Keystone BHS330 Furnace

[ksd]

I just purchased a 2018 Keystone Bullet 330BHS. The furnace is located in the rear of the TT in the bunkroom. When turned on, the floor register is so hot that it burnt my daughter's foot when she stepped on it and the room is so hot it's uncomfortable to be in there for long periods of time. However, the rest of the TT is really cold. You can feel some warmth coming through the floor register in the kitchen, but in the master the air is running cold. Do I have a setting wrong? Any ideas?

[busterbrown]

A good read that may give you some insight into your heat distribution problems...

http://www.keystoneforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31402&highlight=heat+ducts

[ksd]

Thank you for your reply. I will try those things out and post a response about the results.

[ksd]

We tried everything in the thread that BusterBrown sent and, while it is a little warmer in front now, the bunkhouse is still nearly uninhabitable when the furnace is on. Any other suggestions?

[Ksupaul]

Look for a controllable floor vent to replace the back vent with? Force air to other areas?

[ctbruce]

Get a plastic vent to protect the tootsies. If you get one with louvers, then you can close it off. You may need to look to see if all the vents are actually connected to the registers.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

[chuckster57]

You have to be careful when restricting flow of hot air. It may cause the “limit” switch to shut off the gas flow to the furnace before it warms the rest of the coach. I say try it and see.

[busterbrown]

If the temperature variance between the bunk, living area, and bedroom is that extreme, I would consider taking it back to your selling dealer and having them inspect it. I own a 35 foot Bullet with a similar length and the heat distribution among the "zones" is comfortable. As our bunkhouse is furthest from the furnace, we occasionally set up a small space heater (set to low) for our 3 boys as the temp is about 5 degrees cooler inside that room when the bunk door is closed. And this is only happens during the coldest of nights. Otherwise, the furnace runs us out of the camper within 10 minutes.

To me though, it reads like you're experiencing an obstruction or separation in duct work in the underbelly. The dealer may have to drop the coroplast and investigate further. With it being a new coach (I presume under warranty), I would utilize that bumper to tongue factory warranty.

From an online video, I just realized that the furnace in your 330 coach is located on driverside at the rear of your coach, adjacent to the bunk beds. This makes me believe that it really is faulty duct work, as the heated air isn't making its way forward effectively. Again, being new, a trip to the dealer is warranted.

[ksd]

We got a plastic one...it melted - literally. Taking it back to the dealership tomorrow. Hopefully they can fix it quickly.

[ksd]

Yes, the furnace is by the bunk beds on the driver side. We are taking it to the dealer tomorrow. I will let you know if you were right when they get to it. :)

[Ksupaul]

We got a plastic one...it melted - literally. Taking it back to the dealership tomorrow. Hopefully they can fix it quickly.

Ouch that sucks. Please let us know how it turns out. There are others like you out there.

[ksd]

Get a plastic vent to protect the tootsies. If you get one with louvers, then you can close it off. You may need to look to see if all the vents are actually connected to the registers.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

We tried a metal one that had plastic louvers and it melted. Rear vent is horribly hot!

[ctbruce]

I see you're taking it back to the dealer. Be sure to post what they find. Others have mentioned this and I lot of us we t yo understand what's happening and why. Good luck.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

[ksd]

After having the camper for a few hours, this is the conclusion to our furnace issue:
"Vent in the bunkhouse is literally within a few feet of the farnace. RV forced air ducts are not diverted like residential forced air. All RV forced air will go to the path of least resistance. Therfore, the bunkhouse register will get the largest amount of airflow and heat. Took temps at all registers and confirmed air flow at all vents working to specs options for customer. Temp at the bunkhouse register 220 F and all others 99 F. Working to specs options for customers. Buy an all metal register that will shut off air flow, this will produce a hot register and will have to be avoided with bare feet (Note: this register is literally in the middle of the floor where the ladder to the upper bunk comes down as well as where one would exit the lower bunk and enter the 2nd bathroom!). To avoid that, only option would be to put insulation in register hole and fabricate a metal divertor for the hole. This is not covered by Keystone."

So, basically no real resolution - but notice the drastic difference in temps between the bunkhouse register and the other registers. Any thoughts or suggestions after the dealer's service comments above?

[JRTJH]

You obviously don't need that much heat flow in the bunkhouse, so would it be possible to disconnect that register, reroute the ducting to the other vents and then construct a 2" duct from the original duct back to the bunkhouse register? That way you'd reduce the air flow and resulting heat to that register by about 2/3 of what it currently gets.

[ksd]

You obviously don't need that much heat flow in the bunkhouse, so would it be possible to disconnect that register, reroute the ducting to the other vents and then construct a 2" duct from the original duct back to the bunkhouse register? That way you'd reduce the air flow and resulting heat to that register by about 2/3 of what it currently gets.
We thought about that, too, and are going to look into it to see if it can be done without voiding our warranty. Thank you for your reply.