It all worked on electric hookup--not on LP and battery

[Scimsgirl]

Hi all! Total newbie. Honestly just got the RV to stay on the land with the horses while house is built. Bought an 03 Toyhauler. When I went to look at it, the seller showed me that everything worked.. above and beyond any questions I even thought to ask. It was hooked up to city water and electric. Everything worked!!!
I am off grid until the water and electric get put in to the land. I have the battery hooked up to a 100W solar panel. So, yes, there is a charged battery. the lights in the living area work. The ones in the back do not. I know the outlets won't work without an inverter. That's fine! I can live without tv and a hairdryer for awhile.
But the fridge, water pump (by extension the water heater= no watergetting there to heat) and the furnace will not turn on. According to my research... they should all work on LP. The stove does work so yes, LP is ok. Yes, I filled the water tanks. The fuses all look ok.
Prior owner never used it without a hookup. They are stumped as well.
HELP!! The manuals are not helpful. I've done everything I could find online to try. It's not cold yet but I need that heat soon! A hot shower instead of heating gallons of water for a bath would be fantastic as well.

[chuckster57]

Welcome to the forum!!!

First thing to check is the battery. Is it new? If not then it is suspect. If the trailer was plugged in and the water level checked in the cells, then the battery is most likely "cooked".

If the battery was replaced, then I would check the polarity of the connections. White is GROUND, and if hooked up backwards for even a second it will blow the reverse polarity fuses. Those fuses are usually the 40A fuses NOT in the row of fuses.

If your coach has a battery disconnect, make sure it's set to allow current to flow. Why some things work and others don't will take some further investigation once we have ruled out a bad battery, disconnect switch.

[Canonman]

OK, the living room lights work so there is some battery power. The water pump, furnace and fridge as well as the other lights were operating on 12v even when you were plugged in to shore power. Your converter takes the 110v a.c. power and "converts" it to 12v d.c. so they are probably ok just not getting power.
So something happened when the shore power was removed and the solar was connected. Look in your fuse panel and see if the different fuses were labeled in some way. If you can identify the fuse for say the furnace, remove it. hold it to the working light and see if you can confirm the filament is not broken. Fuses can "look" OK but close inspection might find it has blown. Same with the other 12v fuses.
Follow Chuckster's advice regarding the 40 amp polarity protection fuses. If you have and are comfortable using, a volt ohm meter, the best test is to ohm out the fuses to confirm they are good.
Keep the forum updated and we all will try and help you sort through this.

[Canonman]

Forgot to mention, you can run the fridge on LP Gas while this gets sorted out.

[chuckster57]

Forgot to mention, you can run the fridge on LP Gas while this gets sorted out.


Still need battery power. OP says the fridge won't turn on.

[Canonman]

Still need battery power. OP says the fridge won't turn on.

Good catch. 12v needed for controls
Is it possible the 12v panel is split with two main fuses?

[PARAPTOR]

If all 12V systems worked on shore power and now only some when disconnected, I would check anything you added and/or changed in that period of time. On shore power the converter was supplying power to all rig 12V systems as well as charging the battery if battery disconnect switch in correct position. When disconnected from shore power your battery is the main source of 12V power. Was the solar system wired in after you were disconnected from shore power??

If you you have and are familiar with a multi meter, I would check the voltage on each side of all the 12V DC fuses in the power distribution panel.

[chuckster57]

Good catch. 12v needed for controls

Is it possible the 12v panel is split with two main fuses?


Can't say I've ever seen a 12V panel split into multiple legs like a 50A breaker panel.

[Tinner12002]

I really not sure myself but could there be something the solar connection is doing to block some power from getting to the coach...maybe a limiting switch of sorts, if there is such a thing, has the OP tried all of the items not working now without having or before hooking the solar up???

[Scimsgirl]

Thanks! I will check fuses again. The unit was hooked up at seller's place. He dropped it off on the land for me. I have an 02 GMC 2500HD that would pull it, but no sway bars as I mostly pull my 4 horse gooseneck. It sat for two weeks before I actually moved in and started trying to work things. I attached the solar panel. It wires right to the battery itself, not sure how it would interfere. I can easily disconnect after a sunny day and the battery is charged to check that.
Yes, I was careful to get the wires connected correctly.
No, I did not attempt to turn anything on before the solar panel was attached.
The battery isn't old but also not brand new. I did worry about it sitting for two weeks.
I'll try disconnecting the solar and then check fuses as well. I may just replace them all to be sure.
BTW, it has settled a bit and is not completely level side to side. I need to get a few boards to put under the tires. Would that make any difference? Maybe there is loose wiring and the angle has shorted it? I know that will affect the fridge in the long run, but thought it should at least start up.
THANK YOU !

[chuckster57]

Being off level shouldn't have any effect on wiring. The refer can take up to 3 degrees off level with no issues.

If it sat for two weeks without being plugged in or on solar, that enough time to drain the battery. There are parisitic drains, that draw power unless the disconnect is turned off.

If you can, take the battery out and have it load tested. Any auto parts store can do it, and if it fails make sure to replace it with a deep cycle marine/RV and not a standard automotive type battery.

[Scimsgirl]

Battery disconnect switch? Where do I find and check that?

[notanlines]

There will be a door on the street side of your RV with water hook-ups and cable/tv antenna connections. It will be a red handled switch.

[JRTJH]

If the trailer sat "disconnected" for a couple of weeks with no shore power, I'd suspect that the battery is dead and just hasn't got the "umph" from the solar system to recharge it. Also, if the trailer is plugged in with a dead battery and the solar system is supplying 13 volts, the converter will "sense that voltage" and "charge the battery according to what it senses". That means that the converter won't charge a "charged battery" to prevent overcharging and "boiling the battery". So, in short, what I'm suspecting is that the solar system is providing power to the battery circuit "fooling" the converter into thinking the battery is charged and causing the converter to go into "trickle charge". If so, there won't be enough charging current to ever bring the battery back to full charge.

My suggestion, first disconnect the solar system, verify the battery condition with a voltmeter. Check the electrolyte level, then plug in the trailer to shore power. See if the converter is charging the battery and providing 12 VDC to the trailer systems. If it is, then I'd suspect the solar system is the culprit. If not, then I'd do the troubleshooting found in the WFCO owner's manual. Essentially, it is: Disconnect the battery, plug the trailer into shore power, check the converter output at the fuse panel. If it's 13.6VDC, the converter is working, if it is less than that, the converter charging circuit is malfunctioning and needs to be replaced.

[hankpage]

Connect your truck with the engine running to the trailer and see if you gain anything. The lights that are working may have been converted to led and will work on much lower voltage. On an '03 trailer the battery disconnect could be anywhere if it was installed aftermarket.
I think your problem is the battery is weak from sitting too long and the solar panel just is not enough to bring it back. Maybe you can borrow a small generator just to bring it back up or take it home and fully charge it. I don't think your present solar panel will be enough to sustain you for a long period. Look into a small generator to help it along. JM2¢, Hank .... Good luck

[Scimsgirl]

No access to shore power unless I haul it somewhere. The road in isn't great, no sway bars and I'd have to take up a bunch of just fenced dog yard around it. I can try plugging in to the truck though. So..... if I can possibly avoid that route.......I'm thinking a new battery is in order as the most likely culprit. I was planning on adding batteries and solar panels to have more power available when more funds came available- dog needed vet and truck needed repairs all at once---ufda. But I don't need much for just a few lights at night as the rest should mostly work off LP anyway. Good time to catch up on my reading and skip tv for the one hour or so before bedtime.

[chuckster57]

Unless your TV is 12V or you have an inverter to run it, watching TV is a non issue.
Available funds will definitely play in decisions. If your going to add batteries, I would pony up for 2 6V batteries instead of a pair of 12V. You will get more available Amp Hrs. (Reserve). Takes longer to charge but with solar if the panel(s) can get a full day of sun you should be good. Let us.know if you go the 6V route as the batteries are connected differently than a pair of 12V.

[Tinner12002]

There will be a door on the street side of your RV with water hook-ups and cable/tv antenna connections. It will be a red handled switch.


Being an 02 it may not have a disconnect or a convenience center. My 06 and 09 neither one had either, not saying an aftermarket disconnect couldn't have been installed though.

[Scimsgirl]

UPDATE-- had the battery checked- it was definitely not working up to par and was new enough that they exchanged it. So, I went with just the 12V for now.
I connected it and got all the lights everywhere to work. The electric part of the fridge goes on but it is still blinking about the propane.
Question#1) I filled the tank very recently so I'm guessing air in the line?Not sure what else to do for it.
I'm pretty sure two of the main 30 amp fuses are blown. Forgot to get them last night. Hopefully tonight and then maybe the furnace, water pump and water heater will work.

[chuckster57]

To purge air from the LP lines, light the stove. After it lights, then try the refer. It may take 3 or 4 times to light.

After you replace the fuses, let us know what doesn't work.

[sourdough]

Just a thought on the LP;

You said you filled "the tank" so don't know if you have multiple tanks or not....but if you do, if you turn the tank selector on the regulator too fast it will not switch. It has to be turned SLOWLY from one tank to the other....just a thought.

[Scimsgirl]

Replaced 30 amp fuses. I have heat! Haven't tried the water yet. I filled the tanks but that was three weeks ago. One plug is a bit "rigged" the other should be fine. More so, most info says to fill the water heater too. Pretty sure I know where it is but looks like I will need to figure out how to fill it. There is a metal piece in front of a circular opening that looks like it should move. I'm afraid of breaking it if I mess with it too hard. Couldn't find a funnel last night.
I tried starting the refer with the stove and oven going. No luck. It keeps flashing the LP light after about 30 seconds to a minute.

[chuckster57]

Try the refer about 10 times before you give up. Next time, take the lower cover off outside and then listen when you turn it on. Let me know if you hear a "clicking".

Filling the water heater is as easy as opening any faucet and letting it run until you get a steady stream of water. There is a bypass valve, either in the convienence center or on the back of the water heater. You need to be sure its set to allow flow.

[B-O-B'03]

Replaced 30 amp fuses. I have heat! Haven't tried the water yet. I filled the tanks but that was three weeks ago. One plug is a bit "rigged" the other should be fine. More so, most info says to fill the water heater too. Pretty sure I know where it is but looks like I will need to figure out how to fill it. There is a metal piece in front of a circular opening that looks like it should move. I'm afraid of breaking it if I mess with it too hard. Couldn't find a funnel last night.
I tried starting the refer with the stove and oven going. No luck. It keeps flashing the LP light after about 30 seconds to a minute.

The single 12 volt battery will not run the furnace for very long and you should be careful to not discharge it too deeply (not sure what type of battery you have... true deep cycle or hybrid/engine start). Also not sure a single 100 watt panel will be enough to recoup post sundown losses... energy management will be fairly essential, with your current setup.

Good luck, there is a great wealth of knowledge here, just waiting to help you :)

-Brian

[MattE303]

Filling the water heater is as easy as opening any faucet and letting it run until you get a steady stream of water. There is a bypass valve, either in the convienence center or on the back of the water heater. You need to be sure its set to allow flow.

apologies if this is stating the obvious, but I would add that the idea here is to do this before you light the hot water heater (or turn on the electric side) because you will burn out the element if it gets hot with no water in it.

[theeyres]

Am I missing something? Amongst all the other issues...a 100 watt solar panel? That's like a 100 watt light bulb. I can't imagine that would start to charge a battery. The converter alone needs more than that to keep going. My guess is your battery is dead and will stay dead unless you get a lot more power to keep things going. A 1000 watt generator will barely keep things charged.