Water heater question

[Brianj7045]

I'm new to TT's so this is probably a pretty easy question. I was told that on my first trip after have winterized my trailer, to fill water in water heater before turning it on. Is this as simple as just filling my fresh water tank or do I need to do something else? Also, will my water pump turn on by itself? Thanks in advance.

[ctbruce]

You can hook to city water and avoid the pump or you can fill fresh water tank and use the pump. Either will accomplish the same thing.

Yes you have to turn the water pump switch on, then it will activate when you open a faucet or it senses a drop in water pressure

If your unit was winterized then the water heater bypass valve is probably turned to bypass. The water heater WILL NOT fill in this position and will have to be turned out of bypass. The valve will be on the back of the water heater.

Hope this helps. Are you goin camping? It's easier this time of year to leave it winterized if you can.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

[Brianj7045]

Thanks Chip. I am not going camping quite yet, probably wait till March or so. I winterized myself and I don't think I turned any bypass switches so it should just fill up when I put water in tank. Thanks again for the reply.

[JRTJH]

If you winterized without closing the bypass valve and you used RV antifreeze in the plumbing lines, then you have RV antifreeze in the water heater. The "pink stuff" is corrosive to the tank lining and will cause problems in years to come. Whether it's 3 years or 13 years is anybody's bet...... I'd urge you, if you used antifreeze, to consider closing the bypass valve and flushing the water heater with fresh water to rinse any antifreeze from the tank.

[Brianj7045]

So, since I didn't do anything with the valve, just put fresh water in my fresh water tank and then run hot water to flush? Then re-winterize? Sorry for the confusion...

[JRTJH]

The easiest way to flush the water heater and not disturb any of the other plumbing in the trailer would be to remove the anode rod, place a cut end of a 1/2" hose into the anode opening and run fresh water until it runs clear. I'd probably flush it for about 5 minutes to be sure all the antifreeze is out of the water heater tank. Then, wrap the anode rod threads with fresh Teflon tape and reinstall. Don't forget to close the bypass valve on the back of the water heater or when you flush your plumbing lines in the spring, all of the cold water line antifreeze that's "ahead of the water heater inlet" will divert through the water heater and you'll have problems running enough water to flush all of that antifreeze out of the water heater tank.

With the bypass valve in the winterize position, water will divert to the hot water lines and not enter the water heater. That will make it much easier to flush all the antifreeze out of the lines in the spring.

If I were you, and the lines are winterized, I'd just isolate the water heater (by closing the bypass valve). I wouldn't "reinvent winterizing" and redo all of what's already done......

The bypass valve is located on the back of the water heater, on the lower (inlet) fitting. It is a 1/4 turn fitting. One position diverts water INTO the water heater and turning it 1/4 turn diverts water AWAY from the water heater and back into the hot water lines. There is a one way valve in the top fitting (outlet) from the water heater, so water will not backflow into the tank.

Here is a picture of the back of a typical water heater, the bypass valve is in the lower fitting that is at the extreme bottom of the upright tube that's just to the right of the water heater inlet fitting.

[Bisjoe]

On mine the water heater is behind a wooden panel below the stereo system, with 6 screws holding it on.

[ken56]

You tube is a great source for instructional videos. Its not difficult to winterize/dewinterize but it does involve a procedure that you need to understand and follow. For the most part the bypass valves will be in some place you will have to stand on your head and bend yourself in half to get to. OK, so I exaggerate....but they are usually right behind the water heater and behind an access panel or behind a drawer or something that you will have to remove to access them.

Its essential to have water in the water heater before you turn it on because it will burn out the heating element quickly if its not surrounded by water. The propane side would still work though I believe so you would still have hot water.

[kircin]

We don’t seem to have any leaks and the tt is new so why would the water heater keep running after the water is scorching hot? Thanks

[JRTJH]

We don’t seem to have any leaks and the tt is new so why would the water heater keep running after the water is scorching hot? Thanks

The OEM thermostat is typically a 130F thermostat. "Scorching hot" is a subjective temperature and may/may not be 130F. So, it may be "scorching hot and still running" because the temperature is at 125F and not yet hot enough. This is the "most likely cause" I can think of.

If you think the thermostat is not functioning, then the next step would be to measure the temperature of the water to see if it's above 130F. My guess is that the system is working. Trust me when I say, "130F is damn hot when you stick your finger under the faucet"...

[Wxman]

Not sure what heater OP has, but my Atwood is factory set at 140 degrees according to manual and yes that is nearly scalding at the kitchen sink (nearest faucet). If I had youngsters using the camper I might be looking for an adjustable thermostat retrofit.