No heat in bedroom

[gordo]

New Montana 3130. Still trying to figure out the switches and things.

Here is the issue. The furnace in the living area works as it should. The furnace in the bedroom, not so much. I set the thermostat, the blower comes on, but no fire. Propane full, everything is as it should be, but no heat upstairs.

This is driving me nuts, Granted, it is not a long trip. Any clues????:banghead:

[JRTJH]

I could be wrong about this, but I don't think you have two furnaces in your RV. It's a 35' fifth wheel and the specs I've found on all of the models online indicate that there is a 35,000 BTU furnace and a 30,000 BTU air conditioner system (2 15K units) and the main A/C is a heat pump. The front A/C is "cool only". So, the "control thermostat" in the bedroom may be the same model as the "heat pump thermostat" in the main area of the RV, and the "heat section" just isn't used.

The furnace heat comes through the floor registers and typically the long duct run and the sharp angles in the ducting cause the floor registers to "barely blow warm air". The ceiling ducting for the A/C units is interconnected so with either unit operating, all ceiling ducts deliver air. If the main unit is on, the heat pump will deliver warm air, but if the front unit is on, it can only deliver cool/ambient air since there is no heat pump capability.

That said, you may have a 5100 BTU "heat strip" in the front unit. Typically that type "electric heating element" doesn't deliver very much warmth and there is almost no noticeable temperature rise when using the "heat strip". On some models that are equipped with a heat strip, the trailer leaves the factory with the heat strip unplugged from the A/C unit. You might find that to be the situation "IF" you have a heat strip.

However, back to your question, it's likely your thermostat in the bedroom doesn't control any heating function and you only have one furnace, located beside the water heater on the road side of your basement area.

[gordo]

I'll go look for that plug. I guess I was understanding that the thermostat controlled heat up there.
I thought the kid that did the walk through with us said it did.

[gordo]

Hold on, could it be I need the heat pump on down below to get heat up top....Im sooooo confused

[JRTJH]

If (and I believe from the literature they are) the two A/C units are tied in "racetrack configuration" so unless the "main heatpump" is on, there is no heat being delivered to the "racetrack" to be propelled through the system. But, there probably is no need to turn on the bedroom unit to get air delivered from the main unit. Either unit should deliver air through all of the vents. Keep in mind that you can only get "warm air" if the heat pump is operating.

[travelin texans]

If your talking furnace, warm air from floor vents, you should only have one. On mine the bedroom furnace duct work had came loose from register & had to remove basement wall to reattach.
If talking heat pump, warm air from ceiling vents, then if it's 40 degrees or less outside it will blow cold air not warm. If you have your thermostat set to "elec" it should run the heat pump until ambient temperature inside falls to 3-5 degrees below set temperature then gas furnace will start up. Also if thermostat is on "elec" when you turn it on if you set t stat more than 3-5 degrees above what the temp shows inside the furnace will start til it warms to t stat setting then the heat pump will take over.
I hope you can make sense of this, it's not as complicated as it sounds.

[gordo]

Well,
The dealer called, and said that the bedroom thermostat on provides a/c to the bedroom. The heat is supplied by the living room thermostat. That being said, it would make sense that very little warm air makes it to the bedroom heat ducts.

Sounds like B/S to me, but I'm willing to make a few tests. If I block one of the living area ducts, more air will go to the bedroom....We will see...

[JRTJH]

What the dealer told you isn't BS. It's what I attempted to explain above and the way every trailer with two roof units, one of which is a heat pump and one that is a conventional A/C works. They all do the same.

[Pull Toy]

For what it's worth... our heat pump is useless below 40deg +/-. You need the furnace and or fireplace heater, and/or heat strips, (if equipped) when it's cold. Heat pump or heat strip will deliver warmth from the ceiling, The furnace is in the floor vents.

If your furnace is providing warm air downstairs, but not upstairs, your problem is probably the ducting to the upstairs floor registers. I would check my duct connections, and also check for kinks. Zip tie, or preferably duct tape, or clamp all register connections to keep them in place.

When it's really chilly, we throw down towels or area rugs over the floor vents where we "are not" forcing/directing thewarm air to where "we are".



Good Luck,

[gordo]

What the dealer told you isn't BS. It's what I attempted to explain above and the way every trailer with two roof units, one of which is a heat pump and one that is a conventional A/C works. They all do the same.

Now that I have re-read what you posted, and you are right. I just get frustrated with dealing with them.

I will go take a look at the duct work too. It could be disconnected somewhere.

Thanks to all for the good advise. Now I just need to get my truck, get it set up for the tow, so we can go.

[IRV2]

Sometimes this can happen. We wondered why we weren't getting warm air from this register. Our brand new 5er.

[gordo]

Sometimes this can happen. We wondered why we weren't getting warm air from this register. Our brand new 5er.

Holy Crap!
That looks nasty. I'll be checking things out as I go.
p.s.
I see you have the andersen hitch, do you like it. I looking to buy a new f350 s/b and weighing all the possibilities.

Thanks

[Tinner12002]

If the thermostat is anything like mine, which will take some time getting used to, when you go to heat, it will show elec or gas. If you go the elec route then yes as others have mentioned you should have warm air from ceiling vents. If you select gas then your furnace will run supplying warmer air from the floor vents which you should have possibly a couple of in your bedroom, upper units don't run when you use the gas or furnace option.

[IRV2]

Holy Crap!
That looks nasty. I'll be checking things out as I go.
p.s.
I see you have the andersen hitch, do you like it. I looking to buy a new f350 s/b and weighing all the possibilities.

Thanks

Lol, yes we were shocked to see that and we fixed it. As for the Andersen hitch I really like it I have the steel version only 40lbs. This is my first 5er and this hitch is very easy to hook up just drop it on. I do have rails in the truck bed but its only about 1 1/2 '' sits above the bed and thats not a big deal. Taking it in and out is easy I just unbolt it and hand it to the wife...:hide:

[gordo]

Lol, yes we were shocked to see that and we fixed it. As for the Andersen hitch I really like it I have the steel version only 40lbs. This is my first 5er and this hitch is very easy to hook up just drop it on. I do have rails in the truck bed but its only about 1 1/2 '' sits above the bed and thats not a big deal. Taking it in and out is easy I just unbolt it and hand it to the wife...:hide:

Ha, If I handed that to my wife, I would be wearing it.

As for the Andersen, I am thinking the steel one as well. New truck will have the puck set up, so rails will be the answer. Still debating with myself which way to go. Fifth wheels are tried and true, but then again, so was the horse and buggy.

Thanks again for the advise...

[rhagfo]

Well,
The dealer called, and said that the bedroom thermostat on provides a/c to the bedroom. The heat is supplied by the living room thermostat. That being said, it would make sense that very little warm air makes it to the bedroom heat ducts.

Sounds like B/S to me, but I'm willing to make a few tests. If I block one of the living area ducts, more air will go to the bedroom....We will see...

Not sure how your ducts work, if all is run through a rigid floor duct or the flexible type like IRV2 has.
At this point is is time to remove registers and if rigid, use a mirror to check for obstructions. The other thing to look for is poor connections.
Our bedroom is on a rigid duct connected to the under floor duct, that connection leaked so much we had very poor circulation to the bedroom.
Get a roll of good quality foil duct tape, and seal every leak.

[Johnko]

You say that blower comes on but no fire. I'm assuming you mean that that propane furnace burner does not come on. A wasp had built a nest in the furnace exhaust on my Montana. I had to remove the cover and clean it out. There is a sensor in the exhaust and intake to make sure you have air flow to the furnace before the burner will light.

[gordo]

You say that blower comes on but no fire. I'm assuming you mean that that propane furnace burner does not come on. A wasp had built a nest in the furnace exhaust on my Montana. I had to remove the cover and clean it out. There is a sensor in the exhaust and intake to make sure you have air flow to the furnace before the burner will light.

Well, yes, no propane burner.
It looks like the bedroom "heater" is not. Just a/c from the bedroom thermostat.
Kinda sucks, but we can live with it.
Thanks for the help,
Gordo

[Johnko]

I'm am not familiar with the heat pump set up, but my propane furnace heat ducts in the floor go to the bathroom and bedroom. The duct work is actually thru the belly storage.

[travelin texans]

You will only have 1 furnace regardless of how many thermostats you have. If more than 1 has a "heat" setting then it's either a heat pump, has heat strips or just a universal thermostat that does absolutely nothing for heat.
Agree the furnace ONLY blows from floor vents, heat pumps/heat strips/ac ONLY from ceiling vents.

[jimhardenbrook]

Mine had little heat from. Bedroom floor vent.

Round silver type air hose had slipped off furnace. Removed drawers and re-attached silver duct and fixed. SIMPLE


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[gordo]

I'll take a look at that as well....

THANKS

[flybouy]

Now that I have re-read what you posted, and you are right. I just get frustrated with dealing with them.

I will go take a look at the duct work too. It could be disconnected somewhere.

Thanks to all for the good advise. Now I just need to get my truck, get it set up for the tow, so we can go.

Hang in there gordo it will get better. As much as I dislike dealers you can't get frustrated with them because you don't understand what they are telling you. This is a common issue with the industry as things in a camper don't work the same way as in a stick and brick house. The industry compounds the issue by poorly integrating systems that don't play well together or are not intuitive to operate, referring to OE instructions that may read like a 1980's Chinese toy assembly book. :banghead:This forum is an excellent resource as the members here are not only willing to help but have most likely "been there done that" with the issue that you are facing and can save you much time and frustration. Enjoy your new fiver and travel safe.

[gordo]

Hang in there gordo it will get better. As much as I dislike dealers you can't get frustrated with them because you don't understand what they are telling you. This is a common issue with the industry as things in a camper don't work the same way as in a stick and brick house. The industry compounds the issue by poorly integrating systems that don't play well together or are not intuitive to operate, referring to OE instructions that may read like a 1980's Chinese toy assembly book. :banghead:This forum is an excellent resource as the members here are not only willing to help but have most likely "been there done that" with the issue that you are facing and can save you much time and frustration. Enjoy your new fiver and travel safe.

I have had a number of different rigs, and you are right, NOTHING seems normal. I had a boat once that had an electrical issue. When I asked about the color code on wires, the dealer just laughed and said it depended on who was working the day my boat was built, and what their favorite color was....

As far as this forum, I love it. I have received a lot of help already..Thanks again..

[SkiSmuggs]

As for the Andersen, I am thinking the steel one as well. New truck will have the puck set up, so rails will be the answer. Still debating with myself which way to go. Fifth wheels are tried and true, but then again, so was the horse and buggy.

Thanks again for the advise...

I had the original steel rail mount in my previous truck and got the pucks with my new truck so I bought the Reese puck to rail adapter. It raised the Andersen 2.5" off the bed and I couldn't get my truck level. I bought the aluminum goose ball mount and we are level now. Reese adapter sold. Will be posting the steel Andersen this spring.

[gordo]

I had the original steel rail mount in my previous truck and got the pucks with my new truck so I bought the Reese puck to rail adapter. It raised the Andersen 2.5" off the bed and I couldn't get my truck level. I bought the aluminum goose ball mount and we are level now. Reese adapter sold. Will be posting the steel Andersen this spring.

How do you like the Andersen? I have not heard a bad thing yet, except that it is something new.

For those of us that have a hard time with change, we need LOTS of reassurance..
I have a new F350 ordered, and am REALLY leaning that way.

Thanks for the info

[WanderOne]

I have the same problem with my 2018 Cougar 25RES 5W. I want to start looking at ducting. Do I just start dropping the underbelly? Or is that full of foam. I know this forum says everything is repairable but, Gulp....

Also when looking at wall in basement to see ducting under upstairs, is that something that is just screws or staples and glue?

Any guidance welcomed.

[JRTJH]

There are at least two "screwed in place" panels in the basement. Look for them, remove the screws (probably 4 on each panel) and you can access most of the ductwork, wiring that's under the steps going up to the bedroom, plumbing for the gray and black tank, shower, bathroom sink and black tank flush and the back of the water heater. The ducting from the underside of the main cabin floor runs up through the floor into that area of the basement, connects to the duct that's against the ceiling of the basement storage and the underside of the aluminum ducting for the bath/bedroom is attached to the top of the basement storage.

I would leave the coroplast alone until you check the condition of the ducting behind the basement storage. That's much easier to access and often is the location of any kinks or twists in the round "dryer vent hose" ducting.

[SkiSmuggs]

How do you like the Andersen? I have not heard a bad thing yet, except that it is something new.

For those of us that have a hard time with change, we need LOTS of reassurance..
I have a new F350 ordered, and am REALLY leaning that way.

Thanks for the info

I am the opposite and embrace change when it appears to be a clear advantage. When I first saw the Andersen, I thought I gotta have it as I didn't want to wrestle a 100 lb hitch ever again. Both the steel and the aluminum have been great. Generation 1 of the aluminum had a rarely discovered weakness, but Andersen fixed it with a new design and offered free updates.
There are adamant nay sayers who have never tried it and never will.
Just like diesel additives. While I agree most are snake oil, I use the ones that work for me rather than take advice from the throwing my money away crowd. I am good with proven benefit.
Back to your regularly scheduled programming of heat duct problems.

[Jonnyjuno]

I just bought a 2019 3700lk same issue except no fan or anything main ac has heat pump main thermostat controls furnace. upstairs bedroom thermostat only controls ac in bedroom although it has furnace option it does not operate the furnace. Which happens to suck a lot because it’s cold in the main living area heat pump set to 66 and the bedroom is at around 70°

[ctbruce]

I just bought a 2019 3700lk same issue except no fan or anything main ac has heat pump main thermostat controls furnace. upstairs bedroom thermostat only controls ac in bedroom although it has furnace option it does not operate the furnace. Which happens to suck a lot because it’s cold in the main living area heat pump set to 66 and the bedroom is at around 70°Do you have the electric heating element in your unit? You'll have to take the cover off and look. It will have fins and be towards the front of the unit. Usually they are not plugged in and don't work. The plug on mine was on the right side of the unit.

[Jonnyjuno]

Do you have the electric heating element in your unit? You'll have to take the cover off and look. It will have fins and be towards the front of the unit. Usually they are not plugged in and don't work. The plug on mine was on the right side of the unit.

I am going to have to look now I have the whisper quiet which is not actually THAT quiet in the bedroom trying to sleep haha but it is noticeably quieter

[jimthemosaicguy]

This might have been mentioned already. I have a 2” hose that runs from the furnace thru the cargo area (attached to the ceiling with zip ties in between the aluminum frame, then into the wall of my bedroom.

If you have the same check to make sure you didn’t load something tall and rip or puncture it like I’d did. Easy fix.

[Bazowie]

I had the same problem (dont know if you fixed this yet) the furnace box on all trailers are garbage with not seal I was getting no flo to my bedroom either, that was because the air was escaping out of every nook and cranny of the box so I sealed them with aluminum tape all of them meticuliously, now I can feel air flo a couple feet off the floor at the vent closest to the furnace and about 6" off in the bedroom (where there was none.)
hope this helps. (that is if you didnt already fix your problem)
if so maybe it will help someone else.

[gordo]

Thanks so much.
I'm going to look for that.. It sounds very reasonable based on the QC I have seen so far.

Montanas are not what they used to be...
Gordo