Plumbing stories has me asking.......

[Johnny's Journey]

I've been reading several stories of how plumbing can be a maze with no sense of direction. It only needs to either get in or out under any means possible. Which leads me to this question. Is there a check valve on the city water inlet that does not allow water to enter the fresh water tank as a general rule ? On my previous travel trailer it did not and during PDI I wasn't told there was a manual 3 way I needed to close when using city water. I asked this time during PDI on my new Springdale 202QBWE and the answer was I needed to do nothing. Just place water hose and go. Common sense tells me to start looking or am I just worrying to much ?

[canesfan]

It depends on how they plumbed your rig. Do you have two separate connections, one for using city water and another to fill your tank? Or do you have one connection with a valve, one way lets you use city water and the other fills the tank. Either way there is no "check valve" that I'm aware of that prevents water from going into your tank. The only check valve in the city water system that I know of is the one at the hose connection, behind the little screen, that prevents the pump from pumping water back out the city water connection.

[Johnny's Journey]

It depends on how they plumbed your rig. Do you have two separate connections, one for using city water and another to fill your tank?Yes I have both. The last unit I had the city water tied into the outlet line of the water pump. It was there that a 3 way valve/tee would stop city pressurized water from flowing back thru the pump and into the tank. Mind you, the flow of water that went back to the tank wasn't a full flow. But after time the tank would over fill.

[jsmith948]

Our trailer has a check valve at the city water connection that prevents the pump from pumping water overboard when city water is not in use. There is also a check valve in the pump that prevents water from backflowing into the FW tank when connected to city water. Of course, our FW tank is gravity filled. But, even with a pressure fill, it would seem that there would have to be a check valve at the pump to prevent backflow.

[Bob Landry]

There is a check valve, otherwise you would fill the FW tank when you connected to the city water connection.

[bobbecky]

After having the check valve fail on a previous pump, and prior to being able to replace that pump, I picked up a check valve along with shark bite fittings for both ends and installed this in the PEX line on the tank side of the water pump.

[Johnny's Journey]

I picked up a check valve along with shark bite fittings for both ends and installed this in the PEX lineShark bite brand !? Home Depot I presume :cool:

[chuckster57]

Home Depot or lowes. Two styles of clamps and tool to crimp.

[Johnny's Journey]

Two styles of clamps and tool to crimp.A little spin off for just one moment to talk about the crimping tool. At nearly $70 for a crimper I modified a pair of end nippers to do the job when adding an outside sprayer to my last trailer.

[Blueswede]

Just an FYI.....Sharkbite fittings do not require that you crimp them. They are just push on....

[JRTJH]

A little spin off for just one moment to talk about the crimping tool. At nearly $70 for a crimper I modified a pair of end nippers to do the job when adding an outside sprayer to my last trailer.

It's great to modify a tool to do another job. For some people who only use a tool one or two times, it's an option that can "get 'er done". As for PEX band crimp tools, the "better quality tools" have a safety feature that's not included in a home made version. On a "real tool" you can't remove the crimper until the crimp is completed. What that does "for you" is assure that the proper tension is applied to the band to seal against leaks and not damage the PEX by crushing it too tightly. There's a 'fine line" that once crossed will set up the PEX to leak in the future. The "real deal" prevents that from happening.

Just as you can use a Phillips screwdriver as a punch, a common screwdriver as a chisel or a crescent wrench as a hammer, you can crimp PEX bands with a modified pair of pliers. As long as you're careful, it'll work "most of the time"...

A "real deal tool" can be bought at Lowe's or Amazon for less than $25 and will prevent "overcrimping" the band. https://www.amazon.com/Yescom-Cinch-Ratcheting-Clamp-Fastening/dp/B014QR9DCS/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1503080737&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=pex+crimping+tool&psc=1 When "on your head, upside down, twisted into a small cabinet space inside an RV, it's not the time to be "fidigeting around" with a home made tool that might set up another problem down the line. That "little ratchet thing" in the picture makes a world of difference when crimping PEX bands.

There's something to be said for "Use the right tool for the job." While not "rocket science", for me, it applies to most of what I carry with me and what I have in the tool box in the pole barn......

[Johnny's Journey]

^^^^^ I'm well aware of all the things a "proper" crimper has designed into it. Where do you think I stole how to exactly grind and place the correct gap into a pair of end nippers I carefully selected to modify ?

[JRTJH]

And someone without your machinist skills who might read your post and consider that they can do it to ???? We all need to be "careful" with suggestions on the forum. Remember that you're providing information to a large audience whose "skill set" ranges from not knowing what a screwdriver is to someone who uses them and extends to those who design them. Suggesting that "At nearly $70 for a crimper I modified a pair of end nippers to do the job when adding an outside sprayer to my last trailer." could easily lead someone without the appropriate skills and the vast understanding of the "proper tool's design characteristics" and cause them to injure themselves or create a problem that might damage or destroy their trailer. I'd suggest to you that not everyone has your vast knowledge of being "well aware of all the things a "proper" crimper has designed into it."

That's one reason my posts tend to be lengthy and long winded. I prefer to not "bait someone" with a one liner, but rather give them enough understanding of the topic so they can judge for themselves whether they have the skills and experience to try it at home or take it to the repair shop for professional help. It's not "what we know" but "what we convey to the member reading our post" that counts .

[chuckster57]

And I have both style crimpers in my tool box. Can't afford a comeback because the repair failed.

[Johnny's Journey]

I have everything at my disposal to do anything. :lol: Light'n up. I get it, your both in the profession of RV repairs. Let's move along now.

[JRTJH]

I have everything at my disposal to do anything. :lol: Light'n up. I get it, your both in the profession of RV repairs. Let's move along now.

I am NOT in the profession of RV repairs and I don't do RV repairs (except my own) My "history of RV repairs is owning my own RV repair business in Denver from 1972 to 1975. I sold it when I was reassigned from Lowry AFB to Bitburg AB Germany. Since then I've not been associated with the RV business, I have not worked in the business and at my age, I'm not about to start a 4th career. So, apparently, you DON'T GET IT.....

As for light'n up: So long as the information provided by members is accurate, appropriate and in good taste, I haven't seen a moderator "get heavy" so there's not a need to "light'n up".... However, sometimes, when we see a post that could get someone hurt or cause damage, it's our responsibility to address the issue. We'll all (I'm sure I speak for all the moderators) continue to do the best we can and hope that you will as well !