City water filling holding tank

[Justus2]

Another season and I'm back. My 1996 Wilderness never gave me so many problems.

New issue. We hooked up the water for the first time this year and in a matter of an hour or two had filled the holding tank to the point where it was overfull and leaking from the tank vent at the back of the trailer.

Why is this happening?

Thank you.

[chuckster57]

If your city water connection looks like this:

http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1297355&msclkid=974a51b13c731d161ba10b5cf8690d67&cid=CAPLA:B:Shopping_-_Catch_All&utm_term=4582283428594338&bingpla=bingpla_982646&utm_campaign=Shopping%20-%20Catch%20All&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&k_clickid=629db91a-908e-4e79-adc2-ef375ed5c213&utm_content=Catch%20All

odds are the problem is at the water pump. There is a check valve inside the pump that stops water from flowing through the pump and into the fresh tank. Try cycling the pump a few times, if that doeant do the trick then your going to need to replace it.

If the city water connection is in a convenience center then odds are either the valve is turned the correct way or it has failed.

[Justus2]

It is in a convenience center(2014 Alpine 5th wheel 3010).

We figured part of it out. Hot water by pass was on and not hooked up (anode rod not in) for the season. We drained the tank, turned valve back to city and thought we had it.

I just heard dripping. Holding tank valve has been draining all afternoon. Basically running city water directly through to the holding tank and out the drain valve. It's like city is going to the tank. How can we fix this?

Thanks

[chuckster57]

That valve the hose hooks to is an “Anderson valve” I believe. Internal seals can fail and cause your issue. I’m not sure if the seals can be replaced, trekwood would probably have the valve or your nearest RV parts counter.

[Justus2]

I just ordered two replacement valves (one for spare) from RNO distributors for $24.99 + $10 shipping, and learned the new brass replacement valve is due out in August/September. I will get old off those when they come out too. No more rubber gaskets, all brass.

Thanks for all your help. If this doesn't do the trick I'll be back to ask for more help.

Have a great day!

[Justus2]

I'm back. We installed the replacement valve, holding tank said it was empty but in a matter if a couple hours the tank had filled 2/3.

Did we install it incorrectly?

Where did that missing black o ring go from the faulty valve we took out?

What else could it be?

We always use city water, we're parked permanently.

Thanks!

[travelin texans]

You're filling your tank due to the check valve, internal or ahead of suction, on your water pump. You can try running the pump to clear debris, take the pump apart to clean it out, might be valve on pump suction to close, which allows city water to flow through the pump filling your tank, worst case replace pump.
As for the city water connection (Anderson valve) regardless if it's plastic or brass rubber washers ARE required when connecting your hose. The check valve in the Anderson valve only opens inward to keep your onboard water from backing up & entering into the city water supply. Spares won't hurt to have, but doubt you will ever need it.

[Frank G]

I'm not sure there is a check valve in the Anderson 4 way Kant leak valve. They are famous for going bad due to the O-Rings. I have replaced mine twice in the first year. When they fail they allow water to bypass in the valve, filling the fresh water tank and or will not allow the pump to provide water from the holding tank. The pump will run constantly. I normally run on city and cringe every time I have to turn that D** thing.

[Frank G]

I'm back. We installed the replacement valve, holding tank said it was empty but in a matter if a couple hours the tank had filled 2/3.

Did we install it incorrectly?

Where did that missing black o ring go from the faulty valve we took out?

What else could it be?

We always use city water, we're parked permanently.

Thanks!

Install a valve in the fill line from the Valve to the Tank. Permanent fix, if you need water in the tank you can always open the valve, or fill through the overflow.

[Justus2]

Thank you.

We're running the pump with the tank water now to see if that helps.
Is the pump itself behind/close to the Anderson valve? I'm thinking we need to remove the temporary wall in the underneath storage area to get to it.

Is it difficult to replace a Shurflo pump (if we need to)?

Second suggestion:
How would we go about installing a valve in the fill line from the valve to the tank? What would we have to do in the fall when it comes time to winterize?

Thank you all for your help.

[Frank G]

Thank you.

We're running the pump with the tank water now to see if that helps.
Is the pump itself behind/close to the Anderson valve? I'm thinking we need to remove the temporary wall in the underneath storage area to get to it.

Is it difficult to replace a Shurflo pump (if we need to)?

Second suggestion:
How would we go about installing a valve in the fill line from the valve to the tank? What would we have to do in the fall when it comes time to winterize?

Thank you all for your help.

Yes you have to remove the temporary wall to access the pump and plumbing. Mine is a jumbled up mess of tubing and wiring (complements of Keystone).

I doubt you will have to replace the pump, mine ran dry for over 24 hours due to the bad Anderson valve and it still works fine.

The water tubing should be standard PEX tubing, 3/8 or 1/2 inch. I think you can get valves at the big box stores (Home Depot) with "Shark" push on fittings. Andersons website has the plumbing layout of the valve.

Even though My unit is up north at present it is going back to Florida mid October never to return again under my ownership. My solution to winterizing is to move south.