What is supposed to work while "unplugged"

[Harleydodge]

This may come across as a "Newbie" question, (mostly because I am), but what is actually supposed to work while not plugged into shore power and running off battery.
I Don't know why I haven't tried this until now, but it seems that when I am unplugged from shore power, only 12v seems to work.
I would have thought that at least some lower draw items, such as a TV would work, but it seems that that is not the case.
There does not seem to be any "converted" power anywhere.
12v side works fine. Trailer is equipped with 2 new deep cycles.
Does this sound like I have an issue with the inverter/power management system?

[Outback 325BH]

Unless you have an inverter, only 12 volt items will work because you only have 12 volts.

Furnace, refrigerator, lights, water pump, water heater (if propane) should all work.


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[Harleydodge]

Unless you have an inverter, only 12 volt items will work because you only have 12 volts.

Furnace, refrigerator, lights, water pump, water heater (if propane) should all work.


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Thanks and Ya, that makes sense to me. I just figured it (my fairly high end) 5er would have been equipped that way to begin with.
I wasn't expecting the A/C or hot water or electric side of Reefer to work, but I figured there would be inverted power to the main 120v receptacles at least.

Must have been a serious oversight on my part and something that will need to be upgraded I guess.

[JRTJH]

Very few trailers have an inverter to provide 120 VAC power to outlets. Most with residential refrigerators have a "dedicated inverter" to operate that appliance, but it isn't used to operate any other items. The only RV's that I'm aware of that come "fully equipped with battery banks and inverters" are high end motorhomes that often are "fully electric" and don't even have propane onboard. Typically, they start in the "half million dollar range" and go up from there.

Essentially, the reason Fifth wheels and travel trailers don't offer inverter systems is the battery power requirement. To provide 120 VAC power take a substantial source of DC power. Typically only a single battery is supplied in most trailers unless the additional batteries are negotiated in the purchase. So, to keep prices down and to remain "competitively priced" most dealerships just "smooth right on over" discussing "inverter power, battery banks and the associated prices"......

[Harleydodge]

Very few trailers have an inverter to provide 120 VAC power to outlets. Most with residential refrigerators have a "dedicated inverter" to operate that appliance, but it isn't used to operate any other items. The only RV's that I'm aware of that come "fully equipped with battery banks and inverters" are high end motorhomes that often are "fully electric" and don't even have propane onboard. Typically, they start in the "half million dollar range" and go up from there.

Essentially, the reason Fifth wheels and travel trailers don't offer inverter systems is the battery power requirement. To provide 120 VAC power take a substantial source of DC power. Typically only a single battery is supplied in most trailers unless the additional batteries are negotiated in the purchase. So, to keep prices down and to remain "competitively priced" most dealerships just "smooth right on over" discussing "inverter power, battery banks and the associated prices"......

Thanks John.

Apparently I was oblivious once again.

We are headed out to the Nascar Race in Michigan in 2 weeks and will be "camping" (term used very lightly) without the convenience of any type of hook up.
Some may call this "boondocking", but in reality, it is camping with 100,000 other rednecks in the middle of a farmer's field.
Looks like I will be glad of having the Onan 5500 and 60 gallons of available fuel. :D

[Harleydodge]

I guess that leads to my next question then, and that is going to be:
Has anyone added and inverter to their system?
I can guess it would be a fairly big job, depending on how "neat" an install you wanted.
Meanwhile, I'm off to search in the "Mods" section :)

[JRTJH]

There are a couple of very elaborate mods about 18 months ago. Complete with automatic transfer switches, 4-6 battery systems with solar chargers to help keep the system "topped off". It's a "workable solution" to provide 120 VAC when dry camping, but if I remember correctly, prices were north of $2000 plus the "labor" so it ain't cheap..... You should find the very detailed threads with a quick search. If you can't find them, let me know.

[Harleydodge]

There are a couple of very elaborate mods about 18 months ago. Complete with automatic transfer switches, 4-6 battery systems with solar chargers to help keep the system "topped off". It's a "workable solution" to provide 120 VAC when dry camping, but if I remember correctly, prices were north of $2000 plus the "labor" so it ain't cheap..... You should find the very detailed threads with a quick search. If you can't find them, let me know.

Yes thanks.
I have seen a few posts related to what I was thinking.
It does look like a fairly daunting task for someone of my questionable electrical skills.

I can't see myself getting into a project that involved in the near future. Possibly a cheap inverter wired to the batteries and an extension cord. That's more likely to happen in my case :)

[JRTJH]

I think the three "take away's" at least for me are:

1. Locate the inverter close to the battery bank and use "very large" wiring to connect the inverter to the battery and run an extension cord to where power is wanted.
2. Using a couple of "mobile inverters" in the 100-150 watt range that plug into lighter sockets can power a TV or USB charger and cost much less than a "big permanent inverter".
3. Wiring a separate 110 VAC outlet to a "dedicated inverter" is a workable solution and a good alternative to providing power to the entire trailer AC system and only requires changing where the AC appliance or TV is plugged in.

As a "kicker" with only 2 golf cart batteries (that's what I have) don't expect to watch TV for 2 or 3 hours and perk a pot of coffee in the morning. There's just not enough "juice in that small of a battery bank" especially if you need to keep the refrigerator and water pump working.

[rjrelander]

I don't know if anyone has done this (or why it's not standard equipment on all trailers) but I was thinking about installing a couple "cigarette lighter" sockets wired (with fuses) to the 12VDC. We already have a portable 12VDC/120VAC inverter for the cab and I just need enough power to run a CPAP machine at night and maybe charge the phone with the 12VDC/USB adapter if necessary. Not sure how the pioneers ever made it across the prairies ...

EDIT: I guess that would be JRTJH's option #2 above ...

[JRTJH]

Another alternative to power a CPAP (if you can turn off the humidifier and tube heater) is a "jump starter". We have this one https://www.lowes.com/pd/Schumacher-Electric-1-200-Amp-Car-Battery-Jump-Starter/50223897 It will power the CPAP for 3 days without recharging. Plugging it in when charging the trailer batteries will make it a "always charged" item and it doesn't draw power from the trailer system so it's not taking away from the refrigerator or lights when dry camping.

We bought ours during a Black Friday sale for $69 about 4 years ago. While not a solution for everyone, it sits beside the bed, powers the CPAP and never complains :cool:

[rjrelander]

Another alternative to power a CPAP (if you can turn off the humidifier and tube heater) is a "jump starter". We have this one https://www.lowes.com/pd/Schumacher-Electric-1-200-Amp-Car-Battery-Jump-Starter/50223897

Brilliant, and it does so much more!13529EDIT: Some of the reviews make it sound like you might not want to rely on it for jump starting your vehicle over and over but it (or something like it) should be okay for what we need. I hate being tied to sites with electric hookup. It's either that or look for a generator but some places won't let you use those either.

[Harleydodge]

We have 2 guys in our "Hunting Camp" (no dedicated Electric power, generator run)
That use the CPAP machines and one guy uses one of those "jump starter" units.
The other uses a smaller car battery with an inverter.
Both system work fine (thankfully for the rest of us) and are recharged each day when the generator is running.

We have a remote cottage (on an island with no electric) and have a single deep cycle battery, 100w solar panel and 1500w inverter to run a few lights (LED) at night, so I am quite familiar with the limitations of how much available power there is.
I think I will likely eventually do something similar with the Raptor, just to have the option if wanted/needed.

[bill-e]

Most CPAP's run on either 12v or 24v. Most OEM's sell the adapter you need to plug right into the 12v house battery. I use a portable Z1 APAP which I plug into the 12v outlet by my nightstand.

As for installing an inverter, I plan on doing that. It's really not too difficult.

Install there inverter in your front pass through or storage compartment using as large and short of a cable as you can hooking it directly to your battery through a fuse.

I have two outlets on my kitchen island, I intend to cut the connector between top and bottom on each outlet so that I can have two circuits, the top receptacle standard 120v and the bottom receptacle 120v inverter. I will run a cable from my inverter through the underbelly and up through the floor where the existing cables are going to the center island and connect the outlets.

I have a 200w portable solar panel which can easily top up my two T105 golf cart batteries.

I plan on installing either a 1k or 2k watt inverter with the 2k just to future proof the installation in the case I ever add 2 more batteries.

When I dry camp my biggest need is for my Keurig in the morning (yea, I know I wouldn't have to do any of this if I just perked coffee on the stove)

I found and purchased a 700w Keurig machine which does run easily on a 1kw inverter.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004978NKY/ref=twister_B01N2XRPS5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

[Harleydodge]

...I found and purchased a 750w Keurig machine which does run easily...

Thanks, that made me go look at the one we use. It's 950w, so I would need to go with at least a 1500 if I do indeed go ahead with it in the future.