Adding 12 volt plug/USB/voltage meter: am I on the right track?

[dirt33]

Hello. I am wanting to add this to our TT:

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/81KzhGcLYaL._SX522_.jpg

I am not electrical-savvy at all. I have read over several threads on here, and watched many videos of this mod being done. I realize that it is a pretty straight-forward job for most people. Nonetheless, before I do this job, I would like to post a few pictures here of the work that I will be doing, and have you all look at them to make sure I am not doing anything incorrect.

Photo 1 shows an open slot in the fuse panel, the next-to-last 15 amp slot towards the bottom is currently open. I would use 14 gauge wire to come off of that slot, to the positive terminals on each of the 3 items in the USB cluster.

http://i63.tinypic.com/3cw7k.jpg

Photo 2 shows a ground bar that is behind the electrical panel. There are a couple open slots in that bar. Would use 14 gauge wire to come off of that to all negative terminals on the cluster.

http://i68.tinypic.com/9uqa1t.jpg

Photo 3 shows the approximate path that the wiring would take through the cabinetry, under the fridge, and through the dinette, securing the wiring every few inches of course to something wooden.

http://i68.tinypic.com/n48pwy.jpg

Thank you to anyone willing to take a look, and let me know if I am forgetting anything, doing something wrong, etc. Would the 15 amp fuse already in place suffice, or should I change that to a lower amp fuse?

[canesfan]

Do you have a link to that? I like that. I have similar ones in the bedroom and living room but I'd like to put one in the garage.

[dirt33]

Do you have a link to that? I like that. I have similar ones in the bedroom and living room but I'd like to put one in the garage.

Amazon has a bunch of different options, as far as the number of accessory pods in each cluster, functions of the pods (usb, cigarette lighter, voltage meter, on/off swtich, etc), color of LED lights, etc.

https://www.amazon.com/Cllena-Function-Charger-Voltmeter-Digital/dp/B01CU5HI7U/ref=pd_sbs_236_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01CU5HI7U&pd_rd_r=6H590SQ911G4J5W97K27&pd_rd_w=vr9qZ&pd_rd_wg=T84ME&psc=1&refRID=6H590SQ911G4J5W97K27

[canesfan]

Found them, thank you. :)

[PARAPTOR]

Electrical connection shown is correct, you did not address connections on the unit you purchased. Remember the intent of that fuse is to protect the wire in your case #14 which 15 amp fuse is good. So you have 15 amps to feed basically two sources, those USB ports and the 12V DC female socket. May want to check max rating on that socket. The USB ports will probably be say 2+ amps for one and say 1.5 for the other so say total of about 3.5 amps, so that would leave you about 11.5 amps for that 12V socket, which I am sure that socket is rated for less that that?? That meter will be very minimum current draw and will measure the voltage at that point in the power distribution panel.

So this is how I would wire that device you purchased, I would terminate that #12 wire on the two posts on the back of the 12VDC socket then I would use smaller wire as jumpers to connect the 12 volts to the meter and the module with the USB ports.

Yes I am installing something similar in my rig for supplying 12V as well as somewhere to charge our phones

[PARAPTOR]

canesfan; These will add weight to your Raptor, But then again it may work to your advantage, ie say if DW needs/wants USB ports or additional 12VDC power, you can argue that you will need to update your truck. Just my :twocents:

[JRTJH]

The electrical connections as you described them are correct and pararaptor's advice about terminating the 14ga wire at the lighter socket and using 16 ga to "jumper" to the other terminals may make it simpler to "bend all the wire into position"...

One consideration, it seems that you're installing the device "low and on the floor" at the corner of the dinette ?? If so, where are you planning to run the USB charger wiring and position the phones, etc during charging? That might be a problem and lead to tripping on the wires if they are sitting on the table and someone walks by. Have you considered mounting it in the cabinet above your power distribution center? That way you could "store" the phones during charging and the wires would be out of the way. Just close the cabinet door and it's all "out of sight/out of mind"....

[canesfan]

Also, in case you haven't thought about it, it doesn't have to be mounted horizontally, all the pieces come apart and you can mount it vertically or all three separate without the face plate. Still trying to decide which one of the many configurations I like. I do like the single "waterproof" dual USB one for putting in the basement. I find myself charging my phone there a lot in the evenings during a fire.

PARAPTOR, I may need to leave a 12oz can at home in that case. But if I put it in the garage it will reduce pin weight. ;)

[PARAPTOR]

Just a comment on mounting, as stated, these are individual modules and as such can be installed in separate holes. I would check if where located that you have access to the back where the connections are. If you have access than you can get way with three holes and normal size jumpers, if not may want to consider cutting a slot rather than holes or making those jumpers long enough to work with as you can get it in and out

To the OP, there is a module that is a volt/current meter, ie when wired correctly you could measure the same voltage as well as say the current draw of the device connected to the 12VDC socket. these are very versatile

[dirt33]

PARAPTOR, thank you for the info regarding wiring. It would not have occurred to me to wire 14 gauge to the 12 volt socket, and then use 16-18 gauge off of that to the other two accessories. Good idea, thank you. I will have to check the max rating of the 12 volt socket once it arrives tomorrow.

canesfan, yes I figure that I will probably mount the entire unit vertically, and even thought about separating the parts to mount the voltage meter elsewhere, but then decided that that would be more wiring work than I want to do.

JRJTH, your point is valid, and I tend to agree that the mounting position of this unit is indeed "less than ideal". The main reason for installing the item is to provide 12 volt and USB outlets right there at the dinette, as my wife sits right there above where I will be mounting it and does her work (currently she has one 110 outlet available near there, and she is not happy at all about not having power available now that we are dry camping more this year). I actually would like to mount it above the dinette in the existing cabinet. However, to do so, I would have to get the wiring from the panel up and through the refrigerator wall. I had a lot of things apart last night contemplating what to do, and decided that going up through that wall would simply be more work than I want to do. Running the wiring close to the floor, through the bottom of the dinette, encounters no obstacles at all, other than the thin paneling of the dinette itself. My wife said she actually prefers to have cords plugged in near the floor and draped up over the table top, as opposed to plugging them in up high and having them hanging down. She is the only person who ever sits at the dinette, and I know based off of how she uses it/works that this will work out fine for her needs. (All I care about at all is having the voltage meter available for me to be able to see). Basically, I just need to mount the cluster in a way that it won't be bumped into when getting in/out of the dinette. The spot I had it shown in the photo was fairly hastily "drawn" on my part. I may move it around the corner so that it is on the "inside" portion of the dinette, as opposed to being on the "outer facing" side. The only issue with that is that, the further "inwards on the dinette" that I mount it, the harder it will be able to see/use when the dinette gets made into a bed, which is often enough that it would be a bit of a pain. I will get the wiring ran from the panel to inside of the dinette on Saturday morning, and then decide from there where I want to drill the holes for the cluster.

[dirt33]

I did the project this morning. I decided to mount the voltage meter separately from the others. I mounted the voltage meter below the electrical panel, where it can easily be seen. I spliced off of the wiring for the propane dectector that sits just below the voltage meter.

The cig lighter and USB outlets were mounted under the dinette table, using new 14 gauge wire run from the electrical panel.

Now, I realize quickly that the house battery is shot, as the voltmeter reads 13.7 when plugged into 30 amp power, and drops very quickly when not plugged in. It dropped to 10.2 in less than 10 minutes. I had a notion that the battery was going out during our last outing. So, now I need to do some reading about battery upgrading.

[PARAPTOR]

Nice Job, looks Good!!

Boy you do not fool around, OH Wait just noticed you are from Texas, you loose a point it's warm down there :nonono: Too Cold out here for me to go out.

Just one comment, that 12v power you tapped off the propane detector, In most units that power is not effected by the battery disconnect switch, ie meter will be powered constantly unless your battery cable is disconnected.

Guess DW now happy :D

[dirt33]

Boy you do not fool around, OH Wait just noticed you are from Texas, you loose a point it's warm down there :nonono: Too Cold out here for me to go out.

The weather has generally been pretty good here, and I certainly do take advantage to get outside and do roof cleaning, trailer washing/waxing, etc. Today, however, was rainy and cool. Had to have someone inside the house switch the shore power breaker on/off a few times while I was in the trailer working, as I didn't want to trudge in/out of the trailer many times with wet shoes. But, all in all, no complaints here. I am originally from several states north of here, so I will take Texas winters for sure. Things oughta be looking up where you are soon too, as Spring will be here pretty quick.

Thank you again for the help/advice regarding wiring. Stapling/securing the wiring as it snaked through the dinette and under the fridge was the only part of the job that was a drag.

For anyone else wanting to add this type of unit to your RV, give 'er a shot, it was certainly not difficult. I will be very glad to have the voltage meter viewable, rather than relying on the factory battery gauge (1 red dot, 2 red dots, that may or may not be accurate... etc). And the first time that the USB outlets get used, the $20 and time spent will be all worth it.

[MattE303]

Hello. I am wanting to add this to our TT:


Thanks for posting this (and also thanks to everyone who contributed). I wanted to add a very similar unit to my toy hauler and this thread was very helpful, confirming my questions about how to wire it into the fuse panel. I got the 4 hole Cllena panel that has a switch.

Did the job yesterday, turned out nice and works great! I put it right above the main control panel that has the slide controls, tank level indicators, etc.