winterizing part 2

[bschmuhl]

Can i pour the RV anti-freeze directly into the fresh water tank then turn the pump on to push the anti-freeze through my lines?

[gkainz]

yes but takes a lot more antifreeze than letting the pump pull from the 1 gallon jugs using the winterizing bypass.

[thanket]

I use this: http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/plastic-winterizing-hand-pump-kit/4411

Takes two people, one outside pumping and one inside to turn on the different faucets and shower. I have used the pump on my trailer before but this is very easy to use. Just hook up to city water inlet, switch the hot water heater bypass, and start pumping. Takes maybe 10 minutes.

[MarcS]

yes but takes a lot more antifreeze than letting the pump pull from the 1 gallon jugs using the winterizing bypass.+1

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[gkainz]

I can winterize my rig in about 10 minutes as well.
Turn the water heater to bypass.
Turn the water pump to bypass.
Stick the hose on the pump bypass into a 1 gal jug of antifreeze
Go inside and turn on the pump.
Open a faucet and let it run until it runs pink, close it and move on to the next one.
Half way thru I can hear the pump run the jug empty, so go back outside and move the hose to the second gallon jug, go back in and continue through the rest of the rig.

Takes 1 person, 2 gallons of antifreeze and about 10 minutes.

[cynjon]

I can winterize my rig in about 10 minutes as well.
Turn the water heater to bypass.
Turn the water pump to bypass.
Stick the hose on the pump bypass into a 1 gal jug of antifreeze
Go inside and turn on the pump.
Open a faucet and let it run until it runs pink, close it and move on to the next one.
Half way thru I can hear the pump run the jug empty, so go back outside and move the hose to the second gallon jug, go back in and continue through the rest of the rig.

Takes 1 person, 2 gallons of antifreeze and about 10 minutes.

This is what I've always done as well, but what about the water that remains in the system between the city connection inlet and the fresh water fill/city connection selector valve? My last unit didn't have that, but I'm concerned about that remaining water freezing up. I may pick up one of the hand pumps linked above to force some anti-freeze into the city water connection as well as using the water pump/bypass to winterize the rest of the trailer.

[gkainz]

This is what I've always done as well, but what about the water that remains in the system between the city connection inlet and the fresh water fill/city connection selector valve? My last unit didn't have that, but I'm concerned about that remaining water freezing up. I may pick up one of the hand pumps linked above to force some anti-freeze into the city water connection as well as using the water pump/bypass to winterize the rest of the trailer.

Thanks for reminding me ... (and add 2 minutes!) I have an adapter fitting on my outdoor shower - remove the shower head and screw it into the city water connection. (Also into the black water flush connector)

I guess thinking about that, I could just make that connection first and route everything thru the system that way?

[SteveC7010]

Can i pour the RV anti-freeze directly into the fresh water tank then turn the pump on to push the anti-freeze through my lines?
Sure, you can do this, but if you do, you're letting yourself in for extra expense and a lot of extra time required.

First, as already pointed out, you'll need more antifreeze. Unlike the winterizing kit that sucks the antifreeze directly from the jug to the system, you'll need to add several more gallons to get enough fluid in the FW tank for the pump to pull through.

Second, in the spring, you'll have to do a lot more filling and flushing of the FW tank to get all the antifreeze out and to get all the taste and odor out. It's not harmful, but everyone will complain about it until it dissipates.

Many RV's come from the factory with one of several different types of winterizing kits already installed. The higher end units that have the convenience center usually have a winterizing port there. Others will have the two-way valve and suction hose already installed on the pump.

If your rig doesn't have the winterizing kit, I highly recommend that you get one, install it, and use it. There are a couple of different versions, but they all do pretty much the same thing. This one installs right on the pump with no hose cutting, etc. required. http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/pump-converter-winterizer-kit/6279 The one I bought 6 years ago came with hose barbs and clamps. I cut the FW feed hose right before the pump, inserted the barbs and valve, and tightened up the clamps. Almost as easy.

For normal operation, the valve allows water to flow from the the FW tank to the pump. To winterize, you drain the FW tank, flip the valve, insert the suction hose in a jug of antifreeze and pump away. I can do my 36' Cougar fiver with two gallons and that includes pouring some in each drain trap. Any left over goes in the holding tanks to protect the drain valves.

There's already plenty of instructions on winterizing here in previous threads so there's no need to reinvent that wheel, but you now know why pouring the antifreeze in the FW tank is not the best or easiest or cheapest method.

If your rig doesn't already have a winterizing kit installed, get one. You won't regret it.

[Gegrad]

Yep, I drain all my lines, bypass the hot water heater, and dump 5 gallons of RV anitfreeze in the fresh tank and pump it through every faucet and toilet. Done.