Ordering a set of Bilstein 5100's

[msubobcats]

It shows a 5100 set of shocks and then what looks like gas shocks. What would the difference actually be, other the the gas look just a bit more expensive.
The "basic" 5100 fronts at $68 and change each and the rears are $82 and change. Ordering through Amazon Prime. Is there any actual advantage to the gas shocks. Off memory the gas shocks would be about $350.
Thanks for any info...

Saw on rv.net that the 5100 is for a 0" to 2" lift and the 4600 is for a stock no lift. And the 4600 set is $282 and change on Prime...

[Eric91Z]

I think there are two versions of the 5100: the standard, shock/strut only. And then the ones that are adjustable struts for the front allowing for like 1" - 3" adjustability for front end level.

That is only difference I know of for 5100's.


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[Desert185]

You want the 5100, 0-2" lift. They come longer for lifted vehicles. They are also a gas shock.

The 4600 is a different version without the zinc plating of the 5100. For that reason, I think the 5100 with the zinc plating is the way to go, because the body won't rust over time with rock nicks and road salt.

[msubobcats]

And do I need to change the steering damper?

[bsmith0404]

The steering damper/stabilizer is an often overlooked item these days, especially with rack an pinion systems. My guess is your truck still has the OE stabilizer so it's only 15 years old. Do you need to change it? Let me just say the manufacturers install them for a reason, to help control wheel wobble/shimmy. I doubt your current one is doing anything more than adding weight to your truck. Yes, change it and get the benefit of why it's there.

[NorskeBob]

Put Bilstein Shocks on all of my trucks (HD yellow units ). 2004 (2500 HD) and 2005 (3500HD) - as soon as I took delivery. 2011 at 20,000 miles. OEM shocks on the 2004 and 2005 were junk. The shocks on the 2011 were better.

You'll be glad you put them on.

On my 2011 I added a steering stabilizer too.

Got the shocks at http://www.kennedydiesel.com.

[Desert185]

And do I need to change the steering damper?

Does it wobble or shimmy? Is it leaking? No? Don't change. They last a surprisingly long time. I keep wondering sbout mine, but no symptoms of failure, yet.

Put the money on a Mag-Hytec rear diff cover. Pretty and practical (especially if you do your own work).

[Frank G]

And do I need to change the steering damper?

I purchased my 2013 with 51K on it, hated the steering, (it could not find or keep center) out of desperation I ordered and installed the Bilstein steering damper. Best thing I ever did. At 62K ready to put there shocks on.

[larry337]

I've had 5100 and 4600. The 5100's are worth the extra money. You'll notice the difference immediately. They will work on a stock truck or a 2 inch lift.

[rhagfo]

I have been running Bil's 5100 on a stock height 2001 Ram 2500! They are a great investment, been on since 12/12 at 255,314 miles, currently at 299,150 miles still working great.
We tow a 2005 Keystone Copper Canyon 293 FWSLS at about 11,500#, they work great, I usually get 1.5 bounces and extreme bridge transitions, really controls the normal bumps.

[msubobcats]

Well, after all the great info and going back and forth over the choice I ordered a set of 5100's on Monday from Amazon. Order on Monday and get the front set of shocks yesterday on Tuesday and the rear set today. Thought that was incredible service. So tomorrow I will be putting on the shocks...
At the same time I ordered a telescoping lug wrench with 2 sockets, 4 sizes, reversible... VERY heavy duty... That also came today.
I want to thank everyone for all the info. Very appreciated...

[sourdough]

Post back after you try them out and let us know your thoughts.

I've still got the OEM units on my Ram and I've got 49,400 on it. Not giving me any problems, but, since we decided not to get a 5th wheel and new truck, I'm thinking I want to put new shocks on this one.

[Desert185]

Yeah, let us know. I can't imagine you being disappointed in the 5100's.

[msubobcats]

Well, yesterday I replaced the OEM shocks. Pretty bad shape. Quite a bit of leakage which is not surprising.
The removal was not fun. Front shock were not real bad but the upper nut was a learning process. Tried channel locks on the shaft, not real successful the I called my mechanic. He said the shaft could be a inner he or notched for a wrench... BINGO, a 1/4 incher. Rust had moved in a bit but they broke loose with some lubricant. Went on easy.
The left rear was a %#! €&*%/+¥. The upper bolt/nut are above the axle and close to the frame so a real challenge.. Could not get any leverage and it was a very slow process and my shoulder is reminding me this morning. Went on a little easier. The right rear was simpler because it was in front of the axle.
Took it out this morning for a ride. Yep, still a 3/4 ton but definitely a better ride. I had not realized the ride had gotten "soft"...
Hooked up to the 5th Wheel this morning to move it forward a foot and I could see no squat at all. Maybe I just missed it but was very surprised and impressed. Was judging it on the OEMS and they would give up about 2 or so inches. Next test will be our next outing with the 5th Wheel.
Yep, pretty happy with the whole thing. And I have a couple of sweet looking decals on the back window now...