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View Full Version : Adding a vented range hood to 199ML


jayhart
10-30-2017, 03:05 PM
My 2018 199ML came with a non-vented range hood, which I believe is the case with many new units. Unfortunately, if one cooks bacon or other fried foods on the range, the smoke alarm goes off. Also of concern is the eventual coating of interior walls with cooking residue and grease. Since the unit is small in area I felt that installing a vented hood to be the way to go.
I cut out a rectangular access hole, installed the thru-the-wall vent cover and formed an aluminum 'duct' to connect a new, vented hood with the outside vent cover assy.
All works fine and there was no problem with the installation (once I was certain I wouldn't be cutting through an aluminum frame member), but I read the other day about the need to seal the laminated wall to prevent moisture absorbance and future delamination of the fiberglass. I don't expect it will be too big of an issue to remove the outside vent cover assy. in order to access the wall section where my cutout is but is it really necessary and with what should I seal the edges of the access hole?

Sailorpat1954
10-30-2017, 03:52 PM
My 2018 199ML came with a non-vented range hood, which I believe is the case with many new units. Unfortunately, if one cooks bacon or other fried foods on the range, the smoke alarm goes off. Also of concern is the eventual coating of interior walls with cooking residue and grease. Since the unit is small in area I felt that installing a vented hood to be the way to go.
I cut out a rectangular access hole, installed the thru-the-wall vent cover and formed an aluminum 'duct' to connect a new, vented hood with the outside vent cover assy.
All works fine and there was no problem with the installation (once I was certain I wouldn't be cutting through an aluminum frame member), but I read the other day about the need to seal the laminated wall to prevent moisture absorbance and future delamination of the fiberglass. I don't expect it will be too big of an issue to remove the outside vent cover assy. in order to access the wall section where my cutout is but is it really necessary and with what should I seal the edges of the access hole?



From my experience working on sailboats. You do need to seal the fiberglass after cutting the hole. Get some two part epoxy give it at least 2 coats to stop moisture from getting to the glass and causing delaminate over time.

Again that is how I was taught on boats. I would think fiberglass RVS would be the same.

Let’s see what more experienced RV guys say

Pat and Deb
Dearborn Mi


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

SteveC7010
10-30-2017, 04:54 PM
My 2018 199ML came with a non-vented range hood, which I believe is the case with many new units. Unfortunately, if one cooks bacon or other fried foods on the range, the smoke alarm goes off. Also of concern is the eventual coating of interior walls with cooking residue and grease. Since the unit is small in area I felt that installing a vented hood to be the way to go.
I cut out a rectangular access hole, installed the thru-the-wall vent cover and formed an aluminum 'duct' to connect a new, vented hood with the outside vent cover assy.
All works fine and there was no problem with the installation (once I was certain I wouldn't be cutting through an aluminum frame member), but I read the other day about the need to seal the laminated wall to prevent moisture absorbance and future delamination of the fiberglass. I don't expect it will be too big of an issue to remove the outside vent cover assy. in order to access the wall section where my cutout is but is it really necessary and with what should I seal the edges of the access hole?
When you mounted the vent cover on the outside of the trailer, did you use a butyl caulk or putty tape in the same manner that everything else is mounted on the outside walls? If you did, I doubt that any kind of sealant is needed on the cut edges of the filon. FWIW, if you pull any other item that is fastened to the outside like a tail light, you won't find any special fiberglass sealant on the edges, just the butyl putty caulk.

ptooti
10-30-2017, 06:43 PM
off topic but im curious how did you find out where the frame members are located? it could come in handy to know (once I was certain I wouldn't be cutting through an aluminum frame member) Thanks

chuckster57
10-30-2017, 06:55 PM
off topic but im curious how did you find out where the frame members are located? it could come in handy to know (once I was certain I wouldn't be cutting through an aluminum frame member) Thanks


If the sidewalls are vacuum bonded, you can cut through a frame member. When we install washer/dryers, we seem to hit framework more often than not.

Vacuum bonded are filon on the outside and the entire sidewall is a single piece.

jayhart
10-31-2017, 03:46 AM
I was told by the techs at my place of purchase to use a stud finder. It actually worked!

jayhart
10-31-2017, 03:47 AM
Thanks for the tip! It was bad enough cutting a hole in my new toy so cutting a frame member wasn't on my list of fun ideas...

jayhart
10-31-2017, 03:51 AM
I used butyl tape to seal the cover. Is the moisture that might be present from inside the trailer critical? Obviously, not the same as direct weather exposure.
I have seen the lack of serious sealing where many trailer accessories are mounted so am inclined to agree with your analysis.
Thank you.

bdaniel
10-31-2017, 04:57 AM
I did a stove vent and outside shower many years ago. To find the metal studs I outlined the hole I wanted to make on the luan wood on the inside. I then used a flat screwdriver to punch through the thin luan wood from the inside to make sure there was no metal studs in the area where I wanted to cut.


http://www.bobbystuff.com/rv/39/outside-shower
http://www.bobbystuff.com/rv/31/stove-hood-exhaust-vent


Bobby

jayhart
10-31-2017, 07:20 AM
Thanks for your ideas on finding alum studs. If the stud finder had not worked, I would have used s similar method.

J