No spare

[sleeepr]

New '17 Springdale Summerland TT, awaiting maiden run. Did not come with spare tire. How critical is it to get one, and where does one stow it?

[JRTJH]

Most entry level RV's don't come equipped with a spare tire/tire rack. Some of them do offer a spare as part of an optional equipment package. Whether it's OEM or optional, it's a "no brainer" that you need one. If I were you, I'd take the opportunity that you have and buy a wheel for $30 and put a "quality spare" on it. By "quality spare" I mean a Maxxis or Carlisle in the same size as your trailer tires. You might consider upgrading from a load range C to a D or from D to a E rating. That will give you some "extra margin" in capacity over the OEM tires.

You might also consider upgrading the tires that came on your trailer as well. If you read through this section on the forum (Tires, Tires, Tires) you'll see that a large number of people have had problems with the "Chinese tires" that are OEM on almost every Keystone trailer.

Whether you choose to replace the OEM tires, a spare is, by all accounts, a "must have" for any RV. Don't forget to pack a jack and lug wrench in your trailer or the spare won't be "usable" if you do need it. And, NO, most tow vehicle jacks and lug wrenches won't fit the trailer, so take that into consideration......

[NorskeBob]

Most entry level RV's don't come equipped with a spare tire/tire rack. Some of them do offer a spare as part of an optional equipment package. Whether it's OEM or optional, it's a "no brainer" that you need one. If I were you, I'd take the opportunity that you have and buy a wheel for $30 and put a "quality spare" on it. By "quality spare" I mean a Maxxis or Carlisle in the same size as your trailer tires. You might consider upgrading from a load range C to a D or from D to a E rating. That will give you some "extra margin" in capacity over the OEM tires.

You might also consider upgrading the tires that came on your trailer as well. If you read through this section on the forum (Tires, Tires, Tires) you'll see that a large number of people have had problems with the "Chinese tires" that are OEM on almost every Keystone trailer.

Whether you choose to replace the OEM tires, a spare is, by all accounts, a "must have" for any RV. Don't forget to pack a jack and lug wrench in your trailer or the spare won't be "usable" if you do need it. And, NO, most tow vehicle jacks and lug wrenches won't fit the trailer, so take that into consideration......


I would get a breaker bar too. Fellow camper had to use my breaker bar to get the lug nuts loose. Then my torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts after installing the spare.

Get a socket to fit the lug nuts and a socket extension (6" or so) to give you some room when tightening the lug nuts.

[sleeepr]

Would an 18v cordless impact wrench do the breaker bar trick? And, do you usually jack up from a point on the axle, or frame?

[canesfan]

Would an 18v cordless impact wrench do the breaker bar trick? And, do you usually jack up from a point on the axle, or frame?

I've had 2 wheels removed with cordless impact wrenches, not sure what voltages they were though since they weren't mine.

[66joej]

Would an 18v cordless impact wrench do the breaker bar trick? And, do you usually jack up from a point on the axle, or frame?

I have seen and used some pretty gutless portable impacts. Best bet is as mentioned a 1/2" breaker bar, extension and thin wall socket or thicker wall if it fits on the lug nut recess. As far as jacking I place a bottle jack under the spring perch at the axle u-bolt. Works for me. And a 1/2" drive torque wrench is handy for correct tightening. I guess not worth mentioning but loosen lug nuts before raising wheel off the ground.

[sourdough]

A cordless impact wrench can be nice, but, you have to be careful about what you get. As 66joej said, there are lots of them that don't generate much torque. The ones that do cost a pretty penny. If you tighten with one I would be sure and have a torque wrench to finish them. Plus, some of the better cordless impact wrenches don't have much torque when removing lug nuts so a breaker bar can be handy. Or, as many of us do, carry one of all of the above:).

[sleeepr]

I always carry my torque wrench in the tow vehicle, much easier to change with it versus a tire iron. I've never had a problem busting nuts loose with it, plenty of leverage, but will look for a bar as well. Now gotta find a decent jack.

[sourdough]

I always carry my torque wrench in the tow vehicle, much easier to change with it versus a tire iron. I've never had a problem busting nuts loose with it, plenty of leverage, but will look for a bar as well. Now gotta find a decent jack.

If my wheels are torqued properly with a torque wrench I never have a problem removing or installing the lug nuts with a torque wrench. The only time I ever had an issue is when a dealership installed new tires and must have used an impact wrench on FULL force for 2 minutes per nut. They were really tight. I now leave explicit instructions to torque...not twist them off.

[GT22]

Torque wrenches are designed to tighten only. Using them to loosen can throw off the calibration, so the actual torque when tightening may be off. Some times far more than you might think.

[NorskeBob]

Torque wrenches are designed to tighten only. Using them to loosen can throw off the calibration, so the actual torque when tightening may be off. Some times far more than you might think.

X2

Tighten fasteners in two steps—first to half torque and then to final torque.

After being used, adjustable click wrenches should be turned back to minimum scale value. This helps to preserve the springs and ensures a longer product life cycle with high precision.

Never use your torque wrench as a breaker bar—that’ll damage the torque mechanism.

Carry it with kid gloves—a single fall can knock the accuracy off by as much as 30 percent. If you do drop it, you should get it re-calibrated before using it again.

[66joej]

Torque wrenches are designed to tighten only. Using them to loosen can throw off the calibration, so the actual torque when tightening may be off. Some times far more than you might think.

Have been a red seal mechanic for going on 60 years and always wondered about guys that used a torque wrench as a breaker bar. Probably wondered why bolts were twisting off when torquing back on.:rolleyes:

[sourdough]

Sorry, I misspoke. I use a breaker bar/impact wrench to pull lug nuts....just kinda rolled it all into one with the term torque wrench.

[Javi]

Have been a red seal mechanic for going on 60 years and always wondered about guys that used a torque wrench as a breaker bar. Probably wondered why bolts were twisting off when torquing back on.:rolleyes:

Never had the need to use a torque wrench to loosen a bolt... but I have torqued thousands of left handed bolts with a torque wrench.... there is nothing about a torque wrench that is directional... the only thing that would damage the wrench is breaking the bolt without setting the wrench to a setting above the required number...

[66joej]

the only thing that would damage the wrench is breaking the bolt without setting the wrench to a setting below the required number...

I was referring to the use of 0 pounds of torque and using as a breaker bar. You may be right there is no damage. I guess I am anal about a tool that cost me half a day's wages used that way. Of course I'm talking about "back in the day".

[JRTJH]

Everyone has their own ideas about torque wrench use. I was taught to never use a torque wrench to loosen nuts and have always "just accepted" that as the right way to use the tool. I've never considered whether it's "acceptable" or "tool abuse" to use it to loosen nuts whether it's set at a higher torque or not. I also have used both beam style and adjustable "break type" wrenches to torque left and right threaded nuts. For me, no matter the directions of torque, once the setting is reached, the wrench indicates it either with a dial reading or by "clicking". That's the limit for that wrench at that setting. I don't suppose it would "hurt the wrench" to set it higher than the anticipated "break away" and use it to loosen a nut, but that's always been a "no-no" everywhere I've used wrenches, so I also don't do it at home.
Anyway, since I was curious, I just went to Harbor Freight.com and downloaded the owner's manual for their 1/2" torque wrench. (I know, I know, cheap tools, but....) The first red statement I found "comical" and the others pertain to this thread.

Here's what their owner's manual says:
1. The warnings, cautions, and instructions in this instruction manual cannot cover all possible conditions and situations that may occur. It must be understood by the operator that common sense and caution are factors which cannot be built into this product, but must be supplied by the operator.
2. Wear ANSI-approved safety goggles during use.
3. Do not use for loosening fasteners.
4. Use only within rated torque range.
5. Use as intended only. Do not use as hammer or pry bar.
6. Do not use handle extension to increase force. Do not use as a breaker bar.
7. Do not use a Torque Wrench that has been dropped. Have it tested before putting back into use.
8. Have the Torque Wrench calibrated and serviced only by a qualified technician.
9. Inspect before every use; do not use if damaged or if parts are loose.
10. Keep away from children.
11. Use only sockets with the correct drive and rated to at least the
torque that will be applied to it.

[Outback 325BH]

The ONLY safe way to use a torque wrench to loosen fasteners would be to increase the setting (assuming a click-type) beyond the torque of the fastener. Once a torque wrench has "clicked" you don't want to keep pushing it harder. Setting the torque wrench beyond the torque setting will ensure you never "click" while loosening the fastener.

For "old-school" torque wrenches, I would not attempt it.

Actually, I would not attempt to use a torque wrench for anything other than torquing (tightening).


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[bsmith0404]

Back to the OPs question, do you need a spare? ABSOLUTELY! I carry 2. Check out the BAL Hide-a-spare rack system. They are fairly cheap and easy to install as well.

[Tbos]

I agree. Spares are a definite needed item. I now have two. One rides in the bed of the truck.

Walmart and Tractor Supply Company often have standard steel trailer wheels in stock. Just make sure it's the same size as your OEM wheels.


2016 Passport GT 2810BHS, 2016 F350 CC DRW

[Dave W]

Get a spare before your first trip. A bumper bracket may work - but make sure that it will accommodate the bouncing (dynamic) weight of that tire and wheel. Also, if you go the underbelly mount route(BAL or Lippert), make sure your trailer has enough ground clearance - our 5er dragged the spare though I've raised the RV a couple inches since so may not now but I still wont put it back underneath as unseen = forgotten and uncared for IMO. As far as tires - many threads here on quality, but China Bomb's Tow Max or similar usually aren't a good choice.

[Outback 325BH]

I made my own after upgrading tires and was not sure the factory one would support the increased weight.

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[sleeepr]

That's pretty sweet, but way out of my range of tools and talent. For now, will tote the spare in the tow vehicle, and take some time to figure out the best fix for my purposes. Does anyone have any suggestions on a jack?

[bsmith0404]

That's pretty sweet, but way out of my range of tools and talent. For now, will tote the spare in the tow vehicle, and take some time to figure out the best fix for my purposes. Does anyone have any suggestions on a jack?

Walmart sells a bottle jack in a carry case. I think it's a 20 ton. has good height and will definitely raise any of our trailers. I have a 6" block that I put under mine and I can raise the 5er at the frame rail.

[Dave W]

That's pretty sweet, but way out of my range of tools and talent. For now, will tote the spare in the tow vehicle, and take some time to figure out the best fix for my purposes. Does anyone have any suggestions on a jack?


If your TV is a pickup, that may just be the best place for a spare. I've been doing that for years, convenient and, best yet, not forgotten when it's time to do a pressure or condition check. Additionally, there is no 30-50 pound dead weight hanging off any towable's puny bumper. I use a piece of hardened chain and a hard to cut Master padlock to hope it wont grow legs

[66joej]

I made my own after upgrading tires and was not sure the factory one would support the increased weight.

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Very nice job. How is the tire/wheel assembly attached to the bracket? Looked long and hard but I can't figure it out. Thanks

[Outback 325BH]

Very nice job. How is the tire/wheel assembly attached to the bracket? Looked long and hard but I can't figure it out. Thanks


Sorry, I left that part out by mistake. The easiest way to have a wheel mount, that was not the cheap factory two-stud-and-a-strap, was to use an inexpensive hub-and-spindle.

Here is a pic without the cap and cover (which I did install but have no pic).

Etrailer had a hub, spindle, bearings and seal for like $30. It is the smallest hub for 6-lug wheels (no brakes). Served my purpose...

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[NorskeBob]

Nice mod - would have never thought of using a spindle.

[GMcKenzie]

If your TV is a pickup, that may just be the best place for a spare. I've been doing that for years, convenient and, best yet, not forgotten when it's time to do a pressure or condition check. Additionally, there is no 30-50 pound dead weight hanging off any towable's puny bumper. I use a piece of hardened chain and a hard to cut Master padlock to hope it wont grow legs

My spare fits my boat and TT, so in the back of the pickup it goes. Doesn't matter if I'm camping or fishing (with this boat I don't do both at the same time) I have my spare.

[Outback 325BH]

Nice mod - would have never thought of using a spindle.



I'm getting ready to weld a tee on top of it. The kids' bunkhouse emergency escape window is right above the spare tire. Climbing out with that tire being able to spin would be a little difficult. I can fabricate a handle real easy.


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[sleeepr]

Got the spare. Local chain tire shop, but very customer oriented when it comes to safety and quality. Bumped up to 10 ply Load Range E. Now looking for breaker bar. Thanks all.

[Bolo4u]

Nice mod - would have never thought of using a spindle.


Great job on the spindle. ^^^ Not to hijack, but I've seen off-roaders (mainly Jeepers) use this trick on their spare tires. They install a spindle, hub, brake assembly (sometimes) and locking hub, in the event they smack a rock while wheeling.

I'm going to remount my spare, and am considering fabricating a bit heavier duty mounting bracket and relocating it behind the bumper (so it's between the coach and bumper) and letting the spare rest on top of the bumper. I'm guessing less twisting torque and added clearance. We'll see.

On the trip home, after picking it up at the dealer, it dragged on the road as I entered my driveway and twisted the bracket, but luckily not the bumper.


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[sourdough]

Got the spare. Local chain tire shop, but very customer oriented when it comes to safety and quality. Bumped up to 10 ply Load Range E. Now looking for breaker bar. Thanks all.


I've got a breaker bar with various sockets, up to something like 1 5/16 or so, in a carry box. It has Husky on it so guess I got it at Home Depot? It's worked fine.

[bsmith0404]

Got the spare. Local chain tire shop, but very customer oriented when it comes to safety and quality. Bumped up to 10 ply Load Range E. Now looking for breaker bar. Thanks all.

This is a very good wrench, compact and easy to store under the seat and has all of the sizes you need.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Gorilla-Automotive-1721-Power-Wrench-Standard-Lug-Wrench,83677.html?sku=6341721&utm_medium=CSEGoogle&utm_source=CSE&utm_campaign=CSEGOOGLE&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2arLpP6A1AIVEVgNCh2kBA5_EAQYAiAB EgLxB_D_BwE

[JRTJH]

A lot of people don't like Harbor Freight tools, but I'd say most of those people will borrow some of my HF stuff when they're stuck in a jam... So: HF has a 25" breaker bar that normally lists for $12.99 and there's often a coupon to buy it for $9.99. I've had one in my trailer for 15 years now and it's never broken, is surprisingly durable and has been used with a 6' section of "fence post pipe", a 1/2 to 3/4 adapter and a 2" socket to really crank on a stuck nut on a tractor implement. I bent the handle on the breaker bar and the pipe, but the roll pin/socket head on the breaker bar held and I got the nut off the box blade.

That said, for 10 bucks, you might consider this: https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-drive-25-in-breaker-bar-60819.html

ADDED: After posting this, I opened an email from HF and there's a coupon in the email for this wrench for $8.99. So, "for 9 bucks......."