2017 Keystone Laredo 298srl AC Issue

[heiserk0410]

Hi everyone,

We have used our new rig multiple times this summer and have had a laundry list of issues pop up. The dealer has taken care of most everything, but they did not fix the AC issue. We can't get the AC to kick on in the "AUTO" mode. We have to have it in the "ON" and "LOW" setting on the thermostat for the AC condenser to kick on. Even sometimes in that position you can hear the condenser hum like it's trying to kick on but doesn't have enough power to do so. We have to turn it off, wait a couple minutes, and then try again until it works. We took it to the dealer and they said that they couldn't repeat the problem. :confused: We just got back from camping over the 4th, and the same thing. Now our rig has a 50amp connection and we were dog-boned to a 30amp connection, but that shouldn't make a difference...right? I've owned multiple RV's and have never had an issue with the AC. Very frustrating to say the least.

[ctbruce]

Just a WAG, but did you have too many other electric appliances on that drew down the Amps required to run your AC? I'm no expert, so just throwing this out there to see if it will stick to the wall. Good luck.

[heiserk0410]

Just a WAG, but did you have too many other electric appliances on that drew down the Amps required to run your AC? I'm no expert, so just throwing this out there to see if it will stick to the wall. Good luck.

Nothing overbearing on the system being used. At least nothing that would have caused this issue with any of my previous rigs. Also...sorry to seem ignorant, but what is a WAG?

[Javi]

nothing overbearing on the system being used. At least nothing that would have caused this issue with any of my previous rigs. Also...sorry to seem ignorant, but what is a wag?

wild *** guess :D

I will say this... not all dog bones are created equal, I'd check the pedestal and the dog bone... make sure you're getting enough amps to start the a/c... at least 17 amps with nothing else on...

[ctbruce]

wild *** guess :D

I will say this... not all dog bones are created equal, I'd check the pedestal and the dog bone... make sure you're getting enough amps to start the a/c... at least 17 amps with nothing else on...

Thanks, Javi! I was going towards there not being enough power to start the AC and you covered it very well. :bow:

[heiserk0410]

Seems like this would be caught at the dealer when I dropped it off. If they are troubleshooting properly, they would be using my supplied power cord and my supplied dog-bone to do their testing. This hasn't happened at just one campground but every campground we have gone to this year. Hard to believe every campground that I have visited has power issues. Even the ones I've used straight 50 amp connection.

[JRTJH]

Seems like this would be caught at the dealer when I dropped it off. If they are troubleshooting properly, they would be using my supplied power cord and my supplied dog-bone to do their testing. This hasn't happened at just one campground but every campground we have gone to this year. Hard to believe every campground that I have visited has power issues. Even the ones I've used straight 50 amp connection.

You might want to touch base with your dealer's service advisor and ask whether they used your dogbone/power cord or not. Many dealerships have power cords that stay at each service bay and they don't "wrestle" the heavy cord out of a customer's trailer. Besides, with so many storage areas on most trailers, it becomes a "scavenger hunt" to even find where the customer hid it.... So, unless your power cord is permanently attached to the trailer, I'd guess it was never removed from the storage area.

Is that the "right way to troubleshoot"??? Only your dealership can justify their decision.

[heiserk0410]

You might want to touch base with your dealer's service advisor and ask whether they used your dogbone/power cord or not. Many dealerships have power cords that stay at each service bay and they don't "wrestle" the heavy cord out of a customer's trailer. Besides, with so many storage areas on most trailers, it becomes a "scavenger hunt" to even find where the customer hid it.... So, unless your power cord is permanently attached to the trailer, I'd guess it was never removed from the storage area.

Is that the "right way to troubleshoot"??? Only your dealership can justify their decision.

I understand that completely. My only argument would be that if I'm a technician and my customer tells me that this has been a problem since the date of purchase and at every campground that they've gone, I would at the very least speak with the customer and ask where the power cords / dog-bones are to rule those out as a possibility also instead of just stating that they can't repeat the problem. I'll be calling my dealer and asking if they tested those out also.

[sourdough]

The dealer will check out your cable, that was supplied with your trailer, if you request it as part of a warranty check. They will not, to my knowledge, take all of your personal add ons (dogbone, generators,etc. etc.) and check them out for you. They aren't part of the warranty service.

Edit: Have you stayed with them and helped them recreate the problem? If not, they may be missing something in the sequence. When I have a complex problem, I am in the bay with the tech and service manager to assure that we are all on the same page, I see what they see and they do what I think they should to resolve the issue.

[heiserk0410]

The dealer will check out your cable, that was supplied with your trailer, if you request it as part of a warranty check. They will not, to my knowledge, take all of your personal add ons (dogbone, generators,etc. etc.) and check them out for you. They aren't part of the warranty service.

Edit: Have you stayed with them and helped them recreate the problem? If not, they may be missing something in the sequence. When I have a complex problem, I am in the bay with the tech and service manager to assure that we are all on the same page, I see what they see and they do what I think they should to resolve the issue.

I agree. I left a message for the service department but apparently they are not accepting calls until next week. I should be receiving a call from the service manager on Monday to setup an appointment to take it back in. I will recommend that we work together to see/resolve the issue. Unfortunately I'll probably have to take more time off work to do so. They are a 45 minute drive in the opposite way of my work. But...hopefully we can work together to find a solution.

[wallacedb1]

Hi everyone,

We have used our new rig multiple times this summer and have had a laundry list of issues pop up. The dealer has taken care of most everything, but they did not fix the AC issue. We can't get the AC to kick on in the "AUTO" mode. We have to have it in the "ON" and "LOW" setting on the thermostat for the AC condenser to kick on. Even sometimes in that position you can hear the condenser hum like it's trying to kick on but doesn't have enough power to do so. We have to turn it off, wait a couple minutes, and then try again until it works. We took it to the dealer and they said that they couldn't repeat the problem. :confused: We just got back from camping over the 4th, and the same thing. Now our rig has a 50amp connection and we were dog-boned to a 30amp connection, but that shouldn't make a difference...right? I've owned multiple RV's and have never had an issue with the AC. Very frustrating to say the least.
I have had this same problem with the A/C . The problem was the voltage drop from the power pole to the camper. I was using a cheap 30 amp 25 ft extension cord. I would turn the refrigerator and water heater on to gas and everything worked fine. Chances are your dealer is plugged straight into 50 amp service, nice clean power. That's why they can't duplicate it.

[Frank G]

The OP started out with 2 issues.

First issue, AC will not run in Auto. I just went out to verify the operation of our unit. With a Coleman Mach thermostat controller. With the left switch on "Cool" and the right switch on "Auto" the AC should run provided the thermostat is calling for cooling.

Second issue, Compressor will not start. There are a lot of refrigeration things at play here. 1) The unit needs enough voltage, this is spelled out in the owners manual. Check the start up voltage, amperage has nothing to do with it, they, amps, come along for the ride. Ohms law here. With a constant load as voltage decreases amps increase. 2) There is an internal time delay for restarting the compressor after a compressor shutdown. This prevents the compressor starting, or trying to start, under load and overloading the electrical circuit.

During the summer months with full campgrounds, campground electrical systems can be severely overloaded. the most noticeable result is "brownout" conditions or Low Voltage.

Bottom Line, You may have issues within your unit, but if your dealer plugs it in to a known power source and the AC works, you have to start looking elseware. There are a lot of good add on power analyzers and surge suppressors out there, Everyone should have the best they can afford to protect there investment and know what you are plugging into.

[heiserk0410]

So we had a break for a few weeks and took the rig back to the dealer for another look. This time they say they found the problem. They say they traced it back to faulty wiring on the thermostat. We haven't had a chance to take her back out for a test drive per-say, but we sure hope they're right! I need to get that 30amp outlet run in the barn. Just got to find the time and $$.

:camping: