No battery power now - help!

[Justus2]

Our 2014 Alpine 3010RE is parked year-round.

Over the winter we discovered there was no power to our pedestal so the park repaired that, but the end result of that a blown automatic transfer relay switch (model PD52p). Battery died due to no charge for a couple months, so we've got a brand new battery and we just replaced the relay switch over the weekend.

My husband went up today and discovered we now have electricity to the outlets but no battery power. This unit is wired for a generator (from the factory), but there is no generator in the unit.

What else could be wrong?
What else do we need to look at? He tried the battery connect/disconnect switch but that did not make a difference. Is it just a matter of letting the battery charge with the new switch and shore power?

Thanks for listening....

[JRTJH]

I would take a look at the reverse polarity fuses on the converter/charger. They are the 40 amp fuses (2 of them) that protect the converter from any reverse polarity (usually from hooking up the battery "backwards". With no power, a discharged battery (probably frozen) and the electrical work that has been done, I'd suspect those fuses. They are located on the converter charger, adjacent to, but not in the vertical DC fuse panel.

[Justus2]

Thanks for the advice.

I need a little more help locating where these two 40 amp fuses might be. When I read your response to my husband he immediately thought they were the fuse panel, but you clearly stated not the vertical DC fuse panel. Where should we look for these?

That box we installed was a converter, wasn't it? Are you saying they are on that box?

Or is there something close to that box, or the fuse panel that you are referring to? The box was installed in the front storage compartment, is there something else up front or near the battery box we should be looking for?

Thank you for all your help. This forum is like having your own personal repair team. I don't know what we'd do without it.

[chuckster57]

Reverse polarity fuses are usually on the DC fuse panel. Won't be in the row of fuses but off to the side.

If you have a converter that plugs into the breaker panel (usually on the back side) then it will have 2 fuses in it on the back where the charging leads hook to.

[BuxCamper]

Assuming you have the WFCO converter the battery fuses are there. The only 40 amp fuses and orange IIRC. They are by themselves and not in the stack of other 12V fuses.

-- Mark

[frankyb01]

I have a 2011 alpine 3450rl. My converter is in the space behind the fuse/circuit breaker panel. You actually have to remove the entire panel to gain access to it. The reverse polarity fuses are plugged into the back of the converter. The transfer switch you had installed is for the generator, even though you don't have one installed. All it does is determine which source of A/C voltage enters the trailer, either generator of shore power. That switch has nothing to do with DC voltage. Since you had an issue with shore power at the pedestal I would suspect the fuses on the converter as others have said. In a worse case senario the converter itself may be fryed. With an issue at the pedestal there is no telling what other damage may have happened.

[ChuckS]

Assuming your 2014 Alpine is stock it has the Chang 75 amp converter installed. There are two fuses separate on the converter

http://www.americanrvcompany.com/WFCO-WF9875-WF-9875-75-Amp-RV-Trailer-Deckmount-Converter-Charger-Camper-Trailer-RV?gclid=CMn0jtDInNMCFRKSfgodOAYM9w




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[notanlines]

Sarah, you might also find that access is easier through the basement. I'm only familiar with Raptors and Montanas but keep that in mind when your search starts. Keep us informed of your progress.

[PARAPTOR]

That box that they replaced in that front compartment wall near where a generator would go is the transfer switch and as stated it has nothing to do with the 12 VDC circuits. It basically choices power from the shore power cable or the generator when running and supplying power. Generator has priority. I assume you had no EMS and the transfer switch was taken out. If you have no intention of adding a generator the transfer switch could have been replaced with a junction box connecting the shore cable directly to the cable going tp our power distribution panel

now that you have 110 VAc to the rig every thing in that rig requiring 110 VAc should be working are they?? check all 110 Vac circuit breakers . Make sure converter is on. idf converter is working you should have 12 VDC lights, etc. Do You ?? If not converter is now outputting 12 VDC

ADDED: converter in my guess is behind the lower distribution Panel on the floor in the Basement area access is through the storage area by removing the wall separating the storage area and basement.

ADDED: even with those reverse polarity fuses blown converter should be powering the rig but will have know connection to the battery

[Desert185]

And then to preclude this from happening again, isolate. For longer storage periods, take the battery(s) home and connect to a battery tender.

Isolation can be a good thing. Exposure to a multitude of elements often results in negatives. It can take a village for bad things to happen. :D

[JRTJH]

If your trailer has a "two part" system, one part is the circuit breakers and the DC fuses with a "stand alone converter" then the fuses will be on the converter adjacent to the DC power connections as seen in these pictures. If your trailer has a "one part" system, then the converter is physically installed on the back of the power panel and the reverse polarity fuses are located adjacent to the vertical DC fuse panel (but not a part of that vertical stack of fuses) as I said in my first post. You can see the reverse polarity fuses on that type in these pictures as well.

Most 30 amp trailers use the "one part" system and most 50 amp trailers use the "two part" system. That said, both kinds are available in 30 and 50 amp service, so there are always exceptions to the rule.....

GOOD LUCK !!!!

ADDED: If your trailer has a "two part" system, your power distribution panel will look something like the bottom picture with the DC fuses "vertical" (no reverse polarity fuses on this unit) and the AC circuit breakers along the top in a horizontal row. (I hope this helps make it clearer where to look for the reverse polarity fuses)...

[ChuckS]

I own the same year and model Alpine as you do. It is a two part system and the picture I posted earlier is what your converter looks like unless it has already been replaced. It is behind the stair well accessible via the basement


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[ChuckS]

Well I wonder if the fella ever got power back on.


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[PbMax1972]

I have a 2016 Cougar 341 RKI fifth wheel. I also seem to have had my power converter quit charging the battery. Problem finding where the converter is. Breaker/fuse panel is below the refrigerator, right side and LP detector is 18" or so left of the panel. Is my converter, a WFCO, probably behind the panel? Battery was left in the fifth wheel this winter (Nebraska). It's not bulged but I did have to add a little water (distilled) to it. Battery will charge from stand-alone charger and tests ok with battery tester. Trying to find converter. From other posts I'm assuming it may be behind the panel?

[PARAPTOR]

I have a 2016 Cougar 341 RKI fifth wheel. I also seem to have had my power converter quit charging the battery. Problem finding where the converter is. Breaker/fuse panel is below the refrigerator, right side and LP detector is 18" or so left of the panel. Is my converter, a WFCO, probably behind the panel? Battery was left in the fifth wheel this winter (Nebraska). It's not bulged but I did have to add a little water (distilled) to it. Battery will charge from stand-alone charger and tests ok with battery tester. Trying to find converter. From other posts I'm assuming it may be behind the panel?

If your rig was a factory installed battery disconnect switch, make sure that the switch is in the position to have the battery connected to the converter

ADDED: in most 5ers that converter is in the basement behind the power distribution panel. will have to take wall down separating storage area and basement

[PbMax1972]

If your rig was a factory installed battery disconnect switch, make sure that the switch is in the position to have the battery connected to the converter



It does have the factory installed disconnect switch and is in the on position. As long as I keep the battery charged with a battery charger it runs DC things and shows the charge on the control panel. Battery discharges with DC use, hooked to shore power, if taken off external charger.



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[PARAPTOR]

It does have the factory installed disconnect switch and is in the on position. As long as I keep the battery charged with a battery charger it runs DC things and shows the charge on the control panel. Battery discharges with DC use, hooked to shore power, if taken off external charger.



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Not sure you mentioned if converter is outputting anything, ie use that disconnect switch to disconnect battery. Connected to shore power and converter 110 VAC breaker on see if that converter will power your rig 12VDC circuits like lights?

ADDED: if that is fine may have to get to the converter and check the reverse polarity fuses on the converter. maybe while checking the batteries somehow \battery leads got reversed even momentarily

[PbMax1972]

Not sure you mentioned if converter is outputting anything, ie use that disconnect switch to disconnect battery. Connected to shore power and converter 110 VAC breaker on see if that converter will power your rig 12VDC circuits like lights?



If I take what you are saying, the converter should run 12 VDC lights with battery disconnect in off position? Correct? Haven't tried that yet.


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[PbMax1972]

If I take what you are saying, the converter should run 12 VDC lights with battery disconnect in off position? Correct? Haven't tried that yet.


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I turned battery disconnect switch to off. Tried light in storage pass-thru and light on front of trailer next to front compartment and neither came on. They both came on when I turned battery switch back to on. I'm thinking it's something with the converter but not sure where it is at. From other posts I think it's behind the breaker/fuse panel.


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[PARAPTOR]

If I take what you are saying, the converter should run 12 VDC lights with battery disconnect in off position? Correct? Haven't tried that yet.


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Correct but will not charge batteries

[PbMax1972]

Correct but will not charge batteries



Lights don't work with battery switch in off position.


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[PARAPTOR]

I turned battery disconnect switch to off. Tried light in storage pass-thru and light on front of trailer next to front compartment and neither came on. They both came on when I turned battery switch back to on. I'm thinking it's something with the converter but not sure where it is at. From other posts I think it's behind the breaker/fuse panel.


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Battery disconnect to off, ie batteries no longer connected to your power distribution panel so for say lights inside your rig to work power has to come from your converter. Make sure 110V ac breaker labeled converter is on

[PbMax1972]

Battery disconnect to off, ie batteries no longer connected to your power distribution panel so for say lights inside your rig to work power has to come from your converter. Make sure 110V ac breaker labeled converter is on



I checked the breaker the other day with a multi-meter and there is power 118 VAC on the load side of the breaker. I worked for a electrical power company for 42 years before I retired, we just didn't do anything on the DC side.


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[PARAPTOR]

I checked the breaker the other day with a multi-meter and there is power 118 VAC on the load side of the breaker. I worked for a electrical power company for 42 years before I retired, we just didn't do anything on the DC side.


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From what you have told me sounds like that converter powered up is no outputting 12 volts either to the rig or your batteries. Bad converter?? with batteries disconnected I would expect you would hear the fan come on the converter when it powers the power distribution panel. Unless someone else has a suggestion you may have to go in the basement to look at it. If it is bad you are going to have to go back there anyhow

[PbMax1972]

From what you have told me sounds like that converter powered up is no outputting 12 volts either to the rig or your batteries. Bad converter?? with batteries disconnected I would expect you would hear the fan come on the converter when it powers the power distribution panel. Unless someone else has a suggestion you may have to go in the basement to look at it. If it is bad you are going to have to go back there anyhow



I had the basement open from the back of the storage compartment to get to the water heater and water pump when I winterized the water system. Converter is not there. From other posts I wonder if it's behind the distribution panel under the refrigerator. I haven't pulled that yet to try to find it.


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[PbMax1972]

I had the basement open from the back of the storage compartment to get to the water heater and water pump when I winterized the water system. Converter is not there. From other posts I wonder if it's behind the distribution panel under the refrigerator. I haven't pulled that yet to try to find it.


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My unit has a polar package and the underbelly is enclosed and heated.


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[Javi]

My unit has a polar package and the underbelly is enclosed and heated.


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If that is a 30amp trailer, it is very possible that the converter is part of the power panel...

[PbMax1972]

If that is a 30amp trailer, it is very possible that the converter is part of the power panel...



It's a 50 amp and I have the manual for the converter and the power panel. The converter is a WFCO ULTRA III Deckmount. WF-9800 series. I just haven't found it...yet.. I think after lunch here I am going to go power everything down and take a look behind the distribution panel. I hope there is slack enough in the wiring I can lay it down or pull it out some and check.


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[PARAPTOR]

Mine is a 100 Amp Converter, pretty large in size and located in basement about 4-5 feet away from power distribution panel on street side. Hard to miss and at least mine too big to be part of the power distribution panel. These converters actually plug into a 11o VAC outlet on the power distribution panel

[PbMax1972]

Mine is a 100 Amp Converter, pretty large in size and located in basement about 4-5 feet away from power distribution panel on street side. Hard to miss and at least mine too big to be part of the power distribution panel. These converters actually plug into a 11o VAC outlet on the power distribution panel



Then I'm betting I'm going to have to pull the panel and check behind it. Make it's there or not.


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[Javi]

Then I'm betting I'm going to have to pull the panel and check behind it. Make it's there or not.


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Mine is about 6" x 5" x 10" and behind the power distribution center in the basement... I'll bet it is behind yours under the fridge..

Before you get to far into it... check the 40amp 12V fuses to see if they're blown...

[PbMax1972]

Mine is about 6" x 5" x 10" and behind the power distribution center in the basement... I'll bet it is behind yours under the fridge..

Before you get to far into it... check the 40amp 12V fuses to see if they're blown...



The camper is less than a year old and the converter is covered under the warranty. I did find it under the fridge behind the distribution panel, under a mass of wires. I think I will let the dealer deal with it. I don't have one to replace it with anyway .


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[Javi]

The camper is less than a year old and the converter is covered under the warranty. I did find it under the fridge behind the distribution panel, under a mass of wires. I think I will let the dealer deal with it. I don't have one to replace it with anyway .


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As a suggestion, while they're in there have them install an EMS system to protect your electrical... that's the best place to install one...

[PbMax1972]

As a suggestion, while they're in there have them install an EMS system to protect your electrical... that's the best place to install one...



That's a good idea. I have both 30 and 50 amp plug ones, the 30 from when we had a travel trailer but not going to say they are top of the line.. more mid range.


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[PbMax1972]

That's a good idea. I have both 30 and 50 amp plug ones, the 30 from when we had a travel trailer but not going to say they are top of the line.. more mid range.


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Thanks for the help and suggestions. Update is: my plan for today was to shut everything down, pull the power distribution panel again and check the fuses. Step one was to turn the battery disconnect to the off position. Step two was to check the battery lights from the control panel. Confusion as it showed there was VDC present. So deduced either a bad battery disconnect or converter started working. Turned the main LED lights on and they did come on. Went to distribution panel and turned off main 50A breakers. Lights went off. Turned breakers back on, lights came back and now I hear fan hum from converter. Went out and closed battery disconnect, opened main breakers and lights stayed on. Might be a loose connection somewhere by the panel but at least know converter isn't toast.


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[BuxCamper]

Or the main breaker was tripped. I find the indication of a tripped breaker to be very subtle, moving just a little out of the engaged position.

[EVMIII]

I have the same camper (2014 Alpine 3010 RE) and had basically the same problem. All 110v applications were working as advertised, no 12v. Problem was the converter and it was replaced under warranty. I watched the guy do the job and could have done it myself if required. As previously mentioned, the converter is located directly behind your fuse panel, but access is through the storage area. He loosened fuse panel so he could reach through and unplug/replug the battery charger. Once unplugged, he removed wires and unit from inside storage panel. He spent more time trying to replug charger in (basically blind). Good luck. FYI, I'm fighting my refrig now, 3rd time it's been back in for this. Overall, really like the camper. Good luck, safe travels.

[PbMax1972]

I have the same camper (2014 Alpine 3010 RE) and had basically the same problem. All 110v applications were working as advertised, no 12v. Problem was the converter and it was replaced under warranty. I watched the guy do the job and could have done it myself if required. As previously mentioned, the converter is located directly behind your fuse panel, but access is through the storage area. He loosened fuse panel so he could reach through and unplug/replug the battery charger. Once unplugged, he removed wires and unit from inside storage panel. He spent more time trying to replug charger in (basically blind). Good luck. FYI, I'm fighting my refrig now, 3rd time it's been back in for this. Overall, really like the camper. Good luck, safe travels.



Mine is under the fridge behind the fuse panel. No access to it other than thru distribution panel unless a person wants to remove all the shelves and a wall in the pantry that are stapled in.. its a rear kitchen with the fridge on the back wall and pantries on either side. Working now so I will keep an eye on it.


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[sourdough]

This conversation just reminds me; on the PDI one should keep the location of maintenance items in mind. I always look for the water pump location, converter etc. so you know you don't have to tear the trailer up to get to it. Just a thought......

[ChuckS]

What sort of troubles are you having with your fridge? As you may remember I have same year and model Alpine as you....running stock 4 door LP/elect fridge

[Justus2]

Thank you all for your help & advice. The fuses were in the basement, behind the water hookup/station. So panel had to be removed.

New converter installed ($80) + 2 new 40amp fuses installed (my husband wasn't sure where to look for them so we paid our RV repair man $170) = all total it cost us about $1000 for the power outage over the winter, but I'm happy to report everything is up and running as expected.

Lesson learned - from here on out we will remove the battery in the fall and bring it home so it stays warm. That way there should be no more issues with fuses and converters (I hope).

[caroljg]

I have a 2014 Cougar 5th wheel and am a full timer. I just installed a new Interstate battery.
My battery disconnect is in the off position......have also tried the 'on' position.
When not hooked up to the pedestal,the inside lights do not work.
As part of the 'work up' I checked the 40amp fuses, and they looked fine, however when I put them back it there was some sparking............what is wrong?
I have not a lick of technical skills, and just want to make sure that I am not going to burst into flames!
Thank you....Carol

[JRTJH]

Carol,

The first thing I'd urge you to check is the battery installation. The BLACK cable goes to the positive battery terminal and the WHITE cable goes to the negative battery terminal.

I've seen a number of people install the battery in reverse and that will cause the problems you're experiencing.

[Eastham]

I keep seeing this black to positive is this a fifth wheel thing.my cougar has a red positive .just wondering what the difference is.

[Tinner12002]

I keep seeing this black to positive is this a fifth wheel thing.my cougar has a red positive .just wondering what the difference is.

Mine is also red but white is still ground regardless of whether pos is blk or red.

[caroljg]

Thanks John...........I do have the black to the positive.............

[caroljg]

Carol,

The first thing I'd urge you to check is the battery installation. The BLACK cable goes to the positive battery terminal and the WHITE cable goes to the negative battery terminal.

I've seen a number of people install the battery in reverse and that will cause the problems you're experiencing.
Thanks John...........I do have the black to the positive.............

[caroljg]

Thanks John...........I do have the black to the positive.............
So, if my battery is properly connected, what would have caused the 'sparking' when I reconnected the 40amp fuses?
thanks
Carol gowing

[bobbecky]

The fuses spark because there will be current flow from the converter operating when the fuses make the connection. The only way to prevent that is have the battery disconnected, but you will get a little spark when connecting the battery, but there is no hazard getting a spark.

[JRTJH]

So, if my battery is properly connected, what would have caused the 'sparking' when I reconnected the 40amp fuses?
thanks
Carol gowing

Power in that circuit and a load being applied. If your trailer is plugged into shore power the converter is powered on and providing 12 VDC to the connection on one of the contacts on those 40 amp fuses. If you have a battery connected to that circuit, as soon as you touch a "good fuse" to those two contacts, you will cause a spark as the power leaves the "powered on contact" on its way to the battery (which is needing a charge).

[caroljg]

The fuses spark because there will be current flow from the converter operating when the fuses make the connection. The only way to prevent that is have the battery disconnected, but you will get a little spark when connecting the battery, but there is no hazard getting a spark.
Thank you John, however, then, why don't my lights work on battery power, unplugged from pedestal?

[caroljg]

The fuses spark because there will be current flow from the converter operating when the fuses make the connection. The only way to prevent that is have the battery disconnected, but you will get a little spark when connecting the battery, but there is no hazard getting a spark.
Thank you bob!
So, what would be a reason that my house lights do not work when I am unplugged from pedestal?

[Tinner12002]

Actually I was just looking in my battery compartment and it has a note posted on the door saying when hooking up batteries red is positive and black in negative. So much for my comment that white is negative!!

[Eastham]

Thanks for the info I wasn't aware that they used black for positive learn something new every day.thats why I spend so much time on this site Thanks.

[SteveC7010]

Let's all be real cautious about this hot and ground info. For years, the RV industry used black for hot and white for ground. The electronics and automotive industry did the opposite: black for ground and red or some other color for hot depending on the complexity of the item. Now, we're hearing that trailers are beginning to come through with red for hot and black for ground.

So which is it on your unit? The easiest way to tell is to uncover your battery. The terminals should be labeled with a + and a - molded into the body of the battery right next to each terminal. Locate the minus sign which is the ground side. Note the color of the thick wire attached to it, and then follow that wire. It should only go a foot or two and be attached to the frame of the trailer with a large screw or bolt. That is your main ground from the battery to the frame.

In a perfect world, all the ground wires in your trailer would be the same color as the ground wire on your battery. My Cougar has the older style color coding so white should be ground everywhere in the unit. I've had enough of 12vdc fixtures off to look at quite a bit of the wiring. The hot wire is usually a white wire with a colored stripe running the length of it and ground is a plain white wire. But I don't treat that as gospel throughout the rig. I get out my multimeter and double check the wiring for myself.

This is one of the reasons that we suggest that every RV owner should have a multimeter ($15 or so in the electric aisle of all the big box home improvement stores) and know how to use it.

[chuckster57]

Just started a PDI on a 2018 trailer:

RED is (+) positive
BLACK is (-) negative at battery.

I will agree that pretty much all INTERNAL 12VDC wiring uses white as ground.

[sourdough]

It's nice to think that everything is going to be "normal" and things on an RV will "always be the same", but, as we all know, "normal" in an RV from year to year can vary widely. When dealing with power (AC or DC) you don't take anything for granted or look at a schematic and take it for granted. You always go with "eyes on". I've bought trailers, and cars, that have been mutilated and what is normally "normal" has been cast to the wind. You have to look, and be able to trace if necessary, the various leads and know what you are looking at/for. So, with power be careful, and be sure.

[Tinner12002]

Well to clarify some I think, That I've not ever seen a heavy/large white battery cable so that may be the reason for the black being used as ground in battery compartments and then using smaller white wire in the branch circuits. Just throwing that out there as the possible reason for the color change.

[notanlines]

We seem to have vectored off track slightly. Carol may or may not have gotten her lights to work. Usually one of you electric wizards comes up with the answer.
Carol, if you're still out there in RV land let us know how things are turning out. If they still aren't working we need a little more info like "did they work fine before you installed the new battery?"

[caroljg]

We seem to have vectored off track slightly. Carol may or may not have gotten her lights to work. Usually one of you electric wizards comes up with the answer.
Carol, if you're still out there in RV land let us know how things are turning out. If they still aren't working we need a little more info like "did they work fine before you installed the new battery?"
Hello again,
I am the full timer with the Cougar fifth wheel. We solved the problem of the sparking when reconnecting 40 amp fuses...........as the forum indicated this is normal.
What I cannot figure out is the lack of internal lighting when disconnected from pedestal.
They initially worked when I first bought rig, and up to about 6 months ago.
I tried the lights one day, after a five hour loss of power.....no lights. I checked the battery, and it was depleted...........charged it...........checked with multi-meter, and not holding a charge.........I bought a new battery....interstate......and it is installed correctly. No lights.
Any suggestions?

[ctbruce]

Hello again,
I am the full timer with the Cougar fifth wheel. We solved the problem of the sparking when reconnecting 40 amp fuses...........as the forum indicated this is normal.
What I cannot figure out is the lack of internal lighting when disconnected from pedestal.
They initially worked when I first bought rig, and up to about 6 months ago.
I tried the lights one day, after a five hour loss of power.....no lights. I checked the battery, and it was depleted...........charged it...........checked with multi-meter, and not holding a charge.........I bought a new battery....interstate......and it is installed correctly. No lights.
Any suggestions?2 things come to mind.

1. Is your battery disconnect engaged?

2. Did you take out all of the fuses and visually inspect them?

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[Thendric]

New member here. Same problem as caroljg. No DC power. Inspected all fuzes, battery disconnect is engaged to connect. I don't get power when my 2011 Fusion Toy Hauler is conected to my 2008 Toyota Tundra truck either.

[ctbruce]

New member here. Same problem as caroljg. No DC power. Inspected all fuzes, battery disconnect is engaged to connect. I don't get power when my 2011 Fusion Toy Hauler is conected to my 2008 Toyota Tundra truck either.Is your battery good? And charged? You need to check output with a multimeter. Or you could take it to a auto parts store to get it load tested.

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[Thendric]

Is your battery good? And charged? You need to check output with a multimeter. Or you could take it to a auto parts store to get it load tested.

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Yes, brand new sealed, deep cycle battery. I "somehow" cooked the old battery. Overcharged and boiled out the water twice while the camper was plugged in by shoreline. Battery must have been connected? New Battery is fully charged. All is well EXCEPT nothing functions on DC.

[JRTJH]

The first thing that comes to mind is that the battery cables are reversed. On most trailers, white is NEG and black is POS. On some current model trailers, black is NEG and red is POS.... It's easy to get confused and if you touch the cables to the battery "backwards", even for an instant, you'll blow the reverse polarity fuses (40 amp) on the converter/power center. That will effectively prevent any 12 volt power to the trailer until the fuses are replaced.

[Thendric]

The first thing that comes to mind is that the battery cables are reversed. On most trailers, white is NEG and black is POS. On some current model trailers, black is NEG and red is POS.... It's easy to get confused and if you touch the cables to the battery "backwards", even for an instant, you'll blow the reverse polarity fuses (40 amp) on the converter/power center. That will effectively prevent any 12 volt power to the trailer until the fuses are replaced.

Black and white cables properly affixed. In fact, previous owner wrapped red tape on the end of the pos (black) cable and black tape around the white (neg) cables. The 40 amp fuses are okay.

[caroljg]

Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
The first thing that comes to mind is that the battery cables are reversed. On most trailers, white is NEG and black is POS. On some current model trailers, black is NEG and red is POS.... It's easy to get confused and if you touch the cables to the battery "backwards", even for an instant, you'll blow the reverse polarity fuses (40 amp) on the converter/power center. That will effectively prevent any 12 volt power to the trailer until the fuses are replaced.



Caroljg here.............40amps are fine, battery correctly connected. I have tried the battery disconnect in the on and the off position.......no lights.

[sourdough]

The battery cables to the distribution point and beyond can be checked with a VOM. A VOM is like a flashlight and can show you what you wouldn't normally see. They are invaluable IMO. They will tell you where you do and don't have battery. Have you utilized on in the attempt to find the loss of power?

[chuckster57]

And a test light. I use the test light more than the VOM. You can go to the hardware store, buy a male plug end. Then just add a wire to the ground terminal. Your test light will have a clip on the end, plug the plug into ANY plug in the trailer, clip on the test light and probe the positive side on ANY circuit.

ALL grounds AC and DC are common.

[sourdough]

And a test light. I use the test light more than the VOM. You can go to the hardware store, buy a male plug end. Then just add a wire to the ground terminal. Your test light will have a clip on the end, plug the plug into ANY plug in the trailer, clip on the test light and probe the positive side on ANY circuit.

ALL grounds AC and DC are common.


Yep. ^^^ I spent years using the VOM as my method of chasing electrical issues. Had a break down in the middle of nowhere with my son....the first thing he asked was where my test light was.....I had only one and it was 200 miles away. I now carry them in most everything.

[Tinner12002]

Make sure you try to get power with the disconnect in both positions, off and on, as they may have something reversed there also.

[Thendric]

Make sure you try to get power with the disconnect in both positions, off and on, as they may have something reversed there also.

Gettin' old. Hadn't thought of this. My next step when I get a chance. Thanks!

[Thendric]

Make sure you try to get power with the disconnect in both positions, off and on, as they may have something reversed there also.

Finally got to it. Power at the disconnect switch. Even replaced the cruddy breaker located on the tongue. No 12 volt to appliances. Off to the local shop to chase it down. Must be converter problem.....