Corner/Roof molding replacement?

[sjturbo]

I say corner/roof molding since it is at the rear of the Laredo 5'r and continues from the vertical side and on to the roof by about 1.5 feet. I know this could easily be a DIY but I want a repair shop to do it. But my dilemma is I want it to look like factory. The entire molding needs to be replaced. There is no with the fiberglass panels. OEM appears to be molding sealed with silicone (no tape), on the vertical and dicor on the roof. One shop wants to use butyl tape under the molding to insure water tight seal. My concern is the tape will not look factory due to the added thickness and will not sit evenly when screwed in. Can anyone support any other options?

[JRTJH]

Butyl tape is not "really tape", but a form of putty that "compresses" as the molding is tightened against the trailer structure. Essentially, there is no "additional thickness" with the use of butyl tape. Everything I've added to my trailer and everything I've removed to reseal, from windows to baggage doors to awning rails and gutters has all been "reinstalled with butyl tape".

I'd be much more concerned that they didn't use butyl. I'd surely question their competence if they omitted that "vital step"......

[sjturbo]

Thanks JRTJH for the quick response. I have used Butyl tape many times in the past for reseals on windows and some of the past units for molding reseals. Thing is with this molding it only is screwed on one side, (rear), which will likely take care of the compression. my concern is the side which has no screws may not look as good. Also can silicon be applied to cover the "tape" seam to make it look factory?
BTW I saw a product on ytube, Seal-tite by Dicor, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OpVkMsGwds4. Looks very interesting. Thanks again!

[JRTJH]

I saw seal-tite on the shelf at Camping World last time I was there. I've never used it and can't give you any "experienced opinon"...

It looked to me (just my first glance opinion) that it's a "Dicor adaption of Eterna-bond" in a different size. Whether it's better, last longer or is just another "make it faster for the manufacturer" kind of product??? I suppose we'll see once it gets into the field in sufficient quantities to have a "reputation'... So far, it looks like a 2" roll of Eterna-bond to me.

ADDED: Something you might consider: If you allow the repair facility to repair your trailer using "standard, conventional techniques" and you don't like the look, you can complain and probably get them to redo what you don't like. If, however, you give them specific instructions on how to repair it and what to use, any problems that might arise will likely be "your fault" since you directed them on what to do and what to use. If anything happens, it'll probably be "your problem".... Just my thought on telling professionals how to do their job...... That's not to suggest that discussing what you expect and what they can deliver isn't appropriate, what you expect surely is a valid consideration, but getting into the "how and what to use" might cause issues later on.

ADDED/ADDED: Thinking about your questions after I posted this, you might want to consider that if you do suggest/use the Dicor Seal-Tite tape, it is probably thicker than the butyl tape that you're concerned will cause the molding to "stand away" from the FILON panel. If you add the tape and the butyl putty, you'll even make that gap "stand out further"....

[sjturbo]

Update: I decided to let the repair shop do it their way (conventional). The molding looked great, (placement and level). Unfortunately when removing the old silicone they also removed paint on the skirting, did not do a "professional job" applying the new silicone, and somehow also removed some paint (to much rubbing) from the new molding. The devil is in the details! As I once read "there's never enough time to do it right the first time, but there's always enough time to do it again.