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View Full Version : 2012 Cougar High Country Plumbing Leak


SkiSmuggs
09-10-2017, 04:44 PM
We are into our 6th season with our 299RK and I have to say, problems have been minimal considering we have 40,000 miles or more on our rig. Last season, I noticed drips from the pec plumbing coming from the bathroom sink when running the black tank washer. Since it only leaked then, I wasn't concerned and, like any intermittent problem, hard to track. This weekend, it started leaking just from being connected to the campground water. I had to put a bucket under it to keep from flooding the basement. I was finally able to track it as coming from the black water washer check valve under the sink. Whenever I touched it, water dripped faster. I've already ordered a new check valve from Walmart of all places, but the had one that looked just like mine, so I will replace it then. Wondered if anyone else had a similar experience.
Other than that, this unit has been relatively trouble free. I upgraded the shackles to heavy duty with wet bolts and replaced the MorRyde CR3000 with a new one, replaced luan pantry shelves with plywood, replaced the water pump with a quiet one, on my third set of tires and the last two sets were Maxxis. I do have an inside sweep seal that is torn and needs replacing, but that is about it.

chuckster57
09-10-2017, 04:56 PM
The black tank rinser plumbing is completely separate from your fresh water system. The anti siphon valve shouldn't be dripping at all when hooked up to city water.

If your truly getting a drip from the anti siphon valve when the city water is on, you have a more serious issue.

SkiSmuggs
09-11-2017, 02:50 PM
Then the question is what is that black thing sitting on top of a red and blue pec pipe under the sink? The washer systems has to get its water from some where and has always worked whether I am connected to city water or using the water pump. How is it completely separate?

SteveC7010
09-11-2017, 05:43 PM
Then the question is what is that black thing sitting on top of a red and blue pec pipe under the sink? The washer systems has to get its water from some where and has always worked whether I am connected to city water or using the water pump. How is it completely separate?
The anti-siphon valve is separated from any other part of your trailer's plumbing. It is fed either from the manual black tank flush connection or the valve in the convenience center, and then goes straight to the nozzles in the black tank.

If it's leaking, you've got to figure out if the leak is one of the connections in or out of the valve or the valve itself. It's unlikely that the PEX is split, but the PEX to fitting connection may be loose. If it's the Flair-It, they are easily tightened. I will tell you that if you don't winterize that part of the plumbing, water in the valve over the winter can expand enough to break it, especially if it's plastic. When I winterize, I make sure the black tank flush is blown out with compressed air, and then filled with RV antifreeze.

And it could just be a poorly made anti-siphon valve that has failed.

chuckster57
09-11-2017, 05:58 PM
I have yet to see any black tank rinser use the same lines as the fresh water system. If this is the case, then anytime your on city water or the pump is turned on, you would be filling the black tank.

For sanitary reasons the rinser uses a separate inlet at the exterior that goes directly to the anti siphon valve and then directly to the black tank.

So your saying that the piece in question is leaking anytime the fresh water supply has pressure?

SkiSmuggs
09-12-2017, 04:32 AM
https://photos.smugmug.com/My-First-Gallery/i-h2Krs6Z/0/2f5e9987/X2/IMG_20170912_083607476-X2.jpgYes, it now leaks with either pressure from city water or the pump. The reason it doesn't fill the black tank is that the washer supply valves are closed. My setup has a hose that makes a connection between the RV water supply and the supply valves. If I want to use non-potable water from a dump station, I disconnect that hose at the washer supply and connect the dump station hose to it.
The connect from the RV water system is behind the pressure regulator and goes via the blue hose to the faucets for the tank washer. With pressure, I have a steady drip from the black check valve under the bathroom sink. When I turn on the valves to operate the washer, I get water dribbling from the faucets as well.

jsmith948
09-12-2017, 07:34 AM
When we use our black tank flush/rinse, we connect a separate (as in different) water hose to the black flush connection. It is set up this way to avoid any possible cross contamination with the de plumbing. If you can rinse your black tank by simply turning a valve, without connecting a separate hose, your trailer is plumbed incorrectly and you are in danger of black waste water contaminating your de system.

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notanlines
09-12-2017, 09:44 AM
Ski, I also concur with what has been said. The blue hose setup pictured above is not up to code anywhere. Your black tank rinse simply needs a completely separate 5/8 inch garden hose to supply the water. And I might add, running it off the exterior shower would cut down on your usable PSI/volume coming from your water source. Your black tank rinse needs all it can get to do the best job.

SkiSmuggs
09-12-2017, 12:15 PM
Thanks for the input. This is the way it came from dealer, but I see the bad possibilities of this setup. At least it won't leak when connected to city water when I disconnect the blue hose.

ScotnBev
09-12-2017, 01:40 PM
Your using the out side "shower" to supply water to the black tank sprayers. If the check value fails you will send black water into your fresh water supply.

My check value failed the first year I had my rig. Replaced with a brass one. No problems since.

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SkiSmuggs
09-12-2017, 03:18 PM
The lower connection has a factory sign that says "Caution: Sewer Tank Flusher. Sewer Valves Must Be Open When Using This Inlet"

I'm embarrassed to admit that this is the first time I actually read the sign, but it sounds like one needs to turn the faucets on first, then connect the hose to the inlet which would be difficult with water running out of the hose.

Okay, just read the message again and it says "Sewer VALVES". That must mean the dump valves and is to prevent overfilling the black tank.

sourdough
09-12-2017, 03:19 PM
The above posts are spot on. You need to remove the blue hose and get a completely separate hose for the black tank rinse. You probably should get something to put on the outlet for the shower faucet or you might get a face full of water when you turn on the valve :eek:

Add; just saw your note about the sticker on the black flush. Mine has it as well. It just means you need to open your black drain valve before turning the flush on or you could fill the tank.

SkiSmuggs
09-12-2017, 03:57 PM
Thanks for everyone's input. I've got it.

SkiSmuggs
09-17-2017, 06:30 AM
Just to close this out, I disconnected the blue hose from the inlet and have replaced the check valve with a new one. I will get a collapse able hose to use from the Y splitter I attach at the faucet only while washing the tank.

MattE303
09-22-2017, 11:41 AM
Just to close this out, I disconnected the blue hose from the inlet and have replaced the check valve with a new one. I will get a collapse able hose to use from the Y splitter I attach at the faucet only while washing the tank.Just to be on the safe side, it's a good idea to use a pressure regulator when you connect a water source to the black tank flush (eg. if a campground you're at has really high water pressure). The black tank flush plumbing isn't that robust and could be damaged by a high pressure source. To avoid any possible contamination, I have a dedicated pressure regulator that I use only for this purpose, and a different one used for filling the fresh tank or connecting to "city water" supply.

Pmedic4
09-24-2017, 07:29 PM
Sort of late now, just to add, yes the best place to get the backflow check valve is from Wal-mart. When our's failed, it wasn't a drip, the damn thing sprayed water all over the inside of the vanity cabinet on our Cougar. Noticed this, when our Black tank decided to block itself up too! We were really in the deep doo-doo. One thing at a time, went to the local RV dealership and they wanted $75 for that little plastic valve. Figured since I was still working on the clogged Black tank, I had time to check around and found the valve from Wal-mart for $34, and being less than half it definitely made sense, plus it arrived in 2 days.

The Black tank being clogged, that effort took another week to clear out. Won't share that fun with everyone....