Does anyone know if wear bar under slide can be replaced without removing slide?

[timjwhite]

Keystone Passport 2016 Ultra Lite 2920bh: Not under warranty
After popping and shaking of accu-slide, I have been informed by the company that I will need to replace the gearbox on the accu-slide. In addition, the dealership now says that the wear bar is pinched on the left side of the slide (when slide is closed in camper). They believe the wear bar is "crushed" on the left side and needs to be replaced. They also suggested that I could use plastic rollers instead of a cheaply made wear bar. Price: 129.00/hr with 5-12 hours of work. plus cost of wear bar. Question: Is there anyway to inspect the wear bar before taking it to the dealership and letting them have their way?

[sourdough]

The wear bar is about 5-6" inside the bottom edge under the slide. You can pull the slide out, pull down the seal and look at it with a flashlight. If you have room you can pull the slide in and look at it from the inside as well. On the inside you can only see a small portion at the end.

Make SURE the wear bar is crushed. My dealer told me that the only solution for mine was to pull the slides and replace the wear bars because they were causing the jerking and catching. I had them order a Teflon like material and install it on the bottom of the slides after I found that using Zep 45 stopped all the jerking and catching - it wasn't the wear bar. Now I don't have any issues. Also, make sure they can actually install rollers on your slide. Norco Accu-slide can probably guide you on that.

[chuckster57]

Most slides, if you put it out about 1/2 way, you can put a jack underneath and raise the slide for a better view.

Make darn sure you use a long 2X4 to spread the load and only lift about 2-3 inches. Lift one side at a time, not the whole slide.

[Dave W]

Resurrecting an oldie!!

Main slide, 149" long is tilting in the opening and appears to be dragging on one end bottom with the bottom right and top left verticler oom wall edge hitting or amost hitting the vertical framework. While not 100% confirmed, it looks like there are no rollers but only a wear guard.

- Can the slide be jacked up and a new wear guard installed? This collapsed wear guard is a known problem from what little I can dig out of the 'net

- Can I instead install several rollers plus some aluminum wear protectors as I did on a previous SOB 5er?

These are the rollers I've considered:
http://www.rvlocksandmore.com/core/media/media.nl/id.1117451/c.682831/.f?h=a33d97e08026c4141b20

There are other types at that site as well http://www.rvlocksandmore.com/OutsideRV/Slide-Out-Rollers

[nied]

Take a look at the youtube video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HgGEWmeojN0

[Dave W]

[QUOTE=nied;315710]Take a look at the youtube video /QUOTE]

That's exactly what I was looking for. Looks like I didn't put the right search terms in the You Tube site as I looked there as well as other places.

Thanks

[Dave W]

Just ordered 10 Lippert 276288 J-36 Service Roller from RVUgrades - unfortunately, probably can't install for a few months if that early dump of white stuff yesterday is an indicator of the winter. If they don't work -oh well they'll join a bunch of other 'things' tried and failed.

Gotta say that the BAL wear bar is a crappy (CHEAP!) design for a high 5 figure 5er

[Laredo Tugger]

I agree DaveW. How hard would it have been to install those rollers at the factory while the slide was off and the work surface was at belt height?
I do not have the same slide mechanism on my rig,but it's good to know that some after market rollers are available if I need to eliminate problems in the future.
Thanks
RMc

[Dave W]

I agree DaveW. How hard would it have been to install those rollers at the factory while the slide was off and the work surface was at belt height?
I do not have the same slide mechanism on my rig,but it's good to know that some after market rollers are available if I need to eliminate problems in the future.
Thanks
RMc

Just don't rush to order any rollers until I have my chance to see if they work on our 5er:nonono::nonono:

One of us spending a couple hundred bucks is enough for now:)

[Laredo Tugger]

Copy that.
Iv'e got some inspection and research to do before I do anything.
Just wish I was close enough to buy the beer when you do your project in the spring. :cool:
Good luck.
RMc

[Frank G]

Bontragers Supply in White Pigeon MI has shelf's full of those rollers for about $5.00 each.

https://bontragers.com/


Trekwood shows a redesigned replacement for the OEM wear bar

http://www.trekwood.com/products/605985/Seal-Co-Extruded-Upper-Floor-Cap-Wear-Bar-1-2-Black-168-

[Dave W]

Bontragers Supply in White Pigeon MI has shelf's full of those rollers for about $5.00 each.

https://bontragers.com/


Trekwood shows a redesigned replacement for the OEM wear bar

http://www.trekwood.com/products/605985/Seal-Co-Extruded-Upper-Floor-Cap-Wear-Bar-1-2-Black-168-

Frank, thanks for your input.

Unfortunately Bontrager's never showed up in many hours of internet searching. Their website isn' too great for just a search either but will bookmaek for later possible use for other items

The wear bar you noted @~5 bucks/length is NLA (no longer available) and the incorrect version . The 'needed' one is about $53 + shipping. To install would require that my slides be removed - and something I can't do in my driveway

[JRTJH]

Dave W,

Bontrager's is not your "typical internet presence". Essentially their website is a "full page newspaper advertisement" type of website. They don't list any specific components, no prices, no ordering information. My "best guess" is that's because they are a "salvage operation" and their inventory changes day to day, depending on what "stuff they pick up" at salvage yards or as surplus from the RV manufacturers from whom they buy "last year's extras"....

Give them a call, (269) 483-7017 or (866) 483-7017. Their primary sales staff is fairly well versed on what they have, where it's located and how much they sell it for. If you can imagine a Big Lots, Harbor Freight, Ace Hardware and an old fashioned general store all rolled up and put in one building next to a loading dock that's adjacent to an RV salvage yard.... Well, that's sort of what Bontrager's would be......

They have definitely NOT entered the "Amazon functionality internet site" category. But they are an excellent source for "hard to find" RV stuff.

ADDED: Take a look at the pictures of their facility and stock located on the RV Parts webpage: https://bontragers.com/rv-supplies-accessories/ What you'll see are rows and rows of "stuff" some used, some new (out of boxes) some new, some last year's colors, some 10 years old, all "either functional or ready to disassemble to get that little part that broke". Everything from #2 Roberts screws in a barrel to Cummins diesel generators to doors, windows, screens, slide rollers, chairs, cabinet doors, furnace sail switches to "if you can imagine it, it's on the shelf, probably dusty but for sale"..... The photos will give you some idea why there's no "pick a tab internet sales page".....

[chuckster57]

Thinking out loud here: We "hyper extend" slides all the time to do lino work and I have replaced lower sweeper seals that look like what you describe. Granted we are talking about through the frame type, but I would suspect yu could do the same with a cable system. If your interested PM me and I can describe how we do it. Im thinking a 90 degree adapter or one of these will allow the needed room to remove/install fasteners.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-24-Piece-Standard-SAE-and-Metric-Polished-Chrome-Mechanic-s-Tool-Set/3387782

[Dave W]

Dave W,

Bontrager's is not your "typical internet presence". ....

John - if Bontrager's had at least shown on my 'net search, I might have given them a call as long as I had a part number.

Thinking out loud here: We "hyper extend" slides all the time to do lino work and I have replaced lower sweeper seals that look like what you describe. Granted we are talking about through the frame type, but I would suspect yu could do the same with a cable system. If your interested PM me and I can describe how we do it. Im thinking a 90 degree adapter or one of these will allow the needed room to remove/install fasteners.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-24-Piece-Standard-SAE-and-Metric-Polished-Chrome-Mechanic-s-Tool-Set/3387782

Chuckster - when you say 'hyper extend, what does that mean to your needs. To me, it means that a slide would be forced beyond normal limits and not something that a DIY should be doing witout some special tooling, jacks or way to stop before an 'awwww s@#$' happened. These above the floor slides can be extended and then carefully jack up 2-3 inches. Would I need more? This is not a job that I can do for a while with the current snow and 2030 degrees that we have so may come back to you for guidance in Mar/April.

I like that tool though probably have every insert bit but no special wrench ... and since I never have enough tools and our local Lowe's has one in stock ....:D

[chuckster57]

Hyper extending involves taking the slide past its normal "stop". to do this you simply remove the "horseshoe" facia and go for it. In your case you would want someone to stand outside to verify the floor of the slide didn't go beyond the floor of the trailer. We use floor jacks and 2X6's to spread the load. and then jack it up. If you can lean the slide outwards it can be lifted above the top of the opening, giving you more room.

I agree its not for the faint at heart or novice DIYer.

[Dave W]

Hyper extending involves taking the slide past its normal "stop". to do this you simply remove the "horseshoe" facia and go for it. In your case you would want someone to stand outside to verify the floor of the slide didn't go beyond the floor of the trailer. We use floor jacks and 2X6's to spread the load. and then jack it up. If you can lean the slide outwards it can be lifted above the top of the opening, giving you more room.

I agree its not for the faint at heart or novice DIYer.

Thanks!
WEll, I am a bit faint of heart with the slide but as an 'advanced' DIYer and former (before electronics, etc.) auto mechanic, will give the jacks and 2x lumber a try ... even though I intend on doing the roller mod --- unless I can't for some reason and have to use the wear bar

[chuckster57]

Your very welcome. The first time I did it I thought the slide was going to fall out :hide:

[Dave W]

Got the rollers yesterday - and they will be returned. The rollers woild stand 1-1/8" from the frame vs 1/2". I could quite probably stand another 1/4" but not 5/8".

Back to the srawing board and probably use the 'improved' OEM wear bar:banghead:

[Ourtyme]

All Hello!
I do realize that this post is a few months old, but I am in a similar predicament.
The rolling cabin is a 2017 Keystone Bullet 272BHS with a 12' slide box with side-by-side couch and dinning table.
A few weeks ago, I uncovered it and extended the slide and as described in numerous posts above, it chattered quite aggressively.
I did read other posts an noticed that the jam nuts on the cable stays were not tight, so I removed the trim, tightened the jam nuts ... no help!
I then read the sacred instructions from BAL and there was minimal improvement.
I then read that many recommended WD-40 with PTFE and decided to set aside the silicone can and give it a go ... it worked well!
However, as i was applying the lube to the wear bar, I noticed that both ends of the integrated wiper seal were being crushed by the slide and the center was not ... Hmm!
Well, I began to think more critically and realized that as the mid-point of the slide box floor did not have a bulk head, and there are not longitudinal reinforcement, the floor is arching up and the ends are bearing more of the load ... AND since keystone had mounted the wear bar on the carpet instead of the solid floor, the ends of the wear bar have sunk into the carpet and the "Bread-Loaf" shaped wear feature has been crushed ... as were my hopes to a quick fix.
I saw this thread and was encouraged, until i started measuring my existing Wear Bar and the dimensions of the J-36 Roller.
As Dave W. stated above, even if I cutout the carpet below each roller, I still have 0.3" of height being consumed by the J-36 Roller.
I have reached out to the Accuslide Team @ BAL and to Keystone to see if there is a roller solution or an integrated Wear Bar/Roller, but now replies yet.
I did purchase the extended warranty, but after some very minor repairs at the dealership, which required me improvising and modifying drywall anchors in a Walmart parking lot, I am not at all looking forward to approaching them.
I do apologize for the lengthy post, but if any of you have read a success story with either another style roller or even an upgraded wear bar, I would greatly appreciate any input!
Thank You!

[Ourtyme]

Dave W.,

Hello Again!
I forgot to ask in my "novel" above, but the rollers that you had returned, was the nylon very hard like nylon caster wheels?
Do you think that I could remove the nylon roll and turn the OD down in a lathe to recover some height?

All the Best!

[MustBeNice]

Has anyone seen this video of roller install....

We experienced some slide chattering at the end of last season and I'm thinking this is the solution I may try if it persists after lubricating things this spring with Silicon w/ Teflon (PTFE).

Roller Link per video: https://store.lci1.com/j-36-service-roller

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HgGEWmeojN0

[CampNBrew2]

Got the rollers yesterday - and they will be returned. The rollers woild stand 1-1/8" from the frame vs 1/2". I could quite probably stand another 1/4" but not 5/8".

Back to the srawing board and probably use the 'improved' OEM wear bar:banghead:

Dave,
Were these the J36 rollers that were too large or a different model #?
I found this cut sheet on RVUpgrades site (Not on Lipperts site that I could find??).
I see my Darco is beginning to fray in a couple of spots underneath the slide. I'd like to replace this wear bar with rollers and possibly a sheet of thin aluminum under the whole slide.

[sourdough]

Has anyone seen this video of roller install....

We experienced some slide chattering at the end of last season and I'm thinking this is the solution I may try if it persists after lubricating things this spring with Silicon w/ Teflon (PTFE).

Roller Link per video: https://store.lci1.com/j-36-service-roller

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HgGEWmeojN0


That is the video from post #5 and what DaveW tried to do I believe and the rollers didn't work. You might read back thru the thread to see how it went.

[MustBeNice]

That is the video from post #5 and what DaveW tried to do I believe and the rollers didn't work. You might read back thru the thread to see how it went.

I had read through the entire thread, but must have missed the video.... my apologies.

I did recall reading that he didn't care for the added height, but don't remember reading if it actually & physically worked or not for those that simply wanted a "roller'ed" solution. I'll go back and read it more thoroughly.

Sure would be nice to see a recall on this p@ss pore design!

[sourdough]

Dave,
Were these the J36 rollers that were too large or a different model #?
I found this cut sheet on RVUpgrades site (Not on Lipperts site that I could find??).
I see my Darco is beginning to fray in a couple of spots underneath the slide. I'd like to replace this wear bar with rollers and possibly a sheet of thin aluminum under the whole slide.


Camp, Dave can verify but I do believe he said the rollers were too "high". Looking at your diagram it shows that the roller is 1 1/16" "tall" (if I can read it correctly). I don't know about Dave's situation but that would be too tall for mine too I would guess. Looks like my wear bar is approx. 1/2" tall.

If your Darco is starting to fray (mine was) you need to get something to get it off the wear bar. I used uhmw strips installed by the dealership and my chattering issues completely disappeared for a couple of years returning (slightly) on one slide this rear returning from FL. I'm sure a good cleaning will fix it. It did however completely stop any further wear on the Darco. When I discussed a cure for the problem with the service manager we discussed aluminum sheets and he recommended the uhmw instead. There may be some information on using the aluminum for that kind of application - I have not looked.

[MustBeNice]

I used uhmw strips installed by the dealership and my chattering issues completely disappeared for a couple of years returning (slightly) on one slide this rear returning from FL. I'm sure a good cleaning will fix it. It did however completely stop any further wear on the Darco.

How thick and how did they attach the UHMW poly strips?

[Hblick48]

The darco on both ends of my kitchen slide was fraying and tearing on one side Also, slideout was getting "hung up" on the torn side when extending.

Jacked up end of slide and found screw holding slide bar had worked it's way out tearing darco.

I found 1/8 x 1 UMHW adhesive tape:
https://www.eplastics.com/accessories/plastic-tape/slick-strips-uhmw/SLICKSTRIP0-060X-1-000X25FT

Applied it to both ends of slide, works great.

[sourdough]

How thick and how did they attach the UHMW poly strips?


1/8" thick poly. They bought it by the sheet and cut 12" wide strips the depth of the slide. Attached with adhesive (don't remember which brand) and 3 counter sunk screws at the outside edge outside the wear bar to stop or minimize "wiggle". So far so good.

The Darco was frayed pretty badly on the edges but appeared that the "wear" extended in a few inches. Also appeared that the damage was due to what apparently was a bowed floor on each of the big slides. How? I have no idea.

[CampNBrew2]

Thanks Folks,
I'm surprised that no thin rollers are available to replace these wear bars. Darco sliding on plastic is a ridiculous design. I was shocked to learn this was how my slide worked. There are many industries using thin rollers. Just need to find one that fits. If I ever do I'll share the info.

[Hblick48]

In my rig, the "wear bar" is made with UMHW, which is very strong, smooth, slick, and slippery. It really does not "wear". The darco is also slippery, so the two sliding on each other provides a pretty slick surface. Problem is the darco will eventually fray causing slide issues. UMHW sliding on UMHW is very slick and provides little resistance.

Although I'm not a plastic engineer, my guess is that UMHW sliding on UMHW would provide less resistance than rollers on darco.

[CampNBrew2]

Great point. I guess it makes sense that the wear bar should be UHMW Poly. I'll have to look at mine again, it did not appear to be UHMW at first look. I guess the UHMW tape with a few countersunk screws is really the easiest repair.

[Steveo57]

I ended up doing this mod to my 2018 Cougar 22RBS. Found these 4' deck drain brackets at Lowes and took a 2" flat aluminum piece to trim it up better. The original trim strip is not wide enough and wasn't even screwed into anything except the thin sidewall of the slide, they missed the wall frame with 95% of the screws. After it all settled in good I covered it with a strip of eternabond.

So far it's working fine.

[GBR]

Not sure this is of any use for you but this is an excellent video of adding rollers the easy way. As long as you have the room above you slide, you can add the rollers with a little effort and minimal cost.
https://youtu.be/HgGEWmeojN0

Good luck;

[Racebug]

added 3 rollers to my kitchen slide and my big couch slide. Had to make mounting tabs and weld them to bracket to reach good metal to screw them to. My floor has a little step where the original holes were at. Was able to move the existing seal up about a 1/4" to reseal and used the seal off the removed piece to seal over rollers. second slide took about 20-25 minutes to do.

[GaRoadRunner]

Hi, just bought a 2017 27RKS and the rubber seal under the main slide has split along the length. I suspect this is part of the wear strip that you are talking about. Just wondering if you had any luck changing this out and did you add the rollers?

[DMK]

added 3 rollers to my kitchen slide and my big couch slide. Had to make mounting tabs and weld them to bracket to reach good metal to screw them to. My floor has a little step where the original holes were at. Was able to move the existing seal up about a 1/4" to reseal and used the seal off the removed piece to seal over rollers. second slide took about 20-25 minutes to do.

Just wondering if we could get an update on this repair? How it's working after some time and if you had any difficulties with either the height of the slide or a bigger gap under the slide between the floor and slide? Did you really need to extend the bracket? Trying to decide if I want to get another wear bar or add these rollers... I currently have my slide room out replacing the floor and going from the 5/8" they had to 3/4" so I'm already going to be taller.
TIA

[Jbo65]

Hey just letting everyone who has this issue and wants to go with rollers BAL makes rollers for the Accu slide
BAL is the accu slide manufacturer Owned by Norco

You’ll need to measure your wear bar because they have 2 size wear bars the used ...1/2 “ and 3/4”
Bal roller part number
1/2” 854304
3/4” 854303
Price was about 9.00 per rollers I got 6 for my 12’ slide

I know because am dealing with this issue now and called Bal tech support and thet told me I could get rollers to upgrade and these rollers can be ordered from colaw rv in mo. (Ask for Josh, really knows his stuff)
They probably have them in stock but If not Josh will drop ship from Bal to you. He had 4 in stock when I was ordering but I needed more so he drop shipped them to me I got them 3 days later

[Pete::51]

Hey just letting everyone who has this issue and wants to go with rollers BAL makes rollers for the Accu slide
BAL is the accu slide manufacturer Owned by Norco

You’ll need to measure your wear bar because they have 2 size wear bars the used ...1/2 “ and 3/4”
Bal roller part number
1/2” 854304
3/4” 854303
Price was about 9.00 per rollers I got 6 for my 12’ slide

I know because am dealing with this issue now and called Bal tech support and thet told me I could get rollers to upgrade and these rollers can be ordered from colaw rv in mo. (Ask for Josh, really knows his stuff)
They probably have them in stock but If not Josh will drop ship from Bal to you. He had 4 in stock when I was ordering but I needed more so he drop shipped them to me I got them 3 days later


I had a similar experience talking to BAL and Colaw RV. Colaw's Tech also stated when they install the BAL rollers they also install a product called a "Slide Out Ski" to protect the Darco fabric from further damage. So I ordered both products. The BAL rollers can only be purchased through a RV dealer, I bought the skis through Amazon. Less than $200 for both.

The skis are similar to the fix Steveo57 came up with but are made specifically to address the sticking slide out issue. The Skis arrived first so I installed them in about 2 hours and found the slides now move like new without the rollers. This also covers the holes worn in the Darco to prevent water penetration in the bottom of the slide.

I will keep the rollers when they arrive and monitor the skis for any excessive wear. If needed, I'll install them in the future. IMO this design combination of wear bars and Darco fabric is defective and I am very disappointed that Keystone hasn't come up with a better system. This problem has been around for years.


Pete::51
2019 Ram 3500, swd, Cummins 6.7
2019 Fuzion 373
2013 HD Tri-glide UC

[ls1mike]

I know this an older one but just went through this with my 2012 Passport 3220BWHE. The extra rollers are not and option for my trailer because of how it is setup.
Here is my story. :)
Well this summer my main slide started chattering and hanging up. Would shake the whole trailer. Finally had some down time to look at it. I have these weird compression rollers on this slide. Only two. When the slide gets to end of travel outbound it sinks down, the rollers help push it up going in. They were bad, replaced them. No change. So the I adjusted the cables no change. I figured it was the wear bar/glide rail or the Darco on the bottom of the slide. So I called the dealer 4000 to 5000 dollars to replace the tray with the rollers and wear bar. Locally it was 3000 to 4000. Well I wanted to try something before throwing in the towel and trading in a paid for, no leaks, recently sealed, wheel bearings packed, everything works travel trailer.
So in comes the UHMW (Ultra High Molecular Weight Plastic). We use this stuff a lot at work. It has great lubrication and anti-abrasion properties. I had to jack up the slide so it was up off the wear bar. In order to get sheets between the wear bar/glide rail and the bottom of the slide.
I put three strips of on the bottom of the slide. 1/4 inch think, buy 39 inches long, the two strips on the ends are 8 inches wide. The one in the middle 10 inches wide. I attached it with 3/4 inch countersunk pan head screws. It raised the slide about a 1/4 of an inch so I didn't have to adjust anything. Tons of clearance. SUCCESS!!! Thing operates better than it did when it was new.

https://thumbs2.imgbox.com/37/28/uvniCD6Y_t.jpg (https://imgbox.com/uvniCD6Y)
https://thumbs2.imgbox.com/42/76/oVUs3Sw1_t.jpg (https://imgbox.com/oVUs3Sw1)
https://thumbs2.imgbox.com/70/2e/xVNX1kq8_t.jpg (https://imgbox.com/xVNX1kq8)

My wear bar and roller tray. There is nothing to attach the roller to and not enough space.
https://thumbs2.imgbox.com/90/b2/JfRQ8CW4_t.jpg (https://imgbox.com/JfRQ8CW4)

[jasin1]

I know this an older one but just went through this with my 2012 Passport 3220BWHE. The extra rollers are not and option for my trailer because of how it is setup.
Here is my story. :)
Well this summer my main slide started chattering and hanging up. Would shake the whole trailer. Finally had some down time to look at it. I have these weird compression rollers on this slide. Only two. When the slide gets to end of travel outbound it sinks down, the rollers help push it up going in. They were bad, replaced them. No change. So the I adjusted the cables no change. I figured it was the wear bar/glide rail or the Darco on the bottom of the slide. So I called the dealer 4000 to 5000 dollars to replace the tray with the rollers and wear bar. Locally it was 3000 to 4000. Well I wanted to try something before throwing in the towel and trading in a paid for, no leaks, recently sealed, wheel bearings packed, everything works travel trailer.
So in comes the UHMW (Ultra High Molecular Weight Plastic). We use this stuff a lot at work. It has great lubrication and anti-abrasion properties. I had to jack up the slide so it was up off the wear bar. In order to get sheets between the wear bar/glide rail and the bottom of the slide.
I put three strips of on the bottom of the slide. 1/4 inch think, buy 39 inches long, the two strips on the ends are 8 inches wide. The one in the middle 10 inches wide. I attached it with 3/4 inch countersunk pan head screws. It raised the slide about a 1/4 of an inch so I didn't have to adjust anything. Tons of clearance. SUCCESS!!! Thing operates better than it did when it was new.

https://thumbs2.imgbox.com/37/28/uvniCD6Y_t.jpg (https://imgbox.com/uvniCD6Y)
https://thumbs2.imgbox.com/42/76/oVUs3Sw1_t.jpg (https://imgbox.com/oVUs3Sw1)
https://thumbs2.imgbox.com/70/2e/xVNX1kq8_t.jpg (https://imgbox.com/xVNX1kq8)

My wear bar and roller tray. There is nothing to attach the roller to and not enough space.
https://thumbs2.imgbox.com/90/b2/JfRQ8CW4_t.jpg (https://imgbox.com/JfRQ8CW4)

“ ultra high molecular weight plastic” I hear that in Clark Griswalds voice from Christmas Vacation when he is explaining the cereal he is working on to a coworker :lol::lol::lol:
.....But seriously that seems brilliant to me. Thanks

[Vet4jdc]

I added three rollers to our 14 foot kitchen slide and it's helped a lot.

[Patti in FL]

Hey just letting everyone who has this issue and wants to go with rollers BAL makes rollers for the Accu slide
BAL is the accu slide manufacturer Owned by Norco

You’ll need to measure your wear bar because they have 2 size wear bars the used ...1/2 “ and 3/4”
Bal roller part number
1/2” 854304
3/4” 854303
Price was about 9.00 per rollers I got 6 for my 12’ slide

I know because am dealing with this issue now and called Bal tech support and thet told me I could get rollers to upgrade and these rollers can be ordered from colaw rv in mo. (Ask for Josh, really knows his stuff)
They probably have them in stock but If not Josh will drop ship from Bal to you. He had 4 in stock when I was ordering but I needed more so he drop shipped them to me I got them 3 days later

Thanks for sharing!
They were out of stock. With part number I was also able to find here:
https://highskyrvparts.com/rv-parts/hardware/slide-out-accessories/bal-rv-slide-out-roller-854304

Patti in FL

[Patti in FL]

Keystone Passport 2016 Ultra Lite 2920bh: Not under warranty
After popping and shaking of accu-slide, I have been informed by the company that I will need to replace the gearbox on the accu-slide. In addition, the dealership now says that the wear bar is pinched on the left side of the slide (when slide is closed in camper). They believe the wear bar is "crushed" on the left side and needs to be replaced. They also suggested that I could use plastic rollers instead of a cheaply made wear bar. Price: 129.00/hr with 5-12 hours of work. plus cost of wear bar. Question: Is there anyway to inspect the wear bar before taking it to the dealership and letting them have their way?

Thanks for posting the question and thanks to all who replied and posted resources. I have paid for service to others in areas that they are much more knowledgeable and capable than I for years. I am happy to do so when they are fair and honest...and I have the financial means.

Since COVID, many have claimed to be in the RV repair business and, as such, have scammed me and others that I know (elderly). Most won't state whether they have any knowledge, experience or ability to repair an issue before they come out and you must pay them to take a look. Cost for them to listen and look to tell me if they can do the repair and at what cost ranges from $125 to $210.

Since May, I have had RV professionals out from three different RV repair companies to fix a Coleman AC unit. This is December, it still has the same problem! Second RV repair company out replaced all components (unit, control box and thermostat) with new, took my old unit and after I paid him said, "If it doesn't work I would have to call Coleman to request service on an under warranty repair." It did not work! He did not take my calls or respond to text messages or return my calls after the install. Wow! Called a third RV repair company. Paid him to come out. He said the unit (new unit that was installed by 2nd company) was no good. He said he would contact Coleman and order a replacement for me. I have called several times and texted regarding. Still waiting for replacement unit to come in!

It is time I at least try to do repairs myself!!!

I am a 60 year old woman with on and off physical challenges due to spinal injury. (Some days are worse than others.) I own a 35 foot 5th wheel and pay someone to move it when it is time. If I must take it to the dealer for slide out repair, dealer repairs (for me) will include dealer cost of repairs and finding and paying a driver to transport back and forth, plus hotel stay. Costly!!!

I will attempt this repair myself and if I fail...
take it to the dealer.

[Ron]

If you do a search on this site under Slide Out Rollers, you will see the pics what I recently done to our RV, Good luck in trying to fix it yourself which ever way you go, the work as you mentioned done by many RV dealers is sub par so you might as well try it yourself, im sure you can do it...

[Berdan]

I was able to find the 1/2" rollers at a good price here.

https://autoplicity.com/search?searchterms=854304

[CampNBrew2]

Do you need to loosen the cables before trying to jack up the slide?
I bought some 9" wide thin UHMW tape to put under the slide. I am trying to figure out how to get it in beyond the wear bar so its never catching a tape edge while sliding. Best I can figure is to jack up the slide, remove the seal/wear bar, apply the tape, and reinstall the wear bar.

[sourdough]

Do you need to loosen the cables before trying to jack up the slide?
I bought some 9" wide thin UHMW tape to put under the slide. I am trying to figure out how to get it in beyond the wear bar so its never catching a tape edge while sliding. Best I can figure is to jack up the slide, remove the seal/wear bar, apply the tape, and reinstall the wear bar.


Chris what exactly is the product you are wanting to place under the slide?

It's not particularly difficult to raise the slide to get a uhmw strip over the wear bar, it is however a much more involved job to try to remove the wear bar which will probably require either hyper extending the slide (not for the faint of heart or those without some muscled up friends) or the removal of the slide (same applies).

[CampNBrew2]

I found a roll of this UHMW tape:
https://www.zoro.com/tapecase-uhmw-polyethylene-tape-9x5yd-9-5-423-5/i/G5740065/

With the 15' roll I can get 5 strips under the slide. It is very thin so hopefully will not wear out too quickly.
I want to make sure I get it over the wear bar when installing it. I am hoping I can get it stuck to the slide about 2/3rds, then fish the rest between the wear bar and slide bottom at the wear bar then pull the remaining adhesive liner off. I'll need to raise the slide slightly to do so.
I am definitely open to suggestions/experiences.
Thanks!

[sourdough]

Others will probably post their opinions but I would be concerned with using the tape. It is apparently very thin meaning the wear bar might play havoc with it and the darco under it. The slide weight will be riding on that tape which is stuck to the darco which is lightly glued to the bottom of the slide (maybe). If the adhesive on the tape is really good it could tear the darco due to the stress/stretch of the slide riding on it creating further problems.

What problem are you trying to repair?

[JRTJH]

I found a roll of this UHMW tape:
https://www.zoro.com/tapecase-uhmw-polyethylene-tape-9x5yd-9-5-423-5/i/G5740065/

With the 15' roll I can get 5 strips under the slide. It is very thin so hopefully will not wear out too quickly.
I want to make sure I get it over the wear bar when installing it. I am hoping I can get it stuck to the slide about 2/3rds, then fish the rest between the wear bar and slide bottom at the wear bar then pull the remaining adhesive liner off. I'll need to raise the slide slightly to do so.
I am definitely open to suggestions/experiences.
Thanks!

You can use a 2x6 or a 2x8 about 10' long, position it "long ways" under your slide, above any ram fittings, put a hydraulic jack on both ends of the 2x6, jack the slide about 2" and you can see under the slide, above the wear bar, all the way to the carpet flap that covers the edge of the slide floor inside your RV.

It's easy to use a straightened coat hanger or a metal yard stick to push the tape through the space above the wear bar and into the interior of your trailer.

Don't go "jacking the trailer so you can fit your arm under the slide floor, you can conceivably jack the slide high enough to crush the slide roof or bend the trailer frame... A couple inches is all the room you'll need.

[CampNBrew2]

The way I am viewing it is that the Darco is currently the sliding surface, and secured to the slide bottom / sides pretty well. The tape should actually reduce the friction of the slide pulling on the Darco, not increase it. The Darco is just beginning to fray in a couple spots (screw heads) so my thinking is to cover these to prevent further dragging.

[CampNBrew2]

Thanks Danny and John for your responses.
I am wondering if I should loosen the cables (not hydraulic) before lifting the slide (slightly is all I need).

[ChuckS]

If you apply ANY kind of tape over that Darco and then the tape rolls on a FIXED wear bar you will then have a bigger mess that you start with..

UHMW tape over a FIXED wear bar will not work…

UH!W strips that are attached over the Darco into the flooring with screws WILL work perfectly..

[JRTJH]

No need to loosen any cables. The cables "suspend the slide box in the sidewall cavity"... Lifting the slide box will effectively "loosen the cables" as you jack the slide...

[ChuckS]

My torn Darco repair made last year on one of my main hydrauilc slide outs.. The repair has worked like a champ. UHMW will never wear out

https://youtu.be/EtgzzhXodlk

[JRTJH]

If you apply ANY kind of tape over that Darco and then the tape rolls on a FIXED wear bar you will then have a bigger mess that you start with..

UHMW tape over a FIXED wear bar will not work…

UH!W strips that are attached over the Darco into the flooring with screws WILL work perfectly..

I agree. Any "thin adhesive backed tape" is only as good as the adhesive and the "resistance to crumpling" of the material being stuck to the DARCO. A "thick UHMW strip" will resist crumpling much better than a thin UHMW strip. Then, if you've ever sprayed silicone or "dry lube spray" on the underside of the slide DARCO, how effective will the adhesive on the tape be at holding firmly on the DARCO.

Amazon has some 1/8" UHMW strips that are 4"x48". They also have some 1/4" UHMW strips the same size. I'd forgo the "adhesive UHMW tape for a more substantial "friction surface" and install it "permanently" with screws that are countersunk in the UHMW material. That "permanent" installation will be far superior to relying on an adhesive to hold a thin sheet of material on a questionable DARCO surface as it slides 800-1000 pounds of "slide box" over a "scratched up wear bar"....

[sourdough]

I would just add in addition to the previous posts; the uhmw "tape" will cause problems IMO. I don't know how it could be prevented unless it is thick. I've used 1/8" uhmw, both strips and sheets, and they do not bend, flex etc. They are great to run over a wear bar and do not flex, crumple, bend etc. like I'm afraid the tape will do. You can even get it in 1/4" but I've never seen the need for it as the stuff is very stout.

You said the darco is beginning to fray because of screw heads......what screw heads and where? If you have screws tearing up the darco they need to be fixed and not covered over with uhmw, you will still have a problem.

A detailed description of your problem and what's causing it would benefit everyone so they could give you the best solutions possible. I'm afraid uhmw tape isn't going to be it.

[CampNBrew2]

Thanks all for the valid points here. My thoughts were that 45" of my ~72" slide would be covered by the UHMW tape (5ea x 9" strips) and this should be slippery enough to prevent binding. But as you say I would be relying solely on tape adhesion and if it did let go would create a sticky mess. Plus I am near Sacramento and we have very hot summers. I have seen plenty of adhesive products turn to goo in the 100F+ temps.

There are 3 large screws under each end of the slide (#3 Philips drive, flat head screws, countersunk into the slide floor). One screw was too close to the edge and overdriven at the factory thus the edge of the screw is protruding slightly.

The others have very slightly loosened over time, and the Darco is beginning to fray at these screw heads. It did make them easy to find and I tightened them all maybe 1/16-1/8 turn back to tight. I assume these are the screws holding the wall framing to the floor.

I see that people are using 3/4" screws to secure these UHMW skids. This makes me feel better as I thought the flooring was thinner and was nervous about screwing to it.

[JRTJH]

Chris,

Another point to consider is that the UHMW "tape" adhesive isn't being "stuck on anything of substance"... If it was adhered to the slide floor, it might stand a chance. In reality, it's stuck to a "thin polyethelyne tarp" that's stapled to the bottom of the slide floor. On some trailers, the DARCO is glued to the floor, on other's it's just "laid there and held in place by the side molding strips"... Either way, the UHMW tape is only as good as the DARCO it's stuck to.

So, putting tape on DARCO is a lot like putting ice cream on a hot sidewalk... Before long, all you'll have left is the melted chocolate chips and a gooey mess.

[sourdough]

Thanks all for the valid points here. My thoughts were that 45" of my ~72" slide would be covered by the UHMW tape (5ea x 9" strips) and this should be slippery enough to prevent binding. But as you say I would be relying solely on tape adhesion and if it did let go would create a sticky mess. Plus I am near Sacramento and we have very hot summers. I have seen plenty of adhesive products turn to goo in the 100F+ temps.

There are 3 large screws under each end of the slide (#3 Philips drive, flat head screws, countersunk into the slide floor). One screw was too close to the edge and overdriven at the factory thus the edge of the screw is protruding slightly.

The others have very slightly loosened over time, and the Darco is beginning to fray at these screw heads. It did make them easy to find and I tightened them all maybe 1/16-1/8 turn back to tight. I assume these are the screws holding the wall framing to the floor.

I see that people are using 3/4" screws to secure these UHMW skids. This makes me feel better as I thought the flooring was thinner and was nervous about screwing to it.


The above is what will happen I'm afraid. Once it starts getting "sticky" it's going to stick to the wear bar as much as the back of the uhmw tape - then the real fun begins because I have no idea how you would get it off the wear bar without removing (or hyper extending) the slide to pull the wear bar and either replace it or give it a thorough scrubbing down.

I've used uhmw under darco slides on 2 trailers, both had the darco glued to the bottom of the slides but I've seen some where the darco just "billows" under there. None of those situations are ideal for adhesive to work. On one trailer we used a combination of screws and adhesive with 12" wide strips (3). The screws were outside the wear bar when the slide was retracted and an adhesive was used on the rest (sikaflex??). The darco was adhered well to the bottom of the slide. Once the strips were in place the slide was ran in and out maybe 1/2 dozen times a day to seat the adhesive and let it cure (about 10 days). The outside edges where the darco was frayed was covered with black sealant so water could not seep back in under the darco. After installation it worked perfectly for the next 5 years until I traded it. On this one I had them cover the entire bottoms of the slides with solid uhmw at the first sign of fraying on the edges. All edges and ends were heated and formed to roll over the edges then screwed sealed. They have given no problem either (crossing fingers).

[CoastieNorton]

Vet4jdc: Which BAL roller did you use? 1/2 or 3/4 inch? What size wear bar do you have? Looks like you did what I am contemplating doing for my wear bar issue that has just "rubbed me" the wrong way. I have a LCI through frame slide out with 1/2-inch wear bar that has crushed on the ends and is tearing up my Dayco exterior slide out liner. I am having a heck of a time locating the 1/2-inch roller. Any help or assistance would be greatly appreciated.

Coastie