Baffling power issue

[Baguak]

I have a keystone carbon 2015. Nothing works off battery and I can’t get the slides in because they require a battery. Off generator and shore power everything works fine... except the slides. It is like the rig doesn’t know that there are batteries!
Tried the following
Bypass the disconnect switch
New battery
All cables are tight that I can see
All fuses I can see
All breakers I can see

It is like there is an online fuse or something I can’t find. I am stuck! Any thoughts? Why make a slideout that requires a battery?

[travelin texans]

Other than battery what would you recommend to power slides? They're designed to be somewhat self contained, some want to go off grid.
There are also inline fuse in/on the power wire going to the pump & also a circuit breaker, if I recall it's a 50 amp, near the pump. If they work on shore power then the converter is apparently working.
If unplugged from shore power do you have lights, furnace, or water pump, if so then that leads me back to circuit breakers or fuse near hydraulic pump/batteries.
I don't have generator, but the issue may be in the transfer switch. Someone with a genny hopefully will chime in on that.

[Baguak]

I would think that the slides should work via generator or shore power which they do but NOT if the battery isnt there so that means that no matter what power I am hooked up to I still need a battery.
That said, I am with you on the inline fuse but here’s the thing.
The generator will start off a battery but nothing else seems to know there is a battery lol. Thanks for the brainstorming.

[travelin texans]

So you're saying other than starting the genny nothing else 12 volt will work If shore power is disconnected? What you're explaining sounds like your converter has bit the dust especially If you don't have 12 volt when connected to shore power. The converter "converts" 110 volt shore power or genny power to 12 volt & to charge the batteries. Might check the back of the converter for loose cables or blown fuses. Have you checked near the batteries for a loose ground or just bad ground connection due to paint or possibly corrosion.

[bobbecky]

It sure sounds like the thermal breaker near your battery and where the hydraulic pump is located, has failed. It is pretty inexpensive and should be easy to replace. Many of us have replaced the 40 or 50 amp breaker with an 80 amp breaker due to the lighter breaker not holding up very well. This is also recommended by Lippert on these rigs when you are having problems getting the hydraulics to work.

40 or 50 amp breaker normally installed by Keystone:

[Tinner12002]

It sure sounds like the thermal breaker near your battery and where the hydraulic pump is located, has failed. It is pretty inexpensive and should be easy to replace. Many of us have replaced the 40 or 50 amp breaker with an 80 amp breaker due to the lighter breaker not holding up very well. This is also recommended by Lippert on these rigs when you are having problems getting the hydraulics to work.

40 or 50 amp breaker normally installed by Keystone:

So your saying Keystone recommends using a 80amp in place of the 40-50 amp breaker?? What about wiring issues if there was a problem, can wiring handle 80 amps??

[jsmith948]

Check the reverse polarity fuses on the converter. If the battery cables were connected incorrectly - even for an instant - the fuses are blown. If they are lown, the converter will not charge your battery. Do you have 13+ volts at the battery?

[ctbruce]

I have a keystone carbon 2015. Nothing works off battery and I can’t get the slides in because they require a battery. Off generator and shore power everything works fine... except the slides. It is like the rig doesn’t know that there are batteries!
Tried the following
Bypass the disconnect switch
New battery
All cables are tight that I can see
All fuses I can see
All breakers I can see

It is like there is an online fuse or something I can’t find. I am stuck! Any thoughts? Why make a slideout that requires a battery?Is this a new to you camper? Or a new development in a camper you've owned for a while?

Have you done anything with/to the camper just prior to the current situation? Removed the battery? Had work done on it? Did it work previously? A little more of the story will help.

With the battery being new, I'm voting on the reverse polarity fuses being blown.
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[Baguak]

It sure sounds like the thermal breaker near your battery and where the hydraulic pump is located, has failed. It is pretty inexpensive and should be easy to replace. Many of us have replaced the 40 or 50 amp breaker with an 80 amp breaker due to the lighter breaker not holding up very well. This is also recommended by Lippert on these rigs when you are having problems getting the hydraulics to work.



40 or 50 amp breaker normally installed by Keystone:



Ok so that thing had loose wires dangling from it and the nut holding them on was about to fall off. Can I bypass it to test?


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[Baguak]

So your saying Keystone recommends using a 80amp in place of the 40-50 amp breaker?? What about wiring issues if there was a problem, can wiring handle 80 amps??



I will look that up and check it out!


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[Baguak]

Is this a new to you camper? Or a new development in a camper you've owned for a while?

Have you done anything with/to the camper just prior to the current situation? Removed the battery? Had work done on it? Did it work previously? A little more of the story will help.

With the battery being new, I'm voting on the reverse polarity fuses being blown.
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Yes, I tried to change the batteries... lol


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[Baguak]

Is this a new to you camper? Or a new development in a camper you've owned for a while?

Have you done anything with/to the camper just prior to the current situation? Removed the battery? Had work done on it? Did it work previously? A little more of the story will help.

With the battery being new, I'm voting on the reverse polarity fuses being blown.
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I have been searching the inter web forever. Any chance you know where that might be on a 2015 keystone carbon?


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[ctbruce]

I have been searching the inter web forever. Any chance you know where that might be on a 2015 keystone carbon?


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkIf you reversed the hook ups even for a second, they will blow. Remember it's not like a car battery. Black is positive and white is negative (usually, YMMV). The reverse polarity fuses may be in your power center, two 40amp fuses off to themselves or on the back of your converter. You'll have to look. I'd start at the battery to make sure it's correct and work my way forward from there.

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[Baguak]

If you reversed the hook ups even for a second, they will blow. Remember it's not like a car battery. Black is positive and white is negative (usually, YMMV). The reverse polarity fuses may be in your power center, two 40amp fuses off to themselves or on the back of your converter. You'll have to look. I'd start at the battery to make sure it's correct and work my way forward from there.

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I don’t think I reversed them ever but I did take them off with the generator running and the generator stopped.


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[ctbruce]

Those fuses are worth a check anyway. At least you can eliminate them as a a possibility.

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[Hatch8339]

Hi there does your trailer have a remote for the slides if the slides work on the remote there are fuses blown in the remote box hope this helps happens twice a year on my Cougar

[JRTJH]

The reverse polarity fuses are the two 40 amp (red) fuses located to the left of the "vertical stack of fuses" in the power center. Typically they will "blow" with any momentary reverse power application, so if you even touched the battery terminals with the wires reversed, the fuses are supposed to blow.

Given your description, I'd guess that either these fuses are bad or with your comment, "Ok so that thing had loose wires dangling from it and the nut holding them on was about to fall off. Can I bypass it to test?" It's possible that you also have loose connections going from your battery to the power center DC distribution circuits. You can't "bypass" that DC breaker with the loose terminals, that is one of the "major components" that provide power to your trailer wiring.

NOTE: As you can see in the second picture, on some power distribution centers you have to remove the faceplate to locate the reverse polarity fuses. If yours is like that, please PLEASE remember to disconnect shore power and turn off the generator before removing the faceplate !!!!!! Otherwise, you risk being electrocuted if you touch the wrong thing !!!!!!

[bobbecky]

So your saying Keystone recommends using a 80amp in place of the 40-50 amp breaker?? What about wiring issues if there was a problem, can wiring handle 80 amps??

No, not Keystone, but Lippert recommends the heavier breaker. Most of the rigs that have the hydraulics, slides and leveling systems, use #4 copper from the batteries to the hydraulic pump and to the electric panel, and that is more than capable to use the 80 amp breaker on. Since upgrading our breaker, due to the system stopping repeatedly when operating it, we have not had the problem.

[Baguak]

Hi there does your trailer have a remote for the slides if the slides work on the remote there are fuses blown in the remote box hope this helps happens twice a year on my Cougar



No remote for them but that would be cool!


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[Baguak]

This generic TS guide couldn’t be much simpler

http://wfcoelectronics.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/New-Flow-Chart-for-WF-8900-Series.pdf



I seriously cannot find two 40 amp fuses anywhere on this thing. Any other location they may be?


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[Baguak]

Having a multi meter and understanding how to use it would be invaluable. The meter is not an expensive item to purchase and there are numerous videos, etc that will teach you how to correctly use one..



I have one and can use it.


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[Baguak]

Have you used a multi meter at the batteries and measured voltage. It should read around 13.4 to 13.8 with shore or generator power..if. It then as others stated check the two reverse polarity fuses on the converter..

If slid3s have hydraulic pump motor and it’s not running then either the resettable breaker from battery to pump has failed or the two way solenoid on the pump motor itself has failed or It is not getting power to run pump



It’s not even just the slides. Nothing works from battery except the generator will start off battery power.


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[Baguak]

I appreciate all the ideas! Currently busted out the multimeter to check the thermal breakers and both are fine.
The only thing I can’t seem to find is the two 40 amp reverse polarity fuses everyone is taking about. I even removed the fuse panel and nothing. Arg...


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[Baguak]

I appreciate all the ideas! Currently busted out the multimeter to check the thermal breakers and both are fine.
The only thing I can’t seem to find is the two 40 amp reverse polarity fuses everyone is taking about. I even removed the fuse panel and nothing. Arg...


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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180128/e4ee2e376c62a07cba86249db36c218a.jpg



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[Baguak]

You need to locate the converter... it’s usually behind a panel in the basement.. it will have two 40 amp fuses located on back side of the converter



Is the converter different from the transfer box?


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[JRTJH]

Some (not very many) Keystone trailers use a "stand alone converter" that installs behind the power center. On some trailers it can be installed up to 4 or 5 feet away and connected to the DC distribution panel by two large gauge wires. It will look something like this picture and may be installed under the steps with the power center installed in a cupboard base near the steps. (just an example of how they can be remotely installed). The power center can be removed by taking out the 4 screws and gently pulling it away from it's mount. If the converter is not located on the back of that assembly, follow the two large wires to find the converter. You'll find the reverse polarity fuses located on the converter (rather than on the power center DC panel) in that type of unit.

Trust me (us) when we say that you have a converter and you have reverse polarity fuses "somewhere".

You can download the WFCO owner's manual/operating instructions for the stand alone converter here: http://wfcoelectronics.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/9800-Operators-Manual.pdf

[Baguak]

Directly from Trekwood.. your converter is stand alone and will look like this in the link





http://www.trekwood.com/products/413498/Converter-100-Amp-w-3-Stage-Output-Deck-Mount-w-PFC



That is exactly what it looks like and you and a few other incredible people here have helped me to find it located behind a panel covering the water heater. There are 3 35amp fuses and they are all good.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180128/079c2a0910402b1122c158552012d170.jpg


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[Baguak]

So measuring DC power at the battery with shore power hooked up are you seeing 13.4 or better?

Since slides are the main issue I would check the dual solenoid to the hydraulic motor and see if power is present.

If you Are in a bind and need to move you do know you can manually close those slides?


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I think I didn’t articulate the issue well enough. Nothing that will run on a battery will work, not just the slides.

I know the slides can manually be cranked in. I have never done it but am I assuming correctly that the wood frame around the slideout on the inside needs to be removed?


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[Baguak]

That is exactly what it looks like and you and a few other incredible people here have helped me to find it located behind a panel covering the water heater. There are 3 35amp fuses and they are all good.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180128/079c2a0910402b1122c158552012d170.jpg


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Might I also say that on the front of the converter there are three lights. None of them are on.


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[Baguak]

So if nothing DC is working trace from battery to converter. If DC present trace from converter DC wires to main distribution panel.

Is DC present at bus? If yes then issue has to be at the distribution panel.

Are all the heavy gauge white and black DC wires tight connections at converter and dist panel.


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Heading out to check now. I am starting to think the converter is shot


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[Baguak]

Also I missed it but you state non of the 3 LED lights are on. If the green LeD is not lit either you have no AC power to converter or converter is BAD


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That was what I was assuming. Can I use my volt meter to test at the converter?


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[xrated]

Baguak......back in your post #28, where you show a picture of the breaker panel....all the way to the left of the panel there is a breaker that is either tripped or turned off. Would that be the breaker that feeds the 120VAC to your converter? Possibly?

One other question....are there any of the 120V items in the trailer not working.....receptacles, microwave, water heater, etc, etc.? What I'm getting at with that question is that if you have other 120V items not working, there may be a possibility that you've lost one side of the incoming power to the breaker panel. If you are comfortable and know what you are doing with a meter, check across the load side of the two main fuses in the breaker panel and see if you have your approx. 240VAC.

[ctbruce]

What and where do you have your shore power plugged into? Is it a GFI plug at the house?

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[Baguak]

Nice catch on that beaker


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I think I hit it when I took the panel off. I checked anyways. It’s to the water heater. No change once flipping it back on. Good catch though!


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[xrated]

It looked like it was off vs. tripped, but was worth asking about. How about the rest of the question.....are you missing some 120 volt power anywhere else in the trailer?

[Baguak]

It looked like it was off vs. tripped, but was worth asking about. How about the rest of the question.....are you missing some 120 volt power anywhere else in the trailer?



Everywhere when trying to run off battery. Thanks!


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[ctbruce]

Everywhere when trying to run off battery. Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkSo the microwave is working? The electric 110v plugs in the trailer are working? How many volts do you read across the battery terminals with your meter? Where are you plugged into? A campground pedestal or a extention at home?

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[Javi]

Everywhere when trying to run off battery. Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkOkay... now I'm really confused.. the battery don't do 110 ac without an inverter..
I thought you wasn't getting 12 volts

Javi

[Baguak]

I feel like things are getting confusing. Probably my lack of understanding. Sorry about the late reply but I work long hours as well.
Currently everything except my slide outs work off shore and generator
The slide outs require a battery
Nothing like my lights for example run off my battery
I have verified both thermal breakers are fine
I verified all fuses on the control panel are fine
I verified all breakers on control panel are fine
I verified the reverse amp fuses are fine
There are no power lights in the converter box lit up
Even if the converter is bad itself this doesn’t explain why my lights do not work correct?

Again, I cannot thank all of you enough for your patience and help on this!


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[ctbruce]

Please see my questions in post #49. Answering these may help us get back on the rails.

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[Baguak]

So the microwave is working? The electric 110v plugs in the trailer are working? How many volts do you read across the battery terminals with your meter? Where are you plugged into? A campground pedestal or a extention at home?

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Everything works unless trying to run off battery. So if I’m plugged in the shore lights work. If I am trying to turn on the lights with just battery it does not work.


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[ctbruce]

Everything works unless trying to run off battery. So if I’m plugged in the shore lights work. If I am trying to turn on the lights with just battery it does not work.


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkOk, your plugged I to shore power. Are you at a campground pedestal or plugged in at your house?

It does seem strange that when you plug in to shore power your converter is not lighting up or working but your 12v lights come on. That just doesn't make sense.

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[Baguak]

Ok, your plugged I to shore power. Are you at a campground pedestal or plugged in at your house?

It does seem strange that when you plug in to shore power your converter is not lighting up or working but your 12v lights come on. That just doesn't make sense.

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I am at home currently. If it matters it seems that this happened when I changed out my battery.


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[Baguak]

Ok, your plugged I to shore power. Are you at a campground pedestal or plugged in at your house?

It does seem strange that when you plug in to shore power your converter is not lighting up or working but your 12v lights come on. That just doesn't make sense.

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My apologies. When plugged in I do see a light on the converter. It is green by the “power” to say it is on.


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[Freeheel4life]

I am at home currently. If it matters it seems that this happened when I changed out my battery.


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It may be worth double checking that you didn't have a lead get tucked in underneath or behind battery when you wrestled it in. In particular your ground lead to the frame....

[Baguak]

It may be worth double checking that you didn't have a lead get tucked in underneath or behind battery when you wrestled it in. In particular your ground lead to the frame....



My initial thought way back when. I even set the old battery back to the way it was. Do the lights run via the converter when nothing is plugged in and trying to run off battery?


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[ctbruce]

Last questions. How old is your battery. Did you measure the volts between battery poles, both connected to power and disconnected?

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[Baguak]

Last questions. How old is your battery. Did you measure the volts between battery poles, both connected to power and disconnected?

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One was brand new. The other two were older. Neither do their job lol. Again, appreciate the help.


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[shov]

So measuring DC power at the battery with shore power hooked up are you seeing 13.4 or better?

Since slides are the main issue I would check the dual solenoid to the hydraulic motor and see if power is present.

If you Are in a bind and need to move you do know you can manually close those slides?


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This is what I was going to suggest. I had exactly this same issue. Slide went out but the motor wouldn’t reverse it direction to pull them back in. Removed the motor, replaced the solenoid and presto. Valuable lesson. Learn how how to manually retract or extend your slides before you “need” to.


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[shov]

Still haven’t seen where you have tested the voltage of the batteries. Just throwing it out there. Are the batteries 12 or 6 volt. And are they wired correctly. Series/parallel?


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[Baguak]

This is what I was going to suggest. I had exactly this same issue. Slide went out but the motor wouldn’t reverse it direction to pull them back in. Removed the motor, replaced the solenoid and presto. Valuable lesson. Learn how how to manually retract or extend your slides before you “need” to.


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Great advise! In my case nothing that should run off batteries are working unfortunately. Today I will test the converter output.


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[Baguak]

Still haven’t seen where you have tested the voltage of the batteries. Just throwing it out there. Are the batteries 12 or 6 volt. And are they wired correctly. Series/parallel?


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Sorry I missed this. When hooked up to shore I am getting roughly 11.5
When disconnected I am getting the same thing. I tried a brand new, fully charged battery as well. I will be testing the converter output today. I really appreciate the help!


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[jsmith948]

I have been following along and, like others, I have noticed that you seem to be unwilling or unable to tell us the voltage reading at the batteries. Why is that?
In order to help you troubleshoot the problem we should determine the following:
1. Are your batteries 12v or 6v?
2. You indicated that 2 of your batteries are old and 1 was recently replaced - are they all 12v, 2-6v and 1-12v - how are they connected - series or parallel?
3. Is the third battery dedicated to starting the aux gen. or is it tied to the coach batteries?
4. With shore/gen power off, what is the voltage at the batteries?
5. With the batteries disconnected and shore power on, what is the voltage across the battery cables?
6. You said your problem started after you replaced on battery. Are the other batteries good? Did you connect the new battery correctly or did you blow the polarity fuses?
7. You show that there are 3-35amp fuses on your converter. What brand converter is it? Have you followed the troubleshooting guide in the manual?
8. What is the voltage at the slide switch?
Added: It seems you were answering SHOV while I was typing - 11.5v is low.

[Baguak]

I have been following along and, like others, I have noticed that you seem to be unwilling or unable to tell us the voltage reading at the batteries. Why is that?

In order to help you troubleshoot the problem we should determine the following:

1. Are your batteries 12v or 6v?

2. You indicated that 2 of your batteries are old and 1 was recently replaced - are they all 12v, 2-6v and 1-12v - how are they connected - series or parallel?

3. Is the third battery dedicated to starting the aux gen. or is it tied to the coach batteries?

4. With shore/gen power off, what is the voltage at the batteries?

5. With the batteries disconnected and shore power on, what is the voltage across the battery cables?

6. You said your problem started after you replaced on battery. Are the other batteries good? Did you connect the new battery correctly or did you blow the polarity fuses?

7. You show that there are 3-35amp fuses on your converter. What brand converter is it? Have you followed the troubleshooting guide in the manual?

8. What is the voltage at the slide switch?



12 volt
11.5 on old and 12.5 on new. Does not matter if hooked up or not
Connected in parallel
In an earlier post someone linked to a guide for the converter, it wasn’t a very good guide but helped me understand the layout

I answered someone earlier about the voltage and I think it gets lost in all the comments and replies. Today I will test the output of the converter. I needed to look up how to do that first and I sometimes work 10-12 hour days. The unit is at my house so I’m not stuck anywhere. I think it is probably the converter with all things considered by good people like yourself helping me through it! My gratitude is never ending for help on this!


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[Bostongone]

Quote:
Originally Posted by bobbecky View Post
It sure sounds like the thermal breaker near your battery and where the hydraulic pump is located, has failed. It is pretty inexpensive and should be easy to replace. Many of us have replaced the 40 or 50 amp breaker with an 80 amp breaker due to the lighter breaker not holding up very well. This is also recommended by Lippert on these rigs when you are having problems getting the hydraulics to work.



40 or 50 amp breaker normally installed by Keystone:


Ok so that thing had loose wires dangling from it and the nut holding them on was about to fall off. Can I bypass it to test?

Has this thermal breaker been replaced yet? It certainly seems like it could be related to a problem with the slides and should be replaced just based on appearance! I see in #67 that you have 11.5v at the battery with and without shore power yet in another recent reply you say that the converter green led is now on. I’m not sure if Jsmith948 asked but what is the converter output on shore power but with the battery disconnected (open circuit)?

[Baguak]

Has this thermal breaker been replaced yet? It certainly seems like it could be related to a problem with the slides and should be replaced just based on appearance! I see in #67 that you have 11.5v at the battery with and without shore power yet in another recent reply you say that the converter green led is now on. I’m not sure if Jsmith948 asked but what is the converter output on shore power but with the battery disconnected (open circuit)?



Thanks
I tested both thermal breakers and they seem to be fine. I don’t disagree that they should be replaced however.
The green light to the converter is on when plugged into shore power. Sorry for any confusion
I will be testing output today in my lunch break.


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[JRTJH]

When you test the converter output, completely disconnect the batteries from the system. You should be testing the converter output at the battery terminal leads (no battery involved) and it should be 13.6 VDC. If the voltage is anything less, your converter output is not correct.

If the converter output voltage at the battery reads in the 0.0 Vdc range,
or the battery is not charging, check for:
- an open inline fuse in the battery wire (if installed by OEM)
- an open wire between the converter and the RV battery
- loose ground connection
- improper torques

If none of those are found, or if the voltage at the output terminals of the converter fuse panel (2 big lugs) is less than 13.6 VDC with the batteries disconnected, then the converter is bad and needs to be replaced. WFCO has a 2 year warranty, so if you're still inside that time frame, contact WFCO, if not, you can find replacement converters on Amazon, EBay, at any RV dealer (expensive) or from many online RV parts centers (ETrailer, PPL, Trekwood, etc).

ADDED: Remember, if there is a battery connected to the battery terminals, then the above tests will not read correctly and you can't diagnose the converter. The only way to test the converter output properly is to completely remove all battery connections from the system. Otherwise, any voltage in the battery will give you an incorrect reading.

[JRTJH]

ChuckS,

I agree with you that the converter is probably bad, but this is directly from the WFCO guide: "Before checking the converter output voltage, it is necessary to disconnect the battery cables at the battery."

The reason for that is a shorted cell in the battery can "pull down the voltage output" and cause you to read +/- 10 VDC at the converter terminals. This would indicate a "bad converter output" even if the converter output is 13.6 VDC and the converter is operating correctly. REMOVING THE BATTERY FROM THE SYSTEM IS IMPERATIVE TO PROPER TROUBLESHOOTING......

[Baguak]

I don’t agree and that’s ok. Bottom line he needs help. Even with a shorter cell lowering residual voltage if the DC output is there you will see an increase in voltage from converter... it’s been a nice read and he clearly has DC issues.


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Ok thanks everyone. I was able to get back out there and measure the voltage out of the converter. While plugged into shore I am reading 13v out. Thanks again for everyone’s help and patience with me.


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[xrated]

I don’t agree and that’s ok. Bottom line he needs help. Even with a shorter cell lowering residual voltage if the DC output is there you will see an increase in voltage from converter... it’s been a nice read and he clearly has DC issues.


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John is 100% correct on that. Keeping a "load" on the converter output can give false voltage readings, especially if there is an issue with the battery. That is the same theory that is used when load rating a battery. Put a known amount of load on it and document how far the supply voltage drops. If it gets down to a certain voltage, the battery is toast. So if you are checking converter output voltage without removing the "load", and there is a sorted cell in the battery, it will pull the converter voltage down and make it appear to be a bad converter....instead of finding the real problem....a bad battery.

[Baguak]

John is 100% correct on that. Keeping a "load" on the converter output can give false voltage readings, especially if there is an issue with the battery. That is the same theory that is used when load rating a battery. Ppt a known amount of load on it and document how far the supply voltage drops.



I am not understanding this. I am not as smart as most of you lol. I did register 13v out on the converter while plugged into shore.


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[shov]

With batteries disconnected? I think it still should read a bit higher


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[Baguak]

With batteries disconnected? I think it still should read a bit higher


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Sorry, I did NOT disconnect my batteries while reading. Not sure if it matters but without shore power the power light on the converter doesn’t even turn on.


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[xrated]

I am not understanding this. I am not as smart as most of you lol. I did register 13v out on the converter while plugged into shore.


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Part of what you are seeing, as far as the voltage from the converter without the batteries hooked up, may vary depending on the quality of your converter. If it is a cheap model tester or maybe has had a bit of abuse, it might only read 13 volts instead of say, 13.63....or something similar. I have a Fluke brand multimeter that costs over $300 and is extremely accurate. I'm not criticizing your meter, i don't even know what kind you have, I'm just trying to explain why it may be showing 13 volts and mine might show 13.63 volts. Bottom line is that it appears that your converter is putting out some voltage. You DID disconnect the lead from the battery.....RIGHT?

[xrated]

Sorry, I did NOT disconnect my batteries while reading. Not sure if it matters but without shore power the power light on the converter doesn’t even turn on.


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IT MATTERS! Disconnect them and then take a voltage reading on the converter output wires.....and stay on shore power to make sure your converter is energized. Just make sure that the leads from the converter are NOT touching each other or anything else. They should just be hanging in the free air......and let us know the voltage that you get....exact voltage.

[JRTJH]

With batteries disconnected? I think it still should read a bit higher


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You're correct. With the batteries disconnected the converter should read 13.6VDC. 13 volts is too low and would indicate a bad converter. That's why it is IMPERATIVE to disconnect all batteries from the converter system before troubleshooting......

[JRTJH]

Sorry, I did NOT disconnect my batteries while reading. Not sure if it matters but without shore power the power light on the converter doesn’t even turn on.

You MUST disconnect all batteries from the system or you will get erroneous voltage readings..... and for the part I changed to red, the green light is the "power on" light and will only illuminate when your shore power is plugged in and the converter is "powered on". so that green light is supposed to be off when you unplug your shore power cord.

[Baguak]

You MUST disconnect all batteries from the system or you will get erroneous voltage readings..... and for the part I changed to red, the green light is the "power on" light and will only illuminate when your shore power is plugged in and the converter is "powered on". so that green light is supposed to be off when you unplug your shore power cord.



Ok will disconnect and try again


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[Baguak]

Part of what you are seeing, as far as the voltage from the converter without the batteries hooked up, may vary depending on the quality of your converter. If it is a cheap model tester or maybe has had a bit of abuse, it might only read 13 volts instead of say, 13.63....or something similar. I have a Fluke brand multimeter that costs over $300 and is extremely accurate. I'm not criticizing your meter, i don't even know what kind you have, I'm just trying to explain why it may be showing 13 volts and mine might show 13.63 volts. Bottom line is that it appears that your converter is putting out some voltage. You DID disconnect the lead from the battery.....RIGHT?



No worries, I also am using a fluke. I didn’t disconnect the battery and will do so when I get home. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180130/2e13b7b293b6987ecadb566f2418d24b.jpg


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[Baguak]

No worries, I also am using a fluke. I didn’t disconnect the battery and will do so when I get home. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180130/2e13b7b293b6987ecadb566f2418d24b.jpg


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BTW that is a readout from my battery with shore plugged in.


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[Baguak]

Well after many days I have learned so much! Everything everyone here has gone through to help me out is so much appreciated.
I believe the issue lies in either the converter or in the control panel. I am going to have a mobile tech (someone much smarter than I) come diagnose it. I will update this thread one last time when I have the resolution. Again, all of your help has been so much appreciated!


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[B-O-B'03]

If you find the converter needs replacement, I bought my new one from best converter (http://www.bestconverter.com/).

It was just the internal board, fit perfectly into my existing load center and is a 4 stage unit. (Progressive Dynamics Inteli-Power 4655 MBA (Main board assembly)).

-Brian

[Baguak]

If you find the converter needs replacement, I bought my new one from best converter (http://www.bestconverter.com/).



It was just the internal board, fit perfectly into my existing load center and is a 4 stage unit. (Progressive Dynamics Inteli-Power 4655 MBA (Main board assembly)).



-Brian



Thanks! I’m at the point where I don’t care and just want it working. I feel like I gave it the old Boy Scout try!


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[Baguak]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180201/259f769df8374f2822561a17251755f6.jpg

I want to take a minute again for everyone’s help. This may come in handy for future issues folks might have.

Everything measured correctly as far as voltage goes. Everything...

So one person told me that even though a thermal breaker registers continuity it may still be bad and I could bypass it just to make sure. When I went to hook an alligator clip to it the post fell out....

Once bypassed, everything worked correctly. Ordering a new one now.


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