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waltheraustin
03-15-2018, 10:07 AM
I have an adapter that Ts off Fords factory wires that gives me the 7 wires to attach to the 7 way plug. Anyone know what Ford's late model wire colors reference?

Thanks in advance!

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notanlines
03-15-2018, 11:04 AM
Here you go.

JRTJH
03-15-2018, 11:48 AM
The Ford SuperDuty Owner's Manual has the color code for the 7 way connector listed in a figure. In my 2015 OM, it's on page 196. Here's what's listed in my OM:
Color Function
Yellow Left turn signal and stop lamp
White Ground (-)
Blue Electric brakes
Green Right turn signal and stop lamp
Orange Battery (+)
Brown Running lights
Grey Reverse lights

Colors may have changed from your year model to mine, so checking the Owner's Manual would give you accurate information.

waltheraustin
03-15-2018, 12:04 PM
Thanks a ton!!

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JRTJH
03-15-2018, 12:10 PM
I just noticed when reading your last post, the colors on the trailer umbilical cable are not the same as Ford's wiring color. Specifically, in the trailer umbilical, yellow is for the backup lights (at least on my 2014 Cougar XLite), so depending on if you're under the truck looking or at the trailer wiring connectors on the trailer looking..... You probably will find a difference in colors.... BEWARE !!!!! LOL

waltheraustin
03-15-2018, 12:30 PM
I just noticed when reading your last post, the colors on the trailer umbilical cable are not the same as Ford's wiring color. Specifically, in the trailer umbilical, yellow is for the backup lights (at least on my 2014 Cougar XLite), so depending on if you're under the truck looking or at the trailer wiring connectors on the trailer looking..... You probably will find a difference in colors.... BEWARE !!!!! LOLSo is it going to cause issues to try different cable combos until I get it right? As long as I match to what the 7 way plug references to what Ford has, I should be home right? Factory 7 ways have to work with all trailers or do they?

Beware has me nervous

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JRTJH
03-15-2018, 12:38 PM
The pin position will be correct and "is supposed to work with all trailers"... So you should be OK if you physically connect/wire each pin position on the trailer with the same pin position on the truck connector. (use the truck as the "key" and change the trailer to work with the way the truck is wired)

My last comment was in reference to the Ford color coded wire for reverse lights (gray) and Keystone's color coded wire for reverse lights (yellow). No matter what color the wire in the trailer umbilical is, if it's connected to the correct pin on the truck's plug, it will work. Just remember that "gray turns to yellow" for reverse lights. You may find other color changes as well, and then, you may not find any other changes.... Just pay attention to "what plugs in what position on the truck" and you'll be fine.

waltheraustin
03-15-2018, 12:49 PM
The pin position will be correct and "is supposed to work with all trailers"... So you should be OK if you physically connect/wire each pin position on the trailer with the same pin position on the truck connector. (use the truck as the "key" and change the trailer to work with the way the truck is wired)

My last comment was in reference to the Ford color coded wire for reverse lights (gray) and Keystone's color coded wire for reverse lights (yellow). No matter what color the wire in the trailer umbilical is, if it's connected to the correct pin on the truck's plug, it will work. Just remember that "gray turns to yellow" for reverse lights. You may find other color changes as well, and then, you may not find any other changes.... Just pay attention to "what plugs in what position on the truck" and you'll be fine.Ok, thanks! Reason I ask if I'm going to blow anything up if I wired based on color yesterday which caused some weird stuff like brake causing running lights to come on so trying to figure out if I broke something. Thanks again for the help!! Appreciate it!

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JRTJH
03-15-2018, 12:59 PM
No, you "shouldn't" blow anything up. All of the truck's wiring is protected by a fuse, so no damage you can do to the truck. If the trailer is connected to the truck, the worst that could happen is you "short a circuit to ground" and the truck's fuses will protect the trailer as well.

It sounds like you "re-wired" some things yesterday. If you rewired the truck, then you need to follow the diagram that notanlines posted above, if you rewired the trailer, I think the best bet now, would be to use a jumper pin, identify each circuit on the trailer connector and write down what is what on the trailer end, then connect it to match the truck end. You should wind up with a correctly wired truck and trailer that matches the diagram above. Colors are "nice to have to identify a circuit" but should not be the determining factor. The position on the connector is what "must match" the function of the wire...... GOOD LUCK :)

waltheraustin
03-15-2018, 01:23 PM
No, you "shouldn't" blow anything up. All of the truck's wiring is protected by a fuse, so no damage you can do to the truck. If the trailer is connected to the truck, the worst that could happen is you "short a circuit to ground" and the truck's fuses will protect the trailer as well.

It sounds like you "re-wired" some things yesterday. If you rewired the truck, then you need to follow the diagram that notanlines posted above, if you rewired the trailer, I think the best bet now, would be to use a jumper pin, identify each circuit on the trailer connector and write down what is what on the trailer end, then connect it to match the truck end. You should wind up with a correctly wired truck and trailer that matches the diagram above. Colors are "nice to have to identify a circuit" but should not be the determining factor. The position on the connector is what "must match" the function of the wire...... GOOD LUCK :)Roger that, thanks!! Feeling better about the trip already. It's a newish used truck that was a rental that had the hitch removed at some point so I'll try again!

Thanks again!!!!

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waltheraustin
03-15-2018, 03:54 PM
I got all but power in the trailer (lights inside) and running lights. Crap

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JRTJH
03-15-2018, 04:06 PM
There are two fuses in the "high voltage distribution box" under the hood. Check your owner's manual for which specific fuses and the location. On mine, they are fuse 26 for running lights (called parking lamps in the OM) and fuse 90, trailer tow charge line. There are also some relays for the running lights, but chances are the relays are good. Fuses may have been blown when removing the hitch and wiring, (or never installed when the truck was put in service). Let us know if you get it working or if you need more "verbal help" :cool:

madmaxmutt
03-15-2018, 05:44 PM
If you are asking for the Ford wiring colors, they are at the bottom of this page by manufacturer. https://www.etrailer.com/faq-wiring.aspx

If you are trying to add a 7 pin adapter to your truck (where there was none before), I would recommend just buying the ford harness (jumper) and plug. It plugs in to most every truck I have ever seen right above the spare tire.

waltheraustin
03-15-2018, 05:55 PM
I should've bought that I'm hindsight. Got it working but the etrailer bracket is crap and wouldn't fit. I'll have to go back and redo that but I got the lights to work.

Truck is acting weird after unhooking the battery to work on it. It did this last night to. First start after hooking up the battery. Rad fan run on high until I kill it. Next start is fine. The check engine light came on too. I used forscan to check it and I don't recall what it was. Should've took a pic but used forscan to clear it. It didn't come back. Never had a vehicle act like that after unhooking the battery. There was a buzzing when the battery was unhooked. Doing stuff like that makes me nervous

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madmaxmutt
03-15-2018, 06:33 PM
I should've bought that I'm hindsight. Got it working but the etrailer bracket is crap and wouldn't fit. I'll have to go back and redo that but I got the lights to work.

Truck is acting weird after unhooking the battery to work on it. It did this last night to. First start after hooking up the battery. Rad fan run on high until I kill it. Next start is fine. The check engine light came on too. I used forscan to check it and I don't recall what it was. Should've took a pic but used forscan to clear it. It didn't come back. Never had a vehicle act like that after unhooking the battery. There was a buzzing when the battery was unhooked. Doing stuff like that makes me nervous

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Removing the battery resets many of the electronic controls. The newer the truck the more of those there are. You basically did a KAM reset.

waltheraustin
03-15-2018, 06:53 PM
Is it basically advised to just do the work and not to m touch the battery?

Is that bad or no hopefully?

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JRTJH
03-15-2018, 06:59 PM
It's not "bad" but your truck computer system has returned to the "generic Ford settings" and it will take some time for it to learn your driving habits and reset the computer to adapt the vehicle to your specific driving style....

In other words, what you did was "reboot everything" and doing so "lost" all of your settings. In a way, if you've never done that before and it's a used vehicle, it may be a "good thing" in that now the truck will "adapt itself to your style of driving" and "forget" all those bad habits it learned from being a rental truck......

You may notice some difference in how the truck responds to your driving for the next week or so. After it "learns your style" it will respond differently than it will tomorrow morning.

waltheraustin
03-15-2018, 07:13 PM
So tossing on Saturday May be out of the question? I'll put 60 miles on it tomorrow

Thanks again man

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JRTJH
03-15-2018, 07:26 PM
Tossing? If you mean leaving on Saturday to tow the trailer, that shouldn't be a problem. The transmission may do some strange shifts (in tow haul hopefully) for the first few miles. After that, it should smooth out and get better and better. By the time you get back, it'll be "smooth sailing" for the rest of the summer (unless you remove the battery again) :facepalm:

madmaxmutt
03-15-2018, 07:32 PM
Tossing? If you mean leaving on Saturday to tow the trailer, that shouldn't be a problem. The transmission may do some strange shifts (in tow haul hopefully) for the first few miles. After that, it should smooth out and get better and better. By the time you get back, it'll be "smooth sailing" for the rest of the summer (unless you remove the battery again) :facepalm:

I think maybe his spellcheck helped him correct 'towing'. :)

waltheraustin
03-15-2018, 07:42 PM
That's my new term for towing. Tossing..

Lol, thanks guys!

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vampress_me
03-15-2018, 07:47 PM
In other words, what you did was "reboot everything" and doing so "lost" all of your settings. In a way, if you've never done that before and it's a used vehicle, it may be a "good thing" in that now the truck will "adapt itself to your style of driving" and "forget" all those bad habits it learned from being a rental truck......


Is this just a Ford thing or do all the big 3 do it? Drives me bonkers when there are 2 of us that drive the vehicle (3 if you include the one with a permit :eek:) and have 2 different styles of driving. Dang vehicle gets confused and shifts like junk for the first while of driving. I wish you could select the person driving like it has our seat preferences memorized by button.

JRTJH
03-15-2018, 08:24 PM
Lynette,

I really can't say about the "other two" but Fords are notorious for "changing settings with different drivers".... Every time I get in the DW's Escape, I want to hang a foot out to help it get going, and until we drive 20-30 miles, it seems like an "old mare that wants to go back to the barn".... After it realizes it's not her driving, it perks up and acts "normal" (well as normal as a V-6 can act) LOL

flybouy
03-16-2018, 05:00 AM
Is this just a Ford thing or do all the big 3 do it? Drives me bonkers when there are 2 of us that drive the vehicle (3 if you include the one with a permit :eek:) and have 2 different styles of driving. Dang vehicle gets confused and shifts like junk for the first while of driving. I wish you could select the person driving like it has our seat preferences memorized by button.

Back in 2000 bought a Chevy truck. Battery only lasted 2 years and after replacing the truck barely ran, stalling if the accelerator wasn't depressed. The trans shifted like a teenager learning to drive a stick. I drove it 2 footed for a few miles until stopping for coffee as I thought I might be spending some time on the side of the road waiting for a tow. Came out, restarted and truck ran fine. The computer had to relearn everything including the throttle position sensor. We had an extended warranty so called the dealer and was informed it was "normal" and that the mechanics used a 9 v battery with a cig lighter plug on the end to provide enough electricity to retain the memory while a battery was disconnected.So no it's not just a Ford thing, at Chevy had a similar set up 18 years ago.