Hot water is not very hot

[innermusic]

Does anyone know how to adjust the hot water temperature on the Cougar 318 SAB?

[notanlines]

Your water heater has two thermostats, one for the electric side and one for the propane side. These are both at a preset temperature. They are both easily accessible. On the front of your unit where you can see the gas workings, there are two reset buttons. The thermostats are located under those buttons. Remove the four screws (after unplugging your trailer) to expose the thermostats and remove the one servicing the 110V side. You can read the part number and look it up online. Simply jump to the next highest number. Cost at a dealership is probably $20.00. Online they can be had for $10. Make sure when you reinstall the thermostat that the surfaces are sanded down a little to insure no corrosion between it and the tank.

[concours]

I did the exact same thing last year. We had a heating element that failed after I replaced it the thermostat re set would trip every few days when I went to the RV supply store they recommended to use a higher temp thermostat which I did and we have never regretted it. I think that the original is a lower setting for safety and liability issues

[earlzach]

Not sure if this will help you but do you have an outside shower? If so go check to be certain the knobs are shut off. If it's only off at the wand end this will cause or should I say can cause your cold and hot waters to blend only letting you get warm water inside.

[ike66]

Same thing happened to me until I realized I forgot to shut the bypass valve after the winter.


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[JRTJH]

I'd make a guess that it's probably the thermostat, but since we're "in the mode" of making alternative suggestions like outside shower faucet valve settings and winterization valve position, there's a possibility that the one way valve at the water heater outlet may be stuck.

The winterization system is composed of a 3-way valve at the bottom (water heater inlet) and a one way (backflow preventer) valve at the outlet at the top of the water heater. There is a "vertical bypass tube" that connects the 3-way valve to the output of the one way valve, isolating the water heater during "bypass"..... That one way valve at the top of the water heater must open freely to allow hot water out of the water heater while closing freely to prevent backflow into the water heater when winterized. A common problem with water heater "less than hot water output" is calcification of that one way valve. If it gets "sticky" it won't open fully it can cause the water at all the faucets to be insufficiently hot. So if changing the thermostat doesn't fix the problem, I'd look at the back of the water heater, on the top outlet. You'll find a PEX tube connected to a "brass and plastic" fitting. That's the one way valve.

[Javi]

I'd make a guess that it's probably the thermostat, but since we're "in the mode" of making alternative suggestions like outside shower faucet valve settings and winterization valve position, there's a possibility that the one way valve at the water heater outlet may be stuck.

The winterization system is composed of a 3-way valve at the bottom (water heater inlet) and a one way (backflow preventer) valve at the outlet at the top of the water heater. There is a "vertical bypass tube" that connects the 3-way valve to the output of the one way valve, isolating the water heater during "bypass"..... That one way valve at the top of the water heater must open freely to allow hot water out of the water heater while closing freely to prevent backflow into the water heater when winterized. A common problem with water heater "less than hot water output" is calcification of that one way valve. If it gets "sticky" it won't open fully it can cause the water at all the faucets to be insufficiently hot. So if changing the thermostat doesn't fix the problem, I'd look at the back of the water heater, on the top outlet. You'll find a PEX tube connected to a "brass and plastic" fitting. That's the one way valve.

And the main reason I "FIX" it on every trailer as soon as I get home from the dealer... by going to a 3 valve system and isolating the hot side from the cold side; it's nearly as foolproof as you can get, and worked for years before the trailer manufacturers found a "BETTER" way... (read cheaper)

[JRTJH]

And the main reason I "FIX" it on every trailer as soon as I get home from the dealer... by going to a 3 valve system and isolating the hot side from the cold side; it's nearly as foolproof as you can get, and worked for years before the trailer manufacturers found a "BETTER" way... (read cheaper)

Yup, Yup. Same for me. Sometimes the "new way of doing it" just isn't as reliable as "the old way'..... Seems to me, that's the situation with this "new fangdangled single valve system"......