slideout stuck in

[buckeyebobhockingcamper]

well i am in sunny florida headed to ohio and my slideout (couch/dinette)is stuck in the in position.when i left the keys it was jumping and banging when i put it out.going in was ok,dont know if cable jammed or what.both big slides have been stopping and resetting circuit breaker on motor,then going again .had this trouble last winter with kitchen slide and dealer put new motor in under warranty.i had to move sites in fort myers and when i tried to extend slide it was a no go,lots of jumping from motor.this is a 2015 310re high country,dont see this as a lasting fifthwheel.

[eds451]

Try manually extending the slide. There should be a 3/4 inch nut/bolt/screw on the mechanism under the trailer (under the coroplast) that allows you to extend/retract the slide. Mine got stuck out. Once I started bringing it in the motor did the rest. Got stuck I guess.

[buckeyebobhockingcamper]

mine is cable driven and motor is above slideout inside camper,afraid to mess with it now as i still have to drive home to ohio,thanks for reply

[sourdough]

Are the cables in adjustment? They should be rather tight with no sag.

The slide runs across a wear bar at the bottom. Has your bottom seal gotten chewed up and possibly been pulled under causing the slides to bind? If both slides are doing the same thing and causing the motors to reset that doesn't sound good. I had it happen on one of my big slides and, for some unknown reason, apparently when they made the slide they put 2 4" wide strips of Darco tape from front to back on the slide. Why? No one could start to guess. Due to the orientation of the tape they caught on the wear bar and it peeled them off under the slide and caused it to jump, jerk and finally stop. We dug out all the tape and it resumed moving.

The other slide just jerked and stuck but kept moving. We found a piece of the carpet on one end had not been trimmed when installed and it was torn and pulled out under the slide. I cut the excess off. I also had to spray Zep 45 on the big slides to stop the jerking and sticking.

Look at the underside of the slides and see what material is under them. If it's Darco material look for any wear and abrasion on the sides or anywhere else. Mine is in the shop now so they can place a Teflon like material down each end and the middle of each slide. Seems that over time the slides have a tendency to sort of "settle" at the ends and they become the weight bearing points for the slide. The covering keeps the slide from eating up the Darco (very poor design and material).

Good luck on getting things fixed and getting back home.

[xrated]

Actually, when the slide is being pulled in, the other 4 cables should have a little bit of slack. When it's being pulled out, the opposite cables should have a bit of slack. If the cables are not adjusted like that (it's called a give and take system), the slide will NOT go in and out without grunting/making noise/straining and probably stalling out.

I went through the entire adjustment procedure last fall with my new one. It seems a bit intimidating at first, but actually is a fairly simple setup. 4 cables that pull in, and 4 different cables that pull out.....but, they DO have to "give and take" when operating

[sourdough]

Actually, when the slide is being pulled in, the other 4 cables should have a little bit of slack. When it's being pulled out, the opposite cables should have a bit of slack. If the cables are not adjusted like that (it's called a give and take system), the slide will NOT go in and out without grunting/making noise/straining and probably stalling out.

I went through the entire adjustment procedure last fall with my new one. It seems a bit intimidating at first, but actually is a fairly simple setup. 4 cables that pull in, and 4 different cables that pull out.....but, they DO have to "give and take" when operating


You are right. What I was trying to say was that even though you have 4 cables less taut than the others they shouldn't be sagging down/drooping. Mine have maybe a 1/2" of slack on the loose ones if I push on them if I recall. I didn't explain it well enough.

[xrated]

No problem, and you're right, the manual talks about 1/2" of slack. The problem with that whole setup though is that Keystone doesn't do an adequate job of "locking down" the adjusters. After I got mine adjusted properly, I took the time to add an additional 1/4 - 20 nut on the end of the adjustment piece and lock it down against the adjustment nut.....so it couldn't move on its own and come out of adjustment.

[tom37]

I agree with Xrated. I couldn't keep the cables adjusted until I used a lock nut.

[xrated]

I agree with Xrated. I couldn't keep the cables adjusted until I used a lock nut.

Yea, the little white foam blocks are just a bad joke for locking the adjusters in place. I was like.....:eek:

[BuxCamper]

No problem, and you're right, the manual talks about 1/2" of slack. The problem with that whole setup though is that Keystone doesn't do an adequate job of "locking down" the adjusters. After I got mine adjusted properly, I took the time to add an additional 1/4 - 20 nut on the end of the adjustment piece and lock it down against the adjustment nut.....so it couldn't move on its own and come out of adjustment.
Got a picture to post? I'd rather add a jam nut now rather than later.

-- Mark

[xrated]

Got a picture to post? I'd rather add a jam nut now rather than later.

-- Mark

Mark......sorry, I didn't take a picture(s) of the adjustment job. But, the good news is, here is a downloadable "service manual" of the cable system from BAL Accu-slide.

http://norcoind.com/bal/downloads/accuslide/accuslide_service-manual.pdf

Once I downloaded it, I went ahead and printed it out and put it with all the other owner's manuals for the trailer that I have...
On page 9 of the manual, you will see a close up picture of one of the adjusting blocks. In the example, it is showing the foam pieces that BAL has chosen to use to try and hold the adjustment cables in place. I removed all of those foam pieces and added a 1/4 - 20 nut to every single one of the cable adjusters and jammed it down against the existing adjustment nut. There are 8 of them total, and since I have two slides in my trailer, I used a total of 16 nuts....8 on the sofa slide and 8 on the refrigerator/stove slide.

Hope this information ^^^^ and link, help you with the slide problem.

Here is the link to the page that has several manuals on it.... http://norcoind.com/bal/products/oem/accuslide/index.shtml

There is also an animated (I think) video of how the slide system should work.

[BuxCamper]

At least for me the PDF had an adjusting block with foam anti-vibration blocks on page 8. I assume that is what you mean. I'll look for them the next time I'm in the camper. I know a couple will be real fun to reach!

-- Mark

[Tbos]

BuxCamper,
Depending on the clearance, you may need to remove the entire fascia to get to them. I have not done that but I've been told it on with brads and a Brad nailer will be needed to reattach it. If I ever remove mine I'm going to reattach with screws.


2016 Passport GT 2810BHS, 2016 F350 CC DRW

[xrated]

I guess I was lucky, all of the equipment is very easy to access when the slide is out......in other words, nothing had to be removed for access in mine.

BuxCamper wrote:
At least for me the PDF had an adjusting block with foam anti-vibration blocks on page 8. I assume that is what you mean. I'll look for them the next time I'm in the camper. I know a couple will be real fun to reach!


Yea, on my PDF, it was page 9, but yours may have loaded a bit different. The bottom line is that there is a picture for you to see, since I didn't take any pics when I did mine. The pic is of the Blue block and you can clearly see the two adjusters (Top and Bottom) that are hooked up to the cables. The other side, which isn't visible, is the part that hooks onto the chain, which is driven by the motor/gearbox assembly. The parts that loosen up are the two pieces that have the cables hooked onto the end of them and will cause you problems if not adjusted properly. Of course, once you get them adjusted properly, as per the instructions provided, the need to "lock" them in place so that they don't move again, becomes paramount! That's where the addtional 1/4 - 20 nuts come in......and you lock them down tight against the original adjusting nuts.....then throw the foam blocks in the trash and know that you truly have the adjustment locked in place. Over time (I haven't used mine enough for this to happen), the cables will most likely wear/stretch, and you may need to adjust everything again. But the good news is, you won't be adjusting because the foam blocks fell out of place and let the adjusting nuts come loose.