Washer drain in Carbon 357

[Nursiegrl]

Hi, these are probably dumb (2) questions, but it seems that my washer drains into my rear black tank. Question #1, why?? Why would a company drain a washer into a limited capacity black tank and not into gray or directly to the termination valve??
Question #2- is there any way to reroute where the washer drains?
Thank you for any help or tips you can give this Newbie!

[Tinner12002]

If your washer drain is in the garage then the black tank is closest. I've not checked but I would imagine mine is set to drain the same way. My kitchen drain is the only thing that drains into my second gray. Rerouting is always possible but the elevation of each may not allow it.

[notanlines]

Just a thought here, but if it really bothers you that much then cut the connection to the grey tank, seal it off and build your own leading to a second
"termination valve." Granted you would have no holding tank for the washer, but not many campers I know wash clothes when they are boondocking.

[chuckster57]

If your TH has a bathroom in the garage, then there isn’t enough space underneath for another holding tank.

[mikz86ta]

Ours has 2 gray and 2 black. Has a bath and half, full kitchen and washer in garage. They drain the washer to the rear black.
I think it's not such a bad thing. We seldom use rear toilet, as I think most do. For us full time living and we use the washer ( Splendid 710xc ) about every day she to its small capacity. The blacks fill at about the same rate. And one benefit as well,, the detergents in the wash waste water cleans the rear black tank well. The rear black tank sensors seldom get 'hung up'on the level indications

[dcg9381]

I've got the 327. Two gray tanks, one black. It drains into the rear gray tank.. Basically whatever tank is closest and cheapest.

Assuming you're not actually using the rear bathroom, just put a valve on the output of your drain, open the black tank, open the gray tank... essentially you've got more capacity.

[Nursiegrl]

Good idea. I don't know how to add a valve, but it is worth looking into.

[Nursiegrl]

So which tank is black 1 and which is black 2? I emptied them both but the light indicators say one tank is still 2/3 full. Why would it do that? Is there anything I can do to fix it?

[Nursiegrl]

I would love to do that but first off it is out of my expertise, second I dont want to void a warranty.

[ctbruce]

You probably have a piece of toity paper hanging on a sensor. 3 things to do:
1. Use more water when you flush.
2. Use the black tank flush to fill and empty till clear.
3. When you pull out, add several gall OK ns to the black tank and some Dawn. The agitation of rolling down the road will help clean the sides.

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[ctbruce]

Hi, these are probably dumb (2) questions, but it seems that my washer drains into my rear black tank. Question #1, why?? Why would a company drain a washer into a limited capacity black tank and not into gray or directly to the termination valve??
Question #2- is there any way to reroute where the washer drains?
Thank you for any help or tips you can give this Newbie!This is a bad thing? Either open your valve while doing the wash or keep an eye on it and dump when needed. Either way would work in this situation.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

[travelin texans]

So which tank is black 1 and which is black 2? I emptied them both but the light indicators say one tank is still 2/3 full. Why would it do that? Is there anything I can do to fix it?

Tank sensors are notorious for being so inaccurate after the 1st fill or 2 to the point of being completely useless. Not much will help to make them accurate, yea you could use so called "sensor cleaners", magic elixirs, flushing with clear water til blue in the face, but they will still be inaccurate as soon as filled again.

[PARAPTOR]

Think this is an open topic on the forum, ie have heard of washer drain running into a tank either Black or Gray and also bypassing the tanks going directly to the terminal outlet. My washer drain goes into the galley gray tank. As previously stated if the washer drain runs into a holding tank I would definitely monitor it when washing. If the drain did bypass the holding tank(s) and you where dry camping ( no Sewer hookup) they only way to use that washer I guess would be to run the wash water onto the ground. If you do a search you will find the various combinations

[mikz86ta]

Also you may need to do the flush with the black tank flush system they have installed on it. If applicable.....
Our 1 year old new to us Fuzion has the flush system. And the front black tank always showed full. Every other tank drain, I do the flush system. It gets us down to 1/3 on the indicator for front and will help the rear black tank and we'll go full empty.
I also started doing the GEO Method. Google it.

[Tinner12002]

So which tank is black 1 and which is black 2? I emptied them both but the light indicators say one tank is still 2/3 full. Why would it do that? Is there anything I can do to fix it?

Have you tried doing the black tank rinse, that hookup could be in your convenience center, or just on the drivers side of your RV. Hook up a hose to it and turn water on and watch water coming out of your sewer pipe. Some people close the main tank valve and let tank fill for a couple minutes before opening the valve to drain. Keystone doesn't recommend doing that for fear of overfilling the tank and busting it. So if you decide to fill tank some be watchful of how much is in it. Hopefully you have a clear fitting on it so as to monitor whats coming out when you do pull the valve open.
You may have to wash it a couple times to clear the sensors.

[Tinner12002]

I don't know what year RV you have but looking at a couple online I'm guessing your tank wash is in your convenience center as I don't see anything else on the side where they could be. I didn't see anything mentioned about them so its possible your doesn't have the black tank wash.

[dcg9381]

I would love to do that but first off it is out of my expertise, second I dont want to void a warranty.

As your warranty is only 12-months, I don't know that this is a big deal.
And contrary to some rumors, modification of one component cannot void the warranty of an unrelated component. That is, if the front cap falls off your RV, they can't blame it on re-routing of tank plumbing... (ref: Magnuson Moss warranty act ). However, modification of the tank plumbing might void a warranty on the tank or plumbing leaks...

[notanlines]

"you were dry camping ( no Sewer hookup) the only way to use that washer I guess would be to run the wash water onto the ground" Dear Lord in heaven above, do NOT empty wash water or sink water onto the ground. Going behind a tree and visiting the coffee repository is just fine, but the tree huggers will have you drawn and quartered if dish water were to touch mother earth. :eek:

[chuckster57]

Tank sensors are notorious for being so inaccurate after the 1st fill or 2 to the point of being completely useless. Not much will help to make them accurate, yea you could use so called "sensor cleaners", magic elixirs, flushing with clear water til blue in the face, but they will still be inaccurate as soon as filled again.


Funny how this statement is made numerous times. Mine have always worked and been accurate since my first trailer in 1989. Proper use and maintenance is all that is needed. As posted in this thread, lots of water when flushing, use of dissolving TP and a good rinsing will keep them working.

ALL the used RV’s I have gotten ready for resale have been either working properly, or I have used sensor cleaner and/or tissue digester to get them to read properly again. Gray tanks may need a different “treatment”, but even those have been good to go when sold.