any 318sab owners out there

[hitchikerman]

I have a quick question...just recieved this newer unit and was wondering how you winterize it...2012 318sab

[MarkS]

I have a quick question...just recieved this newer unit and was wondering how you winterize it...2012 318sab



Hitchikerman, I have a 2014 318sab. Is there something in particular that you are wondering about? Winterization is pretty much the same as other trailers. You have to access the water heater bypass and water pump from the basement. If you have the black tank spray, it is a good idea to blow it out.

I live in a cold climate, so I over winterize by using compressed air to blow everything out. Then I pump the RV antifreeze until I get pink at all the faucets and into the toilet. Don’t forget the outside shower faucet. I also pull the batteries out, and store inside. I use a cover to block UV and help with ice dams.

[jerseyphil]

Hi Hitchikerman,
I have a 2011 Cougar 318SAB. I have always used air pressure to blow out the water lines. To do this, you need a blow-out fitting. Also you will need 2 gallons of RV anti-freeze for the traps and toilet. I recommend Propylene Glycol based anti-freeze. it is a little more expensive, but better for rubber and fittings.

1. Put the blow-out fitting in the black tank flush point. Using a maximum of 30 psi, blow out the black tank flush system for maybe 20 seconds.
2. Drain the fresh water tank by unscrewing the plastic cap under rear of RV.
3. Drain the Black and 2 Gray water tanks. 1 black, 1 gray in the storage area, and 1 gray to the right of the sewer outlet.
4. Drain the water heater by removing the large anode rod at bottom of water heater, accessed by removing the outside cover door to the water heater (to the right of the storage door). Replace the anode when empty.
5. Remove the water heater access panel to reach the back of the water heater. The panel is the inside right panel in the storage area. When the panel is removed, you will see a white valve on the plumbing. Turn it 90 degrees (by-pass position) to close the water heater water feed. Replace the panel.
6. Open:
- Kitchen hot and cold faucets
- Bathroom hot and cold faucets
- Shower Hot and Cold valves
- Toilet foot pedal valve (I lean a paver on it)
- Outside Shower hot and cold valves
- Low point drains. On the 318, there are two under the body behind the RV entry stairs.
7. Turn on the Water Pump for 30 seconds (switch on the inside panel)
8. Move the blow-out fitting to the city water fill connection. With a max of 30 psi, blow out all water lines. ( I watch the low point drains. When the drip from them is no longer happening, I stop the pressure)
9. Close all drains (fresh water, and low point). Take weight off toilet pedal.
10. Pour anti-freeze in kitchen and bath sink drains to fill the traps.
11. Pour anti-freeze in shower drain.
12. Pour some anti-freeze in toilet. Press foot pedal to allow some in tank. Then, release pedal and put about 2 to 3 inches of anti-freeze in toilet to keep seal wet.

THATS my process on my 318SAB.

I had a problem one time when I forgot to put a weight on the toilet pedal valve. It froze and cracked. Luckily it was an easy replacement.

Hope that helps.
Feel free to ask any more questions.

Regards, Phil

[ctbruce]

You want to use antifreeze for RV's (pink stuff), not automobile antifreeze which is toxic. Just a point of clarification just in case.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

[jerseyphil]

reading the post from ctbruce made me review my post.
When I said "it froze and broke", referring to my toilet problem, I meant the pedal valve froze and broke, not the toilet.

ctbruce, good point to stress using RV antifreeze!!

[hitchikerman]

thanks for the great help. I found the back of the water heater though the basement but could not find a winterization diverter valve there ( I guess that's what you would call it)...so I installed one. Got er winterize :hpyclp: