Axle Equalizer Manufacturer 32RLI

[MVBrown]

Does anyone know the Manufacturer of the Equalizer that goes between the springs on this beast? I have a new 2018 Cougar 32RLI with Dexter axles, but I cannot identify the Equalizer that is used on this TT. Dexter told me to get the numbers off the part, but it was not a Dexter number that they could match up.

[Brentw]

Those are a common suspension component, etrailer or a decent suspension repair shop will have the parts. There really are not to many varieties unless you get into an upgraded style like moryde or ezee flex. But regardless, the pin to pin measurements will only have a few variations for trailer axles of rv sizes. Do some measurements and check online or a shop. There is lots of info in etrailer q&a sections under equalizers.

[JRTJH]

Keystone's brochure for 2018 Cougar Half Ton travel trailers has a picture of the "Road Armor Suspension system" that they say is installed in all their travel trailers. That system is built by Lippert. You can find some information here: https://www.lci1.com/road-armor%E2%84%A2

If this is not the suspension system that's on your trailer, maybe a photo would help us identify what you have.....

[MVBrown]

Actually the Road Armor, which I tried to get installed at the factory, is an OEM part that is only put on 5th wheels. Mine is (unfortunately) a TT. Dexter advised me to take some measurements, and choose a suitable replacement that will minimize the road shock. And after looking at some photos I took I noticed that the mounting plate has what clearly looks like the LCI symbol on it. - Thanks!

[JRTJH]

The Mor Ryde CRE 3000 system is what came on my Cougar in 2014. It's been "flawless" and works much better than a "iron equalizer"... Here's one place to get information on that system. http://www.dyersonline.com/mor-ryde-cre-3000-33-inch-wheelbase-tandem-axle.html?utm_medium=shoppingengine&utm_source=googlebase&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIvtLT_sGm2QIVhYp-Ch3K3QeREAQYAyABEgKS0vD_BwE

Price is extremely reasonable at about $130.....

[MVBrown]

Thanks for the info! I am most likely going to go with an LCI Equa-Flex. Since it looks like I have parts of an LCI setup.

[Tinner12002]

Thanks for the info! I am most likely going to go with an LCI Equa-Flex. Since it looks like I have parts of an LCI setup.

They are all for the most part interchangeable. Dexter makes a nice rubber cushioned equalizer that will fit in the LCI bracket where you see the symbol. It comes with or without a wet bolt kit which, if your going to tear into the susp, would be a great time to upgrade to the wet bolt system. Either brand will work. Here's a link to a similar kit,

https://www.ebay.com/itm/DEXTER-E-Z-Flex-reg-Tandem-Equalizer-Suspension-Kit-K71-653-00/251631237246?hash=item3a9663f87e:g:pG8AAOSwdLJZcQB L&vxp=mtr

Or just the equalizers I list below, this is probably the ones you need for your RV for up to 6K axle....but not from this co as they have them way over priced...lol

https://www.ebay.com/itm/DEXTER-K71-654-00-Equalizer-and-Bolt-Kit-Tandem-1-Pack/112659313100?hash=item1a3b04b1cc:g:27MAAOSwnTdaG4p b&vxp=mtr

[Tinner12002]

Actually by looking at your pic, I'm thinking this would be the kit you would use but you need to measure the hole spacing on your stock equalizer and email the company to make sure. I think this is the same kit I used on my 6K axles on my other RV.
https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Suspension/Dexter-Axle/K71-652-00.html

[travelin texans]

I would recommend the Dexter kit with the heavy shackles & wet bolts if your going to replace the equalizer anyway, just upgrade all of it, 1 less worry.

[MVBrown]

Thanks! I actually like the Robust look of the Dexter plus the additional zerk fittings on top. The Equa-Flex looks nice, but the Dexter looks beefier.

[MVBrown]

Thanks! I was looking at a different Dexter number, but now I see the one that you referenced is correct.

[Tinner12002]

Thanks! I was looking at a different Dexter number, but now I see the one that you referenced is correct.

Great, but I would still get measurements on yours if you haven't already, and email them just to make sure, the wrong on won't do much good.

[MVBrown]

Oh, yes! I think I have taken every conceivable measurement there is. Plus talked to both companies about their dimensions. I really wanted the LCI's but I saw an imagine of one that had failed after only a few years. Now granted I am a weekend warrior not a full timer, and I don't know how many miles were put on the ones that failed. But the fact that the LCI's are hinged with the aluminum arm at a critical location worries me.

P.S. From what I have currently measured the Dexter looks perfect as far as travel and fit.

[Tinner12002]

Oh, yes! I think I have taken every conceivable measurement there is. Plus talked to both companies about their dimensions. I really wanted the LCI's but I saw an imagine of one that had failed after only a few years. Now granted I am a weekend warrior not a full timer, and I don't know how many miles were put on the ones that failed. But the fact that the LCI's are hinged with the aluminum arm at a critical location worries me.

P.S. From what I have currently measured the Dexter looks perfect as far as travel and fit.

Check your shackle length also if your going with the wet bolt kit as I think there are about 3 different lengths available. Glad I was able to help. That's why were all here, to help each other!

[MVBrown]

Thanks for that last bit of info. I completely forgot to measure the shackle length, and from my photo. It appears to be longer than what is in the kit I am getting.

[Tinner12002]

They are measured from center of hole to center of hole...give or take a little as their not exact from one size to another.

[MVBrown]

So after doing some more measuring, and looking at pictures, and thinking. I realized that the shackles that come with the Dexter kit (which are 2-1/4") are actually, and most likely, the correct size. The reason why I think this is... If you measured a straight line from the rear most eyelet across to the bolt on the middle hanger and on to the front most eyelet. You could see that the LCI shackle(s) push the eyelets up and above that center line. The mixing of Dexter and LCI components most likely caused this difference. Going back to straight Dexter parts will bring the eyelets back into proper alignment, so the ends of the springs won't be pushed Up as they get to the equalizer. Somehow I can't imagine that this loading of the springs at the equalizer is as designed. It is most likely an aberration caused by mixing parts.

Here is the kit I am using. https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Suspension/Dexter-Axle/K71-652-00.html But I ordered the one off eBay that you noted earlier. Actually if I would have ordered directly from Eastern Marine. I would have saved a little on shipping.

Reference photos below (not mine).

[Brentw]

That is the the upgrade I did to mine, wet bolts, heavy shackes and the dexter ez flex. I know that after you drop some $$$ on an upgrade you are positive it's better, in this case, my shackles were starting to show wear in the holes and the equalizer has bettered the trailer ride. Now when I cross railroad tracks, I feel the truck cross but not the trailer.
A good investment.

[MVBrown]

Thanks Brent! Yes, since my RV is brand spanking new. I wanted to do this right away. I knew it would be a good investment.

[Brentw]

A pneumatic hammer will drive the plastic bushings out easy, if you are planning on doing your own work.

[travelin texans]

15366

On my new 5er a few years ago the plastic bushings, rather what was left of them pushed out with a screwdriver.

[Tinner12002]

Thanks Brent! Yes, since my RV is brand spanking new. I wanted to do this right away. I knew it would be a good investment.

Congrats on your new upgrade, you won't be disappointed!

[MVBrown]

A pneumatic hammer will drive the plastic bushings out easy, if you are planning on doing your own work.

Actually I do have a pneumatic chisel, but no air at my lot. I have to use this instead. Just to speed up the bolt removal.

[Tinner12002]

Actually I do have a pneumatic chisel, but no air at my lot. I have to use this instead.

If you haven't done your RV yet, not sure if pics you posted are pics of yours or not but someone posted that getting either a ball joint puller or some tool used on the frontend repair of a car is great for getting the bolts backed out of the hangers because of them being pressed in on a spline. I had to pound mine out and then pound the new ones back in. The puller had I known about it would have been much easier!
Just looked online, its the ball joint service kit. Advance auto will let you use one with a small deposit. I'm sure other stores will to, just have to check.

[travelin texans]

I used a large C clamp to press in the new bushings, with a dab of grease on them they pressed in wth no problem.

[MVBrown]

Since mine are so new. I can't imagine that they would be SET in there that bad. I do have a nice array of pullers and front end tools, so thanks for the comments. The job looks fairly straight forward. There is a great video out here ->https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WhejfHQHIZE

[MVBrown]

Woohoo! The new kit is in!

[MVBrown]

Well I was finally able to install the Dexter E-Z Flex this weekend. Boy what a difference in the quality of parts over stock. Check out the before and after photos. Also the Dexter bushings were far superior to the Mylar bushings in the stock arrangement. The shackles are beefed up. The wet bolts provide a source of lubrication; although they have not yet had grease pumped into them in this photo, and the install was fairly straight forward. I can't wait to road test it this month.

[busterbrown]

Well I was finally able to install the Dexter E-Z Flex this weekend. Boy what a difference in the quality of parts over stock. Check out the before and after photos. Also the Dexter bushings were far superior to the Mylar bushings in the stock arrangement. The shackles are beefed up. The wet bolts provide a source of lubrication; although they have not yet had grease pumped into them in this photo, and the install was fairly straight forward. I can't wait to road test it this month.

Looks good. I'm looking at upgrading the shackles and installing a wet bolt kit for my Bullet this summer prior to a big 3 week vacation. Was the install difficult? Did you jack up one side at a time? The Dexter E-Z flex doesn't look like an option for my Bullet as the wide stance axles are mounted via a very long hanger. Will have to look at other options for a hanger replacement.

[MVBrown]

Well the install was fairly straight forward. I posted a video earlier in the thread from the folks at eTrailer. I used a tool called a Safe Jack which is very robust (also very expensive) to get the RV frame up in the air, and yes, I did one side at a time. (Remember to Never try to lift the RV by the axles). After I got it up on stands. I found one of the nuts wouldn't come off due to a stripped outter thread at the bolt of the rear spring eyelet. This apparently happened during initial assembly. I didn't want to get hung up on it, so I moved on. I was able to come back to it later, and get it out with a combination of tools. So all in all about two hours per side for me. Granted I was working remotely from my RV lot which is Gravel :(. I found that unlike the video. I had to remove all the nuts at the center hanger from both sides of the shackles. This made them come out more easily. Also I have long punches that go in my air hammer. I used my shop hammer to drive out the bolts. Oddly enough they wouldn't come out by striking the end of the bolt threads. So make sure and use a decent length punch of adequate size. Also I am used to the nuances of getting the leaf spring eyelet to align with the bolt holes in the hangers. So be patient! This can take a little back and forth haggling. Lastly Lippert also makes equalizers. You may want to look at them.

[Brentw]

Good job and thanks for sharing.