electric storm

[gazapo]

Had a storm go through when not at the trailer. Go to the trailer on the weekend to find the A/C, furnace running simultaneously. Thermostat display is blank so I think replacing the thermostat will fix the problem. Replace thermostat to get an E1 displayed after 5 minutes second thermostat goes dead. Have 12 volts at the thermostat. At a loss, any suggestions?

Thanks

[Johnny's Journey]

Have 12 volts at the thermostat.Can you be more specific. Is that in coming voltage only your referring to ? Have you disconnected the out going 12v signal to the ac unit and heater to see if the thermostat is operating as it should be with a test lamp or multimeter ?

[chuckster57]

E1 is loss of communication:

http://www.keystoneforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29193&highlight=Thermostat

With the storm that passed by its possible your control board took a hit. It's in the A/C return duct.

[Dave W]

A-h-h-h-h the real reason for a surge protection device - thunderstorms

[chuckster57]

Lots of reasons for EMS, thunderstorms is just one item on the list. I was lucky for many years but now have a hard wired with remote display.

[Outback 325BH]

A-h-h-h-h the real reason for a surge protection device - thunderstorms



Although a great reason for one, I would put shade-tree campground-electricians at the top of my list.


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[gazapo]

Can you be more specific. Is that in coming voltage only your referring to ? Have you disconnected the out going 12v signal to the ac unit and heater to see if the thermostat is operating as it should be with a test lamp or multimeter ?

Measured 12 volts at both red/blue and 12 volts orange/blue. Does that help?

[Dave W]

Although a great reason for one, I would put shade-tree campground-electricians at the top of my list.


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That's a good second reason for a surge protector as it will protect you from those idiots too - as well as high and low voltage line service problems.

[Outback 325BH]

That's a good second reason for a surge protector as it will protect you from those idiots too - as well as high and low voltage line service problems.



Yeah. Low-voltage is what I have encountered the most.


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[bobbecky]

Getting back to the original question, it would help to know what the rig is, year and model, what model thermostat, and also what air conditioner too. We had an experience several years ago after a storm went through where we lost the operation of one of our air conditioners that was running at the time. In this case, the thermostat had a display, but could not communicate with the unit. It turned out to be severe corrosion on the circuit board in the control box below the air conditioner in the return duct. Replaced the box with the circuit board and everything was back to normal.

[gazapo]

Getting back to the original question, it would help to know what the rig is, year and model, what model thermostat, and also what air conditioner too. We had an experience several years ago after a storm went through where we lost the operation of one of our air conditioners that was running at the time. In this case, the thermostat had a display, but could not communicate with the unit. It turned out to be severe corrosion on the circuit board in the control box below the air conditioner in the return duct. Replaced the box with the circuit board and everything was back to normal.
Trailer is a 2011 keystone passport ultra lite ltd edition. Thermostat is a single zone dometic. AC is a dometic as well.

[Johnny's Journey]

Measured 12 volts at both red/blue and 12 volts orange/blue. Does that help?The other members are touching on something of more concern. That being a possible power surge that took out your board. What I asked will only verify if thermostat is functioning as it should be and you'd need to know how to understand this...... https://www.google.com/search?q=Dometic+RV+Air+Conditioner+Single+Zone+LC D+Thermostat+wiring&rlz=1C1CAFB_enUS628US628&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwieko6Nl5TVAhVqy1QKHUJdC6sQ_AUICCgD&biw=1280&bih=670#imgrc=FZROoYj-5WM3qM:

[gazapo]

Now electric component of hot water tank isn't working. Possibly because of ac? Recently replaced relay and element.

[gazapo]

Thanks a bunch, it was the board. Now if I could only get the hot water tank(electric component) working.

[JRTJH]

The only components in the electrical side of the water heater is a switch (inside the RV or on the lower left front corner of the outside compartment) a bit of ROMEX, a circuit breaker, a thermostat/high temp limit switch and the element itself. I'd start with the circuit breaker, make sure you have power there, then verify power at the water heater connections (in the outlet box behind the water heater). If you have power there and pressing the reset switch on the water heater (behind the black rubber plug) doesn't get it working, then disconnect the element (REMOVE POWER BEFORE TOUCHING ANYTHING !!!) and measure the resistance. It should read 14.5 - 17 Ohms. If it reads anything greater than that, replace the heating element. Remove it, go to Lowe's or HD and you can find a replacement for about $15. DO NOT BUY A 220 VAC REPLACEMENT, THE ELEMENT IS 115VAC).

That should get you working. If not, then you'll need to let us know and we can give you other suggestions.

It sounds like your trailer was either "struck by lightening" or suffered a power surge/brownout that caused multiple problems. You may find that more "stuff" is busted as you proceed.

[bobbecky]

One more part that could fail, at least on some rigs, is the 12 volt DC to 120 volt AC relay at the water heater, that is controlled by a 12 volt switch inside the coach, that activates the 120 volt circuit to the thermostat and then to the element. The little black switch at the lower left corner on the outside of the water heater is also a common fail point.

[gazapo]

Thanks for the advice. Power at breaker ok, power at water heater ok, measured element 10.8 ohms. No power after relay. Switch? How can I check it?

[bobbecky]

If you are saying you have power to the relay but not after it, you probably have a bad relay. On ours, the 12 volt to 120 volt relay is inside a metal box that on our rig is only accessible by pulling out the water heater maybe 6 inches. The black switch only has the hot leg in and out of it, and is after the relay, but can be checked, with power off, by just prying the switch out and the connectors are spade type to the switch terminals. I am familiar with all this because I replaced our water heater last year due to a cracked tank. The Romex from the breaker terminates inside the relay box and is controlled by the 12 volt switch inside our trailer. I think there are trailers wired without a relay, and you have only the breaker and the little black switch on the outside. Those units will not have a relay. All this is about the Suburban water heaters.

[gazapo]

If you are saying you have power to the relay but not after it, you probably have a bad relay. On ours, the 12 volt to 120 volt relay is inside a metal box that on our rig is only accessible by pulling out the water heater maybe 6 inches. The black switch only has the hot leg in and out of it, and is after the relay, but can be checked, with power off, by just prying the switch out and the connectors are spade type to the switch terminals. I am familiar with all this because I replaced our water heater last year due to a cracked tank. The Romex from the breaker terminates inside the relay box and is controlled by the 12 volt switch inside our trailer. I think there are trailers wired without a relay, and you have only the breaker and the little black switch on the outside. Those units will not have a relay. All this is about the Suburban water heaters.
Still fighting with this water heater. Measuring nothing on yellow wire to relay at relay. When I unplug 6 wire plug at control board, I measure 12 volts at yellow terminal. When I plug 6 wire plug back in measure 0 at yellow wire. Wire has good continuity . I'm lost, any ideas?