Add a mini fridge?

[Sehj41]

We need some extra fridge space for our next trip! We are thinking about taking a residential mini fridge (3.4 cu f) with us to put in the garage. We will be on 30 amp shore power and have two a/c units...does anyone know if this is a good idea or will it pull too much power?

[SloMo]

My unit came with a small residential fridge in the back on top of the rv fridge in the kitchen and I run it everytime we're out. But on 30 amp I won't run the second AC. In PA the second AC unit is rarely ever needed. The 30 amp I'm on now ran 2 fridges, 15,000 AC, and the microwave with no issues.

[JRTJH]

I don't know if you'll be able to run both A/C's on 30 amp power. If you try it, be sure to monitor input voltage, if it drops below about 105 VAC, turn one of the A/C's off or you'll damage the compressors from low voltage which causes overheating. As for the small refrigerator, it should be OK if you're only using one air conditioner. If you do try to operate both, I'd run the small refrigerator on an extension cord plugged into the 15 amp socket on the campground power pole.

[Sehj41]

Thank y'all for the good info!

Pull the mini fridge out of the equation...So if I understood your replies correctly, I won't be able to run both a/c at the same time on 30 amp service? Because I wanted to run both a/c units at night if needed

I'm new to all this so this forum is priceless!

[JRTJH]

No, I don' t think you'll be able to run both A/C's at the same time on 30 amp power. Depending on how hot it is and how many other campers are using their A/C's, the input power from your power pedestal may already be on the low end. If so, then it will make your voltage drop even more significant. Trying to run your trailer on 30 amps is no problem if you manage your power use efficiently. Trying to run "anything you want" won't work and if you have low voltage coming into the trailer because other campers are also using power, it only makes the problem worse.

I'll repeat what I said previously, "If you try it, be sure to monitor input voltage, if it drops below about 105 VAC, turn one of the A/C's off or you'll damage the compressors from low voltage which causes overheating." If you don't have a volt meter, you can buy one for $10 at most RV stores. If you try it "blindly" and just ignore the input power, you may be buying one or possibly two replacement air conditioners after your trip.

[ctbruce]

Ron the main AC and then some fans. Thst would be doable. Just don't heat water in the microwave and use your hair dryer.

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[Sehj41]

No, I don' t think you'll be able to run both A/C's at the same time on 30 amp power. Depending on how hot it is and how many other campers are using their A/C's, the input power from your power pedestal may already be on the low end. If so, then it will make your voltage drop even more significant. Trying to run your trailer on 30 amps is no problem if you manage your power use efficiently. Trying to run "anything you want" won't work and if you have low voltage coming into the trailer because other campers are also using power, it only makes the problem worse.

I'll repeat what I said previously, "If you try it, be sure to monitor input voltage, if it drops below about 105 VAC, turn one of the A/C's off or you'll damage the compressors from low voltage which causes overheating." If you don't have a volt meter, you can buy one for $10 at most RV stores. If you try it "blindly" and just ignore the input power, you may be buying one or possibly two replacement air conditioners after your trip.


We do have a voltage meter and GReAT advice! Thx!!

[sourdough]

I think I would do as Chip suggested. Trying to run 2 ACs on 30A is questionable at best. IF you were able to get them both to run reliably, and that is a BIG if, you then run the possibility of burning them up....plus, you won't be able to use anything else electrically (AC). JMO

[B-O-B'03]

...I'll repeat what I said previously, "If you try it, be sure to monitor input voltage, if it drops below about 105 VAC, turn one of the A/C's off or you'll damage the compressors from low voltage which causes overheating." If you don't have a volt meter, you can buy one for $10 at most RV stores. If you try it "blindly" and just ignore the input power, you may be buying one or possibly two replacement air conditioners after your trip.

A progressive EMS will do that for you automatically, you just do not have a choice when it will cut the power off.

-Brian

[Outback 325BH]

I often run two a/c units when plugged into 30 amp service, however not much else can be on. Also, one unit is a 15k and the other is a 13.5k.

It is doable, but you can't run much else.

A PI EMS allows you to see how many amps you are pulling. I recommend that (or something similar) so you know exactly what current is.


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[Sehj41]

A progressive EMS will do that for you automatically, you just do not have a choice when it will cut the power off.

-Brian

What is a progressive ems??

[Johnny's Journey]

What is a progressive ems??EMS-Electronic Managing System. Your volt meter maybe one. Does it serve as a surge protector as well and display load conditions.

[spicercars]

We put a mini fridge in the garage in our toy hauler and love it. As for the voltage we have the camco voltage gauge. Would never go camping without it.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Camco-55263-AC-Line-Voltage-Meter-RV-Parts-/261616032452?epid=654216367&hash=item3ce987dac4:g:4GsAAOSw~gRV5444&vxp=mtr

[sourdough]

What is a progressive ems??

I think the two most popular surge guard/EMS systems are Surge Guard and Progressive brands. Google them and get one; especially if you are running 2 ACs on 30A. I recommend getting the more expensive unit; they cost more but do so much more and tell you more, ie; protect you more.

[Johnny's Journey]

^^^^^ They are nice. You can almost leave the multi tester at home. That how much info it can give you on it's own.

[Foust]

I have two old R12 fridges in an unheated garage and there is a noticeable difference in their operation, summer and winter. But it’s nothing I’m concerned about because they are full of beer; but the temperature fluctuations I can tolerate for a bottle of beer may not be suitable for food.
So, you pays your money and you takes your choice.
There’s nothing to stop you putting your fridge in an igloo, if you want to, but it may not work as well as it would in a nice heated kitchen where it was intended to go..
But here are two plausible reasons why a minimum temperature limit is suggested by manufacturers and may affect the operation.
The first will be familiar to split air conditioning engineers as over condensing.
If the condenser is too cold there is a possibility of the refrigerant gaining too much sub-cooling, reduced condenser pressure and reduced flow through the capillary tubes feeding the evaporator. In other words, there will be a reduction in the machine’s capability to do its work. This may result in damage, long term.
Hydrocarbons (R-600 and the like) obey the same laws of thermodynamics as everything else. Their transport properties are selected to be close to the conventional CFC and HFC refrigerants https://bestoutdooritems.com/best-outdoor-refrigerator/ I like to watch YouTube videos of a similar theme when I'm looking for information about the right product. I hope this helps someone in the future. Good luck!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SuWQ32USkzA

[hookd]

We thought about doing the same thing coming from a bumper pull with an outdoor kitchen we missed the extra fridge space. But with the toy hauler we aren't plugged in very often so we got a 65 can Rtic cooler. Keeps ice for over a week and was about the same price as the fridge.