5th wheel lift kit

[Don N.]

Has anyone considered installing or has installed a lift kit for their 5th wheel? The front of my trailer is slightly "nose up" when attached to my truck, and I want an additional 3" of clearance for my rear jacks while traveling. I have no more adjustment available on my gooseneck hitch. Keystone informed me that installing a lift kit "may" affect the warranty; don't know what that means. I have already damaged and had to replace one of the rear jacks. A local well known car/truck suspension business told me they have and can install a lift kit for about $500.

[bsmith0404]

First thing to check is if your axles are above or below the springs. The the axles are above the springs, flip them. That will give you the lift you want. if not, people do it, just make sure its a good shop that knows what they're doing and does it right. The last thing you want is a block coming out. Keep in mind, trailer axles flex as part of the suspension, they're not like a rigid axle on a truck.

As for voiding the warranty, they will tell you that any modifications could void warranty if there are any problems down the road. They will try to point at the modification and say it caused or contributed to the problem.

[JRTJH]

Reading back to your second post on the forum, "I discovered soon after buying our Sprinter (269FWRLS) in March 2016..." It seems that your Keystone warranty is already expired. To the best of my knowledge, LCI (Lippert) makes the frame and they have no "consumer warranty" that extends beyond what Keystone provided during the first 12 months. http://www.lci1.com/assets/content/support/forms/Limited_Warranty.pdf

So, I'd have to ask you, what warranty are you concerned with at this point?

As for installing a lift kit on your chassis, it's a simple process, $500 seems a bit high, at least for doing the job around this area. Depending on where you're located, that may be close to the "appropriate rate". The only problem I would caution against is raising the center of gravity. Raising your trailer will cause it to be more "top-heavy" in turns and curves and might lead to a problem with controllability in an emergency. I'd discuss that "at length" with the suspension company that you're considering to do the work. They have the trailer and the entire process "at hand" and can give you a much better opinion of what to expect than someone (like me) who can only visualize what it might be when the work is completed.

[gearhead]

I would try to find an "old time" spring shop. It's been 30+ years since I used one. I was rebuilding a utility trailer and had a shop in the Houston ghetto re-arch and add a couple leafs to the Checker taxi cab straight axle. (That's a whole nuther story). It was very cheap...even back then. Find a shop and talk to them about what you want. I would call and see if they are interested in the work before I hooked up and towed the trailer there.
$500 sounds about 2x too much for installing lift blocks.

[Ruko]

This is an easy bolt on kit that will lift the unit 2" as well as add alignment adjustablity.

https://store.lci1.com/correct-track-suspension-alignment

[Don N.]

Thank you all for your thoughts. I purchased an extended warranty and should probably read the damn thing! The leaf springs sit atop the axles on my FW and I'm aware of the center-of-gravity issue. The springs guy I talked too mentioned that to me regarding installing a lift kit. Anyone installed a kit?

[rhagfo]

This is an easy bolt on kit that will lift the unit 2" as well as add alignment adjustablity.

https://store.lci1.com/correct-track-suspension-alignment

This is what I used to get the final 2' at the axle I needed to level my fiver.

[warsw]

I installed a 3" lift on my 33' Forest river 5th/W. I put the lift together myself. I just got 2x3 inch blocks cut to length at Swift steal, a local steel outlet. I then purchased new longer axle "U" bolts from Summit Racing and got 3" longer centering pins from Napa auto parts.

I have a drill press so I was able to drill the holes for the centering pins. If you don’t have a press you need to have them drilled. Drilling through 3” of steel takes some time and they need to be straight.

To do the install I pulled the rear axle up on blocks and pulled the tire on the front axle, like you would to change a flat. This gave the clearance to drop the front axle to install the block. To do the rear axle I put the front on blocks. I just did one side at a time and kept the trailer connected to the truck so it couldn’t move.
I have sense pulled the trailer over 6K miles with absolutely no problems what so ever. It tows exactly the same as before the lift. I even had the trailer in 60 mph cross winds with no signs of any instability. The trailer now sits level with near equal weight on both axles.

This is the second 5th/W I have done this to. The first trailer was a 39’ Montana High Country. I had over 30K miles on it when I sold it with no negative issues.
To get all the parts it cost about $89.00 and took about 4 hr for me to do the install.

I have no problems doing this lift on a 5th/W or a TT. You will have to decide if doing this kind of mod fits into your comfort zone.

Words of caution:
1. If you do a lift make sure you get quality parts that are rated for auto use. Summit Racing is a good source.
2. IMHO….3” would be the max and keep an eye on all the suspension components. I haven’t seen any excess wear from doing a lift but it is surly a good idea to pay more attention to what is going on under there.

[mtofell]

Can't help with the lift kit but if the only reason is for your jacks I may be able to help. The location on my Keystone Hideout was absolutely insane - at the far back end of the trailer. I scraped a couple times and then finally ripped one completely off on a dirt road. So, I re-mounted them on 2X4s set into the frame. In doing so I moved them a bit forward which will help. But the main benefit is now I can just zip out a few screws and remove them completely when needed.

I can snap some pictures later and upload them if you're interested.

[Dave W]

I raised ours about an inch which at the rear was enough for everything but the dragging spare. I did it using some 1.75 wide by 1" thick aluminum from Metals Supermarket. I bought enough stock so could have stacked and bolted 2 pieces together and made it 2" but that wasn't necessary. This year, since Keystone in their 'wisdom' only supplied the12K pound, 38 foot fiver with 5200 pound axles, I'm upgrading them to 6000 pound capacity axles with new springs and disc brake hubs. The jury is out as to whether I really need the spacers, but will probably reinstall them regardless if the new U-bolts will work. I'm also going to install the three MORryde X factor cross members I bought last year and ran out of time to install. I need to modify the gas piping to do the job per their design. Just waiting on better weather:flowers:

The absolute best way, IMO, to raise a trailer over a couple inches or so is to build a subframe add on welded to the existing trailer frame and move everything down whatever amount you need

[tralbos]

The only way to go is with a Sub-Frame Lift. My old Keystone had one when I bought it to sit level on my 2015 Ram 2500 Mega Cab pickup, and I just had a sub-frame lift put on my newer camper I just got last fall.
I added a 4" Tube Sub-Frame with cross supports and New hangers that were 1" longer than the original ones to give a total lift of 5" and that leveled it right out.
http://www.keystoneforums.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=972&pictureid=5390
http://www.keystoneforums.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=972&pictureid=5391
http://www.keystoneforums.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=972&pictureid=5392

[X-Jaywalker]

I do not know where Champerlian is, but curious how much that cost you? I am in the same boat trying to figure out which way to go. I too need about 4-5 inches. WOW, seems like a lot, eh? The quote I got was $2000. in Arizona. Thanks

[X-Jaywalker]

I installed a 3" lift on my 33' Forest river 5th/W. I put the lift together myself. I just got 2x3 inch blocks cut to length at Swift steal, a local steel outlet. I then purchased new longer axle "U" bolts from Summit Racing and got 3" longer centering pins from Napa auto parts.

I have a drill press so I was able to drill the holes for the centering pins. If you don’t have a press you need to have them drilled. Drilling through 3” of steel takes some time and they need to be straight.

To do the install I pulled the rear axle up on blocks and pulled the tire on the front axle, like you would to change a flat. This gave the clearance to drop the front axle to install the block. To do the rear axle I put the front on blocks. I just did one side at a time and kept the trailer connected to the truck so it couldn’t move.
I have sense pulled the trailer over 6K miles with absolutely no problems what so ever. It tows exactly the same as before the lift. I even had the trailer in 60 mph cross winds with no signs of any instability. The trailer now sits level with near equal weight on both axles.

This is the second 5th/W I have done this to. The first trailer was a 39’ Montana High Country. I had over 30K miles on it when I sold it with no negative issues.
To get all the parts it cost about $89.00 and took about 4 hr for me to do the install.

I have no problems doing this lift on a 5th/W or a TT. You will have to decide if doing this kind of mod fits into your comfort zone.

Words of caution:
1. If you do a lift make sure you get quality parts that are rated for auto use. Summit Racing is a good source.
2. IMHO….3” would be the max and keep an eye on all the suspension components. I haven’t seen any excess wear from doing a lift but it is surly a good idea to pay more attention to what is going on under there.

Warsw.....I am thinking of doing this as well. Do you have some photos you could share? Question? You said you installed 2"x3" blocks. They were Steel? And what length? I am sure yours is a Tandem Axle. So would that be the distance from the front hanger to the rear hanger? Thx in Advance.

[X-Jaywalker]

The only way to go is with a Sub-Frame Lift. My old Keystone had one when I bought it to sit level on my 2015 Ram 2500 Mega Cab pickup, and I just had a sub-frame lift put on my newer camper I just got last fall.
I added a 4" Tube Sub-Frame with cross supports and New hangers that were 1" longer than the original ones to give a total lift of 5" and that leveled it right out.
http://www.keystoneforums.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=972&pictureid=5390
http://www.keystoneforums.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=972&pictureid=5391
http://www.keystoneforums.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=972&pictureid=5392

Hi TralBos.....this is what I need. Same set up. You must be an experienced welder if you did this yourself. So this obviously raised your center of cavity (everyone is warning me about). How does it handle and any issues with your height? Did you change to 16 " tires and rims or stay at 15"?

[Hobie]

I’m following this post with real interest. After buying a new Ford F-250, my fiver now sits 8” lower in the back than the front. I’m at a loss how to fix this.

[Fishsizzle]

I’m following this post with real interest. After buying a new Ford F-250, my fiver now sits 8” lower in the back than the front. I’m at a loss how to fix this.

Wow, that’s a lot of difference to make up

[JRTJH]

I’m following this post with real interest. After buying a new Ford F-250, my fiver now sits 8” lower in the back than the front. I’m at a loss how to fix this.

First, welcome to the forum. There is a wealth of information here, so answers to nearly every situation can be found. Problem is: We have no idea, yet, what your situation is. Your profile states you have a Cougar, that's all we know. You say you bought a "new F250" but we don't know if it's a "new to you" 1999 F250 with a 6" lift kit or a 2019 F250 with stock suspension. We also don't know "which" Cougar you have, either in year or model/length. It's significantly different to have a 8" difference in chassis rail height on a 26' trailer and on a 41' trailer, so as you can see, we'd all need quite a bit more information about your rig and the problems you face before we can give you accurate opinions on some ways to resolve the problem.

Get back with us and I'm sure the members will "jump in with both feet" to help resolve your issues.

Again, welcome.

[Hobie]

JRJTH...thanks for the welcome. My Cougar is a 2012 28SGS. My 2019 F250 super duty is factory fresh with the puck system. Per the Pullrite folks I have their model 2700 16,000 lb hitch sitting on top of their 442 adapter. My trailer springs are on top of the axles. I believe I can raise the king pin 2 holes. I have pictures of all this if it would help. Thanks everyone. I really appreciate all advice

[Matt1959]

So if you put 3” blocks on the axle, what do you do with the equalizer pivot?

[Hobie]

I’m not sure I know what an equalizer pivot is???

[jesfl45]

I just joined this Forum and found this to be an extremely helpful discussion, especially the photos which were immensely educationsal for me. I have a similar problem, in that I need my rig raised 4" to 6." Yes, I know that is a lot. But . . . compared to other options, lifting the trailer is likely the least expensive for me.
While going to that trouble, I've been considering the idea and looking for options for adding shock absorbers, or some other suspension-enhancing system, to my current leaf suspension.
Since I am a complete novice to RVing, I yearn for every grain of information I can obtain. So, if anyone has any information they can share about the advantages/disadvantages of shocks or other buffering additions to the leaf springs, I will value that information.
One other thing that did not enter the discussion about how to "lift" a trailer (like a fifth wheel) is the idea of "flipping the axles?"
I've found several videos where trailer owners just changed the leafs from a bowed-downward position to a bowed-upward positions. Seemed fairly simple to do.
So, my "big question" is what are the pros and cons of this technique. Anyone have any experience with this?
I'll truly appreciate any information anyone happens to have.
Thanks.
jesfl45

[JRTJH]

I'd first ask, "Why do you feel that you need an additional 4-6" suspension rise for your trailer?"

I ask that because the need for trailer height is usually a result of tow vehicle height. If you're towing with a "lifted truck" then you're opening a wide variety of issues from sway to cornering to stability at highway speeds with a rig that has both the tow vehicle and the trailer center of gravity substantially higher than they were built to accommodate.

More information on your tow vehicle, the trailer and the "end result" that you're trying to achieve would help with providing better "SAFE" recommendations.

ADDED: The only information we have about your rig is that it's a "Cougar". It could be a 21' Cougar travel trailer or a 40' Cougar fifth wheel, and there's no information on your tow vehicle which could be anything from a 1996 Ranger supercab "lifted truck" to a new F450 SuperDuty. Much more info is needed to make any recommendations !!!!!

[Matt1959]

Problem solved. Sold camper.

[jesfl45]

To: John (and others participating in this discussion):

Thank you very much for your quick and to-the-point response. When I found this discussion thread, I tried to ask my previous question but the system wouldn't let me send it (even thought I was logged into RVLife). I had to register and log in again, so I just quickly filled out the required info so I could get on with it. I’ve been an RVLife member for quite a while, but I had to do it again for this Keystone forum.

You are correct, I left out information that will help the picture of the problem I face. So, here’s more details than you need to know. But, I wanted to try to fill in all possible blanks.

I have:
- 2018 RAM 2500 SLT Heavy Duty 4WD Diesel, not lifted. And,
- 2004 Coachmen Chaparral 5th wheel, 30 feet, 10,080 GVWR. This is the RV I currently own. I recently looked at a slightly newer, locally-owned Cougar to see if I could make a trade. Turns out, that was a no go. Yes, I know my current RV is not a Keystone, but it is similar. And, the discussion I found in your forum was to the point with a great new (to me) idea, i.e., the very sturdy welded-on box frame to lift a trailer.

END RESULT NEEDED: More than one-inch (1”) clearance between the bottom of the bedroom overhang on the 5th wheel and the bed rails on my RAM truck. RAM 2500/3500 trucks sit very high with the heavy-duty suspension, for instance, as compared to your F250 (and other Chevy and GMC trucks). When I measure comparable F250/F350’s and Chevy 2500/3500’s Fords and Chevys on car dealer lots, they seem naturally to sit 3” to 4” inches lower than my RAM.

The rear of the bed rail on my truck is 58.5 inches from the ground. The bedroom overhang is 59.5 inches from the ground. Obviously, that’s another “no go.” I know the truck will sink 1.5 to 2 inches from the tongue weight of the RV when hitched. But, 3-inches, or so, clearance is not enough for towing.

A gentleman I know with a Cougar and a RAM 3500 has the same problem I face. The difference is that his Cougar overhand is 61.5 inches from the ground (vs. my 59.5 inches). He has been towing with the rear of his Cougar 2 inches (or more?) lower than the front because of his high-sitting RAM. He’s about to lift his Cougar 2 inches, as I understood him.

My first thought was to lower the very-high-sitting truck a little (maybe 2 inches, as it is a “climb” to get into, even with the step rails). Then I also thought I could raise the 5th wheel about 2 inches. The balance of those two changes seemed like a reasonable solution to me, as a very naive new RVer.

But, I now have learned there is no way to lower the RAM because of the 4WD, according to 9 different truck customization shops with whom I talked. That leaves the RV (only) for modification.

Basically, I’m in the predicament of having 2 options: (1) sell/trade my (cherry) RAM and take a $5,000 to $10,000 hit, or (2) lift the RV a minimum of 3-inches (4-inches would be much safer for towing, as I see it). Trading my Chaparral for the one Cougar I saw would have been at least $10,000. Not possible for me.

I don’t know the cost of a “lift” yet, because I still don’t know the best (for me) solution. But a previous participant in this discussion said there was a quote of $2000, which I assumed was for a similar lift modification to the welded-on box frame addition?

I’ve also been trying to learn about replacement suspension systems that might provide a better tow for the 5th wheel (shocks, other rubber cushioning) that, at the same time, would provide some of the needed lift. Learning about the suspension options is even more difficult than finding lift options, I’ve learned.

The “flip the axles” (reverse the bow of the leaf springs) solution that I’ve seen on several videos seems a little tenuous to me. That’s why I asked about it. Also, the weld-on lift blocks solution only seems to get 2” to 3” of lift in every example I’ve found. So far, the weld-on-box-frame solution in this discussion seems to me to be the strongest and, therefore, the safest.

I’ve been postponing a drive to an RV repair shop (it's quite a distance), or a welding shop, until I can gather more information about options and carry on a more thoughtful conversation with someone who can do the work for me.

I am open to any and all ideas for solutions. Indeed, I’ll be eternally grateful to anyone who can provide information that will help.

Thanks, John, and to everyone who has participated. I am very grateful.

Jim
jesfl45

[notanlines]

Am I too late in this conversation to ask what the 59.5 inches from the ground the bottom of the 5'ver has to do with this? All the late model big three are very close to the same height at the tail gate. Normal RV'ers control the distance from the edge of the bed to the bottom of the 5'ver with the different bolt patterns on the pin box and on the hitch itself. We have discussed this many times in the past and usually settle on a 6"-8" distance of comfort. What am I missing here?

[jesfl45]

To: notanlines and others,

Thanks for taking the time to respond. No, to me, you are not late at all to the discussion. I’m hoping for every possible tidbit of information I can obtain and absorb.

You asked “. . . what the 59.5 inches from the ground the bottom of the 5'ver has to do with this?”

The answer is for me is a lot! It’s a huge limitiation for backing into and hitching my 5th wheel. Similarly, it creates a problem for getting the clearance between truck bed and trailer when towing. Let me try to clarify.

First, I think you may be making one key misassumption which complicates your understanding of my issue. You wrote “All the late model big three are very close to the same height at the tailgate.”

Actually, that’s not quite correct. From the ground to the rear bed rails/tailgate of my 2018 RAM 2500 4WD HD is 58.5.” What’s that distance on your truck?

When I went to dealers’ lots with my tape measure and triple-checked, I found the comparable F250s and Chevy/GMC 2500/3500’s rear bed rail height was considerably lower than the RAMs.

So here’s the “rub” with my truck and 5th wheel. I have only one-inch (1”) clearance between the rear bed rails/tailgate and the bottom of the overhang on my 5th wheel. For me, that’s waaaaay too close for comfort when backing in to hitch-up. Any little bounce or jerk when hitching on rough surfaces and I end up with damage to the truck bed rails/tailgate and/or the bottom of the 5th wheel overhang.

Once hitched, the tongue weight pushes the rear of the truck down another 1.5” to 2.”

That gives me 2.5” to 3” of clearance between the truck rear bed rails/tailgate and the bottom of the trailer overhang. Better, but . . . not towable like that.

The pinbox is already adjusted to the max. Also, I am looking at replacement pinboxes to gain a little more.

So, yes, I can adjust the hitch to get me the additional 4”, or so, of clearance and get me within the 6” to 8” of clearance for towing that we all agree is necessary.

However, in so doing, I now have a rig that sits 4”, or more, higher in the front than in the rear when towing! That’s what I call a tail-dragger. I can just hear the rear scissor jacks and bumper hitch screeching on the ground when towing over every bump or hump.

As I said, I know a gentleman who has the same RAM truck and a Cougar. We’ve compared measurements. His Cougar has a 61.5” to the ground under his front overhang. (Again, my rig is 59.5” to the ground.) Ergo, he has 2” more clearance than me when backing into the trailer to hitch-up. So, he is at less damage risk when backing and hitching. (We‘ve exchanged and compared measurements.) He has adjusted pinbox and hitch to get the essential 6” to 8” of towing clearance.

BUT, he still has a problem. He sent me a photo of his truck hitched and his Cougar is sitting significantly lower in the rear than the front. Clearly tail-dragging, also.

He is now planning at least a 2” lift modification to his Cougar to level the trailer when towing and eliminate the tail-dragging problem.

I have no idea what the long-term effect(s) on either my truck or my 5th wheel might be if I towed continuously with the rear of the trailer 4” to 5” lower? Stress on the hitch/pinbox? Stress on the axles? Extra stress on the truck? I just don’t even want to try it for oh-so-many-reasons.

That’s why I am searching for the best solution for lifting my trailer the 4” I feel I need. From what I’ve read, I have concluded I’ll probably be OK towing the trailer with the rear only an inch, or so, lower than the front. That is probably how it will work out after a 4” trailer lift. At least I mostly will have eliminated the ground-dragging on bumps and humps with with the rear scissor jacks and rear bumper hitch. And, any possible stress on the truck or trailer.

I certainly will welcome any other comments and suggestions. I hope to learn everything I can about:

(a)Methods for lifting a 5th wheel about 4 inches? (I am leaning toward the welded steel frame box on the bottom of my Lippert frame as shown in the photos in this discussion.) And,

(b)Any and all problems that have resulted from different lift techniques on 5th wheels? (Again, I recognize some risks with the trailer’s center-of-gravity being higher when towing.)

I truly look forward to hearing and learning more.

Thanks very much to everyone!

Jim
jesfl45

[notanlines]

I believe I see your towing problem much clearer. Let's discuss the hook-up problem. (I just walked out to the 450 and it still measures 58.5 inches)
Very seldom do any of us ever get to hook up our 5th wheel without raising or lowering the pin to the level where we unhooked. If you are camped on a slight incline the distance from ground to the bottom of the 5'ver may vary as much as 10". maybe more. In the morning when it's time to hit the road all stabilizers are raised and the front legs are adjusted back to unhitch height. Ours happens to do it automatically because it is an auto-level system.
If you do use 4" steel blocks to raise the frame, be absolutely sure that those blocks are also welded in place, not just trusted to stay put with new u-bolts. I might also be inclined to go up in diameter one size with my new bolts.
I sure wish you would post pictures on this site for all of us to see up close what you are describing.
And one more thing. I would stop my search for an RV dealer to do my blocks and instead look for a commercial truck spring and alignment shop to do the work.

[td1837]

I need lift on my 2007 raptor triple axle and my research shows that lift blocks can twist out due to flexing of axles while doing sharp turns, especially if you have a triple axle setup. So Id like to do the frame lift route. Is there anyoneor any shops near colorado springs that can do this? I dont weld and dont have a shop. Having trouble finding qualified shop willing to do this at a reasonable rate. Im willing to travel if someone can point me to a shop. thks all for all this good info.

[5J's]

notanlines made a good point. Don't measure from the ground up to the fifthwheel as that can change. Also, 2" of spring "squat" doesn't mean an extra 2" of clearance. The measurements that are important are the distance from the floor of the truck bed to the top of the hitch plate added to the distance from the bottom of the fifthwheel to the bottom of the friction plate minus the height of the bed rails from the floor of the truck bed. The spring "squat" will change that slightly due to how level the trailer sits.

[Canonman]

I need lift on my 2007 raptor triple axle and my research shows that lift blocks can twist out due to flexing of axles while doing sharp turns, especially if you have a triple axle setup. So Id like to do the frame lift route. Is there anyoneor any shops near colorado springs that can do this? I dont weld and dont have a shop. Having trouble finding qualified shop willing to do this at a reasonable rate. Im willing to travel if someone can point me to a shop. thks all for all this good info.

You said "travel". GT Welding in SLC does box frame lifts. I've seen his work. Top Notch!! Not cheap though, but quality work that will hold up.
https://www.gtweldingsaltlakecity.com/
I'd have him do my Cougar but the DW locked up all the ammo for the "buck-zooka":lol:

[moosehog]

I am also trying to lift our 5th wheel and would appreciate any suggestions.
Tow vehicle: 2019 Ram 3500, no lift, but 35" tires.
5th Wheel: 2018 Keystone Fuzion 371
Front is currently riding about 3-4 inches high.
Open to any options.
Anyone know of a shop in the Sacramento area of CA that does trailer lifts?

[michaelrc51]

I too am having trailer leveling issues, even with no air in the airbags I am sitting nose high. I have found a good pressure to run them at but the nose is still a few(close to 3") high, even with the Andersen Ultimate on the lowest setting. My concern is the load of the axles, especially the rear one when carrying toys in the garage.
Truck is a Ram 2500 megacab 4x4 Cummins.
Trailer is a Raptor 300mp.
I upgraded the wheels and tires to 17.5" commercial ones to make sure I hav eno tire overloading issues.

Here is what I've found and will probably do this winter time.
I will replace the whole suspension. I know, sounds pricey but in all actuality it's not bad.
The MORryde SRE4000 will lift the trailer 2"-3" alone. So, I will add the SRE4000, MORryde heavy duty shackle and wet bolt kit, and replace all of the leaf springs.
All in, it's under $1k in parts and it will help the ride quality while adding longevity.
After this I will re-evaluate everything, I think it should be very close with my current observations.

[Canonman]

I am also trying to lift our 5th wheel and would appreciate any suggestions.
Tow vehicle: 2019 Ram 3500, no lift, but 35" tires.
5th Wheel: 2018 Keystone Fuzion 371
Front is currently riding about 3-4 inches high.
Open to any options.
Anyone know of a shop in the Sacramento area of CA that does trailer lifts?

Fabricators here in SLC weld a 4 piece frame to the existing frame like a box to get 4" or more of lift then reattach the running gear to the new thicker frame. I'm probably not explaining it too well, but a good welding shop will know what to do. I want to have our Cougar raised but the DW won't give me any ammo for the 'ol "buck-zooka"

[Northofu1]

I am also trying to lift our 5th wheel and would appreciate any suggestions.
Tow vehicle: 2019 Ram 3500, no lift, but 35" tires.
5th Wheel: 2018 Keystone Fuzion 371
Front is currently riding about 3-4 inches high.
Open to any options.
Anyone know of a shop in the Sacramento area of CA that does trailer lifts?

Hi Moose,
What shocks do you have in the front and rear, do you have air bags in the rear? I would think 4 Bilstein 5100's and a set of ride right air bags would do the trick. Just a thought, would help it ride nice when unhitched as well.
Dan
Sorry, you were talking about the trailer? It looks level from where I'm sitting, the truck, not so much. I think needs a little something though.

[tech740]

I am also trying to lift our 5th wheel and would appreciate any suggestions.
Tow vehicle: 2019 Ram 3500, no lift, but 35" tires.
5th Wheel: 2018 Keystone Fuzion 371
Front is currently riding about 3-4 inches high.
Open to any options.
Anyone know of a shop in the Sacramento area of CA that does trailer lifts?

Looks like you are already 13'2" tall. If you lift it make sue you stay under 13'6".

[bobbecky]

I put 2" blocks on my trailer and now I'm level and don't drag the back end of the trailer. I got the kits from www.trailerblocks.com , and the kit included the blocks, four 9/16" U-bolts and two new plates that the U-bolts go through for each axle. This company is in Canada, so the prices are in Canadian dollars, so don't let that scare you, as US dollars are less. I found, once I got the trailer level, it rides much better, brakes also seem better, and I don't experience any sway or instability. Very happy that I did this, just wish I had done it years ago. Oh, and this photo was taken prior to cutting off the excess threads of the U-bolts. Also, as the lift is at the axles, the front of the fifth wheel did not change so the highest point at the front A/C is still close to the same height, but the rear is now probably four inches higher.

[travelin texans]

Hi Moose,
What shocks do you have in the front and rear, do you have air bags in the rear? I would think 4 Bilstein 5100's and a set of ride right air bags would do the trick. Just a thought, would help it ride nice when unhitched as well.
Dan
Sorry, you were talking about the trailer? It looks level from where I'm sitting, the truck, not so much. I think needs a little something though.

I was about to post about the truck, you beat me to it!
Maybe some tractor weights on the front bumper to put the front tires back on the ground.

[MtnGoat]

Thank you all for your thoughts. Anyone installed a kit?


I have raised my Springdale with homemade 2" blocks. No problems aside from finding the correct diameter U bolts.


Any questions? Ask away...

[CWtheMan]

There are two considerations for lifting your trailer. The first is trailer height. The lift should not exceed the height limit of the state of registration. Second is welding. When welding onto the frame you're not just doing add-ons, you're modifying the vehicle chassis. It would be an area of concern should the vehicle be involved in a highway accident. I doubt very seriously that Keystone would get involved when an uncertified action to the trailer's chassis was/is involved in an accident.

https://fifthwheelst.com/rv-size-limits-equipment-laws-us.html

[DianeV]

We just purchased. 2021 keystone avalanche and the front jacks sit inches above the ground. We are towing with a Ford F-250 super duty. We are in the process of getting the truck lifted with springs and airbags but we have a long way to go. What a terrible design that the front jacks are so low. Any other suggestions?

[wiredgeorge]

We just purchased. 2021 keystone avalanche and the front jacks sit inches above the ground. We are towing with a Ford F-250 super duty. We are in the process of getting the truck lifted with springs and airbags but we have a long way to go. What a terrible design that the front jacks are so low. Any other suggestions?

Welcome Diane! You asked for suggestions so I would start by looking at the payload placard in your driver door frame. It lists the actual payload for your truck. The gross weight of the lightest Avalanche is 15K lbs. The approximate pin weight of a 15K lb. camper at 23 percent of the gross weight is 3450 lbs. Add to that the weight of your hitch, passengers in the truck and any gear in the truck and your payload will be in excess of 4000 lbs. I suspect your F250 is overmatched so take a look at that payload placard for safety sake.

Let me add that numbers in a sales brochure or online are not for YOUR partiicular truck and brochure numbers are ALWAYS misleading as they are for a hypothetical vehicle (stripped) configured for the max payload. The towing spec doesn't relate to a fifth wheel. They use a flat bed loaded with blocks on a closed coarse and the thing isn't 12' tall. The numbers they use are geared for selling and not reality.

[DianeV]

Thank you for your reply. They told us that the trailer was about 13,500. Will check our truck specs. The guy who delivered it (sat too low on our truck for us to bring home) he had a f250 dual wheel and it still sat too low. It is a bad design to have them sit that low but we didn’t realize it until it was hooked up to the truck (when viewed was up on the jacks)

[rhagfo]

Thank you for your reply. They told us that the trailer was about 13,500. Will check our truck specs. The guy who delivered it (sat too low on our truck for us to bring home) he had a f250 dual wheel and it still sat too low. It is a bad design to have them sit that low but we didn’t realize it until it was hooked up to the truck (when viewed was up on the jacks)

Maybe a picture of your setup, F250 don’t come with DRW.

[DianeV]

Will post a pic when I can, truck is at the shop getting the airbags installed currently.

[DianeV]

file:///var/folders/g_/sqrqcxgx5gg30phqs08ghqw40000gn/T/com.apple.Safari/WebKitDropDestination-7CReaey8/IMG_0641.jpeg[QUOTE]

[DianeV]

IDK if that was a link to the pic or not. That was with the F350

[wiredgeorge]

Diane, to post a picture, go to the GO Advanced button and then click on the Manage Attachments button and you can select an image from your file manager on your computer. I am not keen to click on links I don't recognize and while I am sure you are on the up and up, still kind of nervous about clinking.

[gkainz]

file:///var/folders/g_/sqrqcxgx5gg30phqs08ghqw40000gn/T/com.apple.Safari/WebKitDropDestination-7CReaey8/IMG_0641.jpeg

Diane, to post a picture, go to the GO Advanced button and then click on the Manage Attachments button and you can select an image from your file manager on your computer. I am not keen to click on links I don't recognize and while I am sure you are on the up and up, still kind of nervous about clinking.

That link looks like a local picture on a Mac ... see above to upload a photo to the forums.