Leaking Water Heater

[sourdough]

Well, I was going out to work on my jerking slides and saw water dripping from the front corner of the trailer.....where it shouldn't be. Investigated and found my water heater is apparently leaking. This a 2014 trailer so it seems awfully soon for it to quit, but, my question is this; it doesn't leak when it's just sitting there with water pressure on it that I can see. When the hot water is turned on it then begins to leak. My wife took a shower this morning and it leaked enough to run through the floor, soak the carpet in the pass through then out the floor. The no leak unless the water is running doesn't compute to me - it seems it would leak if there was pressure on it even without water movement. Any thoughts to hopefully turn on a light bulb here??

[Javi]

Most likely not the heater itself... look at the lines behind it

[slow]

I agree with Javi. Check the fittings at the water heater.

I had the same issue, a leak only when the H2O tank was on and water being used. I found a loose fitting in the most difficult location to tighten.

[PARAPTOR]

Interesting, no leaks under pressure, only notice water when used, could it be from a drain rather than a source. But this would be independent of hot or cold water source. Just a thought.

[sourdough]

No connection leaks. The drain and pressure valve have no leaks. Actually, it appears that there is no leak if nothing is running. Turn on the hot water and a film of water starts building under the styrofoam covering the tank and it then accumulates more and more until it runs down the wall and into the pass thru. Turn off the water faucet, dry the water and NOTHING happens...no water build up...it actually dries out. Turn on the water and it starts leaking again coming from under the foam. Makes no sense to me.

A thought; would you think that turning on the water might make a connection leak more than just having the water pressure on it? I believe I checked all scenarios but I could do it again.

[sourdough]

Just went and checked again. There are no water leaks in any of the plumbing. With the hot water on water starts appearing under the foam surrounding the tank. Dry it up, turn off the water and it doesn't re-appear. I'm assuming something in the tank although I don't understand how it's happening.

[PARAPTOR]

In my previous post did not realize you had the leak source identified to the HW tank area, if not the tank itself. Just wondering what would happen if you shut off the heat source to the HW tank and basically run cold water through the tank system, still see a leak ??

[sourdough]

When I did the last test the heating element had been off for about 6 hours but the water (thru the piping) felt hot. My wife said it was luke warm. I'll try it again in the AM with cold (about to go to bed and like a hot shower:):)

[bobbecky]

I had to replace our HW heater this past summer due to a leak. Your unit, even more so than ours, shouldn't be leaking as new as it is. I just bit the bullet and replaced it. Purchased from Dyers. The leak was from a weld where they weld the burner tube to the tank itself. Did the replacement myself, even though it might have been nice having a little help when installing the new one into the hole. Other than that, it wasn't too bad to do.

http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_223299_0_cdeaea58027b3c21b9d03ea62f542ee9.jpg

[hankpage]

I would take a close look at the check-valve on the cold inlet of the tank. A crack at the point where the valve seats could only leak when the valve opens. (water flow into heater.) JM2¢, Hank
http://www.keystoneforums.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=251&pictureid=1176

[chuckster57]

Aren't check valves on the hot out?

I would wrap a dry towel around the hot out, turn on the tap and check the towel. If dry do it again at the cold in. That you can rule out the water connections.

[sourdough]

Thanks all. I will recheck all the piping and connections tomorrow before I order a new water heater. I'm pretty good at analyzing things but this one is a bit weird. Unfortunately I don't know enough about the internal construction of one of these heaters to know what might fail, nor do I know how it is getting out of the Styrofoam enclosure. It does seem that it is coming from the tank in some way. BTW - I had a towel sitting beside the heater where the water comes out all afternoon and it was dry as a bone. Wife went in to wash a few dishes and the towel was soaking wet:facepalm::banghead:

[bobbecky]

Initially, our tank leaked intermittently, but got to leaking more and more, until I changed the water heater. To add to the mess, we also developed a leak in the grey water tank, that was leaking on the same side of the trailer. I repaired the tank leak the following month.

[hankpage]

Aren't check valves on the hot out?

I would wrap a dry towel around the hot out, turn on the tap and check the towel. If dry do it again at the cold in. That you can rule out the water connections.

The check valve SHOULD be on the inlet so the hot water does not migrate back into the cold and should be installed by the heater manufacturer. With a small leak the paper towel method is the only one I have found to work.

[sourdough]

I appreciate all the help folks. I have inspected, tightened pulled/pushed everything around the tank and there are no leaks. However, the area under the foam enclosure continues to have water seep out from under it. I can only assume it is coming from between the tank and the foam then leaking out from between the two somewhere at the back of the cutout for the black junction box. Very disheartening; the heater looks brand new inside and out and it pains me to have to replace it but........ I had a small leak on the water inlet line under the bathroom sink due to a loose connection when we first arrived here so thought this might be as simple but guess not.

[bobbecky]

The check valve on the hot water outlet, if one is installed, is used with a water heater bypass valve to prevent water and antifreeze from entering the tank when winterizing the water system. The check valve is installed by the RV builder and does not come with the water heater.

[chuckster57]

The check valve on the hot water outlet, if one is installed, is used with a water heater bypass valve to prevent water and antifreeze from entering the tank when winterizing the water system. The check valve is installed by the RV builder and does not come with the water heater.

That's what I see pretty much every time, across a lot of different brands.

[sourdough]

The hot outlet just has a fitting screwed into the tank with the water fitting screwed onto it. It doesn't leak. The cold water inlet has what appears to be some sort of device welded into the tank that extends out about 2 " with the water inlet hose screwed onto that. There are no leaks in those fittings....as much as I wish there was.

[zuley]

I have followed this post closely curious as to the outcome. Does not sound as though it has resolved itself. Thinking as I have read how I would perhaps correct the issue with my limited knowledge. Have you pressure tested the system yet? Drain the system as if you were winterizing. With the system presurized soap test all joints with the taps closed and again with the taps open. From what I read it appears the issue only happens with the taps in the open position.

[Javi]

Since it only leaks when the hot water tap is open, I just can't see it being the tank itself..

[flybouy]

FWIW the hot water heater in our house did what sounds similar. I say similar because I found water on the floor, turned off the gas and was was preparing to drain the tank. After removing the water no leak. Turned the gas on, ignited the heater and a few minutes later water on the floor. The tank had a hairline crack that opened up when the metal expanded from heat. With a small 5 or 6 gal heater often it will only call for heat when the tap is opened. . Hope this helps.

[shov]

So this may or may not be of any help to you. But I had a Jayco several years ago and at the time the unit was about 2 years old and I owned since it was new. My HW tank was leaking. Like you I checked all of the lines and fitting and it was seeping from around the styrofoam. Pull your HW tank out. Remove it from the styrofoam. If there is a white chalky substance the you will see where it is coming from. My 2 year old tank had a pin hole in it. As the water heater was in it builds pressure and it would leak. It's worth a look at... FWIW. Good luck


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[sourdough]

Thanks everyone. I think it may be the hairline crack, or pinhole, that is opening when heated. I, like Javi, just couldn't believe the tank could be at fault but I've done extensive testing and find no other leak. What I have found is this; the tank appears to be leaking all the time but only a small amount when not showering. I've placed dry towels along the side where it seeps out and it only gets wet next to the cutout in the foam under the water tank - not anywhere close to all the water connections. When we shower we always turn on both the electric and propane to the water heater and it leaks more. This leads me to the assumption that some sort of crack is opening when under heat as flybouy mentioned. It sounds crazy to me but now I'm at the point that the only way to see for sure is to pull the tank I guess. If I do so I want a new one on hand so I don't do this twice. Looks like I can't get one until the first of next week so will keep messing with it in the hopes some revelation will happen and I find the problem. Again, I really appreciate everyone's input.

[JRTJH]

If you do replace the water heater (and it sounds like that's where you're thinking of heading), remember that you've got two options. Replace the entire system or replace the tank. It will be much easier to replace the entire system (about $450) and much less expensive to replace the tank only (about $200). Depending on the condition of your other components, your wallet and your "determination not to spend more than necessary" (frugality), you might want to explore options beyond a complete water heater replacement.....

Frustrating? Heck yes. Last fall while winterizing, I noticed a couple of small black flecks coming out of the water heater. My guess is (really I know but don't want to admit it) that the porcelain tank lining is cracked. So, it looks like I'll be facing a tank leak once corrosion eats through the tank wall.

My last several RV's never had a water heater issue, I guess they just aren't making them like they used to.... :nonono:

[PARAPTOR]

Good to hear you found the problem but disappointing to hear you have to replace the tank. Just curious, if you are replacing the entire system, have you looked into or considered replacement with the new on demand tanks. Think I read they are direct replacements and think in was a Suburban. Then again it could have been another senior moment :banghead: I remember, here I go again, a couple years back we had a thread on the on demand water heaters, interesting posts :eek: In general when I replace a component I check around to see if there is an upgrade that would benefit me.

I have to agree with you still really can not get a handle why , guess may find out when the unit is removed :facepalm: Good Luck

[sourdough]

Yes, at the moment it appears I will replace the entire unit. Sitting here in the RV park I don't want to get into a lot of retrofitting - as close to plug and play as I can get and I will be happy.

I don't think we will go with an on demand heater. They have some drawbacks including the price. The house we've been renovating in Tallahassee for my granddaughter has one for the entire house and I've not been impressed. We've never had an issue with running out of hot water in the RV so in my mind "if it ain't broke don't fix it". It is an appealing idea but I just don't think it would be a benefit for us and the way we operate.

I'm still watching the heater and it still very much appears the water is coming from somewhere between the tank and the styrofoam. I'm hoping I can see the problem when removed because it sure looks new to me:banghead:

Thanks again to all for the help and thoughts.

Danny

[PARAPTOR]

Not to deviate too much from the original post, in the stick and brick home I updated from the conventional tank water heater to a ON Demand unit and love it. Always interested me how one uses the conventional HW system, some quantity of water is heated in a tank using some form of energy (2 resources). Then when we go to use it excluding say dishwashers, we use another amount of cold water(resource) to cool it off to the desired temp say 77 degrees, now using 3 resources 2 water and a heating source :banghead:

With the on Demand you set the desired temp on the remote again say 77 degrees, and open a single HW spigot (2 resources; 1 water and 1 heating source). Basically not heating water then cooling it later to use it :facepalm: Yes there is a minimum flow to trigger the unit on. See what happens when you retire, too much time to think :nonono:

I agree choose best method to GET IT DONE :lol: Have to say this is a weird one would also drive me crazy

[shov]

Good luck and let us k ow what you find when you pull it


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[sourdough]

Yeah, I think the on demand has a few parameters that I don't want to mess with in the RV. I don't think we would gain anything (for us) by trying that upgrade. And you're right; after 11 years of retirement I've found I do have the time to think too much.....and now, I've thought so much my brain is so full I can't remember much of anything...but, back to what we were talking about....:confused: :) I will post what I find and the results of all this.

[sourdough]

Finally got the new water heater in yesterday and replaced it today. As mentioned before it was just a small leak that appeared to increase when hot water was run. Took the old heater out and it looks like (and felt like - water residue) that the leak was coming from a weld on one of the bungs for the water inlets. It looked like a hot "something" had been laid on top of the weld and literally melted a part of it literally melting the weld that was holding it together....and making it water tight. Kind of crazy. It's been installed and working for several hours with no leaks so hoping all I OK.

I've always loved Dometic/Atwood but looking at the water heater with all the stuff removed makes me wonder...........