Truck question

[Cheryl]

New to towing and I had a question in regards to the truck. We went on a trip with some fairly high passes (Banff - Jasper highway). Didn't realize they were so high. I had read the owners manual for towing before going but it's not so clear. Was going to call the truck dealer to ask about towing but thought I'd probably get better info here. The truck is a 2015 GMC half tonne. We had to have trailer brakes installed where they were put just above the brakes (we were told we could have the same ones as some of the other trucks had; up by the steering wheel: not so). Anyway, the trailer brakes are set and there's no way to adjust while driving. There's a tow haul mode on an arm by the steering wheel with a plus and minus button.

One the trip I assumed we just set the tow haul mode and that was it. Going up the steep hill, we stopped at a pull through half way and panicked when we both smelled a burning smell. Waited about 20-30 minutes and then continued.

On the way home, we went down a steep hill with tow mode on. I could hear the truck shifting and didn't ride the brakes only applying periodically. Thought I did well. When we got to the bottom, my husband felt the hubcaps on truck and trailer and the front ones on the truck were very hot. He could'nt leave his hand on it. Waited about half an hour.

Is this normal when towing? Do you have to do something else besides the tow haul? Worried about the hills now. We started by getting the truck first so I could get used to driving it. Been driving it for a year and feel comfortable. I've never had to "downshift" a vehicle before. Do I need to with tow mode? If so, how is this done and how do you know when to? I was hoping this would be easy. I'm not so mechanically inclined and even the terminology gets me.

I know it's a busy camping time for all but any help would be appreciated!

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[kfxgreenie]

Was this trip towing an RV and if so how big and how heavy?

[Cheryl]

It's a 25 ft trailer and we don't take very much. It's well under the tow rating for the vehicle.

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[chuckster57]

What brake controller did they install? Brand/model.

[sourdough]

Numbers are critical in a situation like yours. What is the trailer weight? If you don't have scale weights what does the trailer sticker say...or, just tell us exactly what trailer you have. The specs on the 1/2 ton is very helpful as well.

I will tell you that running high mountains and passes, with a 1/2 ton and a 25' trailer can get you in trouble if you aren't equipped and experienced - I see it virtually every week.

If you are overweight, don't know how to manage the trailer/truck combo, don't have the trailer brake controller set correctly or ? ? ? you can/will burn up the brakes on truck/trailer, lose control etc. You are at a disadvantage with the 1/2 ton carrying any kind of weight in those long grades up/down. More info would be helpful. And yes, if you aren't set up correctly the smell of burning brake linings, overheating engines can/will happen and can ruin your day....greatly.

[Cheryl]

What brake controller did they install? Brand/model. It's a prodigy p2

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[Cheryl]

It's a prodigy p2

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[Cheryl]

It is a 2015 1500 Series 4wd double cab standard box. 5.3L V8. Axle ratio is 3.42. Max trailer weight is 4173 kg or 9,200 lbs. GCWR is 6804 kg or 15,000 lbs.

Trailer is a Keystone Hideout (west) 26 RLSWE. Dry weight 6150 lbs. GVWR 7620 lbs.

2 people in truck. All tanks empty.

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[Cheryl]

The smell we noticed wad on going up the hill. Not down.

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[chuckster57]

Ok. At least they installed a top notch controller. Did you get the paperwork and quick start guide with it?

If not then go to the tekonsha website and get it. It will explain how to set the controller for proper towing. Coming down hills can be daunting if your not familiar with the controller, how it functions and proper set up. I have a prodigy (first gen) and I don't heat up my truck brakes bringing 16,000 pounds down a steep grade. I DON'T have tow/haul mode so I "work" the trailer brakes a bit and then both.

I'm on my iPhone so typing out the whole explanation would give me a callous on my finger LOL. If someone doesn't explain it to you, I will get to my iPad where it's easier to type.

[Cheryl]

The gauge was normal for the engine temperature.

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[chuckster57]

The smell we noticed wad on going up the hill. Not down.

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If your smelling brakes going UP the hill, then there is something wrong with the way your controller was installed, or set up.

[Cheryl]

If your smelling brakes going UP the hill, then there is something wrong with the way your controller was installed, or set up. Well I'm not sure it was the brakes?? Very faint but there. It was a hot day.

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[Cheryl]

Ok. At least they installed a top notch controller. Did you get the paperwork and quick start guide with it?

If not then go to the tekonsha website and get it. It will explain how to set the controller for proper towing. Coming down hills can be daunting if your not familiar with the controller, how it functions and proper set up. I have a prodigy (first gen) and I don't heat up my truck brakes bringing 16,000 pounds down a steep grade. I DON'T have tow/haul mode so I "work" the trailer brakes a bit and then both.

I'm on my iPhone so typing out the whole explanation would give me a callous on my finger LOL. If someone doesn't explain it to you, I will get to my iPad where it's easier to type.I do have the paperwork here and when we went to have the tow bars installed, they also set up the brake for us which was put in by our truck dealer. The displays say we are getting power. We were there and they seemed to know and have experience?

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[Desert185]

A quick reference guide comes with the P2. I would review it and ensure they set the controller properly for the weight of the trailer.

[Cheryl]

A quick reference guide comes with the P2. I would review it and ensure they set the controller properly for the weight of the trailer.I have the quick reference guide but its not so helpful. It talks about boost features but I believe you have to set that while driving? The controller is down by my feet and as I'm only 5'2", any changes need to be done before driving as it would be too dangerous to try to do while driving. I even watched some u tube videos on how to get the right number, but that required driving 25 mph and applying the manual knob!

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[Cheryl]

Should I be doing anything with the plus and minus buttons on the tow haul arm? Or do you think it might be the trailer brakes?

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[Ken / Claudia]

The uphill smell might be the transmission. One way to check if you over heated it is smell and look at the dip stick. Burn odor is bad, color unless changed in that truck would be a red wine color.

[chuckster57]

I don't know about tow/haul mode since I don't have that brand of truck or that option. As t,setting the controller:

The prodigy has a wheel on the left side that sets how much voltage goes to the brakes. The button on the right side sets "boost" kind of like an extra shot to the brakes. The lever on the bottom manually applies the brakes, the further you move it the more voltage applied.
Boost is set by looking at the weights of the truck and trailer. My trailer weighs more than my truck so I run boost 1, when coming down a steep grade I will up it to boost 2 and then back to boost 1 on flat ground.

The controller will apply voltage based on vehicle speed, so if your sitting still and press the truck brakes, the controller won't send much if any voltage to the brakes. Adjustments should be made at 30MPH on a dry road preferable empty road.

BEFORE You start adjusting anything, with the trailer plugged in and sitting still, move the manual lever all the way to the left and then using the left wheel adjust it so the reading is about 4.5. Then go out on the road, and hit the truck brakes a few times.
if the trailer feels like it's PUSHING you, turn the voltage UP
If the trailer is YANKING YOU BACK, turn the voltage down.

ALL ADJUSTMENTS NEED TO BE VERY SMALL, meaning move the voltage adjusting wheel just a tiny bit and try again. Ideally you want the trailer to just "pull on your shoulder" a bit if that makes sense.

The above adjustments should be made AFTER setting the boost.

When decending a steep grade, by all means use tow/haul mode. You can use the manual lever to help slow things down and if your normal set is boost 1 for example, feel free to up it to boost 2 or 3 depending on steepness of grade, just be aware that upping the boost will make the trailer brakes grab a lot more.

Hope this helps, it takes a bit of practice, but you'll get it.

[Cheryl]

I don't know about tow/haul mode since I don't have that brand of truck or that option. As t,setting the controller:

The prodigy has a wheel on the left side that sets how much voltage goes to the brakes. The button on the right side sets "boost" kind of like an extra shot to the brakes. The lever on the bottom manually applies the brakes, the further you move it the more voltage applied.
Boost is set by looking at the weights of the truck and trailer. My trailer weighs more than my truck so I run boost 1, when coming down a steep grade I will up it to boost 2 and then back to boost 1 on flat ground.

The controller will apply voltage based on vehicle speed, so if your sitting still and press the truck brakes, the controller won't send much if any voltage to the brakes. Adjustments should be made at 30MPH on a dry road preferable empty road.

BEFORE You start adjusting anything, with the trailer plugged in and sitting still, move the manual lever all the way to the left and then using the left wheel adjust it so the reading is about 4.5. Then go out on the road, and hit the truck brakes a few times.
if the trailer feels like it's PUSHING you, turn the voltage UP
If the trailer is YANKING YOU BACK, turn the voltage down.

ALL ADJUSTMENTS NEED TO BE VERY SMALL, meaning move the voltage adjusting wheel just a tiny bit and try again. Ideally you want the trailer to just "pull on your shoulder" a bit if that makes sense.

The above adjustments should be made AFTER setting the boost.

When decending a steep grade, by all means use tow/haul mode. You can use the manual lever to help slow things down and if your normal set is boost 1 for example, feel free to up it to boost 2 or 3 depending on steepness of grade, just be aware that upping the boost will make the trailer brakes grab a lot more.

Hope this helps, it takes a bit of practice, but you'll get it.Thanks for the encouragement! I'm not able to make changes while driving so I can set the boost to b2 or 3 when I'm stopped before a steep grade down, then stop at the bottom to reset to b1?

I'd do the setting adjustments testing with b1 on? Assuming you don't change the settings if you change it to b2 for a hill?

Maybe have to find a quiet road to check it all. Spent many hours practicing backing in and it sure helped! [emoji3]

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[Cheryl]

The uphill smell might be the transmission. One way to check if you over heated it is smell and look at the dip stick. Burn odor is bad, color unless changed in that truck would be a red wine color. Thanks, I'll check with the shop as to the colour. Wouldn't the truck gauges indicate if the engine was hot?

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[Johnny's Journey]

Cheryl I have the nearly the same set up. My trailer is 25 ft also but my truck is exactly what you have. As mentioned before from yourself and other's. Up hill may have been the transmission, maybe not. There is a way to monitor the transmission temp by using the information button's on the dash. I suggest finding it and leaving the info on full time display while towing. The transmission temp will climb with those 3:42 gears out back. As far as driving in M (manual) I recommend using M4. This will help a lot on the down hill to prevent speed up's even though your foot is off gas pedal. Back to M but up hill now. Don't be afraid to down shift it to M3 if needed (will help eliminate sudden down shifts and up shifts) and take your time climbing all the while monitory the transmission. And of course look into the brakes. Truck, trailer, and their functioning together as mention by other's. Oh, play with the manual shifting function/option with trailer not attached so you can get familiar with how it works and what it can do as far as assistance in towing. It's not hard. Slow and easy at first and easy does it. Your 1500 may say 9200 lbs but my drivers seat say's no way. Not with 3:42's any ways.

[chuckster57]

Once you know which wheel/button does what on the controller you should be able to do it by feel. It just takes time behind the wheel. We were all new and nervous at one time. Practice, practice, practice.

I'm currently talking a friend through pulling a Reflection 303 ( 11,000 pound fiver) from Tennessee back to Sacramento and he's never towed anything more than a utility trailer to the dumps.

[Cheryl]

Cheryl I have the nearly the same set up. My trailer is 25 ft also but my truck is exactly what you have. As mentioned before from yourself and other's. Up hill may have been the transmission, maybe not. There is a way to monitor the transmission temp by using the information button's on the dash. I suggest finding it and leaving the info on full time display while towing. The transmission temp will climb with those 3:42 gears out back. As far as driving in M (manual) I recommend using M4. This will help a lot on the down hill to prevent speed up's even though your foot is off gas pedal. Back to M but up hill now. Don't be afraid to down shift it to M3 if needed (will help eliminate sudden down shifts and up shifts) and take your time climbing all the while monitory the transmission. And of course look into the brakes. Truck, trailer, and their functioning together as mention by other's. Oh, play with the manual shifting function/option with trailer not attached so you can get familiar with how it works and what it can do as for as assistance in towing. It's not hard. Slow and easy at first and easy does it. Your 1500 may say 9200 lbs but my drivers seat say's no way. Thanks! That's why I wanted to go with a lighter trailer and prefer to drive with empty tanks and a light load. I watch everything that goes in.

I will keep the info transmission monitor on. So the M setting is like being in drive? Just looking through the manual, so what does M1 through 6 indicate? you use M4 for downhill and M3 for uphill? The steeper the grade, the higher the number?

Heading to Windermere through the mountains without the trailer so I can test it this weekend.

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[Cheryl]

Once you know which wheel/button does what on the controller you should be able to do it by feel. It just takes time behind the wheel. We were all new and nervous at one time. Practice, practice, practice.

I'm currently talking a friend through pulling a Reflection 303 ( 11,000 pound fiver) from Tennessee back to Sacramento and he's never towed anything more than a utility trailer to the dumps.Lol! So all these adjustments need to be done while driving or can I set the boost while stopped? I've been driving everyday since I was 16 so I'm a careful confident driver. This is different but I'm sure with time it gets easier. I do wish the controller was higher up but they told me it needed to be there as there was no where else.

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[Johnny's Journey]

Thanks! That's why I wanted to go with a lighter trailer and prefer to drive with empty tanks and a light load. I watch everything that goes in.

I will keep the info transmission monitor on. So the M setting is like being in drive? Just looking through the manual, so what does M1 through 6 indicate? you use M4 for downhill and M3 for uphill? The steeper the grade, the higher the number?

Heading to Windermere through the mountains without the trailer so I can test it this weekend. M can be like D (drive) in some regards. Example, I like towing always in M4 (just my own preference) most of the time (flat areas). In M4 the truck will up shift from a stop up to only 4th gear (the last gear before either over drive gears 5 and 6 come in) and will down shift on it's own as you come to a stop. Still works like an automatic but only 4 speeds. About M3 up hill. I press the minus button and it down shifts to 3. I do this ahead of time when I know the grade is more the 4th can handle. Once at the summit I'll press the plus button and back to 4th it will shift to. Yes, play with it and see what happens. I'm sure you'll be pleased with the findings. Good luck.

[Cheryl]

M can be like D (drive) in some regards. Example, I like towing always in M4 (just my own preference) most of the time (flat areas). In M4 the truck will up shift from a stop up to only 4th gear (the last gear before either over drive gears 5 and 6 come in) and will down shift on it's own as you come to a stop. Still works like an automatic but only 4 speeds. About M3 up hill. I press the minus button and it down shifts to 3. I do this ahead of time when I know the grade is more the 4th can handle. Once at the summit I'll press the plus button and back to 4th it will shift to. Yes, play with it and see what happens. I'm sure you'll be pleased with the findings. Good luck.Thanks! Trailering is quite fun.

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[mtofell]

You've got to be able to reach a trailer brake while driving. Plain and simple. If you can't, park the trailer until you have someone relocate it to where you can. This is like driving a car where you can't reach the brake pedal.

Aside from the adjustments being talked about, there is a lever to be able to apply just the trailer brakes (without the vehicle brakes). This is CRITICAL in a situation where your trailer starts to sway. Applying the trailer brake only creates tension between truck and trailer and stops the sway.

At the risk of sounding harsh, rolling down a mountain pass is not the time to be learning your equipment. Aside from yourself, there are a lot of other people out there counting on you to have this stuff figured out BEFORE heading out.

[sourdough]

Thanks, I'll check with the shop as to the colour. Wouldn't the truck gauges indicate if the engine was hot?

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I'm not familiar with your dash layout but yes, you should have a gauge (I hope) that would show if your "engine" was hot. That could be because of a problem with the coolant or engine oil (not full). The smell should be a tell tale of what's going on; coolant, oil, trans fluid, brakes all have a distinctive smell that tells you what it is right away. If you don't know what those smells are you have to look for overheating or leaks. If your truck can monitor trans. temp you need to watch it along with your engine temp. If it was brakes, and it was going uphill, your trailer brakes could be out of adjustment.

I'm afraid that you're working your truck very hard on those kinds of grades with a 3.42 ratio. A 3.42 isn't really a towing ratio and combined with 7000 lbs. and long steep grades there's no telling what it may be doing.

[Cheryl]

I'm not familiar with your dash layout but yes, you should have a gauge (I hope) that would show if your "engine" was hot. That could be because of a problem with the coolant or engine oil (not full). The smell should be a tell tale of what's going on; coolant, oil, trans fluid, brakes all have a distinctive smell that tells you what it is right away. If you don't know what those smells are you have to look for overheating or leaks. If your truck can monitor trans. temp you need to watch it along with your engine temp. If it was brakes, and it was going uphill, your trailer brakes could be out of adjustment.

I'm afraid that you're working your truck very hard on those kinds of grades with a 3.42 ratio. A 3.42 isn't really a towing ratio and combined with 7000 lbs. and long steep grades there's no telling what it may be doing.Thanks! I'll check into the fluids. And gauges.

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[chuckster57]

You've got to be able to reach a trailer brake while driving. Plain and simple. If you can't, park the trailer until you have someone relocate it to where you can. This is like driving a car where you can't reach the brake pedal.



Aside from the adjustments being talked about, there is a lever to be able to apply just the trailer brakes (without the vehicle brakes). This is CRITICAL in a situation where your trailer starts to sway. Applying the trailer brake only creates tension between truck and trailer and stops the sway.



At the risk of sounding harsh, rolling down a mountain pass is not the time to be learning your equipment. Aside from yourself, there are a lot of other people out there counting on you to have this stuff figured out BEFORE heading out.


I agree, if you can't reach the controller to manually apply trailer brakes it needs to be moved. Mine on the bottom of the dash, but over by the go pedal so I can see and operate it if needed. It sounds to me like the dealer either didnt have the proper harness to allow the controller to be placed in a better location or they were too lazy. On any case I would insist that they relocate it so you can see the display and operate it while driving.

[Jeepshots]

Cheryl, the M mode for the transmission is a manual mode. You're setting the highest possible gear that the transmission is allowed to use when you jump into the M numbers. So, M3 means the transmission can only shift as high as 3rd gear. Going up hill, you want the engine in the power band (range of RPMs) and that's usually pretty high. The transmission wants to shift to keep the engine in the low RPMs. By restricting it to M3, it has to stay in 3rd gear (or lower, depending on speed). If you select M5, that means fifth gear is the highest it'll shift to. It's really just a gear limiter - can't shift higher than whatever M number you've set it to. So you use it to keep the engine RPMs up high. This gives you some braking assistance going down hill, and power going up hill. Just gotta go slower, that's all.

Second thing - the reason they wanted to install the brake controller down under the dash is that the controller needs to be flat, so it can feel the acceleration/deceleration, hills and what not. My blind suggestion (because I don't know the inside of your truck) is to locate a place on the dash that's flat, and relocate the brake controller there. In my Durango, I mounted the controller between the driver's A-pillar and the instrument cluster hump of the dash. there was just enough room and it was flat enough to work. I bought some industrial velcro, and used that. Ran the wires down beside the dash. That way, i could unplug it, rip it off the dash and store it in the glove box when i wasn't towing. But it was easy to hook back up when i needed it. Chuckster and the others are spot on - the controller must be moved to where you can manipulate the controls while you're driving. Might be worth taking it back to the installer (if possible) and having them move it. They just took the easy way out. If there's no other possible place, look at changing controllers. That manufacturer (I can't spell it and am too lazy to look it up) makes one that can mount in just about any orientation, as long as it's facing forwards in some manner. And that means it can be higher up the dash towards you since it opens up mounting options. That's the one I had...

[chuckster57]

Prodigy doesn't care at what angle it's mounted, only requirement is in line front to back with the body line of the tow vehicle. Pendulum style controllers need to be set and adjusted for the weight to swing. ONE of the main reasons I bought my prodigy when they were first introduced .

[Desert185]

Cheryl, the M mode for the transmission is a manual mode. You're setting the highest possible gear that the transmission is allowed to use when you jump into the M numbers. So, M3 means the transmission can only shift as high as 3rd gear. Going up hill, you want the engine in the power band (range of RPMs) and that's usually pretty high. The transmission wants to shift to keep the engine in the low RPMs. By restricting it to M3, it has to stay in 3rd gear (or lower, depending on speed). If you select M5, that means fifth gear is the highest it'll shift to. It's really just a gear limiter - can't shift higher than whatever M number you've set it to. So you use it to keep the engine RPMs up high. This gives you some braking assistance going down hill, and power going up hill. Just gotta go slower, that's all.

Second thing - the reason they wanted to install the brake controller down under the dash is that the controller needs to be flat, so it can feel the acceleration/deceleration, hills and what not. My blind suggestion (because I don't know the inside of your truck) is to locate a place on the dash that's flat, and relocate the brake controller there. In my Durango, I mounted the controller between the driver's A-pillar and the instrument cluster hump of the dash. there was just enough room and it was flat enough to work. I bought some industrial velcro, and used that. Ran the wires down beside the dash. That way, i could unplug it, rip it off the dash and store it in the glove box when i wasn't towing. But it was easy to hook back up when i needed it. Chuckster and the others are spot on - the controller must be moved to where you can manipulate the controls while you're driving. Might be worth taking it back to the installer (if possible) and having them move it. They just took the easy way out. If there's no other possible place, look at changing controllers. That manufacturer (I can't spell it and am too lazy to look it up) makes one that can mount in just about any orientation, as long as it's facing forwards in some manner. And that means it can be higher up the dash towards you since it opens up mounting options. That's the one I had...

The P2 that she has doesn't need to be mounted flat. It self compensates.

[chuckster57]

The P2 that she has doesn't need to be mounted flat. It self compensates.



Looks like we were typing at the same time.

I bought my prodigy when Tekonsha touted 2nd generation. Mine is old enough that it has red LED display and will not work with electric over hydraulic.

[ctbruce]

Cheryl, It sounds like you had the dealer install the controller? If do, I'd take it to a trailer place and have them mount it for you. They do this install a lot more than a dealer does and you should get better results. Good luck.

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[Cheryl]

I really appreciate all this information. Took the truck through the mountains without trailer and tried the manual gears. My first car was a Volkswagen fastback and then the Westfalia so I'm familiar with a stick shift. I suppose this is similar. One question, coming down a hill, I geared down. Then into 2nd then 3rd, and then we were flat. I stopped to put it back into drive, as i didn't think i could go from 3rd to D direct? Haven't tried going up yet but seems like i want the rpms fairly high ( especially with a trailer) going up?

I'll be taking the truck to a trailer shop to check on the position of the brakes. It will be good though to go in with this extra information. Much appreciated. I was just told that once they were set you were good to go.

I did take a trailering course but of course, we didn't do mountains. :). Also practiced driving a truck for a year before getting a trailer.


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[Johnny's Journey]

You can shift it up or down manually to any desired gear while driving. Just so you know M6 is just like being in D and will shift automatically as if in D. I strongly suggest you become very familiar with using M before towing. Down shifting it at the wrong RPM going down hill can result into some bad things.

[Rusty]

Just some constructive criticism here, don't take it wrong Cheryl.

You should have taken the truck and trailer combo for a drive around the Foothills area, and/or the prairies outside Calgary, there are miles of roads that you can tool around for hours on a Saturday or Sunday to get used to how it feels, plus with the winds that we can experience here can in certain places be quite jarring, last weekend we came back from Cold Lake and the wind coming from the west just outside Red Deer was very strong, the fifth wheel was bobbing and weaving quite dramatically, passed quite a few Travel Trailers that were dancing dangerously close to other vehicles.

The wind in the mountains can be a lot for some to handle, and if you are a newbie to towing a trailer it can be downright scary.

So a less traveled road in the prairies would be a great start to 1) setting up the brakes, 2) learning how to tow.

I know when I first started pulling a fifth wheel I went to a WalMArt/Mall parking lot to practice basic backing practices. Mind you I also drove a 5 ton cargo while in the Army in Germany.......

Happy camping. Check out Waiporous outside Ghost River some of the best camping around the Southern Alberta area, only thing is there are no services, which suits us just fine.

http://www.redrocksawmills.com/index.php/campgrounds/waiparous

[canesfan]

Lol! So all these adjustments need to be done while driving or can I set the boost while stopped? I've been driving everyday since I was 16 so I'm a careful confident driver. This is different but I'm sure with time it gets easier. I do wish the controller was higher up but they told me it needed to be there as there was no where else.

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WHY did they put the controller down there??? That is total nonsense that it HAS to be down there. The prodigy can be mounted at a pretty steep angle. I forget the exact number. I have mine mounted to the right of the steering column on the bottom slope of the dash. It is just to the right of my right knee. I can grab it easily if I need to and adjust it easily when I need to. If I had to guess it's probably at a 75* angle or so. There is NO reason that I know of why it needs to be down by your brakes pedal. It SHOULD be where you can reach it...EASILY...at all times.

Edit - I just read some more posts, the Prodigy does NOT need to be mounted flat front to back, only side to side. As Chuckster said it needs to be in line with the vehicle side to side, but front to back angle does NOT need to be flat by any means.

Edit 2 - The original Prodigy was 70*, the P2 is a full 360* vertical mounting.

[chuckster57]

Edit 2 - The original Prodigy was 70*, the P2 is a full 360* vertical mounting.


I'll have to check, but I bet mine is steeper than 70*. I wonder if that was 1st generation.

[canesfan]

I'll have to check, but I bet mine is steeper than 70*. I wonder if that was 1st generation.

I can't remember if my original was a 1 or a 2, but it was mounted in the same place at the same angle as my current one, and it worked fine...until one day I was on the DOWNSIDE of the Chesapeake Bay Bridge and it died. That was fun...NOT. I think I'll take my angle thingy out to the truck and see if I can figure what angle it's really at.

[Gapopper]

Wow , y'all taught me something about my Tundra. It has a M shift also. I didn't know it could be used as a limiter too. That's good to know when towing my 8500 lb Springdale up a mountain.

[Johnny's Journey]

Wow , y'all taught me something about my Tundra. It has a M shift also. I didn't know it could be used as a limiter too. That's good to know when towing my 8500 lb Springdale up a mountain.M or manual only means the selector will give you what ever gear you choice in a towing application. It does not mean Manual as in Stick Shift. Big difference. No one is drag racing or rally racing trailers here. The M is there also do to transmissions having more forward gears. Could you imagine looking at the dash and seeing P RND54321 or even P RND87654321. The shifter lever would have to nearly go all the way around. Your shifter is there like in olden days and is easy to understand because of that. But many shift selectors today only send info to the computer and there isn't an actual shift rod or lever anymore out side of the interior of the vehicle.

[Gapopper]

I understand. I couldn't figure out why if I had it set at 5 and came to a stop , how come it would start out in 1. It makes sense now. It forces the engine to stay in the optimum rpm range.

[Johnny's Journey]

^^^^^ BINGO !!!!!!!!!!!!! :bow:

[the sodfather]

https://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-47297-INSIGHT-Brake-Control/dp/B00C5THYIK


I had this in my previous TV. It is awesome. You can mount your controls anywhere. New TV has built in brake controller so my INSIGHT became a gift for my brother.

[Cheryl]

Just some constructive criticism here, don't take it wrong Cheryl.

You should have taken the truck and trailer combo for a drive around the Foothills area, and/or the prairies outside Calgary, there are miles of roads that you can tool around for hours on a Saturday or Sunday to get used to how it feels, plus with the winds that we can experience here can in certain places be quite jarring, last weekend we came back from Cold Lake and the wind coming from the west just outside Red Deer was very strong, the fifth wheel was bobbing and weaving quite dramatically, passed quite a few Travel Trailers that were dancing dangerously close to other vehicles.

The wind in the mountains can be a lot for some to handle, and if you are a newbie to towing a trailer it can be downright scary.

So a less traveled road in the prairies would be a great start to 1) setting up the brakes, 2) learning how to tow.

I know when I first started pulling a fifth wheel I went to a WalMArt/Mall parking lot to practice basic backing practices. Mind you I also drove a 5 ton cargo while in the Army in Germany.......

Happy camping. Check out Waiporous outside Ghost River some of the best camping around the Southern Alberta area, only thing is there are no services, which suits us just fine.

http://www.redrocksawmills.com/index.php/campgrounds/waiparousNone taken. I do appreciate feedback and thanks for the campground suggestion. I did spend many hours in an empty church parking lot which was very helpful. Also did lots of quiet road towing as well as traveling on less busy days. Mostly sticking close to home for a few seasons. Avoiding the QE 2 for awhile!

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[Cheryl]

WHY did they put the controller down there??? That is total nonsense that it HAS to be down there. The prodigy can be mounted at a pretty steep angle. I forget the exact number. I have mine mounted to the right of the steering column on the bottom slope of the dash. It is just to the right of my right knee. I can grab it easily if I need to and adjust it easily when I need to. If I had to guess it's probably at a 75* angle or so. There is NO reason that I know of why it needs to be down by your brakes pedal. It SHOULD be where you can reach it...EASILY...at all times.

Edit - I just read some more posts, the Prodigy does NOT need to be mounted flat front to back, only side to side. As Chuckster said it needs to be in line with the vehicle side to side, but front to back angle does NOT need to be flat by any means.

Edit 2 - The original Prodigy was 70*, the P2 is a full 360* vertical mounting.Thanks, will be taking it in to redo the position of it.

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[Cheryl]

^^^^^ BINGO !!!!!!!!!!!!! [emoji144]Practiced the manual mode going to Radium without the trailer. Very helpful and learned lots. What fun, driving a truck! Was able to slowly gear down on the hills without having to use the brakes too much. Also geared down going up. Seems easier on the truck.

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[Johnny's Journey]

Practiced the manual mode going to Radium without the trailer. Very helpful and learned lots. What fun, driving a truck! Was able to slowly gear down on the hills without having to use the brakes too much. Also geared down going up. Seems easier on the truck. Awesome your seeing what benefits can be had when using M. I'm again going to cation you on down shifting when all ready committed going down hill. DO NOT DOWN SHIFT. Carefully reread how I said I use mine. I said I always tow in M4 and use M3 only on up hill grades (when needed). M4 will help keep your truck from gaining speed down hill where as D will allow it to pick up speed.