No hot water

[5th_Wheelin]

I picked the 5er up from the deslership yesterday. It had been there for some minor warranty work. The unit is brand new. Just got setup at the campsite a few hours ago and flipped the switch for electric water heater. DW went to wash her hands after 2ish hous and no hot water. Didn't even get Luke warm water. The dealership did winterize the unit while they had it due to some cold weather. Could the hot water heater be bypassed? That's really the only thing I can come up with at the moment.

[KHBama]

There is a bypass switch on our Laredo outside underneath the water heater.

[ctbruce]

It could be bypassed, yes. Are you sure it has water in it? Pop the emergency valve slightly to see if there is water in it. If not, un-bypass it. If your electric element was on with no water in it, it most likely burned out.

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[5th_Wheelin]

So, the hex nut thing shown in the bottom here was pulled out. I reinstalled it. But I still don't see any type of switch labeled "bypass".

[chuckster57]

If I’m seeing right. To the left of that plastic oval cover is the switch to allow the heating element to work. It is installed “UPSIDE DOWN” meaning it’s opposite of what your used to. Make sure it’s in the down position.

[5th_Wheelin]

Here is a better picture of what I'm seeing. I've also tried cracking the brass valve on top and nothing but a little bit of steam came out.

Also, all of the photos seem to be rotated for some reason.

[chuckster57]

Yup! Make sure the switch is in the “ON” position. Looks like it is. The bypass valve might be on the backside of the tank. You may have to remove a panel to access the back of the water heater.

[5th_Wheelin]

It's on the 'ON' position. But for the life of me I still can't get any water to come through the relief valve.

What am I missing?

[chuckster57]

Turn the electric OFF. Let it cool for a few minutes, before you look for the bypass valve.

[sourdough]

If you opened the pressure valve and all you got was steam...you need to 1) turn off the power, 2) let it cool, 3) find the bypass valve and set it correctly, 4) let it fill then 5) turn the power back on. Sounds like you have been trying to heat up an empty tank, hopefully the element is not ruined.

[5th_Wheelin]

Done. I'll let it sit for about 30 min and see again. I just figured with water being pushed through the system, cracking the relief valve would vent any air in the system followed by a constant stream of water.

One question though, the 4-5" rod with the hex top that I screwed back in that is pictured on the bottom, what was that?

Thank you for your help!

[rhagfo]

Well if you had the power on For even 30 seconds or so without water in the tank, you might use gas for heating the water this trip until you get a replacement electrical element.

[5th_Wheelin]

Damn it! Hahahahaha

Fingers crossed that it's not an expensive part.

[ctbruce]

It's not bad cost wise. The bar you took out was the anode rod.

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[chuckster57]

Damn it! Hahahahaha

Fingers crossed that it's not an expensive part.


As stated it’s not expensive, but takes an 1 1/2” socket to remove it. I got mine from AutoZone and had to sand down the outer diameter of the socket so it fit past the housing.

[5th_Wheelin]

So, I just can't leave anything alone. I crawled into the basement storage area and pulled the access panel behind where the city water connection is. I traced down the blue piping, and sure enough right behind the water heater, is a small plastic valve that diverts water from going into the water heater. Gave it a quarter turn and you could hear the water moving into the water heater tank. I crawled out and checked the pressure relief valve and water came pouring out. Back into the unit to run the faucets until all the air was out of the system. I know it's a probably not gonna work, but I turned the electric back on and will see if it's still working in 30 min or so. If not I'll just run off gas for this trip and order a replacement electric element.

Thanks again for your suggestions everyone!!! Now back to relaxing.

[sourdough]

Great! You found the valve so that will get you hot water....cross your fingers that the element wasn't burned up. If it still works I would buy a replacement to keep on hand because the other one may die at any time.

[travelin texans]

Go to most home improvement store & get the element removal tool, probably cheaper than a socket.

[bobbecky]

I'd order one of these sockets, no modification needed to pull and install the heater element. https://www.amazon.com/Camco-09883-Residential-Screw-Element/dp/B0006IX896/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_263_bs_lp_img_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=9C8YM41DAB24Q7KS9N5Q

The element for the Suburban water heater is probably this one. https://www.amazon.com/Suburban-520900-120V-Electric-Element/dp/B004RCXD0G/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1514013394&sr=8-2&keywords=suburban+water+heater+element

[chuckster57]

That is a little cheaper than my socket.

[notanlines]

So there! Where else can someone get this kind of help as fast as y'all supplied the info? And so cheap also.....:D

[flybouy]

I'd order one of these sockets, no modification needed to pull and install the heater element. https://www.amazon.com/Camco-09883-Residential-Screw-Element/dp/B0006IX896/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_263_bs_lp_img_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=9C8YM41DAB24Q7KS9N5Q

The element for the Suburban water heater is probably this one. https://www.amazon.com/Suburban-520900-120V-Electric-Element/dp/B004RCXD0G/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1514013394&sr=8-2&keywords=suburban+water+heater+element
I bought the same to remove mine but the cheap socket split and element wouldn't budge. Order this one for <$12 https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Professional-Heater-Element-Socket/dp/B00361V162/ref=pd_sbs_263_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=GNRHPTNE723DA915P310

[JimQ]

Way to go guys with advise. That's why this forum is amazing!

[chuckster57]

I bought the same to remove mine but the cheap socket split and element wouldn't budge. Order this one for <$12 https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Professional-Heater-Element-Socket/dp/B00361V162/ref=pd_sbs_263_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=GNRHPTNE723DA915P310



That one is more than mine was.

[travelin texans]

If you use that hefty socket don't go Incredible Hulk & over tighten, the element has a rubber gasket & if crushed will never stop leaking, tighten snug, check for leaks & tighten a bit more if necessary. Might add a dab of plumbers grease (found at most hardware stores) to the gasket to keep it from trying to twist out while tightening.
Another thing to check. My Suburban water heater quit heating & found under the black reset cover for the 2 thermostats (1-120 volt & 1-12 volt) that the wires had gotten pinched between the cover & tank & had shorted burning the wires off the thermostat. I repaired the wires, replaced the thermostat, trimmed the cover a 1/4", & folded the metal lip down a bit, no more problems.
Also the anode should be checked periodically & depending on water quality & usage may need replaced annually, I always carry a spare.

[RV802]

The bypass valve on my Bullet Premier was hard to find and hard to reach once I found it. I Removed a Panel near the floor in bathroom that also holds a heat duct. Way inside on the back of the water heater I found an unmarked valve that I wrestled with a bit before I could turn it. Sure enough, it was the bypass.