What does this switch control?

[ratowles]

I have a 2009/2010 Keystone Cougar 27RLS. What's the red eliminated switch located to the right and just below the sink operate? I can't find any reference to it in the user manual.

[hankpage]

Most likely the water heater. Unless it's too late, do not turn it on without water in the heater tank. Usually has some symbol on the switch plate ... flame or Htr or LP.

[ratowles]

No, the water heater switch is on the control panel, along with the pump and tank indicators. Thanks for the reply.

[chuckster57]

Could it be water pump? I've seen units with multiple water pump switches.

[ratowles]

I don't think it is the pump. Whatever it is it trips the GFI in my garage, which is where I have the trailer plugged into right now.

[chuckster57]

How many amps is the GFI plug?
May be time to start chasing the wires from the switch.

[GMcKenzie]

No, the water heater switch is on the control panel, along with the pump and tank indicators. Thanks for the reply.

Is the switch on the control panel for the gas side of the water heater? The one you are looking at might be the electric side of the water heater, in which case don't turn it on if the tank is empty.

[cardinal96ss]

If you don't turn it on, are you missing any capability you need or think you should have?

[hankpage]

Turn off the circuit breaker marked "Water Heater" ... then try the switch and see what happens. If the element is burned out it may be shorted to ground and could trip the GFI before the ac breaker. As mentioned .... electric water heater may draw too much for your garage outlet.

[ratowles]

Thanks for all of the replies. I figured out the GIF issue. I don't seem to be missing any capabilities it only operates with shore power applied.

I don't think I have an electric water heater, gas only as far as I know. However, that would make sense given what I am seeing. If that is it, it's probably ruined, as I had it on for several hours while I tried to figure it out. Didn't smell anything, which is odd if that's what it is.

The installation doesn't look factory. Wrong screws etc.... I will try your suggestion about the breaker. I guess if there's no water heater breaker that will answer that question. I will let you know what I find out.

[ratowles]

The only thing not working is the furnace won't light. Don't think it is related as it won't light with or without the switch enabled.

[ratowles]

No water heater breaker/fuse. So, gas only water heater. Still confused.

Attaching picture of the switch.

[ratowles]

Any help is appreciated.

[CarKath]

Did the previous owners have satellite tv and place the switch there ? Should be easy to trace backwards from where it is placed . Definitely looks like an add on of some kind to me .

[rode2nowhere]

track the wires down if you can

[sourdough]

Pull the switch. You will have an incoming hot lead. Check with a meter. In the off position the hot lead will still have battery while the lead to the load will not. Turn on the switch to verify that it switched the power to the other side (this is not completely necessary). The incoming (hot) side may well be long. Take the output side wire and pull it; you may very well be able to tell where it goes by the sound it makes (pull/push vigorously if needed). Usually, on an add on the feed line may be long but the new line ran will be short or at least loose enough to hear in the structure. Good luck.

[ratowles]

I traced the wires and they run underneath the sink and disappear into the wall adjacent to the stove/oven near the outside wall of the trailer. The wires are secured to the walls with no play at all. Probably installed at a dealer. I will try and follow it down the wall. Mayne a wire comes out somewhere and provides an exterior AC power source for a dish or something else. Thanks for the ideas.

[chuckster57]

Is the refer next to the stove? If so then take the lower access panel off and if you know the color of the wires, you might be able to see which way it goes. Odds are if a dealer installed it, its only zip tied to existing wires.

[sourdough]

That switch looks like an "add on" to me....by someone. Chuckster can probably add more but I've not seen one, red, illuminated switch on an RV sticking in a place like that. Of course, that doesn't mean a thing.

You've pulled the switch and pulled "a" wire or "both" wires to determine origination and destination? If indeterminate, pull the switch, disconnect the line going to the load and tape; no more blown fuses and nothing necessary (apparently) turned off.

[ctbruce]

Do you know what brand of water heater you have? You will probably need to pull the outside cover and look for a tag on it.

Chip Bruce, RPh
Kansas City, MO
2016 Fuzion Impact 312
2017 3500HD Silverado LTZ

[14george]

Post a picture of the hot water tank

[ratowles]

Water heater pictures. This one does have a reset mechanism I don't think I have seen before. Two rubber coated reset switches. Could this be it's dual powered? There is also something attached to the water plug. Is this possibly an electrical heating element?

[ratowles]

Thanks again for all your help.

[ratowles]

As an aside, the only time I have seen an illuminated red switch previously was in my Class A pusher, the switch started the onboard generator. Could this lead to someone's solution for starting a generator?

[canesfan]

I can't tell from the picture, is there a little black switch behind where the end of the anode rod is laying? In the bottom left hand corner of the HTW, hidden behind everything, maybe with a small piece of tape over it?

[canesfan]

Illuminated red switches generally control 1. the water pump 2. the LP side of the HTW and 3. sometimes the electric side of the HTW. Where that switch is located I would guess it's one of them.

[canesfan]

The "something" attached to the water plug is the anode rod. It keeps your tank from disintegrating.

[chuckster57]

On some older water heaters, the switch for the electric element is on the back of the unit. My '97 Jayco had it. Water heater was under the sink and a PITA to reach.

[Thundershorts]

It is hard to tell from the picture, but I don't see a spot for the electric heating element. The one I had, the element had a black plastic cover over it in the middle of the tank, with the switch behind the gas valve. IMO this looks like it is only gas with direct spark ignition.

[JRTJH]

The switch for the electric heating element is visible in the first picture. It is directly behind the LP solenoid valve and the "anode rod end" is almost directly in front of the switch. If you look at the "circular gas tube" and put your finger through that circle, you'll be putting your finger on the electric heating element switch. And, if you enlarge the picture, you can see the word "ON" located on the bottom part of the actual switch.

The actual heating element is attached to the dark circular "thing" that is also located in the first picture. It is between the "circular gas tube" and the hole where the anode rod is screwed into the tank.

My "guess" would be that with the tank heating element switch turned off, even if that "not OEM illuminated switch inside" is activated, nothing will happen.

It's "for sure" that the switch inside is NOT factory installed. My guess would be that the previous owner "MIGHT HAVE" (who really knows without asking him) installed a remote water heater switch so he didn't have to go outside to turn off the electric element.

At any rate, the OP's water heater does have an electric element, it is located as described, and the switch is visible in the first picture. Whether it's been burned out by turning on that "extra switch" or not is anybody's guess. I'd start by filling the water heater, turn on the "outside switch" that's behind the gas solenoid, turn on the "inside switch" and see if the water gets got in an hour or so. If it does, then turn the inside switch off, run enough water to cool the tank's contents and wait an hour or so to see if it gets hot again. If it does, that switch isn't for the water heater. But, if the water stays cool, you've found your function. Another way to test it is to get behind the water heater with a voltmeter and have someone turn the inside switch off/on. If you get voltage to that point, you'll know where the wires are connected.

Bottom line, it's a gas (DSI) electric water heater. The switch is behind the solenoid.

ADDED: To answer another question, yes the anode rod is still serviceable. Just use a wire brush to knock off the excess "corrosion" wipe the rod down with some "bleach water", wrap the threads with Teflon tape and reinstall. Tighten enough so it doesn't leak, but don't overtighten so you can still get it out at the end of the season.

All of the comments about the "owner installed switch" controlling the water heater electric element is purely speculation. It may control just about anything ranging from a hidden electric outlet that the previous owner installed under the trailer floor, a "furnace fan switch" so he could filter the air without heat, a second refrigerator switch, fans behind the refrigerator to help cooling, an outside light, or any one of a thousand "what if's" .... But I'd guess it "could be" for the electric water heater element. At least I'd start there.

[zuley]

Not wanting to further confuse the issue but my first thought when looking at the picture was the control for an add on inverter mod by the previous owner.

[hankpage]

What JRTJH said plus .... the two spots marked reset .... most likely only one actually has a switch under it. If you press it gently you will feel a click if it is tripped. JM2¢, Hank

If you have been turning that switch on and off with the tank empty, the electric element has blown and resets will do nothing.

[Javi]

If I was a guessing man.... I have to put my money on water pump...

My reasoning is... back in '82 or '83 I installed a switch just like that one for an older couple who didn't want to have to walk over to the wall mounted pump switch every time they wanted to wash a glass or get a drink when dry camping...

But it could also be for the electric water heater since Suburban makes you walk outside to flip the switch... :dizzy:

[PARAPTOR]

Picture may help This is a suburban tank

[ratowles]

Thanks all for your help. Especially, those that suspected a connection to the water heater
John has nailed it with his information about the electrical aspects of the dual powered water heater. Thanks John for getting my head on straight. I will do future testing once the weather permits, but I am about 90% sure that is what this switch controls. Thanks again everyone.

[PARAPTOR]

if suburban

[ratowles]

Thanks for the link. This will come in handy.

[PARAPTOR]

If we are talking about the 110 VAC section of the HWT(see picture) I would think if you looked at the back of this mysterious switch you would see a romex wire for the 110VAC rather than a 12 VDC rip cable. Of course could be that switch closes a 12V relay applying 110 VAC to the tank but do not think so.

[ctbruce]

When you test it, be sure to let us know what you find out.
1. It will surely help someone else at some point in time.
2. We give out prizes to whoever guesses right.





3. Not really, but may have had you going for a second.

Chip Bruce, RPh
Kansas City, MO
2016 Fuzion Impact 312
2017 3500HD Silverado LTZ

[PARAPTOR]

Levels of complexity or should I say insanity

1. What in the world did the factory do here :confused:

THEN the harder One

2. What did the previous owner do here :eek:

Guess we know where this one stands, this could be one of the most interesting :facepalm: