30 Amp to 50

[Travler]

Just thought I would run this by some of you. I have been thinking of changing my 5th wheel over from 30 amp to 50 amp. Is this going to be costly. What I can determine is new convertor and cable outside. Any thoughts or concerns. It just would be nice to not have to shut down air to turn on Micro wave and fry pan. Just thinking out loud..

[brad2388]

The converte will be ok.

Youll need a 50 amp connector outside as well as the new main panel inside. As well as the main power cable feeding the new panel.


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[ctbruce]

Are you an astute electrician? This can be a process not for the timid. Others will chime in, but think this through all the way.

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[chuckster57]

Can I ask WHY? if your going to run a second AC then even after you add the second leg, you will still have to get the 110VAC to the second vent, and 12VDC for the thermostat.

Other than that there is no gain to changing to 50A service IMO.

[mfifield01]

Even though I have one AC, I wish I had 50A service. In the past, I've had to tell the DW to remember to turn things off. The breaker outside has tripped (and been very hot) numerous times. It's typically the AC, electric water heater, and microwave combined that pull too much power. You have to pick 2 of the 3 appliances at once.

[brad2388]

Yea when you go to 50 amp service your actually getting 100 amps of 110 power.
Youll have two hot legs of 50 amps each.


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[Travler]

Yes...that is the exact reason why I thought about doing this

[AJFoyt]

I have a Raptor 398TS with 3 A/C’s. They cannot all run simultaneously and must cycle with only 2 on at a time. I have had gooseneck with 30Amp and a single A/C as well and it is a pain keeping below the generator breaker Max load with floor heater being the big issue. It seems the 50A service solves those issues. I concur with the others about upgrading.

[Pmedic4]

It can be done, just know it will cost about $400 to $500, if you buy a cheap converter (probably brand that is installed in your RV) and do it yourself.

You can buy a lot of propane to run the water heater, if that's the primary issue.

Another thing you can do, is some campgrounds have a separate 20 amp circuit on the post, and you can run an extension cord to run a few other high consumption items.

Frustrating part of doing this, is you'll then end up at a site which only has 30 amp service! GRRRR!

[Brentw]

Not sure why you would need to change your convertor, your 12v load is not going to change. But you will have to change your main elect dist panel and all upstream wiring/ connectors.
Yep, if she can't get it figured, I'd be running HWT on propane rather than take that project on.

[Pull Toy]

Much less expensive option... Think about using a heavy duty extension cord for the microwave, and as already mentioned, propane hot water is cheaper too.

The microwave is already equipped with a three prong plug, just run the cord out a convenient window, or add an access port, and plug it into the pedestal.

Good Luck,

[Roscommon48]

if you really want 50amp buy a trailer with 50amp....a lot easier.

[xrated]

I've been a Journeyman Electrician since 1980, and even though I have the skills and knowledge to undertake a job like that...I would probably have to be pretty desperate to actually do it. The reason I say this is because of the trailer itself. Trailers are almost NEVER easy to work on or access certain areas. It's not something that I would look forward to, I can assure you of that. You may be a lot younger, more agile, more enthusiastic than I, so it might work out for you, but on the other hand, you do need to know exactly what you are doing on a project of this nature.

[66joej]

A fellow member on this forum did a neat job of fabricating an extra 20 amp outlet through the trailer wall to hook into the park pedestal.

[JRTJH]

It's very easy to locate a place on most trailers where you can install a MARINCO 20 amp inlet, run a short piece of 12 ga ROMEX to an old work box and install a duplex outlet in the box. When you need additional power for a heater or an appliance, just plug in a suitable extension cord into the 20 amp socket on the campground pole, the other end into the MARINCO inlet and the plug is ready to "take on that extra load".

Even if you're trying to power an air conditioner, using that type plug to connect your "extra power" to the campground outlet is much cheaper and less work than removing the power center, rewiring the 120 VAC and 12 VDC distribution systems in the trailer, buying a "heavier/bulkier/harder to handle" 50 amp power cord and still not having adequate trailer wiring to fully use the additional power.

You can only plug in so many items in a 2 circuit breaker system (which is the way most 30 amp RV's are wired). There's 20 amps for the A/C, 15 amps for the water heater, 20 amps for the microwave, 15 amps for the GFCI and 15 amps for the REC/CON (receptacles/converter). Without some significant rewiring, there's just no way to use 100 amps of power in those available circuits without overloading breakers. Adding circuits is usually very difficult, given the location of the power center and construction of sidewalls, so everything must go up to the ceiling or down to the belly to be routed. Not an easy task.

Gain 20 amps with this, it'll usually give most 30 amp RV's all the extra power they need.

[Snoking]

Going to 50AMP shore power one should include in the cost a 50 surge protector. Hardwired is best. Our little Laredo 225 came with 50 service and I installed a PI HW surge protector.

The 50amp shore cable is a monster to handle. On you SOB 5th wheel we have a power reel which makes the 50amp cable much easier to deal with.

On our old Cardinal, I installed a Marinco inlet like pictured above, and routed the power to the back of the water heater, where I installed two female and one male cord caps allow the water heater to be plugged in separate from the 30 service when a second outlet was available on the pole pole.

[rhagfo]

Much less expensive option... Think about using a heavy duty extension cord for the microwave, and as already mentioned, propane hot water is cheaper too.

The microwave is already equipped with a three prong plug, just run the cord out a convenient window, or add an access port, and plug it into the pedestal.

Good Luck,

I always love the Red Neck look!
No need to replace the converter, it is simply plugged into a 120 volt outlet. You will need a new distribution panel a length of 3/6 with ground, new outside reciptical, and new shore cable.

[cookinwitdiesel]

What is the 3/6 with ground for? The rest I get.

Thanks!

[chuckster57]

What is the 3/6 with ground for? The rest I get.

Thanks!



I believe it’s 3 conductor with a ground (4 wires) that are 6 gauge.

50A RV cord will have 4 separate wires.
Black: hot-line 1
Red: hot-line 2
White: neutral
Bare: ground.

Black and red can be reversed.

[cookinwitdiesel]

He already had a new shore cable listed separately, hence my confusion. Shore cable would bring that 4 conductor connection right into the distribution center no?

[chuckster57]

His shore cord now is only 3 wire 30A. One suggestion was to run a second 30A shore cord.

[rhagfo]

What is the 3/6 with ground for? The rest I get.

Thanks!

I believe it’s 3 conductor with a ground (4 wires) that are 6 gauge.

50A RV cord will have 4 separate wires.
Black: hot-line 1
Red: hot-line 2
White: neutral
Bare: ground.

Black and red can be reversed.

Chuck, that is correct it is the the connecting wire from the exterior power connection to the distribution panel.

To the OP, had a member on another forum do this, and replaced the distribution panel and wiring to exterior connection. He already has 35' of 4/6 SOOW power cord, so just needed the ends for the cable.
You will fine that using SOOW power cord is MUCH easier to handle and store.