XFactors

[BSHGTO]

We go to a camp on a regular bases (Lake Raystown) and I have to do a REAL tight turn to back in our favorite spot, almost 90 degrees and when I get out to check my position mid turn I've noticed my wheels are bent outwards to the point that it scares me. This was with my last camper a High Country. So now that I have a real heavy beast for a camper I was thinking the rotational forces would be even greater on the wheels, axles and frame. Going to this camp soon when the weather breaks I thought I should nip the potential problem in the bud before it becomes a problem like the guy below that twisted his spring preaches and frame to the point of destruction. Given that the materials are no different on the new unit, same cheap springs, axles , wheels and frames by Lippert but with heavy duty Sailuns now with sidewalls the strength of Hercules, that aren't going to flex an inch to help the situation.
So what to do? Install Morryde XFactors, proven to help.
Called Morryde to talk to an engineer about the compatibility of the new Road Armor equalizer with the XFactors. He said ALL large campers should have this or some thing like it installed from the factory. I mentioned the fact that most new heavy campers are coming with tires with much stronger sidewalls, he said yep that would be the reason to do it. The tires won`t move so the frame will.
Ordered them up $265.00 for 3 sets one for each spring perch, 3 days to the door step, 1 ½ hours to put on. Now the grinding and twisting from any degree turn will be minimized. Saved the frame?.....Maybe……. Wasted my dollars……. maybe……..Can't hurt.

[BSHGTO]

This goes with the post above on the flexing issue. Watch the video at the beginning then move to the 2:59 mark and watch the frame and the spring perches move around.




https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bp5iRVPwYZg&feature=youtu.be

[sourdough]

This is not meant to be smarta##d remark but I don't think I would have a "favorite" spot that required me to kick it to 90 degrees on a regular basis. I've done it, I've watched the stress on the trailer and the tires get way out of whack so I choose not to do it unless totally necessary. I don't think with the way a trailer is built and with the geometry of the suspension that you can't help but wear/bend components way too fast over time trying to push all the components sideways instead of going straight. JMO

[BSHGTO]

yep, pull through sites are great and are my first choice if the camp has them but not always available, Army Corps of Engineers utilizes every sq. foot they can in their designs of campgrounds around lakes and dams so no pull through at my favorite lake. You have to deal with the cards your dealt if you want the exceptional scenery they provide in their parks.

[sourdough]

I agree, COE campgrounds tend to maximize their "space" and I've never been to one where the best spots were pull through - if they had them. On the other hand, I've never been to one where the nicest spots all required a 90 degree push to get in. Just food for thought. Good luck on the mod.

[trucker LOU]

If it is possible to wet the pavement before you back in the tires will slide some and not put as much side load on the suspension.----Lou----

[Tinner12002]

Interesting video, with the hanger system that was on that RV he definitely needed the cross bracing being the spring eye being so far away from the attachment point of the hangers, a whole lot of leverage can happen on the hangers with that system or any system like it that moves the spring eye away from the top of the hanger in my opinion. Most hangers are welded to the bottom beam flange which also lets the hanger flex. Lippert uses a little piece of metal welded on an angle to help with beam flexing but the proper way to do it is with a full gusset welded in from flange to flange on both sides of the I-beam, like I pictured on the left side of the beam pic, where the hangers are attached. Boxing in the outer end of the hangers would also help. Tried to enclose a drawing, hopefully understandable.

[BSHGTO]

I agree, COE campgrounds tend to maximize their "space" and I've never been to one where the best spots were pull through - if they had them. On the other hand, I've never been to one where the nicest spots all required a 90 degree push to get in. Just food for thought. Good luck on the mod.

I said almost 90 degree but of course this is just an estimate and I didn`t say all either. But the camp we like to go to in Myrtle beach ALL the spots that back up to the lake are 90 degree about 20 out of maybe a 1000 spots. Even if you book a year in advance your lucky to get one. Just food for thought.

[Dave W]

BSHGTO and I had this discussion on another site.

As a caution to others considering this mod, I've put an X factor on the center hanger but have interference at the other two hangers - the gas line on the front and the galley tank drain on the rear hangers. Since I'll be doing other work on the suspension, will be rerouting the gas line then making up my own design hanger brace for the rear. Also. be aware that you have to replace the hanger bolt with their supplied wet bolt.

A personal comment here - these X Factor cross members would be better if they were main trailer frame supported but then you might need a heavier hanger. This design will at least dampen some of the flex ( I sure wish these current trailers had a heavy forged hanger like my long gone Kountry Aire had)

[sourdough]

I said almost 90 degree but of course this is just an estimate and I didn`t say all either. But the camp we like to go to in Myrtle beach ALL the spots that back up to the lake are 90 degree about 20 out of maybe a 1000 spots. Even if you book a year in advance your lucky to get one. Just food for thought.


I wish you luck in getting the one you like best.:)

[DavidAndDonna]

Interesting video, with the hanger system that was on that RV he definitely needed the cross bracing being the spring eye being so far away from the attachment point of the hangers, a whole lot of leverage can happen on the hangers with that system or any system like it that moves the spring eye away from the top of the hanger in my opinion. Most hangers are welded to the bottom beam flange which also lets the hanger flex. Lippert uses a little piece of metal welded on an angle to help with beam flexing but the proper way to do it is with a full gusset welded in from flange to flange on both sides of the I-beam, like I pictured on the left side of the beam pic, where the hangers are attached. Boxing in the outer end of the hangers would also help. Tried to enclose a drawing, hopefully understandable.

I see this is an old thread however, your beam support is right on.
What would be the downside to just weld tubes to the spring hangers rather than bolt?
I see the X-Factor bolts atop of the spring hanger and the main stress of the hanger is the bolt running thru spring, ewhich is below.
Seems a tube welded solid to the spring hanger would be a better way to go?

Any inut?

[DavidAndDonna]

This is not meant to be smarta##d remark but I don't think I would have a "favorite" spot that required me to kick it to 90 degrees on a regular basis. I've done it, I've watched the stress on the trailer and the tires get way out of whack so I choose not to do it unless totally necessary. I don't think with the way a trailer is built and with the geometry of the suspension that you can't help but wear/bend components way too fast over time trying to push all the components sideways instead of going straight. JMO


What would be the downside to just weld tubes to the spring hangers rather than bolt?
I see the X-Factor bolts atop of the spring hanger and the main stress of the hanger is the bolt running thru spring, which is below.
Seems a tube welded solid to the spring hanger would be an easier and faster mod?
seems one could cut out the bottom of the tube wall to access the spring hanger bolt.
Your thoughts?

[Javi]

What would be the downside to just weld tubes to the spring hangers rather than bolt?
I see the X-Factor bolts atop of the spring hanger and the main stress of the hanger is the bolt running thru spring, which is below.
Seems a tube welded solid to the spring hanger would be an easier and faster mod?
seems one could cut out the bottom of the tube wall to access the spring hanger bolt.
Your thoughts?
My first thought would be that once you welded the braces to the hangers you would have to cut them off to replace or repair anything above them such as holding tanks.

Just a thought...

[JRTJH]

I agree with Javi. The X-Factor cross braces are designed to be removeable. That makes the space above the axles and suspension accessible for work or repairs. If you've ever pulled the coroplast from that area, just having the axles 10-12 inches below is an obstacle that's frustrating to manage. Having cross braces 2" below the coroplast would make getting it off "impossible without more profanity than "nice words"....

I don't see any way to get into the belly in that area without cutting "welded cross braces" off the spring hangers.

[DavidAndDonna]

My first thought would be that once you welded the braces to the hangers you would have to cut them off to replace or repair anything above them such as holding tanks.

Just a thought...

I wouldn't be doing a repair like that however, valid point.
bolt on would be better in that respect.
looks like the plates on the end of the Xfactor are about 3/8" thick. A doable fab mod

[DavidAndDonna]

I wouldn't be doing a repair like that however, valid point.
bolt on would be better in that respect.
looks like the plates on the end of the Xfactor are about 3/8" thick. A doable fab mod


FYI here's Dexter Axle solution to spring hanger reinforcement.
https://www.dexteraxle.com/user_area/content_media/raw/2020-03_059-203-00_HangerandAPInstructionSheet.pdf