Belly Pan Loose

[Ddubya]

I was checking the underside of our Alpine 3401 recently and discovered that the belly pan is loose on the driver side under the storage area. It is secured by power driven nails and washers into the steel frame and the Coroplast material has pulled out from under the washers for about 18 inches.
The reason it pulled out appears to be that it is not supported at all between the sides of the frame and the weight has caused it to pull loose.
I plan on screwing a 1X2 hollow steel piece to each side of the frame to hold the Coroplast up.
Question is; Has anyone tried to remove the power driven nails from the frame?

[chuckster57]

I have been able to get a prybar (slotted) between the frame and washer. If the nails are pulled out, it's easier to just use a self tapping screw and washer. Go right back into the nail hole. Been there done that on several units.

[Bob Landry]

The "power driven nails" are self tapping screws with a 3/8" hex head. They come out easily with a socket or a nut driver.

[Ddubya]

These are not self tapping screws. I was able to get them out.

[gearhead]

They used nails and not screws?? I thought Alpine was the "top of the line"? LOL
My lowly Montana HC has screws. I wanted to pull the chloroplast down to look at something, tried to unscrew them. Some unscrewed and some just twisted off. I got stainless steel self drilling, self tapping screws same size from Fastenal to replace them. I also got some lightweight angle steel, maybe 1.250" x 1.250" with lots of holes and slots. Cut that to fit crossways outside the frame to outside the frame. Used the new screws to attach. Had to push on them a bit but they screwed into the frame OK. I put 2 across the front and 1 across the back. Also added more new screws knowing the OEM would likely rust off. I think I used the cordless DeWalt .250" driver. It's holding that cheap junk chloroplast up pretty good.

[Bob Landry]

Keystone's purchasers must have found cheaper fasteners.

[gearhead]

Yep saved $11.02 on each and every top of the line Alpine.
May they rot.....

[Ddubya]

The problem I have is that the Coroplast is just barley wide enough to span the inside lip of the frame. Any sagging of the Coroplast causes the material to pull out from underneath the nail/washer. There was no support near the front 8 to 10 feet other than the outside edges and the weight of the insulation, wiring and plumbing causes the sagging. I have the cross members cut and drilled and will be painting them and mounting them to the outside lip of the frame with 1/4 20 stainless bolts with locking nuts.
It is common practice to use nails instead of self tapping screws in all kinds of construction. My son in law's company uses the nails when attaching Hardy Plank to steel. Much faster. Better??????? But time is money.

[sourdough]

It would probably serve all Keystone owners well to just look at the underside of their trailer to see how the coroplast is attached, especially at the front. Mine had a gap at the front and I wasn't aware of it. I hit a torrential downpour N of Alexandria LA one day and found at the next gas stop that the front of the coroplast was hanging down and running a river of water out of it. The coroplast was not sealed against the frame as it should have been. It was under warranty and Keystone approved pulling the front of the coroplast down to check for damages then putting the coroplast back up with supports and a flashing across the front to prevent any recurrence.

[Dave W]

I believe that 2015 was a change over to the 'rivets' by Keystone as our 2014 has the self drill screws. The self drill screws are relatively expensive to buy then high buck manpower to install vs whanging in that rivet. As far as coroplast fitting well - not our HC as the front piece had a gap and 2" hump in the middle that's now sealed with expanding foam then pained black. It's also supported by a couple factory installed steel bars as is the long main section.

[Tom N OH]

Our 2015 HC 305RL (Built 4/2015) still has the self drilling screws.

[Alpine]

Our Alpine 2012 has the self-tapping hex head screws. Sad but true, we have seen a lot of cost cutting measures to the newer Alpine line.

[Ddubya]

For those that are interested, here is a photo of the pin that is now used to hold the belly material in place.

[JRTJH]

Thanks for the picture, ddubya. From the looks of that, I don't see how it would be cheaper than a screw and a flat washer. Faster to install? Probably, and maybe that's where the savings comes from. But, the way I see it, that "device" can't cost less than a self tapping screw and a pan washer.

[Outback 325BH]

Labor cost to install is much cheaper. Not only is hitting the trigger faster, but that design comes complete... no assembling a washer to a screw.

Other than after-the-fact maintenance being a pain, it doesn't seem like a bad idea. Mine have the rivets.

I have been wanting to pull down my coroplast for several reasons, however I want to plan it out first.

What does one use in place of the rivets once they are removed and you are ready to reinstall the coroplast?

To add... I would bet money those rivets come in a strip or in some clip or magazine that allows the user to run with it.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Ddubya]

Replacing the nails with self tapping screws is no problem. You should be able to remove them with a nail bar.
Here are a couple of photos of my repair. I placed two 1x2 steel boxed pieces about four feet apart and used self tapping screws to secure the Coroplast where it had pulled free of the nails/washers.