Manual slide operation

[wiredgeorge]

Nothing wrong with the function of my slide but I can imagine a rainy break down and puddles under the slide and the thing doesn't retract so I can get home. I am asking how to manually retract the slide.

I received a Dewald Manufacturing Inc. Service Warranty Procedure manual with the RV when purchased. There is nothing on the slide itself to identify it. The serial number is 178-170062-40 and when I called Lippert (who now has taken over Dewald), they told me they don't keep track of serial numbers. The serial number was located on the motor.

The manual gave instructions for retracting the slide if no power. I quote,
" The hand pump is designed to retract the room in the event of a power failure. Make certain that any (or all) of the red knurled knobs are opern for the coils on the modular block(s) Make certain that the aluminum knurled knob is also open".

The pics of the motor / hydraulic unit are totally different than what I have on my RV. Can't find a hand pump OR knurled knobs.

How would I crank the slide in or out if done manually. Will post pics of motor, gear mechanism and what I believe to be hydraulic rams (not sure on last).

Never mind... found out how to do a hand crank job, if needed. The assembly doesn't appear to be hydraulic and on the back side of the motor is a shaft with nut welded to the end. I am guessing you crawl in a mud puddle and put a socket/ratchet on the nut and crank away. Anyway, hope this info helps someone else. Lippert customer support was, well it wasn't. They told me to call Keystone (thanks Lippert!).

[Steveo57]

I don't think you have a hydraulic slide. It's just the electric motor. Look on the end of the motor for a place to ratchet it manually.

Here's a link to the lippert manual for all kinds of stuff. You'll find a section in there on page 31 that shows a picture of how to do it for your model I think.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.lci1.com/assets/content/support/manuals/Master%2520Owners%2520Manual/Master_Owner_s_Manual___Full_Towable_27July17.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwjrioWglbXaAhWGA3wKHSFgD0MQFjABegQICBAB&usg=AOvVaw1vozYL3f-ZVBpfWvNnPNRG

[Carrottop]

It looks similar to an 2007 Jayco class c that I owned and mine did fail in San Francisco in the rain. There was a lever located near the motor that would disengage the gear and allow it roll freely I then attached my drill to rod end there was a tool for it and my 18v drill brought it in with my DW and kids giving it helping push, once retracted it stated to re engage the gear lock and put the travel bars on inside. Made it home no problem and had the motor replaced under warranty.

[Freeheel4life]

Wiredgeorge- My rig has the same set up and I had some problems with it while ski camping. I believe it was a 5/8" socket for the nut. I didn't have a cordless impact on me but wish I did. For each full revolution of the nut it correlates to a very small movement of the slide. Didn't time how long it took me to do it with my 3/8 ratchet handle, but it felt like a 1/2 hour long. Of course it was a sheet of ice in the parking lot. Thanks goodness I bring some pieces of pontoon vinyl carpet scraps. If I hadn't had it to lay on would it have been even more miserable.
Just to clarify as well, my problem turned out to be electrical, but had to pull slide in manually to get home.

[Tinner12002]

Nothing wrong with the function of my slide but I can imagine a rainy break down and puddles under the slide and the thing doesn't retract so I can get home. I am asking how to manually retract the slide.

I received a Dewald Manufacturing Inc. Service Warranty Procedure manual with the RV when purchased. There is nothing on the slide itself to identify it. The serial number is 178-170062-40 and when I called Lippert (who now has taken over Dewald), they told me they don't keep track of serial numbers. The serial number was located on the motor.

The manual gave instructions for retracting the slide if no power. I quote,
" The hand pump is designed to retract the room in the event of a power failure. Make certain that any (or all) of the red knurled knobs are opern for the coils on the modular block(s) Make certain that the aluminum knurled knob is also open".

The pics of the motor / hydraulic unit are totally different than what I have on my RV. Can't find a hand pump OR knurled knobs.

How would I crank the slide in or out if done manually. Will post pics of motor, gear mechanism and what I believe to be hydraulic rams (not sure on last).

Never mind... found out how to do a hand crank job, if needed. The assembly doesn't appear to be hydraulic and on the back side of the motor is a shaft with nut welded to the end. I am guessing you crawl in a mud puddle and put a socket/ratchet on the nut and crank away. Anyway, hope this info helps someone else. Lippert customer support was, well it wasn't. They told me to call Keystone (thanks Lippert!).

In lieu of possibly crawling in the mud, get a plastic sled to lay on if you have to work under one in inclement weather.

[wiredgeorge]

That sums up why I asked. I found the nut to turn and have a set of sockets. Can't use a drill on my rig as there is only 8 or 9 inches between the nut and the frame. Will have to use a ratchet wrench I guess.

[Freeheel4life]

I havent climbed back under my rig to try this out (which I should), but bought one of these and threw it in the tool kit for next time. I THINK it will allow enough drop to get in there with a power tool. My Makitas are real small too.
https://m.sears.com/craftsman-5-8-in-socket-6-pt-flex/p-00943265000P?sid=IDx01192011x1351488447&gclid=Cj0KCQjwh7zWBRCiARIsAId9b4rP8AQhp4Rjr2xvAMig y_BylgXk7d2OXFwz-KM3EXlpab1ew9cyi70aAkjgEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CPW13cXStdoCFZJ5Ygodl4YB7w

[JRTJH]

That sums up why I asked. I found the nut to turn and have a set of sockets. Can't use a drill on my rig as there is only 8 or 9 inches between the nut and the frame. Will have to use a ratchet wrench I guess.

On my Cougar, there is a 1/2" hole in the frame rail that is in line with the back of the slide motor. Slide a 12" 3/8" extension through the hole, put the motor adapter on the end and put the drill motor on the end of the extension. Awkward, but it beats using a ratchet and spending all day to move the slide 12". You should find that hole in the frame rail, and if not, that's a good reason to buy a new high speed 1/2" drill bit.

[wiredgeorge]

On my Cougar, there is a 1/2" hole in the frame rail that is in line with the back of the slide motor. Slide a 12" 3/8" extension through the hole, put the motor adapter on the end and put the drill motor on the end of the extension. Awkward, but it beats using a ratchet and spending all day to move the slide 12". You should find that hole in the frame rail, and if not, that's a good reason to buy a new high speed 1/2" drill bit.

No hole in the frame. It would also require a hole in the fender skirt.

[JRTJH]

On my Cougar, there is adequate room between the frame rail and the skirt (about 18") to position a battery driven drill/impact wrench. Yours may be different, but there is usually a means to apply power without using hand tools. Heck, even using a universal joint and angling an extension a few degrees to attach a drill driver beats a hand driven attempt when laying in the dirt under a trailer.

[JRTJH]

Here's a picture of the way I set up my impact wrench. There's more than enough room on my trailer between the frame rail and the skirting. Also, here's a photo of the way a Keystone competitor solved the problem.

[Sailor Jerry]

Thanks for the information. It’s really hard to tell on mine because the underneath is completely sealed. The people before us sealed the bottom because they used it all winter up here in Alaska. So it’s hard to find anything underneath the trailer

[Sailor Jerry]

Hmmmm thanks I don’t see a hole like that on the side of my cougar but will look again to make sure