Using Airbags

[bsmith0404]

We've been out on a 2,000 mile round trip camping adventure this week and it amazes me how many trucks I see running airbags with their 5ers. I don't use them, don't have a need to and I don't really have a problem with anyone who does. The problem I have is with so many rigs I see going down the road, with airbags obviously inflated to keep the TV level or at original ride height and the 5er is nose high. Many look like they don't have enough bed clearance to drop the front. Come on guys, a little squat is ok, that's what the overload springs are for. Let some of the air out, let the backend drop a little and get your rigs as close to level as you can. It's okay to let the truck squat, really!

[xrated]

Just curious, what would you say is an acceptable amount of squat on a 2016 F350 CC Dually like mine? I have a tow behind and not a 5ver.

[bsmith0404]

In my opinion, let it use the overload springs that's what they're designed to do. The newer trucks run softer/fewer springs so they have a softer ride when empty. The overloads kick in when weight is added. They are designed to squat and hit the overloads. If you don't bottom out then your suspension is working as designed.

[Desert185]

Agreed.

In my case the rear sits higher than the front when empty. When loaded, a slight squat is noticeable. However, when I tried Timbrens the truck tows level. I'm thinking some squat is acceptable, but I have also seen what appears to be an overload, even with a 350/3500. At least with airbags the squat angle can be adjusted. My Timbrens worked out really well for our situation, though.

[MattHelm21]

Agreed. I would say my F450 squats 2 inches when I drop the 3800 lbs pin on it. Unhitched, the suspension is off the overload providing a better ride quality. I always figured air springs would impair this(also adds weight). I also see no reason to lift the truck off the overloads unless the manufacturer designed the suspension geometry with this in mind like the Dodge trucks with the factory air suspension. I adjusted the hitch/pin so the trailer sits level with the truck's squat. It may not be pretty but the truck was designed to work this way.

[chuckster57]

I put bags on my '94 because my old fiver had a pin weight that would put the suspension just off the overloads. Hit a bump and you would bounce for a while. Bags kept it OFF the overloads. Old fiver was north of 2200 pin, current is 1295 empty so probably about 1500. I do keep about 30 PSI in the bags to keep it off the overloads.

[Dave W]

I'm not about to run my truck on the overloads - as that name implies that you ARE overloaded and are restricting your suspension's capability to control bounce and rebound. I also don't want my headlights in the trees searching out owls either with the suspension on the overloads. I want my truck and 5th wheel as level as possible and if it requires a set of air bags or an add-a-leaf, that's where I'll be. Then there is the fact that not all 3/4 ton and up trucks have an overload spring leaf or even a sway bar - then what happens? On my truck, 20-30 pounds in the bags , depending on the truck bed load, works just fine. Next, running on an overload leaf does wonder for the front suspension, in particular the caster and to some amount, camber effect and steering which may contribute to tire wear. Then there are the long haul tractor trailer combos - and virtually all now run air or air over leaf suspension. It works and is easily adjustable for pin load for leveling.

If you want your pickup truck on the overload leafs and listen to them clatter or squeak on bumps, so be it - not my way for an enjoyable tow:lol:.

[bsmith0404]

Actually, the suspension is designed to ride on those springs when load is applied. In old school trucks the manufacturers just built a big stack of leaf springs to handle the max payload and that's what you drove on all the time loaded or empty, many times leaving every filling in your mouth laying on the floorboards as they rattled out along the way. The new suspensions are designed for a soft ride when empty and more springs are engaged as weight is added to the vehicle. Using airbags to keep the truck from engaging the helper springs as they are actually called is defeating the purpose and design of the suspension system. As for tractor trailers, that's a big difference. Can you imagine the spring stack that would be required to support the pin weight they have? And to be honest with you, I've never heard my springs making any noise as I drive down the road with the helper springs engaged, you may want to check the suspension on that Ford if yours makes that much noise, sounds like other issues to me. :D

Finally, 2" of squat isn't putting my headlights in the trees or messing with my alignment, still getting a nice wear pattern on all 6 tires.

[Frank G]

Wow, happy fathers day ya all, grab an adult beverage, relax and chill out. :popcorn:

[bsmith0404]

Getting back to the original intent of the post, I'm not telling people that they should or shouldn't use air bags. The intent is simply that if using them, you don't need to pump them up to get your truck back to empty ride height at the expense of towing level. It's okay to have some squat, your truck was designed to do that when a load is applied. IMO, there are too many people using air bags at the expense of a well set up towing combination.

[CaptnJohn]

Getting back to the original intent of the post, I'm not telling people that they should or shouldn't use air bags. The intent is simply that if using them, you don't need to pump them up to get your truck back to empty ride height at the expense of towing level. It's okay to have some squat, your truck was designed to do that when a load is applied. IMO, there are too many people using air bags at the expense of a well set up towing combination.

I agree 100%. My F350 is just fine and level towing a 43' 5er with a 2830# PW. I often wonder how many bags are installed that are not needed but falls into the 'everybody has them' category or because the truck is overloaded.

[Rick52]

I agree with Dave for a couple of reasons. Although the overload springs are there to help in and "overload" situation, driving down the road at 60 miles per hour and having to brake hard can cause a big issue. Because the truck is already slightly down in the rear the trailer is going to push hard forcing it down even more causing the front wheels to rise and you quickly lose the best possible steering control. Second, I like going down the road level looking like a well setup towing combination. I have a B&W companion slider hitch in use with my B&W turnball hitch. B&W is a beautiful hitch and gives you many combinations so you can get your trailer level with your truck bed in any given situation. I also installed the firestone 5000 airbags. When I see a truck and rv going down the road with significant sag, it just looks sloppy, IMHO. With all the great equipment available, why not. BTW, I have a 2016 Lariet F-250 fx4 diesel.

[kennyskywalker]

We've been out on a 2,000 mile round trip camping adventure this week and it amazes me how many trucks I see running airbags with their 5ers. I don't use them, don't have a need to and I don't really have a problem with anyone who does. The problem I have is with so many rigs I see going down the road, with airbags obviously inflated to keep the TV level or at original ride height and the 5er is nose high. Many look like they don't have enough bed clearance to drop the front. Come on guys, a little squat is ok, that's what the overload springs are for. Let some of the air out, let the backend drop a little and get your rigs as close to level as you can. It's okay to let the truck squat, really!
Depending on 5ver weight they truly make a difference, I'm speaking from experience. Without bags hit a dip in the road the tires roll side to side more (unstable). Airbags correct all of that, you seriously will think you are not pulling anything. Now I'm talking about real max weights, if I were pulling 7 or 8k I probably would not have bags, but max weights require enhancements.

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[kfxgreenie]

I must comment on this one, I've been keeping my keyboard too quiet way to long. Xrated has recently posted how he had a stability issue with his TT TH obviously due to a light tongue and could not put any more weight on his tongue as he would be over GVWR on a 250/2500. He had a "stability" issue and yet had added bags and an auxiliary fuel tank to the truck. He ran the tongue light just so he would be "legal" as he had no other "choice". Did the bags and tank (even empty) not take away from payload (tongue weight)? This forum praised him for being "legal" and putting others at risk by having a "legal" rig. Did he need bags, the tank? On a 250 2500 at 10K PROBABLY not. :facepalm: yet it was the "3/4 Ton" that was the problem. After he got a 1 Ton Dually and put THE PROPER TONGUE WEIGHT on the truck for the GCWR everything was solved and he was welcomed to the "CLUB." Now I have no doubt that the stability and towing experience is better with the larger 3500 (DRW), but come on call a spade a spade. Load your rig properly, and let these new trucks do what they are built to do! :popcorn::popcorn::popcorn:
:popcorn::popcorn::popcorn::popcorn::popcorn::popc orn::popcorn::popcorn::popcorn::popcorn::popcorn:: popcorn::popcorn::popcorn: Now i will go back into my hole.:hide::hide::hide:

[MattHelm21]

Because the truck is already slightly down in the rear the trailer is going to push hard forcing it down even more causing the front wheels to rise and you quickly lose the best possible steering control.

I'm going to through a lot of if's here so be gentle. :) If we are talking about fifth wheels and a properly installed hitch placing the pin over or slightly ahead of the rear axle, no weight is going to be removed from the front wheels under braking, in fact, the weight transfer will place more weight on the front wheels as the pin under braking will act as a lever rotating more weight over the front axles. Only heavy acceleration could remove weight from the front and you would likely need a jet engine from a 747 for that to be significant. :)

Now, if the fifth wheel pin is slightly behind the axle which is always bad, there is a sweet spot somewhere where the lever force pushing forward on the hitch would be overcome by the lever force pushing down on the bed behind the rear axle. This would not be very far I think and would lift weight off the front wheels.

[JRTJH]

Without an engineering degree (except for farm tractor driving and PTO/3point hitch operation) I agree with what Matt is saying. Makes sense that with a properly positioned fifth wheel hitch, you can't lift the front of the truck by pushing down anywhere between the rear axle and the front of the bed.

Now, I don't know about other locations, but around here, all the "kids" (you know, people younger than me with "adult toys") are adding 2" lifts to the front axle of their trucks. From the factory, the truck rides 2" high in the rear, so adding to the front makes the truck level.

THEN: when they drive, the truck sits "level" UNTIL they add their fifth wheel which "squats the rear" 2".... but now, with the 2" lift on front, there's 4" of "squat" when you look at the truck... So, the answer (at least around here) is adding air bags to lift the rear 4"....

Hmmmmmm Now, my "tractor engineering degree" tells me that what they're really doing is "lifting the truck to unload the springs BEYOND" where they typically ride when the truck is empty..... Seems to me that what they're really doing is putting the truck's rear suspension in a "negative load" condition to make the truck ride level with the 2" lift in the front.....

Sort of like (in my reasoning, anyway) giving something away, then buying it back so you can give it to the person you bought it from and tell them that "you got the better deal"..... :popcorn:

[ctbruce]

I must comment on this one, I've been keeping my keyboard too quiet way to long. Xrated has recently posted how he had a stability issue with his TT TH obviously due to a light tongue and could not put any more weight on his tongue as he would be over GVWR on a 250/2500. He had a "stability" issue and yet had added bags and an auxiliary fuel tank to the truck. He ran the tongue light just so he would be "legal" as he had no other "choice". Did the bags and tank (even empty) not take away from payload (tongue weight)? This forum praised him for being "legal" and putting others at risk by having a "legal" rig. Did he need bags, the tank? On a 250 2500 at 10K PROBABLY not. :facepalm: yet it was the "3/4 Ton" that was the problem. After he got a 1 Ton Dually and put THE PROPER TONGUE WEIGHT on the truck for the GCWR everything was solved and he was welcomed to the "CLUB." Now I have no doubt that the stability and towing experience is better with the larger 3500 (DRW), but come on call a spade a spade. Load your rig properly, and let these new trucks do what they are built to do!

And in that thread he answered these questions about the loading. Since he may not see this in this thread its not very fair to call out a member and not give him/her a chance to defend himself. What I really wish is that when there is an issue about weight we could all get together on site and determine what the best course of action should be, take a vote and make it binding on everyone. But since that is not the case and since we are not there, we should not make assumptions about the situations we may only have part of the story to. Just a thought.
:horse::hornets::cry:

[bsmith0404]

Dang now I feel stupid, I was thinking the braking action of the trailer pulling back (I have my trailer brakes set heavier than the truck) would cause a lifting action on the back of the truck as it pulls back. I don't know if air bags would make things better, worse, or have no effect in an emergency braking situation. I only know how suspension systems are designed to work and that there is no need to use air bags to make the truck level, defeating the design of the suspension, and needlessly causing a nose high situation when towing.

Also, I initially made the same mistake many people do by referring to the helper springs as they are commonly known as overload springs. They are accurately called helper and when they engage they help carry the load. To say that you are overloaded by engaging them is not an accurate statement. If you were overloaded when they engage, adding air bags doesn't magically make you not overloaded.

[MattHelm21]

I was thinking the braking action of the trailer pulling back

I "think" the trailer always pushes the truck to a degree under braking. I haven't thought about it much with the factory brake controller I have now but I assume these are still inertial and depend on the deceleration of the truck first in order to apply the trailer brakes. On top of that with the transmission grade braking and engine brake, the trailer is going to be pushing on the truck under deceleration.

[rhagfo]

Depending on 5ver weight they truly make a difference, I'm speaking from experience. Without bags hit a dip in the road the tires roll side to side more (unstable). Airbags correct all of that, you seriously will think you are not pulling anything. Now I'm talking about real max weights, if I were pulling 7 or 8k I probably would not have bags, but max weights require enhancements.

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I would like to know how air bags stop tire roll. Good quality shocks would do better at controlling bounce, but even that would not affect tire roll.

I am a member of the don't need bags club!

http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_243766_0_857a2bf4b9c212b4ee31a209795e0a64.jpg

[kennyskywalker]

I would like to know how air bags stop tire roll. Good quality shocks would do better at controlling bounce, but even that would not affect tire roll.

I am a member of the don't need bags club!

http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_243857_0_857a2bf4b9c212b4ee31a209795e0a64.jpg
I've hit some pretty big dips in the road with significant 5ver weight, without vs. with airbags make big difference

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[Tom N OH]

I'll keep my air bags, thank you very much. And you may /think/ your headlights aren't shining for raccoons, but I'd be willing to bet every other person on the road with you at night has a different opinion.

[bsmith0404]

I'll keep my air bags, thank you very much. And you may /think/ your headlights aren't shining for raccoons, but I'd be willing to bet every other person on the road with you at night has a different opinion.

Think about it this way, when the back end drops the pivot point is basically the front axle. The frame is like a long lever moving on that pivot point. The rear of the truck is approximately 18' away from the pivot point. The further away from the pivot point, the greater the amount of movement. So 18' away moves 2", as you move closer the amount of movement is reduced until you get to the actual pivot point which would have zero movement. I understand that theory is using a fixed pivot point and our trucks have suspension that allows movement at the pivot point, but it is still less than the amount of movement 18' away.

If you have ever hooked up a WDH, part of that process is to measure the height of the front and rear unloaded and then loaded. You then adjust the WDH bars to get the front back as close as you can to original height. The last one I hooked up, the back dropped 2.5", the front raised 3/4".

My point is that the headlights are not moving as high as many people think they do just because the back is squatting a bit. I have driven at night many times and I still have a very good light pattern on the pavement in front of me, not on the highline wires.

[bsmith0404]

Again folks, I'm not saying you shouldn't use air bags, by all means use them if you like them. My only question is why pump them up to the point to return to unloaded height and run the 5er nose high? Can someone please explain to me the benefit of doing that vs using less air in the bags and achieving a closer to level towing situation.

[kennyskywalker]

Again folks, I'm not saying you shouldn't use air bags, by all means use them if you like them. My only question is why pump them up to the point to return to unloaded height and run the 5er nose high? Can someone please explain to me the benefit of doing that vs using less air in the bags and achieving a closer to level towing situation.
Well, the short answer is by utilizing airbags you more evenly distribute weight to all four tires, instead of drive axel taking all the weight, that equals better comfort and control. **One side note, if I had an f350 dually I wouldn't bother with airbags

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[JRTJH]

Well, the short answer is by utilizing airbags you more evenly distribute weight to all four tires, instead of drive axel taking all the weight, that equals better comfort and control. **One side note, if I had an f350 dually I wouldn't bother with airbags

This may seem obvious to anyone who has been reading the Tires Tires Tires section of the forum, but may have been missed by those who haven't kept up with the comments there regarding ST tires, lack of reserve capacity and damage to trailers from tire "blowout".

Here goes: Using air bags to level the truck when towing, for better comfort may be nice, but when one raises the front of the trailer significantly, it "removes loading from the front trailer axle and shifts that weight to the rear trailer axle. That can cause increased wear, increased flexing, increased heat and can, in some situations where there is minimal (if any) reserve capacity in the trailer tires, lead to tire failure.

Ideally, obtaining a towing attitude in which the truck and trailer are both level is the optimum way to tow. I think what Brent is conveying is that if you "jack up the rear of the truck so much that it makes the trailer "tow tail low and nose high", what have you gained?

I'm not saying or implying that you shouldn't be comfortable and maintain control of your tow vehicle by adjusting the ride geometry (if necessary), but if you do it at the expense of trailer geometry, inadvertently overload your trailer rear axle and run the risk of damage because of wanting the "truck to be level", what, if anything, have you gained?

ADDED: As for redistributing weight from the rear axle to the front axle on the truck by increasing the rear 'ride height' by inflating air bags, if you sit on a CAT scale weight pad, weigh your rig, then increase the rear axle height, let's say 4", and reweigh, you'll probably shift less than 100 pounds from the rear to the front of the truck. There's very little weight redistribution at "nominal height changes".

[Ken / Claudia]

I have had air bags in 2 different trucks and carried 2 different in bed campers. Pulled 2 different boats and heaviest in bed loads carried was pallets of tile. What I found is there is a psi with each load and outside temps and elevation that all affect how much psi is right for the best vehicle handling. I found that having those (overload springs?) in gauged in the rear with weight and the front just sitting on them not pushing the spring down provides the best ride, (handling of truck). The truck sits about level. If more air is used the truck bounces way to much. To little and it feels like the truck has no suspension. I found that the truck shakes at higher freeway speeds with to little psi.

[xrated]

I must comment on this one, I've been keeping my keyboard too quiet way to long. Xrated has recently posted how he had a stability issue with his TT TH obviously due to a light tongue and could not put any more weight on his tongue as he would be over GVWR on a 250/2500. He had a "stability" issue and yet had added bags and an auxiliary fuel tank to the truck. He ran the tongue light just so he would be "legal" as he had no other "choice". Did the bags and tank (even empty) not take away from payload (tongue weight)? This forum praised him for being "legal" and putting others at risk by having a "legal" rig. Did he need bags, the tank? On a 250 2500 at 10K PROBABLY not. :facepalm: yet it was the "3/4 Ton" that was the problem. After he got a 1 Ton Dually and put THE PROPER TONGUE WEIGHT on the truck for the GCWR everything was solved and he was welcomed to the "CLUB." Now I have no doubt that the stability and towing experience is better with the larger 3500 (DRW), but come on call a spade a spade. Load your rig properly, and let these new trucks do what they are built to do! :popcorn::popcorn::popcorn:
:popcorn::popcorn::popcorn::popcorn::popcorn::popc orn::popcorn::popcorn::popcorn::popcorn::popcorn:: popcorn::popcorn::popcorn: Now i will go back into my hole.:hide::hide::hide:

Thank you for that post....it just confirms my thoughts that you truly don't have a clue what you are talking about in regard to my trailer/loading/stability issues. And if I still had the F250, I would love to invite you to my place and give YOU the golden opportunity to load my trailer correctly, stay within the weight limits of the truck, and more importantly, make the sway issue that I had go away. Then, you could make a post about how you saved the day for me, solved the problems I had, and saved me $$$$ by not having to buy a different truck. Damn the bad luck!

And BTW, letting these new truck's do what they were built to do, DOESN'T include overloading them, as you seem to be suggesting. And as far as adding the aux. tank, I believe I'll be the one that decides whether or not I want/need it. Again, thanks for your response, it has confirmed for me that you just can't always believe everything you read on the interwebs.

[xcntrk]

I air my bags up to where the overload springs are just barely touching. That way any large bumps I'm immediately engaging the overload springs. Even at this height the rig is still squatting a little. My problem is my TV is too tall to start with and the 5'er tows a little nose high. It's even worse now that I recently upgraded my pin-box to a suspension unit that hangs down a little lower.

[chuckster57]

xcntrk: have you set the pin box as high as it can go? When I changed mine from a solid to the Rota Flex, I had to go up one hole to maintain the same height.

[Javi]

When I ran airbags I adjusted the pressure for the load... It is really simple.. Measure both rear wheel well height before the load.... load and inflate each side until the wheel well is returned to the measured height...

Now adjust the hitch height and/or pin box height to level the trailer... you do not do it before setting the air bags properly...

Folks is making a mountain out of a molehill on this air bag thingy... they're a tool..

If your load is a legal load for your truck and the truck is sagging in the rear and folks are flashing their headlights at you on low beam.... You might need air bags...

Personally... I'd measure all wheel wells before loading and again after loading... if the front is raising up more than a couple of inches... I'd be looking for airbags..

As a reference.. my dually will raise 3/4" when I drop the trailer on it.. with a rick of firewood in the bed and the trailer... 1" to 1-1/2 depending on if I put the wood in front of the bed or behind the hitch ... since my truck is 2" high in the back while unloaded... it's about level when loaded... hence no air bags...

[rhagfo]

..........................

As a reference.. my dually will raise 3/4" when I drop the trailer on it.. with a rick of firewood in the bed and the trailer... 1" to 1-1/2 depending on if I put the wood in front of the bed or behind the hitch ... since my truck is 2" high in the back while unloaded... it's about level when loaded... hence no air bags...

Javi, maybe I should get a F350 DRW like yours! I want it to rise when loaded! :D ;)

[Javi]

Javi, maybe I should get a F350 DRW like yours! I want it to rise when loaded! :D ;)
FRONT... read it again... :D

[rhagfo]

Well, the short answer is by utilizing airbags you more evenly distribute weight to all four tires, instead of drive axel taking all the weight, that equals better comfort and control. **One side note, if I had an f350 dually I wouldn't bother with airbags

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If you are refering to redistributing weight on the TV that is not correct! Lifting the rear back to level doesn't move any weight to the front axle. Now a WDH will move weight off the rear axle and move to both the trailer and front axle.

[rhagfo]

FRONT... read it again... :D

Yep, missed that, likely as I I never thought placing weight directly or slilightly ahead of the rear axle would remove weight from the front axle as it is now the fulcrum point.

[bsmith0404]

When I ran airbags I adjusted the pressure for the load... It is really simple.. Measure both rear wheel well height before the load.... load and inflate each side until the wheel well is returned to the measured height...

Now adjust the hitch height and/or pin box height to level the trailer... you do not do it before setting the air bags properly...

Folks is making a mountain out of a molehill on this air bag thingy... they're a tool..

If your load is a legal load for your truck and the truck is sagging in the rear and folks are flashing their headlights at you on low beam.... You might need air bags...

Personally... I'd measure all wheel wells before loading and again after loading... if the front is raising up more than a couple of inches... I'd be looking for airbags..

As a reference.. my dually will raise 3/4" when I drop the trailer on it.. with a rick of firewood in the bed and the trailer... 1" to 1-1/2 depending on if I put the wood in front of the bed or behind the hitch ... since my truck is 2" high in the back while unloaded... it's about level when loaded... hence no air bags...

I agree with everything you are saying, the problem that I've been seeing a lot of is that people raise the back with air bags, but don't have the bed clearance to drop the hitch so they are running extremely nose high. IMO, they should let some of the air out and drop the back a bit to get closer to level.

[Javi]

I agree with everything you are saying, the problem that I've been seeing a lot of is that people raise the back with air bags, but don't have the bed clearance to drop the hitch so they are running extremely nose high. IMO, they should let some of the air out and drop the back a bit to get closer to level.

My dad was fond of a saying... Life is a series of tests intended to thin the herd... :D

[rhagfo]

I agree with everything you are saying, the problem that I've been seeing a lot of is that people raise the back with air bags, but don't have the bed clearance to drop the hitch so they are running extremely nose high. IMO, they should let some of the air out and drop the back a bit to get closer to level.

My thought is level the TV, then adjust hitch for 6" clearance at the pin, then do the necessary process to get the trailer level. One does need to make sure not to exceed a total height of 13' 6".

On Edit: There is nothing better than towing level!!

http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_244009_0_857a2bf4b9c212b4ee31a209795e0a64.jpg

[xcntrk]

xcntrk: have you set the pin box as high as it can go? When I changed mine from a solid to the Rota Flex, I had to go up one hole to maintain the same height.
Yes, it's already all the way up. Very little adjustment with my config. Having a standard bed, I use a Superglide slider hitch which has zero height adjustment. So my only adjustment capability are the two sets of king-pin holes. Overall the height is not too bad, I've seen far worse. Surprisingly I see no change in load on my rearmost axle (based on monitoring tire temps/pressure) from the slightly nose high load.

[chuckster57]

I hear you. Those auto sliders do sit high in the bed.

[2014301ktmhauler]

Firestone 5000's on my chevy. Put them on before I installed the B&W hitch. Put 75 psi in them and it made crawling under the truck much easier during the hitch install. You're supposed to air them up for towing too???

[Barbell]

'16 3500 dually. Hook up the fiver; hit the "alt trailer height" switch and the truck lowers about 2 inches to level. Have to have sufficient pin weight to get this to even work. Won't do it with lighter or unloaded trailers. When unhook, truck automatically raises to normal level. Don't all newer trucks do this?

[Dave-Gray]

Do I need to use the air bags in my 3500 Ram dually? Not really. However, I found that when I keep about two inches of clearance between the overload spring and the rubber stop, the ride is better.


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[K_N_L]

I've got bags on my 3500 mainly as I took them out of the 2500 I had previously and they would fit. With only the base 5lbs of air in them, when I hook up the trailer, it almost touches on the front of the first helper spring. By airing up to about 25lbs it gives about a inch of clearance and it seem to ride very smoothly. That said, I dont always travel with a full load of water or toys. But we will be dry camping as we head out west later this summer and I have the option if we load up a bit more weight than normal.

[chuckster57]

Came in handy this morning.

Unhitched at the dealership to install new AC unit. Used forklift to tuck it into a space so I would have Power to test. Got all done and when I hooked back up, the legs didn't retract enough to pull the inner leg pins. Pumped bags to 70 PSI and lifted the back enough to pull the pins. :)