Intermittent electrical problems

[txfireguy2003]

Hi all, I'm having trouble with my rig right now and hoping someone here may have the answer.

The wife and I have been staying in our travel trailer since Thursday night in preparation from this morning's deer season opener in Texas. What's happening is, the air conditioner and all lights will randomly go out, but the rest of the 110V circuits seem to be fine. The first time it happened, I reset the breakers in the camper (none were tripped, but I tripped them and reset them anyway) and everything came back on! It ran fine after that for several hours. Since that first time, the breakers inside don't restore power though. It's happened several times this weekend. Sometimes it will restore itself on its own, orget times i have to go reset the power at the pedestal, but once it's working again, it usually runs fine for hours, then randomly shuts off again. This morning, while getting ready to hunt, it did it again, I went outside and unplugged the trailer, plugged it back in, and all was fine, for about 15 minutes, and now, even disconnecting it and reconnecting it to power isn't fixing the problem.

Here's my thoughts:
I have 1 circuit on 110ac power that's cutting out, the air conditioner circuit, as well as at least one 12V circuit for the lights.

First thought was power converter, but why would that effect my A/C?

I have a battery, so why don't the lights stay on, even if the power went out.... they used to.

Now I'm leaning toward it being something electronic like a circuit board going bad, and resetting power "reboots" it.

For reference, it's plugged into a 30 amp RV outlet.

Thanks in advance guys.

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[Tinner12002]

Have you tried isolating the 2 circuits, AC and the one 12v and then see if things will come on and stay on? Maybe shut them both off at the breaker...just a thought.

[txfireguy2003]

I haven't done that because it seems to be only those circuits affected. The microwave, fridge, all the outlets seem to be fine.

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[Tinner12002]

I haven't done that because it seems to be only those circuits affected. The microwave, fridge, all the outlets seem to be fine.

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Sorry I guess I misunderstood, thought that after several resets that you didn't have anything coming back on, that's why I suggested isolating those two so maybe you'd at least have the rest of your power on.

[txfireguy2003]

Sorry I guess I misunderstood, thought that after several resets that you didn't have anything coming back on, that's why I suggested isolating those two so maybe you'd at least have the rest of your power on. Oh yeah, that makes sense.

If it helps any, I should probably mention that it's been misting rain here for a few days. Wouldn't be a big deal, we've had rain before, except that sometime between the last time I was here and his weekend, my skylight over the shower got broken, so I've had a leak. It all seemed to be draining into the shower, but I'm afraid some may have gotten into the ceiling and causing a short or something. Any thoughts?

Another strange thing I noticed last night, when I trip the breakers inside the camper to try and reset the system, the lights will flash on for half a second them back off..... this happens when I flip the breaker OFF, but not back on. Also get a beeping sound when I flip the breakers.

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[hankaye]

txfireguy2003, Howdy;

The Beeping is probably your propane gas detector, usually located somewhere near the floor. I got nuttin' for the rest of your problems.
Wish I did, I just don't know much about electricity.

hank

[txfireguy2003]

Thanks. The beep is not like an alarm, more like a chirp from an appliance coming on. The more I think about it, I'm thinking outs coming from the A/C unit, and it's doing like the lights are, just a quick flash of power, then cuts out again.

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[chuckster57]

As a rule all the wiring is in the underbelly until it comes up where needed. If you had water leaking, no telling where it may have travelled.

Roof AC wiring usually goes straight up from breaker panel then through roof to vent/unit.

[txfireguy2003]

Well, the rain has stopped, so I'm going to repair the skylight first, then it'll be on to trying to diagnose this electrical problem.

Am I wrong to think the lights should stay on, even if the power went out or the voltage converter went out? Shouldn't they operate off of the battery?

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[PARAPTOR]

Am I wrong to think the lights should stay on, even if the power went out or the voltage converter went out? Shouldn't they operate off of the battery?

Yes majority if not all lighting will be 12V DC, therefore if you loose shore power, which will disable you converter, your battery if charged will power those lights. Make sure if you have a battery disconnect switch that it is in the correct position to have your battery connected to the power distribution panel

[txfireguy2003]

I'm pretty sure there's no disconnect, but I'll certainly check. That being said, none of that should effect the 120V air conditioner, right? This problem seems to be knocking out the A/C circuit and the 12V system all at once, but the rest of the 120V stays working fine.

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[JRTJH]

This is just a guess, especially since I have no reliable information on what kind of trailer, it's age or what specific electrical system (30 amp or 50 amp) it might have. I'm guessing from your first post that you have a 1995 Zepplin with a 30 amp electrical service. If that's correct, my "SWAG" would be a loose terminal either on the circuit breaker panel or the circuit breaker. Those connections are "screw in" type connectors and do vibrate loose with travel. Another possibility is a bad 30 amp power cord. Back in 1995, many "umbilical cords" were permanently attached and shoving them in/pulling them out of the "mousehole" will flex the wire enough to eventually cause it to fatigue and break. Also, there's a potential that the 30 amp plug that you are plugging the trailer into might be faulty (loose connector)....

My bet would be a loose neutral (white) wire inside the circuit breaker panel on the trailer. BE SURE TO DISCONNECT SHORE POWER BEFORE TAKING THE COVER OFF THE PANEL !!!!!!!!!

[hankpage]

Is your water heater on electric or gas??? 30amp is not enough to run a/c and water heater at the same time. Switch water heater to gas and see what happens.

[txfireguy2003]

This is just a guess, especially since I have no reliable information on what kind of trailer, it's age or what specific electrical system (30 amp or 50 amp) it might have. I'm guessing from your first post that you have a 1995 Zepplin with a 30 amp electrical service. If that's correct, my "SWAG" would be a loose terminal either on the circuit breaker panel or the circuit breaker. Those connections are "screw in" type connectors and do vibrate loose with travel. Another possibility is a bad 30 amp power cord. Back in 1995, many "umbilical cords" were permanently attached and shoving them in/pulling them out of the "mousehole" will flex the wire enough to eventually cause it to fatigue and break. Also, there's a potential that the 30 amp plug that you are plugging the trailer into might be faulty (loose connector)....

My bet would be a loose neutral (white) wire inside the circuit breaker panel on the trailer. BE SURE TO DISCONNECT SHORE POWER BEFORE TAKING THE COVER OFF THE PANEL !!!!!!!!! You are correct, 95 Zeplin, 30 amp system plugged into a dedicated 30 amp service which I just tested. Pedestal reading 122.5V as expected, now moving down the power distribution chain to find the fault(s).

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[flybouy]

Well, the rain has stopped, so I'm going to repair the skylight first, then it'll be on to trying to diagnose this electrical problem.

Am I wrong to think the lights should stay on, even if the power went out or the voltage converter went out? Shouldn't they operate off of the battery?

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That's correct on the battery powering the lights. The 12v DC system and the 120v ac system are separate systems that connect at the converter. As previously suggested a floating ground, or loose neutral connection can cause havoc. A 12v battery with a shorted cell can also create issues on both systems when plugged into shore power.

Do you know how to use an volt-ohm meter? Google it if you don't and you will find it easy to use. If you don't have one they can be purchased at Walmart, home improvement stores, Harbor Freight, etc. for under $20.

If you are uncomfortable with electricity then stop here and have a professional check it out.

I would start by unplugging the shore power cable and disconnecting the battery negative cable. Take a voltage reading at the battery. This should be 12volts dc. A low reading could indicate a bad connection, a defective battery, or a defective converter. Take an ohm reading from the negative battery cable to the frame of the trailer using the 1x scale. This should be zero or no resistance. Any high reading on this test could be a defective cable or corrosion where the cable bolts to the frame.

Time to check the ac side (Alternating current not air conditioner). Disconnect the power cable from the shore power! If your shore power cable is connected permanently ie thru a "mouse hole" then put the plug end of the cable thru a window and pull it to where the wires connect inside. Take the meter and go to the connection or converter and find where the ac input is from the cable. Set meter to ohms and check from the line side to the black wire, the neutral side to the white wire and the ground to the green wire. All readings should be zero or near zero on a 1x scale. If all is well here move on to deeper checks in the converter and the circuits from it. I won't go into this any further at this point to save space. Search this forum for converter issues and you will find many helpful posts.
Hope this helps.

[Steve/]

Just a guess is the thermostat running on 12 volts that would then turn off air.
With 12 volt light turning off thinking something in 12 volts circuit. Check for loose wires at the battery and any screws with wires.

Edit
Wait you said only some 12v circuit were off so battery wiring OK has to be where the light wiring/circuit is connected to main source or after.

[txfireguy2003]

Okay, I just pulled the panel apart, found a couple of connections very slightly loose, tightened them up. They weren't loose loose, but not tight tight either. Also found one screw on the ground bar completely backed out, not certain what that ground went to, but possibly the A/C, wires were tough to trace in the tight confines and no light. I replaced it and tightened all connections, checked for blown fuses sand found none blown.

Now, outside the trailer, I found that the battery was essentially dead, 2.6V, but the wires hooking to it read 13.6V between them when the battery is disconnected. I checked and found rust and corrosion on the ground side terminal, so I cleaned it up pretty week and reattached. Voltage reading across the terminals is 11.4V with the battery hooked up. Makes me think either the battery hasn't been charging due to the bad connection, or the battery is bad. It's only 2 years old, but in these Texas Summers, that don't mean much, especially since I know it got drained completely dead several times last year. I still don't see how that would be causing a problem for the Air Conditioner though. BTW, the thermostat is not hard wired, it's a battery operated remote, takes AAA batteries.

The only other thing that comes to mind as a possibility, is that I can't recall hearing the cooling fan that cools the power converter this weekend. Does that sound plausible? The fan isn't kicking on for some reason, so it's not cooling the converter, so the converter shuts down until it cools down to a reasonable operating temp, then kicks back on. Still don't see how that has any effect on the A/C, since I can see the main power wires attaching to the main breaker, then the rest of the 120V breakers attach to the bus bar below that.... that portion of the system seems super simple.

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[dwall]

I had the same problem about a year ago. I thought the converter was going bad but it turned out to be a bad battery.


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[txfireguy2003]

I had the same problem about a year ago. I thought the converter was going bad but it turned out to be a bad battery.


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkI may take the battery out of the equation for tonight and see if that stops the issue, if so, I'll take it back to Wal-Mart angs get a new one, I think it's still under warranty.

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[KevinW]

We just purchased a 2017 Cougar 326RDS 5th wheel. Been having issues with the lights flickering off/on, and the fridge was doing the same. I tightened all the ground wires, both inside and in the basement. (made sure I unplugged the unit prior to doing that by the way!) So far, it has seemed to help. Not sure if that might be part of your problem or not, but was fairly easy fix.

[Steve/]

OK I went back and reread your post. All the 12v were going out.
You found a bad connection to battery, it was dead. so it make sense that you would lose 12v when the Air Conditioner (AC) 110ac turns off and the converter is on the same 110 ac circuit it was supping the 12v since the battery was dead.
Once the battery is charged up the lights should stay lit when the AC stops.
I have no idea why the AC is acting up.but I am thinking it more of a power problem then a bad AC since the converter is also going off.

[txfireguy2003]

OK I went back and reread your post. All the 12v were going out.
You found a bad connection to battery, it was dead. so it make sense that you would lose 12v when the Air Conditioner (AC) 110ac turns off and the converter is on the same 110 ac circuit it was supping the 12v since the battery was dead.
Once the battery is charged up the lights should stay lit when the AC stops.
I have no idea why the AC is acting up.but I am thinking it more of a power problem then a bad AC since the converter is also going off.Agreed. The converter is on a different circuit from the A/C, different breakers even (trailer has several of the double breakers with two switches in one Beasley body). Knock on wood, I went out and did some work in the field and my wife said it seemed to be fine for the lady few hours, so we'll see what happens. The only other time I had trouble with this trailer was a couple years ago when the slide wouldn't go in or out. That's when I replaced the battery, but found that the ground to the trailer frame was rusted. Cleaned that up and everything was good to go again. Hopefully that's all it is this time too.

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[Steve/]

If the AC and converter are on 2 different circuits I would look for the problem from the breaker to the outside power source.
I would also do as you are doing and wait an see if you still have a problem after fixing the ground problem.

[txfireguy2003]

If the AC and converter are on 2 different circuits I would look for the problem from the breaker to the outside power source.
I would also do as you are doing and wait an see if you still have a problem after fixing the ground problem.I felt the same way, but the engineer in me says that if I had a problem on the input side, it would effect all of the circuits, since they all tie to a single leg of 120V. If it were a 50A service, then yeah, it would make sense, but it's only a 30A. Besides, I already checked the input at the pedestal, and the main power wire. I'm just crossing my fingers now and hoping I fixed it with the ground and tightening the connectors in the panel. Time will tell.

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[txfireguy2003]

Well, the battery was A problem, but not the only one. I removed the battery completely as it's not needed when hooked to shore power and the problem persists. It seems to happen most when the lights are on, which leads me to believe the problem is a failing power converter. I feel like it's overheating, shutting down, cooling off and restarting. At night, when all the lights are off and the only 12V draw should be the fridge, there are no problems, the A/C runs all night. During the day, when we are up and about and have the lights on, is when it cuts off. Strangely though, the converter is sending ample voltage to the battery, the battery just wasn't taking the charge. I can check between the frame and the positive battery lead (with battery disconnected of course) and get 12.6V.

I still can't see how the converter is causing the A/C to turn off, but the whole unit is less than 175 bucks, so I'm probably going to buy a new power converter and install it to see if that solves the problem. That is, unless someone else has a better suggestion of course. Sadly, it'll be two weeks before I can test it.

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[chuckster57]

Is your water heater on electric or gas??? 30amp is not enough to run a/c and water heater at the same time. Switch water heater to gas and see what happens.

I do it all the time, Never had a problem.

[txfireguy2003]

Sorry, I never answered that question, it's gas only. I wish there was an electric option like a retrofit kit for my existing heater. Would save me quite a bit on propane since it's rarely cold enough here to need the heater.

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[JRTJH]

OK, This is another SWAG, based on a "best guess" as to which power center you have. I'm guessing it's a WFCO, probably a 8500 or 8700 series. Even back in 1995 (again guessing that the converter is the original ??) the charging circuits in the converter provided three levels of charge (and the same voltage to the power circuits in the trailer. Those voltages are 14.4, 13.6 and 13.2 VDC. In all the WFCO troubleshooting guides, the instructions say to disconnect the battery, power on the converter and read the voltage at the battery terminal connection (no battery just the terminals) and the voltage "should be" 13.6 VDC. If you're accurately reading 12.6 VDC, chances are there's a few "shorted windings in the transformer" or another problem inside the converter.

So, your guess that the converter is likely bad is as good a guess as any other I've seen. I agree, replace it and if the battery is toast, replace it as well.

As to why the air conditioner is acting up ??? My only guess would be the 12 VDC circuits in the A/C, but you say your thermostat is AA battery powered, so I don't have any idea why the A/C would be giving you problems.....

You can download all the manuals for the WFCO components here: http://wfcoelectronics.com/product-downloads/

Let us know what you find, this one is definitely a "head scratcher".....

[txfireguy2003]

Actually, my wife corrected me, it's a 2005, not a 95, I can't remember, I just pay the bills.

Anyway, it appears to be a WFCO 8900 series, although I was not smart enough to get the exact model, and I'm now 3 hours away. I don't know if I have a 35, 45, 55, 65 or 75 amp model, but it appears that any of the amp ratings would fit the housing, and it won't hurt to have more amps available, might actually run cooler and more reliably if the demand is well below the output capability.

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[chuckster57]

I would definitely upgrade to 75A if your going to change it.

[JRTJH]

I would definitely upgrade to 75A if your going to change it.

Absolutely agree !!! The 8955 is typically what Keystone installs and it is "marginally adequate" with incandescent lights and even with LED's it's not a "star player".... I'd upgrade to the 8975, or if you want to spend even more money on a "maybe this is it" kind of purchase, Progressive builds a pretty good converter that is, for the most part, a direct changeout.

But, for me, if I were buying one tonight for my trailer, I'd buy the WFCO 8975. Since you say it's a 2005 model trailer, then you definitely have the 3 stage charger and should be reading 13.6 VDC at the battery terminals with no battery installed.

[txfireguy2003]

That was the plan. Also, I just went back and read my previous posts again, and I'm remembering wrong, it is 13.6V reading across the two cables that attach to the battery (with the battery removed). 11.4V with the battery hooked up....

Apparently my "maintenance free" battery isn't, it was basically empty of water/acid, I fixed that with distilled water and put it on my charger on the recondition setting, maybe it can be saved, if not, I'll buy a new Optima.

I also checked earlier today and found that the cooling fan IS turning, and moving air, but it's not revved up like I've heard it do in the past, it was turning silently line a computer fan..... is it a multi speed fan? Does the overheating theory make any sense? I don't want to throws money at parts if they aren't going to fix the issue.

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[JRTJH]

With your comments about the battery being "dry and undercharged" I'd first consider replacing the battery and see how it goes. You may find that it was the battery causing all the DC problems (still confused on the A/C issue though).

If you do "rejuvenate the battery" use it with a careful eye. I've never had a modern deep cycle battery "boil dry" and recover....

As for the converter fan, it is "louder under heavy loads" but I can't tell you that it's variable speed ( in the older units) but it is in the newer units. Also, the transformer hums louder under heavy loads, making the fan "seem to be louder" ???? Either way, the fan should not be "intrusive" so if it was previously louder than now, it may be "giving up the ghost" now. ????

At any rate, with the "dry battery", I'd hold off buying a converter until you know you've got a good battery in the system. Then, if the DC issues persist, I'd consider a replacement converter. Save your money for now, resolve the battery part, then move forward.

[hankpage]

I do it all the time, Never had a problem.

Chuck, If you are getting away with it on 30 amp service you are very lucky. Adding up the amperage from the water heater, a/c and the converter when it goes into full charge mode will exceed 30 amps most if not all of the time when the a/c starts up. It seems to me the times when this happens is when the water heater would be calling for heat and when the lights are on with a weak battery the converter would kick into high charge. JM2¢ as usual, Hank

[chuckster57]

I'll have to look at my amp gauge on my EMS and see what it says. Batteries are never low enough to need full charge.

[txfireguy2003]

So, it hit me at 4am while trying to fall back asleep, why the 12V system would be screwing with the A/C. They are tied together in some way, because the thermostat for the A/C also controls the gas furnace, which is capable of running without 120V shore power. This tells me that the temperature controls inside the A/C unit, must also run on 12V, and not by converting it within the unit, otherwise, three would be no way to control the furnace without the power hookup. Seems line the actual thermostat is internal to the A/C unit, and what we think of as the thermostat that hangs on the wall, is just a remote. Therefore, when I lose 12V power to that part of the A/C system, it shuts down because there's no signal telling it to keep running.

Sound plausible, or am I a big idiot for even thinking this way?

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[JRTJH]

Nope, you're not "a big idiot for thinking that way"... I agree, there's an "orange wire" from the thermostat to the A/C control box that carries 12 VDC. That wire is critical to A/C operation and if it is loose, will cause the thermostat to enter an error code indicating "failure to communicate". That same 12VDC controls the furnace operation and, if the fan switch is in high or low (not auto) will cause the fan in the A/C to come on when the thermostat calls for heat.

That said, I can't tell you whether the 12VDC originates within the A/C (regulated voltage) or if it comes from the battery/converter, goes through the thermostat or comes from the furnace, to the thermostat and then to the A/C. My guess would be that it's 12VDC from the battery/converter, to the A/C control box and then to the thermostat (via that orange wire) and then to the furnace. But I could be completely wrong, that's just my "best guess" since I've never had the need to sit down with all the manuals and try to piece together the interconnection schematics.

[chuckster57]

Thermostat gets its power from the control board in the AC. Thermostat "tells" the control board what your asking for (heat or cool) and reports the temp.

Where the 12V originates from, I don't know. You could figure it out by using a test light and then pulling fuses.

[B-O-B'03]

That was the plan. Also, I just went back and read my previous posts again, and I'm remembering wrong, it is 13.6V reading across the two cables that attach to the battery (with the battery removed). 11.4V with the battery hooked up....

Apparently my "maintenance free" battery isn't, it was basically empty of water/acid, I fixed that with distilled water and put it on my charger on the recondition setting, maybe it can be saved, if not, I'll buy a new Optima.

I also checked earlier today and found that the cooling fan IS turning, and moving air, but it's not revved up like I've heard it do in the past, it was turning silently line a computer fan..... is it a multi speed fan? Does the overheating theory make any sense? I don't want to throws money at parts if they aren't going to fix the issue.


My WFCO converter failed, a few weeks past the 2 year warranty and I replaced just the circuit board with a PD4655 MBA from Progressive Dynamics.

The Progressive is a 4 stage unit, with dual fans and it slides right in to the WFCO load center.

While I was at it, I replace the 2 X 12 volt batteries, that were damaged in the process, with 2 X 6 volt golf cart batteries.

All in it was under $500, for the converter, batteries and battery box to hold them.

I am very happy with my decision.

-Brian

[CamperDave]

This is just a guess, especially since I have no reliable information on what kind of trailer, it's age or what specific electrical system (30 amp or 50 amp) it might have. I'm guessing from your first post that you have a 1995 Zepplin with a 30 amp electrical service. If that's correct, my "SWAG" would be a loose terminal either on the circuit breaker panel or the circuit breaker. Those connections are "screw in" type connectors and do vibrate loose with travel. Another possibility is a bad 30 amp power cord. Back in 1995, many "umbilical cords" were permanently attached and shoving them in/pulling them out of the "mousehole" will flex the wire enough to eventually cause it to fatigue and break. Also, there's a potential that the 30 amp plug that you are plugging the trailer into might be faulty (loose connector)....

My bet would be a loose neutral (white) wire inside the circuit breaker panel on the trailer. BE SURE TO DISCONNECT SHORE POWER BEFORE TAKING THE COVER OFF THE PANEL !!!!!!!!!


I would have to agree with JRTJH on this.

[txfireguy2003]

My WFCO converter failed, a few weeks past the 2 year warranty and I replaced just the circuit board with a PD4655 MBA from Progressive Dynamics.

The Progressive is a 4 stage unit, with dual fans and it slides right in to the WFCO load center.

While I was at it, I replace the 2 X 12 volt batteries, that were damaged in the process, with 2 X 6 volt golf cart batteries.

All in it was under $500, for the converter, batteries and battery box to hold them.

I am very happy with my decision.

-BrianI'm assuming the golf cart batteries have a larger amp hour rating, so they last longer? Withstand more charge discharge cycles, or stand up to constant charging better? What was the reason for that switch? My trailer only has one battery, but I could easily add a second in parallel configuration and double the storage capacity, why go to the golf cart batteries?

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[flybouy]

Before you fire up any repair or replacement of the converter I suggest having the battery load tested at a minimum. I suspect the difference in voltage readings with the battery out and in the circuit is do to the battery having failed with a shorted cell. Given the report of the boil out the battery would be dead. Using distilled water to top a cell is not useful after the battery runs dry and the damage is done. A battery with a shorted cell will put the charger under a load that can cause damage.

[flybouy]

I'm assuming the golf cart batteries have a larger amp hour rating, so they last longer? Withstand more charge discharge cycles, or stand up to constant charging better? What was the reason for that switch? My trailer only has one battery, but I could easily add a second in parallel configuration and double the storage capacity, why go to the golf cart batteries?

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Increase in capacity is one plus. They are constructed in a way that allows a deeper and frequent discharge without failure.

[txfireguy2003]

Yes, I plan to make sure I have a good battery in it, the problem is that the trailer is parked 3 hours from my home and I am only using it on weekends. Where it's located, it would be a good hour drive one way to go get a part, so my plan was to purchase the converter and if it's not needed, I could return it. That said, someone above mentioned that the converter that's in it may be just barely adequate, so an upgrade wouldn't hurt, and they are pretty affordable, so I figured why not just do the upgrade and feel comfortable about it. The current converter would be 12-13 years old at this point. I'm sure there is a lifespan on these things, no?

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[txfireguy2003]

Thermostat gets its power from the control board in the AC. Thermostat "tells" the control board what your asking for (heat or cool) and reports the temp.

Where the 12V originates from, I don't know. You could figure it out by using a test light and then pulling fuses.I think the 12V would have to originate in the DC side of the trailer, either the converter, or the battery in the case of no shore power. Thats the only way the furnace could run off the battery without shore power, correct?

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[flybouy]

Yes, I plan to make sure I have a good battery in it, the problem is that the trailer is parked 3 hours from my home and I am only using it on weekends. Where it's located, it would be a good hour drive one way to go get a part, so my plan was to purchase the converter and if it's not needed, I could return it. That said, someone above mentioned that the converter that's in it may be just barely adequate, so an upgrade wouldn't hurt, and they are pretty affordable, so I figured why not just do the upgrade and feel comfortable about it. The current converter would be 12-13 years old at this point. I'm sure there is a lifespan on these things, no?

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Everything has a lifespan and it is affected by how it's used. As for having a "good" battery don't be fooled by a battery charger charging the battery. A damaged battery may take a "top charge" and drain rapidly with little or no load. The only reliable result is after a load test.

[txfireguy2003]

Everything has a lifespan and it is affected by how it's used. As for having a "good" battery don't be fooled by a battery charger charging the battery. A damaged battery may take a "top charge" and drain rapidly with little or no load. The only reliable result is after a load test.Thanks.

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[B-O-B'03]

I'm assuming the golf cart batteries have a larger amp hour rating, so they last longer? Withstand more charge discharge cycles, or stand up to constant charging better? What was the reason for that switch? My trailer only has one battery, but I could easily add a second in parallel configuration and double the storage capacity, why go to the golf cart batteries?

Yes, to all the above.

The 2 golf cart batteries, in series, have a greater AH rating and reserve than the previous 12 volt, deep cycle RV/Marine group 24 Interstate batteries, in parallel, they replaced.

They are true deep cycle batteries and should handle repeated discharge/recharge better than the previous units.

I also added a really cool system for maintaining the water level, in both batteries, at the same time.

battery filler system (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001FCAXT0)
battery filler hand pump (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001FC79EW)

The hose end, for the filler system, is in one of the wire holes in the new battery box and I just connect the hand pump to it, place the hose for the pump into a bottle of distilled water and squeeze the bulb of the pump until it is firm.

It takes just seconds to ensure all cells are full.

-Brian

[Carrottop]

Not to over simplify this. But I had the exact same issues with my class A we owned. Had this issue for several seasons mostly when it rained. It turned out it was the 50A extension cord that had a fault in it and causing all the problems they seemed to be highlighted by the rain. Not sure if you are using the shore power cord directly into the box or if you are using an 30/50 amp extension if so this sounds like your problem. As I said my issues were exactly the same as yours and I spend hundreds with my Holiday Rambler dealer trying to figure it out.

[txfireguy2003]

Not to over simplify this. But I had the exact same issues with my class A we owned. Had this issue for several seasons mostly when it rained. It turned out it was the 50A extension cord that had a fault in it and causing all the problems they seemed to be highlighted by the rain. Not sure if you are using the shore power cord directly into the box or if you are using an 30/50 amp extension if so this sounds like your problem. As I said my issues were exactly the same as yours and I spend hundreds with my Holiday Rambler dealer trying to figure it out. Thanks for the info. I'm plugging directly into a 30 amp outlet, dedicated to my trailer only, with no adapters or extensions. The outlet was installed and hooked up this Spring, along with another identical setup which is working fine on another guy's trailer. They are two completely separate but identical circuits, and they are pulling from separate legs of the main service to the property. None of the other stuff sends to have a problem, including the house, garage, barns, another camper, etc. It seems to be isolated to my trailer, and I think I've got it narrowed down to strictly a 12V problem, since none of the other 120V outlets, appliances, etc have a problem, only the A/C, and I'm not 100% certain it's losing 120V, it's just shutting off. If the control module for the HVAC system is controlled by 12V from the converter or battery, then a failure of the converter would cause it to shut down.

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[txfireguy2003]

Well, I'm back at the camper this weekend. I lost track of time and didn't order the new power converter like I had planned, but I did slap a new deep cycle battery on her and so far, so good. I'm going on 24 hours of constant runtime with no shutdowns ado far. Thanks for all the help. I'll probably go ahead and replace/ upgrade the converter soon anyway, just to be safe, but it seems to be working great right now.

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