Back rear panel delaminating 24RKSWE Cougar

[Ta-kid]

Has anybody have a picture of the rear of 2014 Cougar 24RKSWE Frame structure?Need to repair back surface which has delaminated from whatever is behind the skin.I know there is a aluminum structure behind there and need to know where the vertical uprights are.Thinking of using a moulding that can screw on to support skin tight against frame once I have reglued also for support.
This is the only area I have the issue and all seams are good.Proably the previous owner had it ,the back end,in hot sun?..Bought this unit used.Not really causing any issues yet but would like to repair myself.Been watching some repair Video,s on u tube for some education.

[Ta-kid]

Here are some pics.Not sure if you can see the issue but it's there

[JRTJH]

That is not delamination, it's "oil-canning" and is normal. The rear wall is a "free hanging" wall. That means it's only attached to the underlaying aluminum structure where components are attached. On your specific trailer, from looking at the picture you posted, the window, refrigerator lower vent, tail lights, running lights, top molding, side moldings and bottom molding are the only places where the rear skin is attached. When the sun hits your rear fiberglass, it expands with the heat and "bows". When that structure cools, it shrinks and isn't as noticeable. During the summer, it will never shrink as much as it will during winter's "sub-zero" temperatures.

What you see is perfectly normal, nothing to worry about. If you do remove the molding, tighten the skin and reapply the moldings, it may look 'better' this summer, but when colder temps arrive in the fall/winter and the skin shrinks even more, it may pull the skin out of the moldings causing a significant issue.

I'd leave it alone, talk to your dealer if you're still in warranty and see what he thinks. That way, it's documented in the event an issue arises in the future. I'd suppose that about half of Keystone's trailers produced in the last 10 years have the same problem as yours, some noticeable (as yours is) and most not as noticeable, but if you look closely, it's there, just not as pronounced.

Here are two pictures of the rear wall before insulation is hand packed into the cavities and after the rear wall is hung, but not yet trimmed to fit.

[Ta-kid]

Well,then I will not worry about it too much then.Makes sense.I did a google search after you posted and it appears other manufactures use the same method.I guess I do not want to do too much drilling in the back panel.

[ScotnBev]

I was concerned about the same thing. Glad to know it's normal. Does any one know why the back wall is constructed this way while the side walls are a lamented unit?

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk

[JRTJH]

If you consider that access to the "inside lower mounting points as well as both side mounting points, the only way to "screw the trailer together from the inside" is to have access to the framework, so if the rear wall were constructed as a "finished component" there'd be no cost effective and easy way to access the frame to attach it in place. The construction also provides a means to allow for access to the tail light wiring, running light wiring and, for many (not all) trailers, access to the shore power connector/cubby hole. Also,
until just very recently, ALL roof ladders were installed on the rear wall. Even now, all "permanently mounted" roof ladders are mounted on the rear wall. Any flexing of the wall during use would tend to crack/break the foam if the wall were constructed the same as the side walls.

While these aren't the only considerations, they should provide some reasons why the back wall is constructed as it is.

[JimQ]

That's why this site is so awesome. People like John!! Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with us and pointing us in the right direction on things!

[geobet]

I had the very same issue with my Montana High Country. Called the dealer and had them check every HC on the lot. All were the same. Called Keystone and they said this is absolutely normal - no problems and no worries. Whewww!

[Charby]

I was experiencing the same thing this year, and after seeing the front cap starting to fade, I was losing confidence in this unit. I could not see any seal issue on the roof joint. I put a bead of self leveling caulking anyway. This site saved me a sleepless night :)

[srvnt]

Maybe Keystone could add some adhesive between the frame and luan, but that would take a quart of glue, 10 minutes, and cost an extra $7.99 to your $30,000 trailer.

[pkemmerlin]

Is that the same process for the ends of the slide outs.