30 vrs. 50 amp hook-up

[Frank G]

Saturday, when we picked up our new Laredo 325RL it was plugged into a 30amp receptacle with the normal 50/30 dogbone. The 5er is set up for 50 amp service.

The main TV was on and demonstrated to us. All good. Got home and plugged into a 20amp outlet so we could run the lights and TV, nothing more. No power to the TV receptacle and many other receptacles. To me this is understandable as 30 amp service is single phase and 50 amp service is dual phase and the 2 circuits are separated in the panel. (WF 8930/50). Everything was checked with a plug in circuit tester and everything is wired properly.

I am curious how we had TV at the dealer. What happens when you have to take a 30 amp site? Will call in the morning. Any ideas. :confused:

[cardinal96ss]

Puzzling. Did the TV breaker pop? Try resetting it.

[sourdough]

What kind of connection do you have to the 20 amp? A regular 120v/50 amp RV adapter or??

A 50/30 amp adapter splits the AC to both legs of the 50 amp plug so "stuff" works. Sounds like the hookup you have does not do that.

[Frank G]

What kind of connection do you have to the 20 amp? A regular 120v/50 amp RV adapter or??

A 50/30 amp adapter splits the AC to both legs of the 50 amp plug so "stuff" works. Sounds like the hookup you have does not do that.

The 50/30 adapter is used and plugged into the 30/20 adapter that plugs into the house receptacle.

Thank You for your knowledge, I will check this out tomorrow.

[PARAPTOR]

X2 .. as stated your need a cable or combination of cables that is going to take your 20 amp source and have it applied to both legs of the 50 amp service into your 50 amp rig. However you have it connected now, you are only feeding one leg of he 50 amp service into your rig. Basically you only feeding half the 110v breakers in you rig.

[PARAPTOR]

The 50/30 adapter is used and plugged into the 30/20 adapter that plugs into the house receptacle.

Thank You for your knowledge, I will check this out tomorrow.

If you used the same cables used at the dealer, assume they were yours, then unplug the 30 amp cable from there 30 amp receptacle and put the 30 to 20 adapter on that end. Then your 20 amp extension cord goes on there. Done

20 to 30 amp adapter is merely converting a 30 amp plug layout to a 20 amp plug layout, now that 30 to 50 amp doggone is taking the single leg and applying it to both legs of the 50 amp cable going into you 50 amp rig.

So if you did this not sure why it is not working for you. Should be feeding both legs in your rig

[xrated]

Saturday, when we picked up our new Laredo 325RL it was plugged into a 30amp receptacle with the normal 50/30 dogbone. The 5er is set up for 50 amp service.

The main TV was on and demonstrated to us. All good. Got home and plugged into a 20amp outlet so we could run the lights and TV, nothing more. No power to the TV receptacle and many other receptacles. To me this is understandable as 30 amp service is single phase and 50 amp service is dual phase and the 2 circuits are separated in the panel. (WF 8930/50). Everything was checked with a plug in circuit tester and everything is wired properly.

I am curious how we had TV at the dealer. What happens when you have to take a 30 amp site? Will call in the morning. Any ideas. :confused:

Plug your cord into a different outlet.....and keep trying different outlets until you find one that is on the same side of the line as your TV etc.

[sourdough]

It sounds like your setup should work but...... If you have access to a place that sells them just get a 120v/50A adapter and use that. I use a 12 ga. 25' extension cord and plug it into the 50A pigtail that plugs into the trailer and all is well.....unless I try to pull more than 20A:)

[JRTJH]

Some dealerships use a "service department" power cable (so the customer's new cable stays clean and stowed). If your dealership did this, you could have a faulty power cable. One other possibility (if there's no power to anything in your trailer) is that your home outlet that you're plugging into is wired backwards and you're not getting power to the "hot side" of your trailer electrical breaker box....

[sourdough]

Your going from a 20A (120VAC) to 30A adapter....where is that located? Then you're going from the 30A adapter to a 50A...where is that located? In theory you should be getting 120v from the 120v plug and it runs on one conductor through the 30A adapter then splits to both 120V legs of the 50A plug inside the 30/50 adapter. Take a meter and read what should be the 2 hot legs in the 50A plug. I'm thinking you don't have AC on one of them. Maybe a bad 30/50 adapter? Here is a link that shows where your hot legs should be:

https://www.google.com/search?q=wiring+diagram+for+50A+RV+plug&biw=1218&bih=643&tbm=isch&imgil=qw2tXNmzX0mBqM%253A%253BC-rlL7P6f_YjyM%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.disc onnecteddocumentary.com%25252F50-amp-rv-wiring-diagram%25252F&source=iu&pf=m&fir=qw2tXNmzX0mBqM%253A%252CC-rlL7P6f_YjyM%252C_&usg=__Hhr93iG3uiREq3psddcJDL3i8ys%3D&ved=0ahUKEwi7kMufosPSAhXsx4MKHVIlBtsQyjcILA&ei=SBC-WLvMEOyPjwTSypjYDQ#imgrc=qw2tXNmzX0mBqM:

[Mikendebbie]

I have 330RL (travel trailer version of your rig). When we brought ours home and plugged in to our 30 amp outlet - Nothing worked in the entertainment slide out. Turned out to be the circuit was tripped on the outlet inside the outdoor kitchen. Reset the button and all is good. Be sure to check that outlet. This has happened a couple of times since. Not sure why it trips.

[PARAPTOR]

The majority of posts have identified the electrical components and how they need to be connected to power a 50 amp rig from a extension cord connecting the rig to a house receptacle. The OP is requested to inform us as to exactly what electrical cables/adapters he is currently using.

[PARAPTOR]

I have 330RL (travel trailer version of your rig). When we brought ours home and plugged in to our 30 amp outlet - Nothing worked in the entertainment slide out. Turned out to be the circuit was tripped on the outlet inside the outdoor kitchen. Reset the button and all is good. Be sure to check that outlet. This has happened a couple of times since. Not sure why it trips.

That GFI breaker that you are resetting is designed to be sensitive to electrical faults. That GFI also feeds/protects other plugs down stream from it. I would see if you can relate the tripping to other occurrences such as rain (moisture I'm outside plug), that side movement (possible power cable rubbing on frame), use of a faulty device/extension cable, etc

[Frank G]

The majority of posts have identified the electrical components and how they need to be connected to power a 50 amp rig from a extension cord connecting the rig to a house receptacle. The OP is requested to inform us as to exactly what electrical cables/adapters he is currently using.

1) The 50amp cable was supplied with the unit and was the same one used at the dealership.

2) The 50/30 Dogbone was the one supplied by the dealer and the one used at the dealership.

3) The 30amp/110V adapter is the standard one sold at every RV dealer

4) The extension cord is a short 12ga

5) The house outlet is 20 amp circuit (new and inspected in 2015) and when a plug in type tester is plugged into it it shows to be properly wired.

6) The end of the 110 volt extension cord, when tested, show to be properly wired

7) The working receptacles in the RV show to be properly wired.

I am at work at the time so it will be later in the afternoon before I can continue the search. I do appreciate everyone's input. I am thinking that there is a tripped GFI receptacle that I am missing or, are they using GFI circuit breakers. none of the breakers appear to be tripped. Every receptacle in the unit has a protected by GFI sticker on them.

Later

[PARAPTOR]

Thanks, sounds like you have the correct components and connected accordingly and other than the 30 to 20 amp adapter the same as tested at the dealer. As a quick check I would check in the power distribution panel to ensure you are getting 110v Ac on both legs.

If yes then all that cabling from house to rig is okay. If not I would start by checking the end of your 50 amp shore power cable (diagram provided in previous post). Based on results I would work my way back to the plug in the hose.

I am not aware of GFI circuit breakers being used in these rigs. Concerns me that you say ALL plugs labeled as GFI protected. I would look for multiple GFI plugs and to ensure there are not tripped. Would test each with trip/reset buttons.

We have had posts identifying loose wires on these GFI devices mainly on the output side (that feeding down stream protected plugs.

Please keep us informed when you have a chance to look at it again

[sourdough]

When you get home do the following: get a multi meter and take the plug that plugs into the trailer. Put the common lead of the meter on the ground leg of the 50A plug and the red lead on one of the hot legs as shown in the diagram (one of the plugs on the sides) and see if you have 120V. Do the same for the other hot lead. If you have 120V on each leg THEN start looking for tripped or blown fuses, GFCI plugs etc. No need to start chasing anything until you know you are actually good at the trailer plug.

If everything worked at the trailer when at the dealer, and now it doesn't at your house, logic says it's something in the way it is hooked up. However, if you have the 120v on both legs the trailer is getting what it needs for all of your "stuff" to work, which then points at the distribution panel, fuse, breaker or GFCI circuit. I've not had to pull or work on a ground fault plug in a trailer but in a house you can have outlets wired past the initial plug that will go "dark" if the original GFCI plug is tripped. Good luck and let us know.

[PARAPTOR]

When you get home do the following: get a multi meter and take the plug that plugs into the trailer. Put the common lead of the meter on the ground leg of the 50A plug and the red lead on one of the hot legs as shown in the diagram (one of the plugs on the sides) and see if you have 120V. Do the same for the other hot lead. If you have 120V on each leg THEN start looking for tripped or blown fuses, GFCI plugs etc. No need to start chasing anything until you know you are actually good at the trailer plug.

If everything worked at the trailer when at the dealer, and now it doesn't at your house, logic says it's something in the way it is hooked up. However, if you have the 120v on both legs the trailer is getting what it needs for all of your "stuff" to work, which then points at the distribution panel, fuse, breaker or GFCI circuit. I've not had to pull or work on a ground fault plug in a trailer but in a house you can have outlets wired past the initial plug that will go "dark" if the original GFCI plug is tripped. Good luck and let us know.

Daisy chaining RV outlets off a single GFI, usually in located in the bathroom, is common practice. That GFI protects its own plugs as as well those plugs daisy chained down stream of it (connected to the output terminals of that GFI). A fault in any of these plugs will trip the breaker and open power to all of them. As noted in previous posts(search) it was found that the wires on the identified output terminal were loose or disconnected. If I recall some GFI terminations where push in terminals. Also noted were faulty GFI's. A search of these posts will provide methods used to check these GFI devices.

As noted by many ensuring that both legs in the power distribution panel have power is the place to start.

[Frank G]

Sorry for the delay. Found the tripped GFI receptacle in the bathroom. Would you believe almost all of the receptacles are daisy chained off of one GFI. (about 8 0r 9) The exception being the Washer/Dryer outlet and the BR TV.

The only other Issue is the lack of a handy outlet for a C-pap machine.

Thanks everyone for your input, a lot was learned. :bow:

[sourdough]

Great! I'm glad you found the problem. You might try to think back at the sequence of events to try to figure out what blew it; just as an fyi for yourself. Then again, it could have just tripped being plugged in but you might just think through it.

[66joej]

Having GFCI controlling all other receptacles is not unusual. Had a house in Phoenix built in 2008 it had all of the receptacles ran off of the master bathroom GFCI. This was code at the time. So not surprised that RVs are using this system.

[PARAPTOR]

Sorry for the delay. Found the tripped GFI receptacle in the bathroom. Would you believe almost all of the receptacles are daisy chained off of one GFI. (about 8 0r 9) The exception being the Washer/Dryer outlet and the BR TV.

The only other Issue is the lack of a handy outlet for a C-pap machine.

Thanks everyone for your input, a lot was learned. :bow:



(tx) for getting back to us, Good Job!! :hpyclp:

I agree with sourdough I would also recommend that you monitor the situation and if it continues try and relate it to some event such as rain (moisture in outside plugs) movement of say the slide (wearing insulation, pinched wires), As designed it does not take much to trip these GFI outlets.

In regard to your comment ".... a lot was learned .." That is what this forum is all about, sharing information and thereby learning from each other.

[Outback 325BH]

Having regular receptacles downstream is the correct way to install. More than one GFCI on the same circuit is a waste of money and serves no purpose... although doesn't hurt anything.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[ctbruce]

Chalk this one up in the WIN column....

Chip Bruce, RPh
Kansas City, MO
2016 Fuzion Impact 312
2017 3500HD Silverado LTZ

[Frank G]

Having regular receptacles downstream is the correct way to install. More than one GFCI on the same circuit is a waste of money and serves no purpose... although doesn't hurt anything.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I thoroughly understand this is the correct way to install. The point I was trying to make was the number of downstream receptacles. In the 325RL it cover the receptacles in the following area's. Bathroom, Kitchen, Island, Living area including the TV & Fireplace, Outside Kitchen including the refrigerator and TV. When you through in the everyday living items like curling Irons, Instant Pot, Toaster and Coffee Pot that circuit might be pushed to it's limit. :facepalm:

[sourdough]

I thoroughly understand this is the correct way to install. The point I was trying to make was the number of downstream receptacles. In the 325RL it cover the receptacles in the following area's. Bathroom, Kitchen, Island, Living area including the TV & Fireplace, Outside Kitchen including the refrigerator and TV. When you through in the everyday living items like curling Irons, Instant Pot, Toaster and Coffee Pot that circuit might be pushed to it's limit. :facepalm:

I've never seen a trailer being wired but that sure sounds like a lot to put on one circuit. How many AC breakers do you have?

Just went to look at mine and I've got 10 breakers (15 & 20 amp - FAR more than my 50A service could carry:ermm:). TV, fireplace, AC, microwave etc. have individual circuits. Then the living room, GFCI, bedroom, kitchen also have individual circuits. I have not flipped them to check exactly what is what but yours sure doesn't sound like they have broken them out like that.

[Outback 325BH]

I thoroughly understand this is the correct way to install. The point I was trying to make was the number of downstream receptacles. In the 325RL it cover the receptacles in the following area's. Bathroom, Kitchen, Island, Living area including the TV & Fireplace, Outside Kitchen including the refrigerator and TV. When you through in the everyday living items like curling Irons, Instant Pot, Toaster and Coffee Pot that circuit might be pushed to it's limit. :facepalm:



For sure, that is a lot of receptacles on one circuit. The GFCI discussion kind of clouds that issue but is not relevant.

However...
If on a 20 amp circuit, I would make sure the GFCI is a 20 amp GFCI. Unlike the standard practice of pig-tailing regular receptacles (which prevents total downstream current from flowing through the receptacle -- don't know if your RV uses that practice or not), GFCI's have to have all current flow through them to provide downstream protection. This means you should have a 20 amp GFCI on a 20 amp circuit. Mine does not and I bet yours doesn't either.

Given how many receptacles you have on your circuit, you'll want to be able to use as much of that 20 amps as you can. A 15amp GFCI might run into problems if you try to pull 20 amps through it. I have not investigated the potential issues, but I know there are both 15 and 20 amp GFCI's available. I have them in my home... and are wired the exact same.

Just a recommendation to maximize your circuit.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk