlet that we are using and it works fine, so that is getting power. Some things in the camper will work, just not the ac (just clicks initially) and the time on the microwave won't light up.

[kdorsett]

I checked the breaker panel and didn't find any. Flipped them off then back on just to make sure. (There's only one panel, right?) I also checked all of the fuses in the panel and didn't see any blown.

[14george]

https://imgur.com/a/LZ5BUXt

Still trying to post the picture. We unplugged the camper and plugged something else into the outlet that we are using and it works fine, so that is getting power. Some things in the camper will work, just not the ac (just clicks initially) and the time on the microwave won't light up.

There is a breaker panel in camper check breakers in there

[sourdough]

The AC and the time on the microwave both run on AC current. Will the microwave itself come on? What else works? You have 2 sources of power in the RV - 12vdc and 120vac. Different things work on each of those.

As 14george mentioned, you have a breaker panel in the house that feeds the plug the RV is plugged into; you also have a breaker panel in the RV that feeds everything electrical in the camper. If the AC AND microwave won't run you're looking at a loss of AC power somewhere along the line. Since you've blown the breaker already, something caused that - hopefully it wasn't something that would destroy the electrical appliances.

[kdorsett]

I checked breakers and fuses in the camper and didn't see a problem. Flipped the breaker inside and out of the house and no problems found. Plugged something else into the pole the camper is plugged into and it works fine. Slide out works fine. Lights inside work fine. Fridge light (that shows power is on) comes on. (each checked after previous one turned back off) Microwave still doesn't work (clock doesn't even light up) and didn't try the ac again (didn't want to mess it up)

[sourdough]

Everything that you say is working is 12vdc only. You've not given an example of anything 120vac that works. Whatever you used to plug into the pole, that worked, plug into an electrical outlet in the camper....does it work there?

It dawned on me that you said the fridge light came on. It does run on AC. Check the outlet and see what you have.

[kdorsett]

It did not work. I pushed the reset button on the outlet in the bathroom. It still didn't work.

[kdorsett]

When I say the fridge light came on... I mean I pushed the switch above the fridge to turn it on and it lit up. Not the light inside the fridge. I didn't check that.

[sourdough]

What kind of lights are on the fridge? Mine has a green and yellow. Green comes on solid if it is running on AC. The yellow lights under it if it's on LP. The yellow flashes if there is a problem with the LP. What is on, what color, what kind of fridge?

Also, do you have a radio? Will it come on? Will the TV? Exactly what happened when you blew the breaker?

[kdorsett]

Dometic fridge.... Turned it back on, light is yellow/orange. Made sure the LP button wasn't on. Lights inside fridge work as well

[sourdough]

What about the TV/radio etc.?

I am not familiar with current Dometic fridges. I am assuming you are pushing a button to turn it on and it is set for auto. I'm thinking that the light when set to auto and running on AC should be green....right? Does the yellow indicate you have AC failure?

[kdorsett]

Maybe the pic loads this time?

[kdorsett]

The radio works fine. I checked it.

[kdorsett]

I don't know what color the light should be. I just got it Monday, and haven't even taken it out yet. That's scheduled for Thursday.

[sourdough]

Top is thermostat for heating/cooling. Middle is the control for your Atwood HWH; left is AC power, right is LP. Bottom is for tank levels. Your HWH has both AC and LP turned off...good.

Those won't have anything to do with your current problem. Did you have any luck checking the TV/Radio?

[14george]

Check gfi outlets try test button if it trips you got power if it doesn’t you don’t

[sourdough]

From my memory of having Dometic fridges years ago and a quick check, I think your light should be green on the fridge if it was working on ac properly. It still sounds like you have lost AC.

What happened when the breaker blew...what was going on...what caused it?

You have 120vac/20A at the pole but have not verified that you have any power at the trailer. Did anything happen to the power cord? Where it plugs into the camper? Check, and if not, have you got a multimeter to check voltages at various locations?

[kdorsett]

Radio yes..... TV no

[14george]

I got dometic fridge green light working yellow something wrong

[kdorsett]

I think I've found the problem. The cord was melted to the adapter. I thought my husband had checked that, he thought I did. We are EXTREMELY lucky and blessed that we haven't had a fire.

[kdorsett]

I don't have a heavier weight cord to see if it messed anything up. We thought this one was heavy duty, but apparently it wasn't heavy duty enough. The investigation will continue tomorrow. Thank you all for your willingness to help. I will update when I check to see if it's permanently messed up. I pray this isn't an expensive lesson.

[sourdough]

You ARE very lucky. You will need to get another adapter AND a HEAVY duty cord. There are tables that tell you what gauge of wire in an extension cord you have to have for various voltages and lengths. How far are you from the power pole? It should not be more than 50' IMO. When plugged in at my house I use a 50' 12ga. extension cord - which is as light as I would want to go. Sounds like the heat generated from the draw got it at the plug/adapter instead of an appliance....hopefully. I suspect that once you replace the burned up items with appropriate items made to carry the loads you are placing on them you will be OK. Take heed to what I said about what you can run at one time previously - you are very limited with a 20A home plug and can either blow breakers or burn stuff up.....so be careful. Be aware that running the AC on a 20A circuit while running other things could place the AC running on less amps than it needs and shorten/hasten failure.

Let us know how it works out tomorrow.

[14george]

Glad you found the problem agree what sourdough said

[jhop_8]

Make sure and check the breaker in your home that is powering the outlet you are plugged in to.

[Phil Saran]

What nobody has said is you can go online and download and print the manuals you want. Some are from Keystone and others are from each manufacturer like Dometic.

Also you will be money ahead if you have an electrician install a dedicated 30 amp RV plug outside where you store your trailer if that is at home.

Phil Saran
Parker Colorado
2018 Keystone Cougar 5th wheel trailer
2012 Dodge Ram 3500 4x4

[Old Mustanger]

Just wanted to add my 2 cents .... IMO you should never run the AC or Microwave when connected to a 20 Amp service, that is just asking for trouble. :)

[JRTJH]

What nobody has said is you can go online and download and print the manuals you want. Some are from Keystone and others are from each manufacturer like Dometic.

Also you will be money ahead if you have an electrician install a dedicated 30 amp RV plug outside where you store your trailer if that is at home.

Phil Saran
Parker Colorado
2018 Keystone Cougar 5th wheel trailer
2012 Dodge Ram 3500 4x4

To add to Phil's post, if you do decide to hire an electrician to install a 30 amp outlet at home, be ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN that he understands this is NOT a 220 outlet like a dryer or electric range. It is a 110 outlet, typically unique to RV use and not commonly installed by electricians, so they often "mistake" your request and install the wrong voltage. If they do, you can "kiss most of your electrical equipment in the trailer, goodbye"......

[sourdough]

I'm wondering if the OP got the problem fixed. Hopefully the small gauge extension cord was the issue - and a warning to anyone trying to grab a "heavy duty" extension cord from Walmart then plugging their trailer in with it. Maybe they will post back with their results.

[68GS400]

Air conditioning draws 16+ amps and more at start up. Microwaves, hair dryers, Flat screen TV and water heater when in electric mode are other large AC power users. I’ve had to switch to propane for water when in Nebraska campground last year for AC was drawing 20+ amps in 90+ temp. All these are protected by breakers like in house
12VDC items include radio, water pump, refrig (when in gas mode), most interior lighting, slide, and tongue jack all fed by battery which is charged by inverter (120VAC=>12 12VDC)
We have Passport 2890RL which is similar

[slickster]

We just bought a 2012 Keystone Bullet. Had it plugged to shore power (regular outlet) this week to give a good cleaning. Everything worked great, initially. Yesterday the ac and clock on the microwave quit working. I can hear the AC click, but won't blow air. I've checked all of the fuses, and checked all of the breakers. Nothing seems to be wrong there. Slide out works fine. Any thoughts?

I am new at this also. But may I suggest contacting Keystone, with your registration in hand, and tell them your situation? They should be able to assist you. Just a thought.

[sourdough]

I am new at this also. But may I suggest contacting Keystone, with your registration in hand, and tell them your situation? They should be able to assist you. Just a thought.

Probably want to read the thread. It appeared the OP found their problem; using too small a gauge extension cord which melted.

[JRTJH]

I am new at this also. But may I suggest contacting Keystone, with your registration in hand, and tell them your situation? They should be able to assist you. Just a thought.

Additionally, contact your dealer, not Keystone..... Just as you wouldn't call GM's customer service to complain that your truck is blowing a fuse (you'd go to the dealer) it's the same with your travel trailer..... Your dealer is the initial point of contact. If you can't get satisfaction with the dealer, then contact Keystone (not for repair work) to report the problems with the dealer.

[LFord]

I am new at this also. But may I suggest contacting Keystone, with your registration in hand, and tell them your situation? They should be able to assist you. Just a thought.


Having tried the "contacting Keystone" bit myself several times, the usual response from Keystone is "contact your dealer" when inquiring about specific problems, which doesn't help that much when the selling dealer is distant, non-responsive, and perhaps not even a Keystone dealer if you've purchased a used unit. Keystone factory customer service would definitely NOT try to trouble-shoot this type of problem with you!



Keystone factory customer service will sometimes provide "generic" information common to the entire Keystone line or a specific model (e.g., Passports).


Just my .02 worth from experience.

[travelin texans]

While shopping for a heavy duty cord you need to also get a surge protector/EMS & be sure it's ALWAYS plugged in whether at home or any campground.
Just curious, you had to use some sort of adapter to connect your 30 amp into a 20 amp plug, hopefully it wasn't the hock puck looking adapter, they are notorious for overheating & melting (see photo).
16900
Need this type.
16901

[LZScout]

I can’t think of any RV I’ve ever run across that the air conditioner requires less than a 30 amp power source. Check the power panel inside the RV. It should contain fuses for the 12 volt DC devices and circuit breakers for the AC circuits. If there is a breaker in there labeled for Air Conditioner, and it’s bigger than 20 amp, you probably need at least a 30amp power source. You didn’t mention what power cord was attached to your unit. The plug end (check online for the differences between 20, 30, and 50 amp RV plugs. I once had a Coleman Popup tent camper that didn’t have air conditioning but was pre-wired for it. It had a 30 amp RV cord.

[bjansen]

This is a good forum for your questions. You might consider joining tge Facebook group called "Keystone Bullet Owners Group as well. It's a very active and friendly group for Bullet owners.

[Bob Landry]

Just wanted to add my 2 cents .... IMO you should never run the AC or Microwave when connected to a 20 Amp service, that is just asking for trouble. :)

No it's not. A 15KBTU AC will draw a little less than 15A, and will run fine by itself on a 20A circuit. Where most people get in trouble is using undersized cable for power cords.
The minimums are
15A #14
20A #12
30A #10
50A #6
These figures are good up to 50Ft. For a longer run go up a size.
Check the connectors on the cords and trailer periodically.If you see ANY darkening or discoloration, replace it. I've been in the marine repair industry long enough to tell you that electrical components is not where you want to cheap out.
Also stay away from the little hockey puck adapters.

[Bob Landry]

I can’t think of any RV I’ve ever run across that the air conditioner requires less than a 30 amp power source. Check the power panel inside the RV. It should contain fuses for the 12 volt DC devices and circuit breakers for the AC circuits. If there is a breaker in there labeled for Air Conditioner, and it’s bigger than 20 amp, you probably need at least a 30amp power source. You didn’t mention what power cord was attached to your unit. The plug end (check online for the differences between 20, 30, and 50 amp RV plugs. I once had a Coleman Popup tent camper that didn’t have air conditioning but was pre-wired for it. It had a 30 amp RV cord.

Look around and you will see plenty of them. Though the trailer is powered by 30A service, the circuit breaker for the AC is going to be 20A, therefore the AC only requires 20A if it is the only appliance in operation.

[kdorsett]

Thanks everyone for all of your help! That was the problem. Cord wasn’t heavy duty enough for what I was trying to do. We did our first camping trip this weekend and it all went well. Everything worked just fine, we were very lucky that I didn’t cause damage. By the way.... the light to show the fridge is on is orange on AC and it worked fine all weekend

[Electric Bill]

Can’t Romberg how many amps ac pulls if your trying to run ac hot water tank microwave at same time you could be overloading circuit It's about 16.1 amps on high cool (max). I've ran them off 20 amp generator circuits but nothing else can be ran such as micro-wave, electric water heater or anything with a good amount of current needed to run it.
Sounds like there's no AC power coming to RV. The clicking from thermostat relay and slide out room are running off 12 volt house battery. The thermostat uses 12 volts to control the furnace and relays are switching on the AC power to the aircondtioners fan & compressor circuits. So you ll hear the click of the relays when you got 12 volts but no AC shore power.
Check breaker box feeding your power cord at house. Plug something like a light into the outlet to verify that you have power there. Hope this helps.

[Electric Bill]

I think you need to verify that you actually have 120 volts shore power.
You need to check the breakers at your house. I doubt that theres any problems with the RV power system other than you've got no shorepower.