Andersen WDH Users. Help.

[KG29V]

Hi Everyone,

New to the forum here! We just picked up a 2018 Impact Vapor Lite 29v, and I'm having some issues with being pushed around on the road.

So the first two pulls that we made with the 29v it was in 25 to 30 mph crosswinds. During these times I expected to be pushed around quite a bit and we were. This morning we were pulling home from our first trip and the forecast estimated 5 to 10 mph cross which I was delighted to see. But to my surprise we were still pushed around from time to time, while passing flags that were hanging straight down...

Tow vehicle is a 2017 F250 Diesel, tires were aired up to max cold in the rear 80 psi, and 70 psi in the front. I'm using the andersen wdh with the 2.5 inch shank.

Looking for any tips or tricks with this hitch that will eliminate the push on the road. Trailer is not swaying, we are being pushed around as 1 unit. Or any advice at all would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

[ctbruce]

Is the hitch set up correctly and are you overloaded in the back end maybe?

[KG29V]

To the best of my knowledge yes it is. But I am going to double check all of that next weekend. Garage area is completely empty right now.

[theeyres]

I love my Andersen and it works great. My first guess is you are not tightening the nuts enough. Ignore any written advice because the number of threads is determined by both the tongue weight and how far the brackets are located from the ball. If you are tightening 3 threads try 5 or 6. Makes a huge difference. The other thing is tongue weight. Make sure you have enough by weighing it.

[busterbrown]

I believe that when it comes to pull behinds that are longer than 30 feet and are relatively heavy, sway is managed best by a 4pt friction hitch (like an Equal-i-zer) or a premium sway elimination hitch (like a Hensley or Propride). I owned a non-friction $500 Blue Ox Sway Pro hitch and it just dampened the effects of sway. My trailer is 35 feet long. Most Equalizer owners have great things to say about the performance of their friction hitches. The Hensley's and Propride's are a completely different breed of course.

[KG29V]

I have been using between 5 and 7 threads, but I am going to a scale this weekend to get the tongue weight.

[KG29V]

I believe that when it comes to pull behinds that are longer than 30 feet and are relatively heavy, sway is managed best by a 4pt friction hitch (like an Equal-i-zer) or a premium sway elimination hitch (like a Hensley or Propride). I owned a non-friction $500 Blue Ox Sway Pro hitch and it just dampened the effects of sway. My trailer is 35 feet long. Most Equalizer owners have great things to say about the performance of their friction hitches. The Hensley's and Propride's are a completely different breed of course.

Getting another hitch is an option. Most likely will be an equalizer if I can't get this andersen to work for me, just hate to have wasted 500 dollars on s hitch for nothing.

[cjm]

I have a 282BHSS - 32 1/2' overall and have no issue with my Andersen - in fact its the best hitch out of about 6 I've used over the years.

Use the following link for the scales:
http://towingplanner.com/ActualWeights/TravelTrailerCatScales/?w1sa=3240&w1da=4660&w1ta=5600&w2sa=3240&w2da=4660&w2ta=5600&w3sa=3220&w3da=3540&a=2

Then adjust your hitch to leave about 12-15% on your tongue.

[busterbrown]

Getting another hitch is an option. Most likely will be an equalizer if I can't get this andersen to work for me, just hate to have wasted 500 dollars on s hitch for nothing.

This is a good time of year to sell a hitch as camping season is about to roll into high gear. This is especially true if it's in like-new condition.

I was in the same predicament halfway through my first season with the trailer in my signature. Ended up and bit the bullet with the purchase of my Hensley. Now, I tow like I'm hitched to a fifth wheel and never worry about sway. My wife says the same while she's in the driver's seat. She would have never towed our rig with the Blue Ox.

[Jackitup]

I run the Anderson hitch, I pull my 27ft behind my 2017 F150 6-7 threads and it works like a charm. If you call Anderson they are very helpful great customer service.

[madmaxmutt]

If your trailer was 10K and you were pulling with an SUV, I might agree with a different hitch. In this case, an equalizer won't do anything but add more weight, and a great deal of noise to your travels. I have used my Andersen on two different trailers and two different trucks. I drove the F150 in high winds with one hand on top of the wheel without issue. The Super Duty should have no issue with it at all.

2 things I would check.

1. Make sure your trailer is level once W/D is tight. The new SD tends to have a great deal of rake. A (front) low trailer poses a problem with the Andersen lifting a hitch that is already tilted up at the rear. If the trailer is front low more than a inch front to rear, raise the hitch head.

2. Your springs should be just slightly barrel shaped when tight. If they are not, you probably are not tight enough. Just make sure you are straight (truck and trailer) before you check. That will make sure one hasn't been compressed while the other is expanded from a turn.

If your toys are lifting the front of the trailer, that could very well be the issue.

[cobiker]

Along with checking that you have about 10 to 15 percent of GTW on the ball. It's also important with the Anderson WDH to not have any grease inside the trailer coupling or on the ball. That would negate any benefits the friction lining that the ball assembly sits in from doing its thing.

I was using the Anderson with my Ram 3500 until we got our Raptor this year. Hope this helps.

[KG29V]

Thanks for all the tips! I will check out the setup this weekend and make any adjustments and report back my finds!

[LabRat]

Trailer is not swaying, we are being pushed around as 1 unit. Or any advice at all would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

This part of your statement leads me to believe that the hitch is setup correctly. I am not sure how any hitch can prevent you from being pushed around as 1 unit.

[KG29V]

Alright, so I got out today and took the trailer to the scales and I also compressed the bushings 9 turns. They were glossy and barrel shaped when the jack was lifted.

Truck sits dead level. Trailer sits slightly nose high, I only had a 450 lbs sportbike up against the front garage wall.

Truck weighed: steer: 4800, drive: 3000
Together steer: 4600, drive: 4300, trailer: 7600

Tough weight is either 1300 or 1100 depending on if you reduce by the change of the steer axle.

Towed it real quick down the highway, moderate cross wind 15mph, still pushed and pulled with gust and passing vehicles.

Not really sure what to do from here

[madmaxmutt]

Alright, so I got out today and took the trailer to the scales and I also compressed the bushings 9 turns. They were glossy and barrel shaped when the jack was lifted.

Truck sits dead level. Trailer sits slightly nose high, I only had a 450 lbs sportbike up against the front garage wall.

Truck weighed: steer: 4800, drive: 3000
Together steer: 4600, drive: 4300, trailer: 7600

Tough weight is either 1300 or 1100 depending on if you reduce by the change of the steer axle.

Towed it real quick down the highway, moderate cross wind 15mph, still pushed and pulled with gust and passing vehicles.

Not really sure what to do from here

Did you weigh it with the Andersen tight or the chains loose? I assume loose, by the way you wrote this.

You really need 3 weights. Truck alone, chains totally loose, and chains tight. That will tell you how much weight you are distributing and your tongue weight.

Your trailer should not be nose high. It should be nose low to level. Move the ball mount down one hole and try again.

[KG29V]

Chains were tight. Alright I'll give that a try this week.

[Scott902]

Imo, you seem a bit nose heavy, not enough tongue weight. Maybe you have it too tight? Can you adjust the hitch angle some? So the trailer is nose high?

[Bttravel]

I want to add something that hasn't been addressed yet. 2016 Ram 2500HD, Andersen hitch, Sprinter 35' at 10,000. Originally having to go 8 to 9 threads on adjustment and still a little more on the hitch than I liked plus it seemed a little loose on the road, windy days, passing semi's, etc. First thing I did was add Firestone air bags, set at 32psi, reduced threads to 5 and made a huge difference. Still didn't quite like the feel on the road at times. Trailer seemed to want to wander a little and curvy roads I could feel more from the trailer. Replaced the D range china bombs with the New Goodyears in E load range and Whoa!!! what a difference. Even the wife noticed and commented on how much smoother and better the unit felt on the road. Comparing the appearance of the tires, old vs new, inflated to max, you could see an immediate difference in how the tires sat. The D's had a noticeable radial bulge. Not on the new E's. I'm still amazed at the difference the tires made. Been towing TT's since 1985 and currently on my 6th one. Got it set up the way I want it now and tows great. Big winds wil push it some but nothing like it did.

[bbells]

I am not familiar with the Anderson weight distribution hitch. But my experience is that wdh's don't help stop the wind affect at all. You would actually need an anti-sway bar or 2 to have the affect you want. Sorry if you already have one.

[Jetset]

Call Andersen their customer service is awesome I use this hitch and it works great. I towed my 272!BHS Bullet with a 1500 Silverado and now a 2500 Silverado. YouTube has a lot of videos from Andersen to show how to set it up properly. Good Luck

[Scott902]

I am not familiar with the Anderson weight distribution hitch. But my experience is that wdh's don't help stop the wind affect at all. You would actually need an anti-sway bar or 2 to have the affect you want. Sorry if you already have one.

The Anderson hitch has anti-sway built into it. The ball mount has a material in it, that adds resistance to reduce sway

http://www.f150ecoboost.net/forum/attachments/39022d1437671658-andersen-hitch-anti-sway-issue-problem-photo-1.jpg

[KG29V]

Alright sorry for the delayed update but life happens. So took a 250 mile trip. Varilying conditions from calm to 10 to 20 mph crosswinds. At the start of the trip I lowered the hitch 1 hole and it did seem to help. Once we got into thr cross winds the push and sway was still there, so we stopped at a rest stop and I lowered the head down another hole. Trailer is now dead level as well as the truck. Initially it was great I thought I had finally fixed it and I could relax... winds kick up and it's now a tense 2 hour drive. Truck sway control kicked in once and I had my hands full a hand full of other times...

So I think I'm ready to pull the plug on this thing...
The friction material is start to extrude strangely as well after 2 trips, so I guess I'll have to get that replaced before selling it

[Kzneft]

You don't want this to happen !
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=siVH_cr5ZnE

[Kzneft]

My son in law had a similar problem. Main problem he had was his Equalizer hitch was just too small for his trailer. He bought a bigger one and the sway went away. Just something to think about.