What hitch?

[BlackNoir]

We're getting a 2017 Keystone Cougar Xlite 28RDB Fifth Wheel and I have no clue what I should get for the hitch. The truck has a long box so I don't think I need a Slider?

Thanks,
Shay

[chuckster57]

You don't need a slider that's for sure. Your going to get lots of different brands mentioned, I will only say this: make sure you get a hitch rated for your trailer. My current hitch is rated for 14K and my current fiver is 10240 GVWR.
You will probably hear someone recommend the Anderson Ultimate hitch. It is a goose neck style, and if your frame is made by Lippert, Lippert won't honor any frame related warranty work. Anderson offers their own "guarantee" but I haven't seen any documentation of a case involving Lippert frame damage using the Anderson hitch.

I'm not against the Anderson, just want to make sure your aware of Lippert's position.

[bsmith0404]

Yes, make sure its rated for the weight of your 5er, but overboard isn't a bad thing. I would recommend one rated a bit over your truck max. I started out with a 16k hitch and a 9k lb 5er. Upgraded to a 13k lb 5er, still good. Upgraded to a 15k lb 5er, to close for comfort for me. I also upgraded to a 3500 dually. Decided to get a 20k hitch, if I ever decide to get a heavier trailer (I don't see that coming), I'm still good. I like the Reese Elite with the single jaw. There are several great hitches, B&W, Curt, and Reese are your most popular brands. Weight for removal is also a consideration. Mine is fairly heavy, but by pulling 2 pins I can separate the head from the legs which make it a very manageable removal. I can pull it and install it in less than 5 mins each.

Also, get a set of these...https://www.etrailer.com/Hitch-Locks/Reese/RP58093.html, you will know that your hitch will always be there and secured.

[gkainz]

You don't need a slider that's for sure. Your going to get lots of different brands mentioned, I will only say this: make sure you get a hitch rated for your trailer. My current hitch is rated for 14K and my current fiver is 10240 GVWR.
You will probably hear someone recommend the Anderson Ultimate hitch. It is a goose neck style, and if your frame is made by Lippert, Lippert won't honor any frame related warranty work. Anderson offers their own "guarantee" but I haven't seen any documentation of a case involving Lippert frame damage using the Anderson hitch.

I'm not against the Anderson, just want to make sure your aware of Lippert's position.

Sorry, Chuckster57, but this is just not correct. The Andersen "attaches" to a gooseneck ball, but is NOT a "gooseneck style" hitch. The gooseneck adapters that Lippert and other frame manufacturers warn against and do void warranties on are true gooseneck adapters, that extend the king pin of the standard 5th wheel box down to the gooseneck ball, and thereby multiply the torque against the 5er frame. That can and does cause frame damage in some cases.

Andersen raises a ball to an adapter block mounted ON the king pin, and does not add any additional torque to the 5er pin box and frame.

However, to the OPs request, if he doesn't already have a gooseneck ball hitch (which he didn't mention), then the Andersen gives him no advantages and I wouldn't recommend it to him.

Greg

[NorskeBob]

I have used Husky 16K hitches since 2003 - never any problems with them. It came with the purchase of the fifth wheel. I replaced the hitch this year - liked the newer re-design of the hitch. The new hitch has been an improvement.

[chuckster57]

Not here to argue, but I have the letter from LCI that states the Anderson IS a goose neck STYLE and therefore not covered under LIPPERT'S frame warranty, the Reese GOOSE BOX is the only goose neck STYLE that they will cover.

Goose neck STYLE involves a BALL and SOCKET no matter how it's configured. To each their own.

[Desert185]

Its my understanding that Lippert has approved the Andersen Ultimate hitch (24K and 4500# pin weight).

A ball and socket does not make it a gooseneck hitch, because there is no neck. The neck on a true gooseneck hitch is what puts the strain on the fifth wheel trailer adapted with a gooseneck hitch.

www.andersenhitches.com

Call Lippert and Andersen for the latest info.

[fireman1317]

Not here to argue, but I have the letter from LCI that states the Anderson IS a goose neck STYLE and therefore not covered under LIPPERT'S frame warranty, the Reese GOOSE BOX is the only goose neck STYLE that they will cover.



Goose neck STYLE involves a BALL and SOCKET no matter how it's configured. To each their own.



Of course for arguments sake, Lippert used to be big fans of the Andersen hitch until Lippert bought Reese. At that point they changed their stance and decided to push their own product. No conflict of interest or anything.[emoji849]


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[mtofell]

Love my B/W hitch. I know there are a lot of other quality ones out there as well. The main thing I'd tell you is you get what you pay for. I had a cheap Reese once and it was a nightmare. I literally had to carry a rubber mallet with me at all times to pound the latch pin into place. The B/W moves like Butter.

[Don N.]

I have had the "standard" 5th wheel hitch configuration; the hitch was heavy, awkward to install and remove, clunky sounding, and the rails were always in the way in the truck bed. I'm a first time user of the B/W and Anderson Ultimate goose neck system and I like it very much. I recently installed the "ball funnel" on the receiver block attached to the king pin and it makes trailer hookup a breeze. (An upgraded goose neck ball also came with the funnel from Anderson). I would strongly recommend the B/W and Anderson hitch system. I have never heard about the Lippert guarantee thing with Anderson. I suggest calling Anderson and ask them.

[cardinal96ss]

Love the B&W setup. Easy to use and solid.

[fatcatzzz]

For peace of mind, put me down for the B&W.

[Bolo4u]

I have a B&W hitch in my truck (for the Ram built-in puck system) it has been awesome! The only issue I have, is the little piston attached to the head plate, (to dampen side-to-side/rocking movement?) has a leak at the top seal. I haven't noticed that it has caused any issues, but I'm calling them Monday to see if I can get a replacement.

I'd like to see B&W come out with an aluminum "lightweight" base to help make it easier to install/remove. Demco has come out with a 21k lightweight hitch.

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[Desert185]

I have a B&W hitch in my truck (for the Ram built-in puck system) it has been awesome! The only issue I have, is the little piston attached to the head plate, (to dampen side-to-side/rocking movement?) has a leak at the top seal. I haven't noticed that it has caused any issues, but I'm calling them Monday to see if I can get a replacement.

I'd like to see B&W come out with an aluminum "lightweight" base to help make it easier to install/remove. Demco has come out with a 21k lightweight hitch.

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Want lightweight, no leaks, minimal moving parts? Gooseneck ball or rail attachment. 24,000# capability.

www.andersenhitches.com

[Bolo4u]

Want lightweight, no leaks, minimal moving parts? Gooseneck ball or rail attachment. 24,000# capability.



www.andersenhitches.com


Thanks, but I don't have any desire to convert my pin box into something it's not. I'm very happy with what I have and use, but an aluminum base option would be the "à la mode" to a still-warm slice of fresh peach pie.


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[Frank G]

Lots to consider, Has the bed any considerations for mounting the hitch? Are you going to install industry standard rails? At that point any old hitch will work. Yes they all work. I use a Curt E-16 and it works just fine. The used market is full of hitches. All depends what you want. Some hitches clamp the pin tighter than others. (Less chucking noise) This is not always dependent on the hitch. When I was pulling with the F250 we had lots of chucking noise. When we switched the hitch to the Ram it all disappeared. Who knows.

In my decision making process I would put more consideration on how many miles I intend to use it in the next 5 years. Second would be, do I want (need) a clear bed for other things. If I do then I would install a removable goose ball and get the Reese Goose box. Simple.

[Desert185]

Lots to consider, Has the bed any considerations for mounting the hitch? Are you going to install industry standard rails? At that point any old hitch will work. Yes they all work. I use a Curt E-16 and it works just fine. The used market is full of hitches. All depends what you want. Some hitches clamp the pin tighter than others. (Less chucking noise) This is not always dependent on the hitch. When I was pulling with the F250 we had lots of chucking noise. When we switched the hitch to the Ram it all disappeared. Who knows.

In my decision making process I would put more consideration on how many miles I intend to use it in the next 5 years. Second would be, do I want (need) a clear bed for other things. If I do then I would install a removable goose ball and get the Reese Goose box. Simple.

I Googled Reese Goose Box and found:

Goose Box, $900-$1000
Andersen, $500.

One man's simple is another's pie ala mode (whatever that means). :lol:

I'm going back to my cave.

[Bolo4u]

I Googled Reese Goose Box and found:



Goose Box, $900-$1000

Andersen, $500.



One man's simple is another's pie ala mode (whatever that means). :lol:



I'm going back to my cave.


Sorry to offend your simplicity. You do what works best for you, by "modifying" your hitch. I'm still in my warranty period and find the standard pin box just fine for my needs, and I don't have to worry about re tightening the part that attaches to the pin.

The pie a la mode reference was just relating to; if BW made an aluminum base (lighter) it would be a nice option. Our is great alone, add ice cream, it's even better.


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[Frank G]

I Googled Reese Goose Box and found:

Goose Box, $900-$1000
Andersen, $500.

One man's simple is another's pie ala mode (whatever that means). :lol:

I'm going back to my cave.

Price is only one factor. You still have to use wrenches to remove the Anderson thing from the truck, don't you? Are torque wrenches required for reinstallation? If you are at Home Depot and you need your truck to be a truck how do you get this Anderson thingy out and where do you put it. Just saying.

Having been through this hitch thing for 50 years, I would much rather have a clean bed with removable Ball and a corresponding coupler on the trailer. Sometimes even bed rails get in the way. At this point in my life I have bed rails a sliding hitch and it never leaves the truck, it is simply a tow vehicle. I am trying to give the OP ideas to think about.

[Desert185]

Price is only one factor. You still have to use wrenches to remove the Anderson thing from the truck, don't you? Are torque wrenches required for reinstallation? If you are at Home Depot and you need your truck to be a truck how do you get this Anderson thingy out and where do you put it. Just saying.

Having been through this hitch thing for 50 years, I would much rather have a clean bed with removable Ball and a corresponding coupler on the trailer. Sometimes even bed rails get in the way. At this point in my life I have bed rails a sliding hitch and it never leaves the truck, it is simply a tow vehicle. I am trying to give the OP ideas to think about.

The hitch comes out in two minutes by loosening three bolts that aren't removed. I have a BW turnover ball. No rails. There is a railed version if one does not have a turnover ball in the bed.

If going to Lowes, the steel 75# version of the hitch has already been removed, as it comes out as soon as I get home. If on the road, I can put the hitch in the toy hauler's garage. The aluminum version weighs 35#. Both are 24,000# hitches.

When installing, the main bolt is tightened to 50# and the other two are 40#...with a torque wrench like I use for the trailer's lug bolts. The coupler only needs to be checked once a year. It also is 40# with a 1/4" allen socket.

I find this entire process pretty simple, particularly when removing the hitch to convert the pickup back into a pickup from being a tow vehicle.

There is no warrantee issue. Andersen Hitches has a backup $5 million policy to cover any problems that might occur. After over 10,000 hitches sold, not one has ever created a problem with the trailer or failed. Read the policy on their website.

Less money, less weight, easily removed, no moving parts, no leaks, no clunking, no failures, more simple.

Watch the videos on www.andersenhitches.com.

If no one else buys it, no offense, just trying to point out facts, fallacies and any misunderstandings.

FWIW...YMMV...works for me.

[jsmith948]

To the OP: As you can see, there are many varied opinions as to which hitch is best. Having a long bed truck, you don't have the need for a slider. As stated above - make sure you buy a hitch rated for more than your trailer weighs - just for an added margin. FWIW, we use a 16K Reese sliding hitch. Works great - although it can be a little noisy when negotiating speed humps (gotta luv'em) because of the slack between the rollers and the slider tubes. Lots of folks like the Andersen because of its light weight. However, be advised, you will need safety chains with a 'ball type' hitch. Our hitch and slider weigh about 165# - not sure what it would weigh without the slider - probably quite a bit less. As far as the in bed industry standard rails are concerned, we have never had a problem loading sheet goods or lumber. In fact, the bed rails have been handy tie-down points on several occasions. Good luck with your choice.:)

[Frank G]

Wish I could take psychology 101 over again, so much to learn about "drinking the Kool-Aid".

[JRTJH]

All three of the truck manufacturers have an option available that it seems all the "buy this brand" have omitted. The "factory puck" option gives an alternative to the clean bed/rails in the bed issue. So there's yet another "option" that hasn't yet been offered to this "highly controversial/opinionated" question. That said:

What hitch? It's been candidly illustrated here that question "lives in the same realm" of What truck? What tire? What qualities are best in a spouse? What school should you encourage your children to attend? or the host of other "OPINIONS AND PREFERENCES" we all have.

What hitch to buy has to remain a "pro/con" question for each of us to ask/answer based on much information that the rest of us simply don't have available. Heck, I'm a "Ford guy" but if the nearest Ford dealership was 100miles away and I lived next door to the GM/Chevy dealership and there was a RAM dealer across the street???? No matter how good any of the trucks might be, that's information none of the "advisors" on the forum would have included in their suggestions on what truck to buy. The point I'm making is that none of us are privy to all the factors that are important to someone 1,000 miles away and none of us are "inside their head" when we're giving advice on such a topic as "which XXX is best for me?"......

It's the same with hitches.... Probably the best answer would be, Buy the one you like, feel comfortable with, can get serviced, know something about, costs in your price range, is large enough for the trailer you have, and so much more that is on "YOUR" specific "pro/con" list.

Let's don't lose sight of the realization that "what's best for us might not even be a consideration for someone else." I suppose we all need to take a step back and not get "insulted or upset" because someone else sees the question through a different set of eyes.......

[notanlines]

I realize the three or four of you are kind of having a "back and forth" (and fairly politely I might add) but I did want all of you to know that I'm kind of having a learning moment here. We are in the process of selling our Raptor and headed to a slightly heavier RV and I'm not sure if I want to give up our 20K Reese Slider for a different system. Let the games continue....

[Desert185]

To the OP: As you can see, there are many varied opinions as to which hitch is best. Having a long bed truck, you don't have the need for a slider. As stated above - make sure you buy a hitch rated for more than your trailer weighs - just for an added margin. FWIW, we use a 16K Reese sliding hitch. Works great - although it can be a little noisy when negotiating speed humps (gotta luv'em) because of the slack between the rollers and the slider tubes. Lots of folks like the Andersen because of its light weight. However, be advised, you will need safety chains with a 'ball type' hitch. Our hitch and slider weigh about 165# - not sure what it would weigh without the slider - probably quite a bit less. As far as the in bed industry standard rails are concerned, we have never had a problem loading sheet goods or lumber. In fact, the bed rails have been handy tie-down points on several occasions. Good luck with your choice.:)

It depends on the state (or local LEO opinion) as to whether chains are required for the Andersen hitch. I don't use chains.

[Outback 325BH]

So... what is the deal with this Andersen hitch? Why not just use a 5th wheel hitch? Is there some benefit, or is it some jury-rig to avoid buying a proper 5th wheel hitch?


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[chuckster57]

So... what is the deal with this Andersen hitch? Why not just use a 5th wheel hitch? Is there some benefit, or is it some jury-rig to avoid buying a proper 5th wheel hitch?


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I think the biggest draw is the weight and ease that you can remove it from your bed. I have had traditional non sliders in my TV's since '89. Its what I grew up with and it works so I am staying with it. I have seen customers pull in with the Anderson, and yeah just like the ones with a capture plate, we have to remove some things to move them around with a forklift.

[captcolour]

I have a new 2017 F-350 with the Ford factory puck system and the Ford supplied hitch which is a Reese RE25. I use a chain hoist to remove the hitch so no issue for me with weight. The factory puck is nice as the bed is clear once the hitch is lifted out.

First pic is before bed liner. Second pic is hitch out after bed liner installed.

My hoist chain is in the bucket hanging above the truck in the second pic.

[Frank G]

I have a new 2017 F-350 with the Ford factory puck system and the Ford supplied hitch which is a Reese RE25. I use a chain hoist to remove the hitch so no issue for me with weight. The factory puck is nice as the bed is clear once the hitch is lifted out.

First pic is before bed liner. Second pic is hitch out after bed liner installed.

My hoist chain is in the bucket hanging above the truck in the second pic.

That is a nice setup, if only there was a SAE puck standard. The OP never qualified his/her vehicle or wishes. That led to a lot of confusion.

[John&Genny]

It depends on the state (or local LEO opinion) as to whether chains are required for the Andersen hitch. I don't use chains.

I also have the Andersen hitch, but when it comes to a possible safety advantage in using a option such as the chains, then I'll take that option :) The chain kit was only $65 and was fairly easy to install if you have a torque wrench.

[Javi]

I have a new 2017 F-350 with the Ford factory puck system and the Ford supplied hitch which is a Reese RE25. I use a chain hoist to remove the hitch so no issue for me with weight. The factory puck is nice as the bed is clear once the hitch is lifted out.

First pic is before bed liner. Second pic is hitch out after bed liner installed.

My hoist chain is in the bucket hanging above the truck in the second pic.

I have the same hitch, I just remove it in two pieces... by hand..

[Desert185]

I have the same hitch, I just remove it in two pieces... by hand..

I have my 10 year old granddaughter do mine. Its "jury rigged," so its pretty lightweight. :lol:

[kfxgreenie]

So... what is the deal with this Andersen hitch? Why not just use a 5th wheel hitch? Is there some benefit, or is it some jury-rig to avoid buying a proper 5th wheel hitch?


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Lets see, weight savings against SRW payloads, positive engagement of the pin without doing a pull test or dropping the 5er on your bed rails. Less moving parts, chucking. Simplicity, KISS method works well here. Isn't any jury-rig going on.

I will say a Reese goose box would be even better yet, but it would be much harder to hook up. With the Andersen I can look out the rear window and watch the coupler and ball line up.

[Outback 325BH]

Lets see, weight savings against SRW payloads, positive engagement of the pin without doing a pull test or dropping the 5er on your bed rails. Less moving parts, chucking. Simplicity, KISS method works well here. Isn't any jury-rig going on.



I will say a Reese goose box would be even better yet, but it would be much harder to hook up. With the Andersen I can look out the rear window and watch the coupler and ball line up.



Hmmm... I'll stick with balls for goose-necks and 5th wheel hitches for 5th wheels. The whole thing seems kind of hinky to me.

I currently own a TT, but have towed 5th wheel campers before. Hitching up a 5th wheel is pretty easy. Not sure of the problems you are describing.

Is this meant to be a work-around for no 5th wheel provision?

Seems to me, if you have a 5th wheel provision in your truck you would want to use an actual 5th wheel hitch.


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[Desert185]

Videos here and on Youtube that describe the concept:

www.andersenhitches.com

[Barbell]

Having had only three hitches, my experience is limited but I can say for sure that if I ever have to replace the current hitch (Curt 20K made for Ram puck system), it will be the Curt and definately not either of the two Reese hitches I have suffered thru. First Reese failed due to improper welds. Both Reeses were difficult to hook up and had severe chucking problems. No such problem with the Curt.

[JRTJH]

Having had only three hitches, my experience is limited but I can say for sure that if I ever have to replace the current hitch (Curt 20K made for Ram puck system), it will be the Curt and definately not either of the two Reese hitches I have suffered thru. First Reese failed due to improper welds. Both Reeses were difficult to hook up and had severe chucking problems. No such problem with the Curt.

I'm also very happy with my Curt hitch . It's a 16k that we bought for our F150 and used it with bed rails to tow our Springdale. When we bought the F250 it had the Ford "puck system" so I bought a Reese adapter to convert the pucks to fit that hitch (at that time, Curt didn't have legs for any puck systems). Once we bought the new F250 (also with the puck system) I "bit the bullet" and bought the Curt "puck legs" to convert the hitch head to fit the Ford pucks. Like you, I've never had a problem with the Curt hitch. It's reliable, easy to hitch, unhitch and is as quiet as any hitch I've seen. Essentially, mine is, after the two interim conversions, a 16K version of your 20K hitch. I don't see any reason to look for a replacement hitch and if I ever did, I'd buy another Curt.

[John&Genny]

Hmmm... I'll stick with balls for goose-necks and 5th wheel hitches for 5th wheels. The whole thing seems kind of hinky to me.

I currently own a TT, but have towed 5th wheel campers before. Hitching up a 5th wheel is pretty easy. Not sure of the problems you are describing.

Is this meant to be a work-around for no 5th wheel provision?

Seems to me, if you have a 5th wheel provision in your truck you would want to use an actual 5th wheel hitch.


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I think in most cases, if you have never used or rode in a rig with a Andersen hitch, you will never know it's advantages. So as they say, don't knock it unless you've tried it :)

[Javi]

I think in most cases, if you have never used or rode in a rig with a Andersen hitch, you will never know it's advantages. So as they say, don't knock it unless you've tried it :)

I'll pass... I ain't gonna own no aluminum pickup or hitch... y'all go ahead without me...

Aluminum has a valid use for many things like antennas, beer cans and boats; but pickup beds and 5th wheel hitches ain't among 'em. And if I got to worry about the weight of my hitch I need a bigger truck....:whistling:

[John&Genny]

I'll pass... I ain't gonna own no aluminum pickup or hitch... y'all go ahead without me...

Aluminum has a valid use for many things like antennas, beer cans and boats; but pickup beds and 5th wheel hitches ain't among 'em. And if I got to worry about the weight of my hitch I need a bigger truck....:whistling:

Actually Andersen uses aircraft grade alluminum, so if you don't trust it, perhaps you should refrain from flying in the future :)

And weight wasn't the advantage I was speaking of, but I digress. Each to thier own.

[Outback 325BH]

Actually Andersen uses aircraft grade alluminum, so if you don't trust it, perhaps you should refrain from flying in the future :)



And weight wasn't the advantage I was speaking of, but I digress. Each to thier own.



Nice try.

Forgive us if we don't buy in to the comparison with aviation standards and testing for passenger aircraft vs a trailer hitch.

Using your logic, Lippert frames and skyscrapers are built with the same QC!


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[John&Genny]

Nice try, but you are saying that Curt, Reese, and others have a higher construction standard than Andersen? I don't buy that either.

[Desert185]

I'll pass... I ain't gonna own no aluminum pickup or hitch... y'all go ahead without me...

Aluminum has a valid use for many things like antennas, beer cans and boats; but pickup beds and 5th wheel hitches ain't among 'em. And if I got to worry about the weight of my hitch I need a bigger truck....:whistling:

They do make a steel, railed version, BTW, if you are aluminum averse. Both are 24,000# tow and 4500# pin weight rated.

[Outback 325BH]

Nice try, but you are saying that Curt, Reese, and others have a higher construction standard than Andersen? I don't buy that either.



I never said that nor did I imply it... however you point blank drew a comparison with aviation and your beloved Andersen.

However... when taking the lighter-softer metal approach, more engineering is required than a brute-force solution like steel. Plus, 5th wheel designs have been well established for ages.

Your goose-neck jury-rig is a bit different. All I am saying is, I will pass on it.

Not sure why you are so sensitive about it...


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[gkainz]

I never said that nor did I imply it... however you point blank drew a comparison with aviation and your beloved Andersen.

However... when taking the lighter-softer metal approach, more engineering is required than a brute-force solution like steel. Plus, 5th wheel designs have been well established for ages.

Your goose-neck jury-rig is a bit different. All I am saying is, I will pass on it.

Not sure why you are so sensitive about it...


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I've refrained from jumping in on this. I have an Andersen for the last 3 years, after having a traditional 5th wheel hitch for many years. I like it, it works for me, it has advantages that I want over traditional 5th wheel hitches. I don't push them, advocate for them, nor do I get a commission on selling them. I simply like mine. If you don't like it, don't buy one!

However, for you to call it a "goose-neck jury-rig" in a passive aggressive manner and then poke fun at someone who defends their choice by claiming they are being "so sensitive" then you're behaving like an internet troll, in my opinion.

If you don't like Andersen's design, don't buy one. If you haven't tried one, perhaps you could simply present why you like what you have, and let others do the same.

Your comments are argument provoking and then you slide back with "why are you being so sensitive" ... not helpful in the least, in my opinion.

Greg

[Desert185]

I've refrained from jumping in on this. I have an Andersen for the last 3 years, after having a traditional 5th wheel hitch for many years. I like it, it works for me, it has advantages that I want over traditional 5th wheel hitches. I don't push them, advocate for them, nor do I get a commission on selling them. I simply like mine. If you don't like it, don't buy one!

However, for you to call it a "goose-kneck jury-rig" in a passive aggressive manner and then poke fun at someone who defends their choice by claiming they are being "so sensitive" then you're behaving like an internet troll, in my opinion.

If you don't like Andersen's design, don't buy one. If you haven't tried one, perhaps you could simply present why you like what you have, and let others do the same.

Your comments are argument provoking and then you slide back with "why are you being so sensitive" ... not helpful in the least, in my opinion.

Greg

:thumbsup:

[John&Genny]

Found a really good comparison video of the Andersen vs. B&W Companion 5th wheel hitches:

https://youtu.be/m7hezEK_i2E

Although the reviewer does mention weight as one of it's main advantages, if you watch the video you will easily see the other advantages of the Andersen hitch. As others have mentioned, each of us has our own desires and wants in a hitch, but it's best to be informed.

[Javi]

Aluminum is typically not as strong as steel, but it is also almost one third of the weight. This is the main reason why aircraft are made from Aluminum.

Most tempers and alloys of aluminum dent, ding or scratch more easily as compared to steel. Steel is strong and less likely to warp, deform or bend under weight, force or heat.

I make my living designing things using both metals and the primary reason to choose Aluminum over steel is weight... And Like I said if I'm that worried about 50 to 100 pounds of weight differential... I need a bigger truck...

Can an aluminum hitch work... of course it can... Does anyone really need one... That's the question you got to ask...

[Outback 325BH]

The issues I have with the Andersen are:
Aluminum. I think we have covered that topic well.
Stress on the pin. On a 5th wheel hitch, the plate carries the pin weight. The pin mostly only carries forward/rearward/sideways forces. In the Andersen setup, that configuration is trying to bend the pin off. Lots of different forces going on there.
The weight distribution is rearward.
The stress on the TV's gooseneck ball release mechanism. The locking/release mechanism of a gooseneck ball does take some stress and hold the ball in place (when the tongue bounces up), however most of the time it receives downward force not upward... which is carried by the socket not the detent ball. The Andersen setup tries to pull the gooseneck ball out of its socket all of the time. Pulling up on that ball is what provides the downward force on the entire hitch base. I'm not sure the gooseneck ball was designed with that use/purpose in mind. The detent ball is taking a ton of stress where it normally has none.

Call me names all you want, but the whole thing is still a big jury-rig in my eyes. Not trying to upset anyone, just stating my opinion.


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[Desert185]

Aluminum is typically not as strong as steel, but it is also almost one third of the weight. This is the main reason why aircraft are made from Aluminum.

Most tempers and alloys of aluminum dent, ding or scratch more easily as compared to steel. Steel is strong and less likely to warp, deform or bend under weight, force or heat.

I make my living designing things using both metals and the primary reason to choose Aluminum over steel is weight... And Like I said if I'm that worried about 50 to 100 pounds of weight differential... I need a bigger truck...

Can an aluminum hitch work... of course it can... Does anyone really need one... That's the question you got to ask...

They do make a steel, railed version...

The best thing is that we all may have different opinions and thankfully can satisfy those opinions with the different options available. Meanwhile, I like the benefits of aluminum wheels, heads, transfer cases, airplanes and hitches, etc.

[tunatundra]

U know this Andersen thread got to a reading of medium on the "temper temperature". On other forums the thread gets closed as tempers get out of control. I use an Andersen but have no reason to sell it to anyone. Just not worth it. Just for your information as that is why we post, I find it is the easiest hitch to hook and unhook I have seen. I can hook it up with truck at severe angles to the pin. Buy what you want as there are good hitches out there and no skin off my nose. Good luck.

[cmlong]

Here is the reply I got from Lippert on the Anderson hitch.

Thank you for contacting Lippert Components. We do not endorse the use of this product, if you were to have a failure to the chassis or upper deck and it’s determined to be contributed to the use of the Anderson Hitch, then this would not be an LCI responsibility.

This goes for any aftermarket gooseball adaptor or coupler.


Thomas Laymon
Contact Center Technical Rep, Warranty

[Outback 325BH]

Here is the reply I got from Lippert on the Anderson hitch.

Thank you for contacting Lippert Components. We do not endorse the use of this product, if you were to have a failure to the chassis or upper deck and it’s determined to be contributed to the use of the Anderson Hitch, then this would not be an LCI responsibility.

This goes for any aftermarket gooseball adaptor or coupler.


Thomas Laymon
Contact Center Technical Rep, Warranty



Considering the added stress on the king pin that doesn't surprise me.


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[John&Genny]

I'm not a structual engineer but perhaps you can explain why the Andersen hitch would put any more stress on the Lippert frame than say the Reese Goosebox, which btw is sold by Lippert?

[Desert185]

...and if there were to be damage, Andersen Hitches has a $5 million policy to cover anything related to installing the hitch, all to be determined by an independent arbitrator.

[Bolo4u]

I'm not a structual engineer but perhaps you can explain why the Andersen hitch would put any more stress on the Lippert frame than say the Reese Goosebox, which btw is sold by Lippert?

Because it looks like the Goosebox involves replacing the ENTIRE pinbox assembly, thus distributing the forces throughout the entire assembly, vs. the Anderson adaptor being bolted/clamped to the pin.

[Bolo4u]

...and if there were to be damage, Andersen Hitches has a $5 million policy to cover anything related to installing the hitch, all to be determined by an independent arbitrator.

And all it takes is the independent arbitrator determining the user failed to properly torque the bolts/setscrews properly, or at the appropriate intervals = declined.

[Desert185]

Because it looks like the Goosebox involves replacing the ENTIRE pinbox assembly, thus distributing the forces throughout the entire assembly, vs. the Anderson adaptor being bolted/clamped to the pin.

Well, the Goosebox is like the OEM pinbox with the Anderson ball coupler added to it. I don't see any evidence that there are increased stresses on the trailer. No evidence. Just opinion.

[Bolo4u]

Well, the Goosebox is like the OEM pinbox with the Anderson ball coupler added to it. I don't see any evidence that there are increased stresses on the trailer. No evidence. Just opinion.

Im sorry we disagree, but the Goosebox is WAY more involved than just having the Anderson coupler added to it.

[gkainz]

Call me names all you want, but the whole thing is still a big jury-rig in my eyes. Not trying to upset anyone, just stating my opinion.


If you feel I was calling you names, then please accept my apology. That was not my intent. I was simply trying to describe how the words you chose came off like a personal attack on those who like and use the Andersen hitch.

By the way, referring to aircraft and aluminum in the many posts above, I prefer my aircraft in fabric and dope... :)

[Outback 325BH]

Im sorry we disagree, but the Goosebox is WAY more involved than just having the Anderson coupler added to it.


Exactly.

That goosebox is a coupler designed for a ball.

The Andersen clamps on the pin and sits on the ball several inches away from the pin. Those inches are a lever that tries to bend the pin off. All the tongue/pin-weight of the trailer, normally carried by the box resting on the hitch-plate, is now carried by that lever on the pin.

Obviously the pins are pretty darn strong because we don't hear about them breaking, however this is an added stress that was not part of the 5th wheel design. The Andersen introduces a "break off" stress to the pin where a traditional 5th wheel hitch normally has more of a "shear" (although a combination of the two since the bottom of the pin isn't supported).

The goosebox is making the trailer mate with a ball correctly.

I still don't like the hitch design where it is trying to pull out the goose ball from the TV.


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[Desert185]

Im sorry we disagree, but the Goosebox is WAY more involved than just having the Anderson coupler added to it.

Way more involved doesn't make it more capable.

I'm still looking for evidence of failure(s) with the Andersen, not opinion. As a side note, there is evidence of failure with conventional 5th wheel hitches. Granted, there are more out there, increasing the odds, but that still doesn't mean they are inferior or better.

[Bolo4u]

Way more involved doesn't make it more capable.

I'm still looking for evidence of failure(s) with the Andersen, not opinion. As a side note, there is evidence of failure with conventional 5th wheel hitches. Granted, there are more out there, increasing the odds, but that still doesn't mean they are inferior or better.

Have a great day.

[Desert185]

And all it takes is the independent arbitrator determining the user failed to properly torque the bolts/setscrews properly, or at the appropriate intervals = declined.

Probably much like any other hitch or trailer manufacturer.

[kfxgreenie]

I still don't like the hitch design where it is trying to pull out the goose ball from the TV.


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B&W makes a lot of the turnover ball gooseneck hitches, and the B&W companion which is "traditional" 5th wheel hitch pulls up on the latch pin the same exact way the Andersen would when mounting in their hitch. I don't think that is very much of a concern if B&W engineered it that way. I sure as heck don't worry about my B&W latch pin failing when going down the road. I worry about the next guy that is going to pull in front of me.

[JRTJH]

:horse: Well, this horse is headed to the glue factory.... Dead, discussed and beyond redemption....

Let's all simply agree to disagree on Andersen vs fifth wheel hitches just as we do with Ford, GM and RAM.... Nobody is going to "win" and nobody is going to "lose" it's a preference each of us get to make.

This thread is closed before it gets any more argumentative.