Low Water Pressue

[Awinkle]

In think my new Outback 250 URS has low water flow. With the good old gallon bucket I get 4.44 gpm at the hose end with filter and regulator attached. Inside the trailer I get 1.5 gpm at the sink with the strainer removed. Toilet seems to run with higher GPM but can't really check it. Tub about the same.
Pressure is 40 PSI at hose end and goes from 40 to 31 PSI in the trailer.

Is that normal? I can't find any specification that would tell me what to expect.

Would appreciate your thoughts and comments.

Alan

[chuckster57]

Welcome to the forum :wlcm:

In the few units that have come in for service with the same issue, the combination of both a regulator and a filter have caused low pressure. We removed the filter and the pressure was acceptable. Some filters are very restrictive, maybe it has a label with specs.

[sourdough]

What is the pressure at the faucet? If only 40psi forget the regulator. What kind of regulator is it? If it's the little cheap, straight regulator with the little orange knurled handle get rid of it and get a good, adjustable regulator with a gauge. The cheap regulator is a water restrictor no matter what you do and if you are using an inline water filter you very well may be choking the water pressure way down. Also, how old is the filter? How much have you used it? I replace mine frequently and for sure at the beginning of each season/long trip. They can, and will, cause a reduction in water pressure, sometimes clogging it completely.

[Awinkle]

Thanks for the quick reply. Actually I would be glad to get the flow and pressure I have at the hose end after the filter and regulator. It just seems something inside the trailer is restricting the flow. Either that or my expectations are too high. Thanks again.

[sourdough]

Is there any blockage inside the connection for the city water connection? The check valve inside that connector could be causing you a problem.

[chuckster57]

I’ve seen construction debris caught in the valves for the faucet too.

[JRTJH]

Debris in the valves is a possibility, but I'd first check the aerator/strainers. I have yet to see one that is "clean and unobstructed" on a new trailer after 2 or 3 hours of water use. Unscrew the faucet nozzle, disassemble the aerator, clean the screen, pay close attention to little "flecks in the holes" of the plastic aerator and reassemble. It may not help, but should be checked if there's decreased water flow at the faucet. Remember, there is a strainer/o-ring in the city water connection to keep the hose from leaking. That could be filled with debris as well.

[travelin texans]

16787
If you have this, toss it out & get one of these.
16788
This comes usually preset at 55 psi, doesn't increase low pressure, but will not affect flow if less than 55 psi.
You have 40 psi at the faucet, probably with a backflow preventer & connected to rv with another backflow preventer, which is about normal for most parks/campgrounds, but very low for residential faucets, they usually run 60-65 psi.
On your rv you most likely have incoming water going into one 1/2" Pex line with 5 or 6 or more 1/2" lines teeing off of it & maybe 3/8" opening in those tees, so I'd suspect you would lose 8 - 10 psi from the faucet to the to the sink with/without a filter.

[chuckster57]

John, he stated in the first post that the aerator was remove during the test. I missed it the first time, that’s why I poste later on about the valves. Just had it last month on a new unit during PDI. But then I’ve seen trash move months/years later.

[MarcS]

I know when I put an inline filter on the hose that goes to city water, the water flow is greatly reduced!

[JRTJH]

John, he stated in the first post that the aerator was remove during the test. I missed it the first time, that’s why I poste later on about the valves. Just had it last month on a new unit during PDI. But then I’ve seen trash move months/years later.

Yup, he sure did say "with the strainer removed".... I guess I need to start reading posts 2 or 3 times, eh??? Old eyes??? Nah, just not paying close enough attention..... :facepalm:

[Awinkle]

Thanks for the help everyone. To clarify, I'm getting over 60 psi at the faucet with 40 psi and about 4.4 gpm after the regulator and the filter - at the hose end that attaches to the trailer. In the trailer I get 1.5 gpm and the psi is 40 to start then drops rapidly to 30 psi. This about the same whether I'm on the city water or the pump. Frustrating. I would appreciate any wisdom you may have. Thanks.

[slow]

I had low flow at the kitchen faucet this last weekend. Others were fine. Turned out to be calcium and other mineral deposits build up on the plastic strainer at the faucet. Soaking the strainer in CLR (https://clrbrands.com/Products/CLR-Household/CLR-Calcium-Lime-Rust-Remover) took care of the issue.

Sounds like you may have some blockage, mechanical or deposit build up somewhere in you system. If you are confident it is not mechanical (check valve failure or some loose part), then running some CLR followed by a very thorough rinse may be an option to consider.

[Harleydodge]

From the description I think I would start with removing the lines at the pump and checking for debris/blockage. By your description it sure sounds like the problem starts there.

If not there, you might have to start chasing it up the lines, but hopefully not.
Definately sounds like a restriction somewhere though.

[JRTJH]

I've slept since my last response, so for me, it's a "NEW WORLD" LOL

Ok, thinking about it, if the low pressure is in BOTH the hot AND cold lines to the faucet, it's not in the hot water side. That eliminates hot water plumbing from the winterization valve through the hot water side and cold water lines from the winterization valve through the cold side. Further, it occurs both with the city water connection AND the pump, so that eliminates the City Water inlet and backflow valve.

What's left? the T to the water pump, lines from the T to the winterization valve. My guess would be a "folded over PEX line or a blockage somewhere from the junction where the water lines T at the city water inlet/water pump and before the winterization valve.....