Coroplast fasteners

[jsmith948]

Hello all. I hope someone can help.
Looking around under the 5er yesterday at how I might route power from an inverter to the entertainment/outside kitchen slide. I noticed that the fasteners attaching the Coroplast to the frame look like they were installed with a "Hilti" gun. The same seems to be true for the fasteners used to attach the bedroom floor to the frame in the front storage compartment. The portion of the fastener that is visible from the front compartment looks like a nail - no threads. The heads of these fasteners don't seem to have a hex head that would allow for them to be unscrewed. I was wondering if anyone else has any first hand knowledge/experience with this type of fastener?
I can see how they would speed construction and would eliminate the accidental over torquing and stripping common with self drilling/tapping screws, but, how would one remove these fasteners to gain access to Geo's world?
Thanks in advance for any help from the forum.

[JRTJH]

There were a couple of threads back in 2015 and 2016 about Keystone's use of "nail type fasteners" to secure the coroplast. Most of the "solutions" to gaining access involved grinding the heads off the existing fasteners, lowering the coroplast, cutting the remainder of the fastener at the frame level and when reinstalling, either using self tapping screws with washers on the head or if the "business end" is visible, drilling holes, installing bolts with nylock nuts. I don't remember anyone developing a means to remove the "nail gun fasteners" short of cutting or grinding them off the frame.

[jsmith948]

There were a couple of threads back in 2015 and 2016 about Keystone's use of "nail type fasteners" to secure the coroplast. Most of the "solutions" to gaining access involved grinding the heads off the existing fasteners, lowering the coroplast, cutting the remainder of the fastener at the frame level and when reinstalling, either using self tapping screws with washers on the head or if the "business end" is visible, drilling holes, installing bolts with nylock nuts. I don't remember anyone developing a means to remove the "nail gun fasteners" short of cutting or grinding them off the frame.Thanks for the response. That is what I was thinking. I'm thinking these fasteners are pretty hard. Probably too hard to drill out. Probably best to move over an inch and install a self tapping screw.
Don't like the idea of adding more holes in the flange of the frame.

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[chuckster57]

I use a small crowbar. Get between the frame and coroplast. Put the notch where the “nail” is and use the washer as a pry point. Save the washer and use self taping screws in the same hole.

[jsmith948]

I use a small crowbar. Get between the frame and coroplast. Put the notch where the “nail” is and use the washer as a pry point. Save the washer and use self taping screws in the same hole.Okay ! I'll try that. Not sure yet if I'm going to have to remove the fasteners. Just looking ahead.
Thanks for the tip.

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[Ddubya]

Ditto on the crow bar. Works great

[rhagfo]

I use a small crowbar. Get between the frame and coroplast. Put the notch where the “nail” is and use the washer as a pry point. Save the washer and use self taping screws in the same hole.

Interesting does it take much force to pop them out??

Ours had an open belly when we bought it, but I inclosed it with coroplast and the Mylar foil bubble insulation, I used self drilling hex headed screws with fender washers.

[Ddubya]

Not hard at all to remove. Then replace with self drilling bolts using the same hole.

[Tinner12002]

Interesting does it take much force to pop them out??

Ours had an open belly when we bought it, but I inclosed it with coroplast and the Mylar foil bubble insulation, I used self drilling hex headed screws with fender washers.

Based on what I know about nail gun pins, they don't come out very easily, especially in steel, cutting heads off then cutting the rest of the exposed pin off is about all you can do unless you can get to the backside then you might be able to tap them out.

[JRTJH]

Steve,

I agree with you about nail guns and steel. From what I've experienced, the nail gun "dimples the steel" inward which creates a lip sealing the nail to the steel hole. Pulling it out deforms the steel and, from what happens with me, often snaps off the head or breaks the shank. What I've found most effective, but definitely much more time consuming, is to either grind the head off or cut the shank with a hacksaw/grinder wheel. Then, once the area is clean and the coroplast is down, use a center punch and drive the nail on through. That leaves a cleaner hole and gets rid of the "dissimilar metal" issue which can cause rust/corrosion in the future.

While this is more time consuming and harder to do, it works for me. Honestly, I don't think any of it is really "rocket science" and probably won't make a lot of difference either way (using a crowbar or a grinder) for me, I just don't like extra "stuff" stuck in the frame and I don't like the crushed coroplast from using a pry bar against it. That's just my preference, the coroplast probably isn't hurt or non-functional, it just doesn't look nice when the job is finished.

[chuckster57]

John: the trick is get the pry bar between the frame and the coroplast. It’s already “smashed” by the washer. Use the same washer and a self tapping screw in the same nail hole and it looks “factory” except it’s a screw not a nail.

[JRTJH]

Chuck, I'll try that again next time I run into nails holding the coroplast. Past experience, there isn't enough "shoulder" on the frame rail to approach it and pry it away placing the crowbar "sideways" on the frame (narrow part) and trying to go under the coroplast or under the nail diagonally or along the frame rail isn't possible because the edge of the coroplast gets in the way. Maybe I'm using a crowbar that's too large? I'll "finagle with it" next time. To me, it's just easier to slip a thin cutting wheel under the coroplast, cut the nail and the coroplast just falls away. That leaves a flat nail to hit with a center punch and it leaves a hole the self tapping screw will fit on reassembly.

I'll play around with it again next time. Thanks.

[Tinner12002]

Just as a side note, when purchasing self tapping screws try and find some that are a finer thread design as they will screw into the thicker steel better than the coarse threaded ones and won't be inclined to snap off while trying to thread themselves into the steel.

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/l30AAOSwSdZaPn9H/s-l1600.jpg

[Tinner12002]

Actually this is the one I'm referring to that we used a lot. Made by Buildex. #12/24 x 7/8"

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/uu4AAOSwQPlV-EfV/s-l500.jpg

[Tinner12002]

Either one would work but with the hex head theres less chance of rounding off than with the phillips head. The longer drill bit tip is best as are the finer threads.
And that concludes my sheet metal lesson for today! Lol!