Slipping Compartment locks

[Scout179]

My first post so please forgive if I don't "get it right". The keyed locks on most of my compartments rotate after locking, with very little effort. I tightened them, but with a little more effort, they slip. Is there a cure for this or is it just acceptable as unfixable? I tried doing a "search" and found lots of other problems, but nothing that directly addressed this problem.

[ctbruce]

Are they hard to turn with the key to unlock? Mine only do this when my lock is out of alignment.

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[bsmith0404]

What exactly do you mean by slipping? Are the locks turning and opening on their own through vibration? If that is the case, you can try adding an extra weather seal on the door to create a tighter fit and more pressure on the lock. Another option is to slightly bend the tab to give it a tighter fit. If you do that, I suggest pulling the tab off the lock first to make sure you don’t damage the lock when.

[Scout179]

NO, the locks are not opening on their own. They are just useless. They turn, just as those with non-locked fasteners do, so no key is necessary to get into the compartment.

[bsmith0404]

NO, the locks are not opening on their own. They are just useless. They turn, just as those with non-locked fasteners do, so no key is necessary to get into the compartment.

How do they turn without a key? There isn’t anything to turn them with? Is the entire lock turning in the door or is it just the locking mechanism that is turning? The door home should have a square side on it that aligns with the flat side ignoring the shank to parent it from turning in the door.

[jkohler70]

Put some Loctite on the threads for the nut on the back.

[Scout179]

If I had more skill, I would post a photo of the lock. The lock face is not flat, but has a finger lift below the lock. With very little difficulty, that finger lift will turn the entire lock. You can then open the compartment, without the need of a key. I haven't taken it completely apart yet, but I don't believe it has a "flat" side to keep the lock from turning. Perhaps that is my problem; no flat side, just a round hole. I will go investigate further now that I have some idea what to look for.

[SteveC7010]

(Note, I am not being a curmudgeon here, but just straight forward about the topic.)

The compartment locks that use a CH751 key are really nothing more than a latch with a removable handle. They provide no meaningful protection against theft or unauthorized entry into the compartment. Almost every RV manufacturer on the North American continent uses the same product. So everyone who has or had an RV probably has one or more CH751 keys and can get into every unit in a campground.

What a properly installed CH751 lock assembly will do is keep the compartment closed while you're on the road and generally prevent someone walking by from getting in by just turning a latch. Any flat blade screwdriver will beat that of course, but if it is locked and the perpetrator doesn't have a screwdriver or a CH751 key, they may just move on to easier pickings.

As far as securely locking your compartments, swapping out the lock and probably the whole assembly for something that is better made and a reasonably unique key is the way to go.

On some CH751 assemblies there may be a clip on the inside of the lock installation that is supposed to prevent the entire assembly from spinning. If that is missing, your local RV parts counter might be able to help.

If the hole in the compartment door doesn't have the flat that prevents the lock from spinning, you could add a plate with the "D" hole on the inside of the door and secure it to the door with several screws.

[chuckster57]

(Note, I am not being a curmudgeon here, but just straight forward about the topic.)

The compartment locks that use a CH751 key are really nothing more than a latch with a removable handle. They provide no meaningful protection against theft or unauthorized entry into the compartment. Almost every RV manufacturer on the North American continent uses the same product. So everyone who has or had an RV probably has one or more CH751 keys and can get into every unit in a campground.

What a properly installed CH751 lock assembly will do is keep the compartment closed while you're on the road and generally prevent someone walking by from getting in by just turning a latch. Any flat blade screwdriver will beat that of course, but if it is locked and the perpetrator doesn't have a screwdriver or a CH751 key, they may just move on to easier pickings.

As far as securely locking your compartments, swapping out the lock and probably the whole assembly for something that is better made and a reasonably unique key is the way to go.

On some CH751 assemblies there may be a clip on the inside of the lock installation that is supposed to prevent the entire assembly from spinning. If that is missing, your local RV parts counter might be able to help.

If the hole in the compartment door doesn't have the flat that prevents the lock from spinning, you could add a plate with the "D" hole on the inside of the door and secure it to the door with several screws.


We see the holes in the doors rounded out all the time. Using the pull tab on the inside is a good idea, haven’t thought of that. Thanks for the suggestion.

[fatcatzzz]

Maybe try something like these spur washers. They will keep the cam lock from turning.
http://www.mrlock.com/esp-spur-washer-for-cam-lock-pr-07
This link is from a bing search, you might find them at any rv parts supply.

[Scout179]

Thanks for all the GREAT ideas! I think SteveC7010 correctly understood and resolved the problem. I had already decided to disasemble the lock and remove the flat sides from the finger lift, so it would turn rather than the lock turning with it and while picking up some other parts today, I picked up 4 2"x2" metal backer plates. The plan is to drill and then file an opening to match the flat sided lock. Fatcat zzz's link was great too! I can "secure" the compartments with keyed alike upgrades that can only be opened by a screwdriver or key. Much better then where I am now; and they had ready to use backer plates for about a buck a piece. Thanks for all the input guys. This is what I was expecting when I joined yesterday!